From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

TIA
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

depends on ambient temperature

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

a few minutes is all

TIA

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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

No.

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

never tried. I would think depends on temp, but outside sets first.
Google says new glue melts surface of old so just make sure its set
solid. Trial and error?

TIA

Dave
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

Depends on the type of glue stick, and also the thickness of the glue. "normal" ones have a little bit of flexibility, so for example if you
glued a couple of sheets of card to each other, you could bend the glue
line without it snapping.

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

What is it that you want to do?

Setting time will depend on a number of factors - but mainly the ability
of the things you are gluing to absorb heat and lower the temperature.
Put on a thick heavy bead and it will take longer to cool and hence "set".

Some tips for new users:

Wear gloves - if you get any on the skin, it hurts, and you can't wipe
it off! (trying makes it worse - DAMHIK) - have some water on hand.

If you need to unstick something stuck with hotmelt, then give it a
quick spray of IPA solvent - that breaks the bond between the glue and
the thing it is stuck to.

One something is stuck in place, you can build up additional glue to encapsulate or strengthen the bond and add support. (this might pertain
to your question more - you can just build up in one go, but you end up
with glue that might want to flow of sag - lettings it cool between applications can help. (many glues go transparent when in their liquid
state and then cloud over as they set)

If you want a temporary fix between things (say for work holding), apply masking tape to both surfaces, then glue them together on the tape. You
can then prize them apart more easily later. (that trick works will with
CA glue and accelerator as well)
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Wed, 12 Aug 2026 14:38:46 +0100
John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

I never needed one, than after I bought one for a particular job, I've
used it pretty much every week for something.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

The type I have used doesn't go really hard e.g. like epoxy. I've used
it to make strain reliefs on wires, tapering it down further away from
the end. You want a strain relief to be somewhat flexible, the idea
being that there's no hard edge for the cable to flex across.

Depends on the type of glue stick, and also the thickness of the
glue. "normal" ones have a little bit of flexibility, so for example
if you glued a couple of sheets of card to each other, you could bend
the glue line without it snapping.

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of
a single welt of glue?

Not very long, less than a minute usually. There's nothing critical
about it, you can melt and remelt the glue as often as needed to get
the shape you need. I've sometimes used a hot air tool (for soldering,
not paint stripping) to shape the final result. A sort of quick and
dirty 3D printer.

What is it that you want to do?

Setting time will depend on a number of factors - but mainly the
ability of the things you are gluing to absorb heat and lower the temperature. Put on a thick heavy bead and it will take longer to
cool and hence "set".

--
Joe

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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 12/08/2026 14:38, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

Depends on the type of glue stick, and also the thickness of the glue. "normal" ones have a little bit of flexibility, so for example if you
glued a couple of sheets of card to each other, you could bend the glue
line without it snapping.

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

What is it that you want to do?

Setting time will depend on a number of factors - but mainly the ability
of the things you are gluing to absorb heat and lower the temperature.
Put on a thick heavy bead and it will take longer to cool and hence "set".

Some tips for new users:

Wear gloves - if you get any on the skin, it hurts, and you can't wipe
it off! (trying makes it worse - DAMHIK) - have some water on hand.

If you need to unstick something stuck with hotmelt, then give it a
quick spray of IPA solvent - that breaks the bond between the glue and
the thing it is stuck to.

One something is stuck in place, you can build up additional glue to encapsulate or strengthen the bond and add support. (this might pertain
to your question more - you can just build up in one go, but you end up
with glue that might want to flow of sag - lettings it cool between applications can help. (many glues go transparent when in their liquid
state and then cloud over as they set)

If you want a temporary fix between things (say for work holding), apply masking tape to both surfaces, then glue them together on the tape. You
can then prize them apart more easily later. (that trick works will with
CA glue and accelerator as well)

Thank you, all.

My immediate aim is to repair a cylinder-style VAX carpet washer and a
Scott rotary lawn fertiliser spreader. Both are made from well-aged
plastic (ABS?). Both have crazed quite extensively.

I've assumed that gluing the parts directly to each other would just
result in further crumbling a molecule either side of the glue, so I was planning to build a broad welt along the surface(s) of the (many)
breaks. A sort of jig-saw puzzle.

Incidentally, I have purchased a Hyundai cylinder vacuum/washer, so I've
got a Plan B. It's manual is weird, though. It is written in good
English but just seems to be written by someone who has never seen the product. So the "what's in the box" ignores some of the items actually
in the box - as do the setting up and how-to-use sections of the manual.

Weird.
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Wed, 12 Aug 2026 08:30:29 +0100, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

Latching on to this useful thread.

Can you loosen the hot glue with, for example, a hot air gun?
I am thinking of sticking a long run of plastic flooring to a wall
(tanking in a wet room) which has come unstuck.
I anticipate getting some of it stuck and perhaps a few blobs of glue not quite stuck.
It would be good to be able to reflow the joint where it hasn't taken.

Cheers



Dave R
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Wed, 12 Aug 2026 08:30:29 +0100, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

Latching on to this useful thread.

Can you loosen the hot glue with, for example, a hot air gun?

Yes, I've used a soldering hot air station to do that.

I think the melting temp is fairly low, so a regular mains hot air gun would probably work. A hairdryer probably wouldn't.

I am thinking of sticking a long run of plastic flooring to a wall
(tanking in a wet room) which has come unstuck.
I anticipate getting some of it stuck and perhaps a few blobs of glue not quite stuck.
It would be good to be able to reflow the joint where it hasn't taken.

In that case I might be concerned about the hot air damaging the plastic flooring. eg if it's some kind of laminate, it might not take a lot of heat
to damage the top layers. Maybe if you can carefully direct the hot air behind? But don't forget that brick / plaster / etc is a decent heatsink.

Theo
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Wed, 12 Aug 2026 14:38:46 +0100, John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

Some tips for new users:

Some more:

Hot melt glue will not stick to cold metal well. It'll peel off more or less easily.

It will stick to dirt on metal, so: apply glue on the face of pliers, or a file,
peel it off, and it will remove the (top layer) of dirt in the fine grooves, and
finish the job a wire brush starts. It'll also pick up iron filings that get on magnetized tools.

A lighter and a glue stick make a good "emergency repair glue gun".

Compressed air and a glue gun can be used to make fake spider webs, instructions
on youtube. (okay, maybe not your everyday use case)


Thomas Prufer

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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

TIA

Received the glue gun this afternoon - but not the 30 glue sticks.

O Iesu Mawr.
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 13/08/2026 20:15, Peter Able wrote:

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

TIA

Received the glue gun this afternoon - but not the 30 glue sticks.

O Iesu Mawr.

AND the "20W" Gun is a 5W ( @241V ) one. Crooked old eBay!
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 13/08/2026 17:49, Thomas Prufer wrote:

On Wed, 12 Aug 2026 14:38:46 +0100, John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

Some tips for new users:

Some more:

Hot melt glue will not stick to cold metal well. It'll peel off more or less easily.

It will stick to dirt on metal, so: apply glue on the face of pliers, or a file,
peel it off, and it will remove the (top layer) of dirt in the fine grooves, and
finish the job a wire brush starts. It'll also pick up iron filings that get on
magnetized tools.

A lighter and a glue stick make a good "emergency repair glue gun".

Compressed air and a glue gun can be used to make fake spider webs, instructions
on youtube. (okay, maybe not your everyday use case)

Thomas Prufer

Some more tips.
For coloured hot-melt, melt clear stick onto some silicone/ptfe sheet
and mix in flakes of kids crayons to required colour match, cool, roll
up and reintroduce into the gun.
Surprising amount of thermal hysterisis? , for taking molding from heat susceptible material. Melt a blob, and when cooled to ust above room temperature , the core still has a lot of plasticity and the blob can be pushed into the receiving material, can be very complex 3D shape.
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 14/08/2026 15:43, Marland wrote:

Peter Able <stuck@home.com> wrote:

On 12/08/2026 14:38, John Rumm wrote:

On 12/08/2026 08:30, Peter Able wrote:

I've just ordered my first Hot Glue Gun.

1. Is there any give after the glue sets?

Depends on the type of glue stick, and also the thickness of the glue.
"normal" ones have a little bit of flexibility, so for example if you
glued a couple of sheets of card to each other, you could bend the glue
line without it snapping.

2. How much time between two applications for the best build up of a
single welt of glue?

What is it that you want to do?

Setting time will depend on a number of factors - but mainly the ability >>> of the things you are gluing to absorb heat and lower the temperature.
Put on a thick heavy bead and it will take longer to cool and hence "set". >>>
Some tips for new users:

Wear gloves - if you get any on the skin, it hurts, and you can't wipe
it off! (trying makes it worse - DAMHIK) - have some water on hand.

If you need to unstick something stuck with hotmelt, then give it a
quick spray of IPA solvent - that breaks the bond between the glue and
the thing it is stuck to.

One something is stuck in place, you can build up additional glue to
encapsulate or strengthen the bond and add support. (this might pertain
to your question more - you can just build up in one go, but you end up
with glue that might want to flow of sag - lettings it cool between
applications can help. (many glues go transparent when in their liquid
state and then cloud over as they set)

If you want a temporary fix between things (say for work holding), apply >>> masking tape to both surfaces, then glue them together on the tape. You
can then prize them apart more easily later. (that trick works will with >>> CA glue and accelerator as well)

Thank you, all.

My immediate aim is to repair a cylinder-style VAX carpet washer and a
Scott rotary lawn fertiliser spreader. Both are made from well-aged
plastic (ABS?). Both have crazed quite extensively.

I've assumed that gluing the parts directly to each other would just
result in further crumbling a molecule either side of the glue, so I was
planning to build a broad welt along the surface(s) of the (many)
breaks. A sort of jig-saw puzzle.

Incidentally, I have purchased a Hyundai cylinder vacuum/washer, so I've
got a Plan B. It's manual is weird, though. It is written in good
English but just seems to be written by someone who has never seen the
product. So the "what's in the box" ignores some of the items actually
in the box - as do the setting up and how-to-use sections of the manual.

Weird.

Some Hyundai equipment is sourced not just from a Chinese factory but is
also a generic item produced there and sold under different brand names ,
the manual may have started life with the original before Hyundai had it produced in their name.

GH

Oh, sure, but, whatever, is is quite unexpected to get manuals in very
good English, rather then in Chinglish.

One unaccounted for items is a 12v alkaline battery. No battery
referred to - nothing that would need a battery described!

Being a very shiny silver drum with a large smiley on its top, I'm
probably going to name it Count Binface.

https://hyundaipowerequipment.co.uk/products/hyundai-1200w-25l-2-in-1-upholstery-carpet-cleaner-and-wet-dry-vacuum-hycw1200e
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Peter Able <stuck@home.com> wrote:

Oh, sure, but, whatever, is is quite unexpected to get manuals in very
good English, rather then in Chinglish.

One unaccounted for items is a 12v alkaline battery. No battery
referred to - nothing that would need a battery described!

"ChatGPT, please write me a manual for a vacuum cleaner"

Out come 10,000 words of grammatically perfect bollocks.

Being a very shiny silver drum with a large smiley on its top, I'm
probably going to name it Count Binface.

https://hyundaipowerequipment.co.uk/products/hyundai-1200w-25l-2-in-1-upholstery-carpet-cleaner-and-wet-dry-vacuum-hycw1200e

That looks likely to be rebranded Chinesium. Although typically the
Chinesium they select is generally alright.

(I have an air compressor sold by SGS that's identical to the Hyundai but
for the paint job, also sold by various no-brands. SGS happened to be
cheaper at the time)

Theo
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