Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has
some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively built
in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry?Hot moist air
On 25/06/2026 in message <xn0prfxhg8eigxw00b@news.individual.net> Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Many thanks for all the replies :-)
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry?
Can I stick it up the chimney?
On 25/06/2026 in message <xn0prfxhg8eigxw00b@news.individual.net> Jeff
Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Many thanks for all the replies :-)
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry? Can I stick it up the chimney?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care.-a The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
On 25/06/2026 in message <xn0prfxhg8eigxw00b@news.individual.net>
Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner
that would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 >>degrees?
Many thanks for all the replies :-)
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry? Can I stick it up
the chimney?
On 25 Jun 2026 09:50:13 GMT, "Jeff Gaines" <jgnewsid@outlook.com>
wrote:
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air
conditioners but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even
so it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me,
it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just
indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner
that would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25
degrees?
Well, late this evening the temp outside (in East Anglia) had
dropped to about 18C, and by sunrise them Wx stn suggested it was
about 16C.
However I purchased a portable a/c unit (Luxair KYR-35 -u350) and it
is keeping my office (about 10' sqr) down to 22C not silent by a long
chalk but ... it won't keep the living room down that cool, but does
make it much more comfortable. Not sure i could sleep with it on but
maybe. Not tried due to not being able to easily vent it out the
window (location of sockets and style of window - some DIY needed.
Only down side other than noise level is it pulls about 1.4kW - but
that is offset by the fact it is very sunny.
HTH
Avpx
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
Jeff Gaines <jgnewsid@outlook.com> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 in message <xn0prfxhg8eigxw00b@news.individual.net> Jeff >>Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Many thanks for all the replies :-)
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry?
Air containing the 'heat' you are trying to get rid of. You need to vent >this outside otherwise the unit is just a noisy fan heater.
Can I stick it up the chimney?
Can you seal a hose up to the chimney so air won't leak out? The air is at >moderate pressure so it will escape through any gaps.
Is the chimney sealed so that the hot air doesn't leak elsewhere, eg into
an
upstairs room? Might it heat up the bricks so the wall transfers heat into >the room?
Can you get a hose up to the chimney from the portable a/c unit without
being too long? You will lose some efficiency as heat is conducted from
the
inside to the outside of the pipe, warming the room up again - eventually
you loose so much heat that the a/c unit can't keep up. An insulated hose >helps here (the hose on my unit was 150mm).
If the chimney is properly lined for a fire then it might be a good option. >Also if your room has outside vents for fresh air then you could duct
them to the inlet of your unit to avoid using some of your precious cooled >room air to pump heat up the chimney.
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 01:56:19 +1000, Simon Simple
<nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care.-a The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
The difference is how the thing gets its rotational energy
Easy with an electric motor, much harder with a
petrol or diesel car to avoid leaking refrigerant
On 25/06/2026 18:03, Rod Speed wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 01:56:19 +1000, Simon Simple
<nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:The difference is how the thing gets its rotational energy
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
Easy with an electric motor, much harder with a
petrol or diesel car to avoid leaking refrigerant
Surely there are lots of differences.
You fridge or sits in the same place all the time. It usually doesn't
rain or snow in the kitchen. I guess the temperature doesn't fall below freezing.
Contrast that with the car, usually the compressor is attached to the engine, but the heat exchangers are attached to the car body. The pipes that run between are subjected to constant flexing as the engine moves
and you drive over the potholes. The body itself flexes. If the car is
kept outside its subjected to a wide range of temperatures....
.. surprising they last as long as they do...
On 11:01 25 Jun 2026, The Nomad said:
On 25 Jun 2026 09:50:13 GMT, "Jeff Gaines" <jgnewsid@outlook.com>
wrote:
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air
conditioners but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even
so it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me,
it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just
indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner
that would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25
degrees?
Well, late this evening the temp outside (in East Anglia) had
dropped to about 18C, and by sunrise them Wx stn suggested it was
about 16C.
However I purchased a portable a/c unit (Luxair KYR-35 -u350) and it
is keeping my office (about 10' sqr) down to 22C not silent by a long
chalk but ... it won't keep the living room down that cool, but does
make it much more comfortable. Not sure i could sleep with it on but
maybe. Not tried due to not being able to easily vent it out the
window (location of sockets and style of window - some DIY needed.
Only down side other than noise level is it pulls about 1.4kW - but
that is offset by the fact it is very sunny.
HTH
Avpx
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying existing refrigeration should be removed and then a measured amount put
back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a newish vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but there
is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old car needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Seemed to be struggling yesterday so spent 10 minutes this morning topping up, now so cool the missis wanted to go for a drive somewhere. I anticipate the next top. up will be around February 2027
but if its a little earlier say December for efficient winter demisting I wonrCOt mind . Now if I had to do it every couple of months it would need a garage investigating. Still on my first cylinder of gas and when it finally empties you get a something back for the empty cylinder if you by another
and kept it in good condition.
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's >>> a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
It is quieter than stand fans for comparable airflow, and it can push a lot more on higher settings. The body is on a gimbal, and I could move it so that all the blades were the same distance from the ceiling which removed some minor wobble. It's a DC fan with 6 speeds. There's also an LED lamp which is bright enough as a central room light at adjustable brightness and colour temperature.
It's a bit of a PITA to install: the hieroglyphics fail to mention that it comes part assembled and you need to *disassemble* some of those parts in order to run cables through it. I also had to cut away some of the plasterboard to run the former ceiling rose cables behind the control box which is pushed up against the ceiling with little space to spare. I used the supplied screws thinking for something this important they wouldn't be made of Chinese cheese, but they still were (all heads stripped and one snapped).
There's a bit of blade tip whine when you are standing near the tips, but
you don't hear it when sitting down. That's probably because noise is reflecting off the 8' ceiling: the fan is designed for that, but we don't have the luxury of high ceilings like hot countries do (where everyone has ceiling fans).
When buying, look for ceiling fans with a cfm or m3/hr figure. Anything
that doesn't give it (hello Argos) is just a fancy lampshade.
Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk> wrote:
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a
fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying
existing refrigeration should be removed and then a measured amount put
back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a newish
vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but there >> is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old car >> needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Seemed to be struggling yesterday so spent 10 minutes this morning topping >> up, now so cool the missis wanted to go for a drive somewhere. I anticipate >> the next top. up will be around February 2027
but if its a little earlier say December for efficient winter demisting I
wonrCOt mind . Now if I had to do it every couple of months it would need a >> garage investigating. Still on my first cylinder of gas and when it finally >> empties you get a something back for the empty cylinder if you by another
and kept it in good condition.
It's now -u80 for a cylinder of R134a from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/air-con/ac-pro-auto-air-conditioning-recharge---gas-r134a-264627.html
You get -u10 back for the cylinder. My car was empty and needed the
whole thing - not all the gas comes out.
It would have been cheaper to get a place to do it, but nobody nearby had a machine for hybrids (the regular oil kills them so must avoid cross contamination).
Beware cheap cans of R134a 'replacement': they're propane, which is cheap
but very flammable...
Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk> wrote:
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a
fitting to DIY it.
It's now -u80 for a cylinder of R134a from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/air-con/ac-pro-auto-air-conditioning-recharge---gas-r134a-264627.html
You get -u10 back for the cylinder. My car was empty and needed the
whole thing - not all the gas comes out.
Simon Simple <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:Fark, my 20 year old Hyundia Getz has never needed topping
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The>> same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying existing refrigeration should be removed and then a measured amount put
back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a newish vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but > there is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old > car
needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Seemed to be struggling yesterday so spent 10 minutes this morning > topping up, now so cool the missis wanted to go for a drive somewhere. I > anticipate--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
the next top. up will be around February 2027
but if its a little earlier say December for efficient winter demisting I wonrCOt mind . Now if I had to do it every couple of months it would need a garage investigating. Still on my first cylinder of gas and when it > finally
empties you get a something back for the empty cylinder if you by another
and kept it in good condition.
GH
On 25/06/2026 21:04, Theo wrote:
Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk> wrote:
Beware cheap cans of R134a 'replacement': they're propane, which is cheap
but very flammable...
Why would worry about an inflammable gas in a petrol car?! Anyway,
propane (as R290) is used in many home air conditioners these days (it's used in my Honeywell). Also, if his car is 13 years old, it is likely to
use R-1234yf rather than R134A.
On 25/06/2026 21:04, Theo wrote:
Beware cheap cans of R134a 'replacement': they're propane, which is cheap but very flammable...
Why would worry about an inflammable gas in a petrol car?! Anyway,
propane (as R290) is used in many home air conditioners these days (it's used in my Honeywell). Also, if his car is 13 years old, it is likely to
use R-1234yf rather than R134A.
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 21:04, Theo wrote:
Beware cheap cans of R134a 'replacement': they're propane, which is cheap >>> but very flammable...
Why would worry about an inflammable gas in a petrol car?! Anyway,
propane (as R290) is used in many home air conditioners these days (it's
used in my Honeywell). Also, if his car is 13 years old, it is likely to
use R-1234yf rather than R134A.
Because propane is a gas at ambient pressure. If you have a gas leak, which you presumably do somewhere otherwise you wouldn't be regassing, that's propane leaking next to a hot engine - or a flamethrower, if something goes wrong such as having an accident.
Your home fridge or aircon tries rather hard not to have leaks, and harder not to have a source of ignition nearby. They tend not to get into crashes.
R1234yf is more expensive than R134a - -u100 at Halfords (minus -u10 deposit for the cylinder).
It's telling that no cars are fitted with propane (R290) as refrigerant -
bet the manufacturers could save a bob or two that way
I anticipate
the next top. up will be around February 2027
When buying, look for ceiling fans with a cfm or m3/hr figure. Anything
that doesn't give it (hello Argos) is just a fancy lampshade.
Theo
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
Kempshott wrote:Hence the elephants trunk, they're all like that, where you you expect
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it is
just returned to the room it was extracted from.
On 25/06/2026 20:45, Marland wrote:
I anticipate
the next top. up will be around February 2027
Then you have a leak.
A fully sealed A/C system will go on indefinietly
Indy Jess John wrote:
Kempshott wrote:Hence the elephants trunk, they're all like that, where you you expect
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the
Screwfix one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in
a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which
show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it
is just returned to the room it was extracted from.
the heat to go?
Indy Jess John wrote:
Kempshott wrote:Hence the elephants trunk, they're all like that, where you you expect
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the
Screwfix one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in
a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which
show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it
is just returned to the room it was extracted from.
the heat to go?
Indy Jess John wrote:
Kempshott wrote:
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the
Screwfix one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in
a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews
show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere itHence the elephants trunk, they're all like that, where you you expect
is just returned to the room it was extracted from.
the heat to go?
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor fans.......
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the extractor
fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then vented elsewhere
via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the security risk of
open windows with a python hanging out of said window?
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning
module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting as follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit
Cooled air return to bedroom ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit
Fresh air in from outside to unit
On 25/06/2026 12:05, Kempshott wrote:
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it is
just returned to the room it was extracted from. In other words, it is
just a fan, not a cooling device. DONT BUY IT. IT IS A SCAM. And if
you do buy it, there is no way of getting your money back from the seller.
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I >bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am >still happy with.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather. It is true that when first >switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel >surprisingly cool to sit under after that. Blowing upwards is designed
for winter use. The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the >cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would
be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room >occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest speed.
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb, >because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones >rather than a dark room. Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced
by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs
to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon,
and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos. Why
do the really useful products go obsolete?
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
Are you sure you weren't watching an advert before the video? YT is
full of 'miracle personal air conditioner via this one trick they don't want >you to know' scammy ads - at best it's just an overpriced Temu swamp cooler.
Don't Fall for This Summer Cooling Scam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KvGHRSVTUk
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 05:45:04 +1000, Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk> wrote:
Simon Simple <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a
fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying
existing refrigeration should be removed and then a measured amount put
back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a newish
vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but
there
is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old
car
needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Fark, my 20 year old Hyundia Getz has never needed topping
up and the aircon is just as good as it always was and I use it
every day in the summer here
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Rod Speed <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 05:45:04 +1000, Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk>
wrote:
Simon Simple <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care. The
same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to
have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
You can get cylinders of the appropriate refrigerant and a gauge with a >>> fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying
existing refrigeration should be removed and then a measured amount put >>> back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a newish >>> vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but
there
is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old
car
needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Fark, my 20 year old Hyundia Getz has never needed topping
up and the aircon is just as good as it always was and I use it
every day in the summer here
What are the Roads like where you live?
UK ones in the countryside like where I live are fast becoming third world standard as Potholes and Ruts leave a surface more akin to a farm track. Vehicles get jarred so much IrCOm surprised more components donrCOt get damaged
or dislodged by the shaking .
IF you can prove a tyre / Wheel ,suspension component was damaged you may
get some compensation but I would think trying to get the authorities to acknowledge that your aircon piping has developed a leak because of a
Pothole induced jolt might be difficult.
GH
Indy Jess John <bathwatchdog@omitthisgooglemail.com> wrote:You are right. I stupidly thought that what appeared on my screen was
On 25/06/2026 12:05, Kempshott wrote:Are you sure you weren't watching an advert before the video? YT is
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which show
that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it is
just returned to the room it was extracted from. In other words, it is
just a fan, not a cooling device. DONT BUY IT. IT IS A SCAM. And if
you do buy it, there is no way of getting your money back from the seller. >>
full of 'miracle personal air conditioner via this one trick they don't want you to know' scammy ads - at best it's just an overpriced Temu swamp cooler.
Just block ads, it's better for the blood pressure.
Theo
Indy Jess John wrote:
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I >>bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am >>still happy with.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather. It is true that when first >>switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel >>surprisingly cool to sit under after that. Blowing upwards is designed
for winter use. The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the >>cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would
be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room >>occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest
speed.
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb, >>because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones >>rather than a dark room. Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced
by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs
to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon, >>and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos. Why
do the really useful products go obsolete?
If you have the time, this is quite an interesting history:
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing uphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
Chris
Theo wrote:
Are you sure you weren't watching an advert before the video? YT is
full of 'miracle personal air conditioner via this one trick they don't want >you to know' scammy ads - at best it's just an overpriced Temu swamp cooler.
Like this one:
Don't Fall for This Summer Cooling Scam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KvGHRSVTUk
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 13:29:26 +0100, Chris J Dixon <chris@cdixon.me.uk>
wrote:
Indy Jess John wrote:
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I >>bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am >>still happy with.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather. It is true that when first >>switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel >>surprisingly cool to sit under after that. Blowing upwards is designed >>for winter use. The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the >>cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would >>be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room >>occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest >>speed.
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb, >>because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones >>rather than a dark room. Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced
by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs
to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon, >>and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos. Why >>do the really useful products go obsolete?
If you have the time, this is quite an interesting history:
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing uphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
Chris
+1
While we're on about cars, I assume that the air-con/heat-pump in an EV,
and some hybrids, with its electric compressor, is more like a domestic fridge-freezer in that there is no shaft input. Does that mean that they
are less likely to develop leaks around moving seals?
(That's not a part you want to fail, looks like around 1k-u for
nearly-new used ones!)
On 25/06/2026 12:05, Kempshott wrote:
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it is
just returned to the room it was extracted from.-a In other words, it is just a fan, not a cooling device.-a DONT BUY IT. IT IS A SCAM.-a And if
you do buy it, there is no way of getting your money back from the seller.
On 26/06/2026 10:32, Indy Jess John wrote:
On 25/06/2026 12:05, Kempshott wrote:Eh? Are you thinking of the (obvious) scam product recently reviewed on Proper DIY?
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the
Screwfix one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in
a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
This is a scam product - have a look at the Truspilot reviews which
show that unless the heat extracted from a room is vented elsewhere it
is just returned to the room it was extracted from.-a In other words,
it is just a fan, not a cooling device.-a DONT BUY IT. IT IS A SCAM.
And if you do buy it, there is no way of getting your money back from
the seller.
If you even glimpsed at this video you would have seen the flexible duct going out the window.
I'm sure Screwfix would refund if it were a scam. It gets good reviews
on their own site (4.4/5) and it certainly worked well for AndyMac.
Please give a link to the Trustpilot reviews.
Gosforth Handyman just posted a very favourable review of the Screwfix
one (-u179 or so). Lots of graphs showing how well it did in a bedroom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOmzVWTH3xo
The Nomad <nomad@the.desert.invalid> wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 13:29:26 +0100, Chris J Dixon <chris@cdixon.me.uk>
wrote:
Indy Jess John wrote:
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I >>>> bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am >>>> still happy with.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather. It is true that when first >>>> switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel
surprisingly cool to sit under after that. Blowing upwards is designed >>>> for winter use. The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the >>>> cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would >>>> be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room
occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest
speed.
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb, >>>> because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones >>>> rather than a dark room. Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced >>>> by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs >>>> to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon, >>>> and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos. Why >>>> do the really useful products go obsolete?
If you have the time, this is quite an interesting history:
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing uphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
Chris
+1
I bought my fan after watching that :) The revelation was that there's such a thing as 'hugger' fans designed for low ceilings: everywhere I've had a ceiling fan had a high ceiling so I assumed they weren't an option in the
UK. Turns out they are.
What are the Roads like where you live?
UK ones in the countryside like where I live are fast becoming third world standard as Potholes and Ruts leave a surface more akin to a farm track. Vehicles get jarred so much IrCOm surprised more components donrCOt get damaged
or dislodged by the shaking .
IF you can prove a tyre / Wheel ,suspension component was damaged you may
get some compensation but I would think trying to get the authorities to acknowledge that your aircon piping has developed a leak because of a
Pothole induced jolt might be difficult.
On 2026-06-26 13:40, Marland wrote:
Rod Speed <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jun 2026 05:45:04 +1000, Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk> >>> wrote:
Simon Simple <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 16:51, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
<xxxx>
You might jury rig a a car aircon system, of course
OT: My car aircon doesn't work, the car is old and I don't care.-a The >>>>> same for my last car, and it seems a very common problem, needing to >>>>> have the aircon re-gassed.
Why? Never had anything like this with a domestic fridge.
You can get cylinders of the appropriate-a refrigerant and a gauge
with a
fitting to DIY it.
The purists / professionals utter dire warnings about using them saying >>>> existing refrigeration-a should be removed and then a measured amount >>>> put
back with the right lubricants etc. They are probably right for a
newish
vehicle but on an older one it could be worth the gamble.
Cost of Gas and gauge will be more than a top up at say Kwic fit but
there
is usually enough in the cylinder to do it 3 or 4 times .My 13 year old >>>> car
needs topping up about every 9 to 10 months.
Fark, my 20 year old Hyundia Getz has never needed topping
up and the aircon is just as good as it always was and I use it
every day in the summer here
What are the Roads like where you live?
UK ones in the countryside like-a where I live are fast becoming third
world
standard as Potholes and Ruts leave a surface more akin to a farm track.
Vehicles get jarred so much IrCOm surprised more components donrCOt get
damaged
or dislodged by the shaking .
IF you can prove a tyre / Wheel ,suspension component was damaged you may
get some compensation but I would think trying to get the authorities-a to >> acknowledge that your aircon piping has developed a leak because of a
Pothole induced jolt might be difficult.
GH
While we're on about cars, I assume that the air-con/heat-pump in an EV,
and some hybrids, with its electric compressor, is more like a domestic fridge-freezer in that there is no shaft input. Does that mean that they
are less likely to develop leaks around moving seals?
(That's not a part you want to fail, looks like around 1k-u for
nearly-new used ones!)
nib--
Indy Jess John wrote:
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I
bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am
still happy with.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather. It is true that when first
switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel
surprisingly cool to sit under after that. Blowing upwards is designed
for winter use. The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the
cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would
be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room
occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest speed. >>
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb,
because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones
rather than a dark room. Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced
by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs
to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon,
and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos. Why
do the really useful products go obsolete?
If you have the time, this is quite an interesting history:
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing uphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
Chris
rCLIt is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way of making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of people
who pay no price for being wrong.rCY
Chris J Dixon wrote:They still feel tacky though ...
Ceiling fans: the simple idea we keep screwing up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KWdCqpXB7A
I have just got round to watching it.-a It was interesting to see the progress towards what we have today.
On 25/06/2026 19:08, Theo wrote:
When buying, look for ceiling fans with a cfm or m3/hr figure.-a Anything
that doesn't give it (hello Argos) is just a fancy lampshade.
Theo
You may be right to criticise Argos now, but they had a product which I bought from them a long time ago (late 1980s or early 1990s?) which I am still happy with.
It came as an assemble it yourself set of parts which when assembled provided a 4-blade fan above three light fittings with glass shades.-a It was in the days of incandescent bulbs and the instructions said to use
only 60W or lower bulbs.-a As a fan, it has a reversing switch, so it can blow air from the ceiling level downwards, or blow air from the room
towards the ceiling where it spread out and descended again near the walls.-a The fan has a small chain (too long as supplied but easily shortened) that operates a 4-position switch (Off, Fast, Medium, Slow, before returning to Off) which functions in either direction as
determined by the reversing switch.-a Out of the box it was wired so that the fan was only powered when the lights were on, but I rewired it so
that the wall switch just worked the lights and the fan was solely controlled by the 4-position switch.-a That way, the lights and fan are independent of each other.
Blowing downwards works well in hot weather.-a It is true that when first switched on it draws the hottest air from the ceiling, but after a
couple of minutes that heat has been blown downwards and it does feel surprisingly cool to sit under after that.-a Blowing upwards is designed
for winter use.-a The hottest air is near the ceiling and by blowing the cooler air from the room in that direction it brings the heat that would
be wasted up there into the level where it can be felt by the room occupants, and completely draught free if the fan runs at its lowest speed.
With incandescent bulbs, it was very useful having more than one bulb, because if one bulb failed there was still light from the working ones rather than a dark room.-a Gradually as bulbs failed they were replaced
by newer products, so I have gradually gone from incandescents to CFLs
to LEDs. I replaced the last of the CFLs last year.
I have looked at the light and fan ranges offered now by B&Q and Amazon,
and there is nothing remotely similar to what I bought from Argos.-a Why
do the really useful products go obsolete?
On 26/06/2026 18:08, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
rCLIt is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way of
making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of
people who pay no price for being wrong.rCY
I have seen that expressed more succinctly:
Authority without accountability equals disaster
It was on a noticeboard in one of the places I worked.
SH <i.love@spam.com> wrote:
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor fans.......
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the extractor
fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then vented elsewhere
via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the security risk of
open windows with a python hanging out of said window?
Where does the ductwork go? Unless it's insulated you're pumping 50-60C air into say the loft, which will conduct through the ductwork walls and raise the temperature of the loft and eventually come back inside.
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning
module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting as
follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit
Cooled air return to bedroom ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit
Fresh air in from outside to unit
I expect you will overwhelm the heat exhangers in the MVHR which were expecting 20C room air and are now getting 50C. Most are designed as heat recovery units, where you retain the heat while exchanging the air: here you want to exhaust the heat (and you pull in fresh air via leaks as there is no inlet hose). The a/c already contains a heat exchanger for room air (the evaporator); the exhaust is its 'working fluid' which needs to be kept separate.
On 26/06/2026 23:45, Indy Jess John wrote:
On 26/06/2026 18:08, The Natural Philosopher wrote:I often found the opposite.
rCLIt is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way
of making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of
people who pay no price for being wrong.rCY
I have seen that expressed more succinctly:
Authority without accountability equals disaster
It was on a noticeboard in one of the places I worked.
I was responsible for meeting the requirements of various contracts, but
all too often the rule book said:
"You can't do that - first you must xxxx"
where xxxx was impossible on the contract in question.
On 27/06/2026 21:24, Sam Plusnet wrote:
On 26/06/2026 23:45, Indy Jess John wrote:Catch 22.
On 26/06/2026 18:08, The Natural Philosopher wrote:I often found the opposite.
rCLIt is hard to imagine a more stupid decision or more dangerous way >>>> of making decisions than by putting those decisions in the hands of
people who pay no price for being wrong.rCY
I have seen that expressed more succinctly:
Authority without accountability equals disaster
It was on a noticeboard in one of the places I worked.
I was responsible for meeting the requirements of various contracts,
but all too often the rule book said:
"You can't do that - first you must xxxx"
where xxxx was impossible on the contract in question.
Approved Document B (Fire Safety) requires a protected staircase or the provision of escape windows. Escape windows must meet the following criteria:
A minimum clear openable area of 0.33m-#
A minimum dimension of 450mm, and
A maximum sill height of 1,100mm from the finished floor level.
Approved Document K (Protection from falling, collision and impact)
requires that any openable window with a sill below 800mm (and with a
drop over 600mm externally) be protected to prevent falls. This means
either limiting the opening to 100mm and designing the glass to provide
fall arrest, or installing guarding to a height of 1,100mm above
finished floor level. That creates the first problem. An opening
restrictor set to 100mm may satisfy Part K rCo but it doesnrCOt meet the opening size needed for Part B escape. If you install removable
restrictors, you must ensure they can be disengaged easily without tools
or keys, or yourCOve failed compliance.
Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
The portable refrigeration/dehumidifier type do work, but need am
elephant's trunk exhaust and a water collector emptying every few hours
... and they're probably all sold out now!
On 25/06/2026 11:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
The portable refrigeration/dehumidifier type do work, but need am
elephant's trunk exhaust and a water collector emptying every few hours
... and they're probably all sold out now!
Letter in today's Daily Mail where a reader bought a cooling fan for -u89.99. The price then went up to -u160.99, then -u287.99 & ended at -u384.
wasbit <wasbit@invalid.com> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 11:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>> would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees? >>>The portable refrigeration/dehumidifier type do work, but need am
elephant's trunk exhaust and a water collector emptying every few hours >>> ... and they're probably all sold out now!
Letter in today's Daily Mail where a reader bought a cooling fan for
-u89.99. The price then went up to -u160.99, then -u287.99 & ended at -u384. >>
And in a few weeks they will be stuffed into garages, lofts , sheds under the stairs etc.. Fans at sensible prices are available all year round. Lack
of forward planning seems to be a trait of much of society today, I
suppose those sort of people have got so used to ordering on an Amazon,
Ebay Deliveroo and getting what they want next day or even quicker then
when the warehouses run out of stock they really notice it.
GH
wasbit <wasbit@invalid.com> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 11:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Jeff Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>> would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees? >>>The portable refrigeration/dehumidifier type do work, but need am
elephant's trunk exhaust and a water collector emptying every few hours
... and they're probably all sold out now!
Letter in today's Daily Mail where a reader bought a cooling fan for
-u89.99. The price then went up to -u160.99, then -u287.99 & ended at -u384. >>
And in a few weeks they will be stuffed into garages, lofts , sheds under the stairs etc.. Fans at sensible prices are available all year round. Lack
of forward planning seems to be a trait of much of society today, I
suppose those sort of people have got so used to ordering on an Amazon,
Ebay Deliveroo and getting what they want next day or even quicker then
when the warehouses run out of stock they really notice it.
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
On 11:01 25 Jun 2026, The Nomad said:
On 25 Jun 2026 09:50:13 GMT, "Jeff Gaines" <jgnewsid@outlook.com>
wrote:
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air
conditioners but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even
so it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me,
it has some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just
indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner
that would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25
degrees?
Well, late this evening the temp outside (in East Anglia) had
dropped to about 18C, and by sunrise them Wx stn suggested it was
about 16C.
However I purchased a portable a/c unit (Luxair KYR-35 u350) and it
is keeping my office (about 10' sqr) down to 22C not silent by a long
chalk but ... it won't keep the living room down that cool, but does
make it much more comfortable. Not sure i could sleep with it on but
maybe. Not tried due to not being able to easily vent it out the
window (location of sockets and style of window - some DIY needed.
Only down side other than noise level is it pulls about 1.4kW - but
that is offset by the fact it is very sunny.
HTH
Avpx
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's >> a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's >>> a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
On 26 Jun 2026 at 12:25:54 BST, Theo wrote:
SH <i.love@spam.com> wrote:
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor fans.......
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the extractor
fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then vented elsewhere
via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the security risk of
open windows with a python hanging out of said window?
Where does the ductwork go? Unless it's insulated you're pumping 50-60C air >> into say the loft, which will conduct through the ductwork walls and raise >> the temperature of the loft and eventually come back inside.
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning
module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting as
follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit
Cooled air return to bedroom ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit
Fresh air in from outside to unit
I expect you will overwhelm the heat exhangers in the MVHR which were
expecting 20C room air and are now getting 50C. Most are designed as heat >> recovery units, where you retain the heat while exchanging the air: here you >> want to exhaust the heat (and you pull in fresh air via leaks as there is no >> inlet hose). The a/c already contains a heat exchanger for room air (the
evaporator); the exhaust is its 'working fluid' which needs to be kept
separate.
I'd be looking harder at a split unit. The duct run is going to be a constant battle, and would likely add to the additional inefficiencies of the portable unit.
On 28 Jun 2026 at 08:07:55 BST, RJH wrote:
On 26 Jun 2026 at 12:25:54 BST, Theo wrote:
SH <i.love@spam.com> wrote:
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor fans....... >>>>
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the extractor >>>> fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then vented elsewhere
via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the security risk of
open windows with a python hanging out of said window?
Where does the ductwork go? Unless it's insulated you're pumping 50-60C air >>> into say the loft, which will conduct through the ductwork walls and raise >>> the temperature of the loft and eventually come back inside.
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning
module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting as >>>> follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit
Cooled air return to bedroom ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit
Fresh air in from outside to unit
I expect you will overwhelm the heat exhangers in the MVHR which were
expecting 20C room air and are now getting 50C. Most are designed as heat >>> recovery units, where you retain the heat while exchanging the air: here you
want to exhaust the heat (and you pull in fresh air via leaks as there is no
inlet hose). The a/c already contains a heat exchanger for room air (the >>> evaporator); the exhaust is its 'working fluid' which needs to be kept
separate.
I'd be looking harder at a split unit. The duct run is going to be a constant
battle, and would likely add to the additional inefficiencies of the portable
unit.
Just come across these:
https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split
Portable split system - dangle the compressor out of the window. What could go
wrong . . .
I think there is some scepticism in here about portable air conditioners
but I am struggling a bit.
I live in a chalet bungalow so my bedroom (upstairs) id effectively
built in to the loft, the temperature reached 37 degrees last night.
I sleep downstairs on the lounge floor in these conditions but even so
it was, and still is, 30 degrees. I have a fan blowing air on me, it has
some cooling effect but it's blowing warm air of course.
Government advice like "draw cool air in from outside" just indicates government who haven't taken the outside temperature.
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
On 25/06/2026 in message <xn0prfxhg8eigxw00b@news.individual.net> Jeff
Gaines wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Many thanks for all the replies :-)
The outlet hose will be a PITA. What does it carry? Can I stick it up
the chimney?
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window,
which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen, pointing >the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting door. Not ideal, >but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In other rooms we >satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
On 2026-06-30 05:34, RJH wrote:
On 28 Jun 2026 at 08:07:55 BST, RJH wrote:The one my pal bought has everything in the inside unit except for the radiator and a fan in the outside unit. So the outside unit is quite
On 26 Jun 2026 at 12:25:54 BST, Theo wrote:
SH <i.love@spam.com> wrote:I'd be looking harder at a split unit. The duct run is going to be a
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor
fans.......
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the
extractor fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then
vented elsewhere via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the >>>>> security risk of open windows with a python hanging out of said
window?
Where does the ductwork go? Unless it's insulated you're pumping
50-60C air into say the loft, which will conduct through the ductwork
walls and raise the temperature of the loft and eventually come back
inside.
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning
module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting >>>>> as follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit Cooled air return to bedroom
ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit Fresh air in from outside to unit
I expect you will overwhelm the heat exhangers in the MVHR which were
expecting 20C room air and are now getting 50C. Most are designed as
heat recovery units, where you retain the heat while exchanging the
air: here you want to exhaust the heat (and you pull in fresh air via
leaks as there is no inlet hose). The a/c already contains a heat
exchanger for room air (the evaporator); the exhaust is its 'working
fluid' which needs to be kept separate.
constant battle, and would likely add to the additional inefficiencies
of the portable unit.
Just come across these:
https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split
Portable split system - dangle the compressor out of the window. What
could go wrong . . .
light enough to be manoeuvred through a window say and the inside part
is heavier and on wheels. The condensate in his is pumped to the outside
unit for more convenient drainage outside. He has so far found it very
good.
nib
Just come across these:
https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split
Portable split system - dangle the compressor out of the window. What
could go wrong . . .
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet >> as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling heights needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
On Tue, 30 Jun 2026 10:24:35 +0100, nib <news@ingram-bromley.co.uk> wrote:
On 2026-06-30 05:34, RJH wrote:
On 28 Jun 2026 at 08:07:55 BST, RJH wrote:The one my pal bought has everything in the inside unit except for the
On 26 Jun 2026 at 12:25:54 BST, Theo wrote:
SH <i.love@spam.com> wrote:I'd be looking harder at a split unit. The duct run is going to be a
A mad thought. We have Ensuite shower rooms with extractor
fans.......
what if a coupling was used to connect the python hose to the
extractor fan, turn on said extractor fan, the hot air is then
vented elsewhere via the extractor fan ductwork so we don't have the >>>>>> security risk of open windows with a python hanging out of said
window?
Where does the ductwork go? Unless it's insulated you're pumping
50-60C air into say the loft, which will conduct through the ductwork >>>>> walls and raise the temperature of the loft and eventually come back >>>>> inside.
Also are there such things where one could buy an air conditioning >>>>>> module (like a MHRV) install in loft, then install 4 lots of ducting >>>>>> as follows:
Hot air out of bedroom ceiling to unit Cooled air return to bedroom >>>>>> ceiling
Exhaust air to outside from unit Fresh air in from outside to unit
I expect you will overwhelm the heat exhangers in the MVHR which were >>>>> expecting 20C room air and are now getting 50C. Most are designed as >>>>> heat recovery units, where you retain the heat while exchanging the
air: here you want to exhaust the heat (and you pull in fresh air via >>>>> leaks as there is no inlet hose). The a/c already contains a heat
exchanger for room air (the evaporator); the exhaust is its 'working >>>>> fluid' which needs to be kept separate.
constant battle, and would likely add to the additional inefficiencies >>>> of the portable unit.
Just come across these:
https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split
Portable split system - dangle the compressor out of the window. What
could go wrong . . .
radiator and a fan in the outside unit. So the outside unit is quite
light enough to be manoeuvred through a window say and the inside part
is heavier and on wheels. The condensate in his is pumped to the outside
unit for more convenient drainage outside. He has so far found it very
good.
nib
Make & model would be a useful/interesting thing to have, please
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window,
which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen,
pointing the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting
door. Not ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In
other rooms we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that
would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window,
which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen,
pointing the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting
door. Not ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In
other rooms we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
On 2026-06-30 11:50, Jeff Gaines wrote:
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugentThis one. I think it's already been mentioned above? Appears to be no
wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner
that would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25
degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window,
which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen,
pointing the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting
door. Not ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In
other rooms we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
longer available here (he bought his less that 2 weeks ago!):
https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/portasplit8k/electriq-portasplit8k-air-conditioner
nib
Why are DC fans better and more expensive than AC when AIUI AC
hairdryers are better and more expensive than DC?
Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
Why are DC fans better and more expensive than AC when AIUI AC
hairdryers are better and more expensive than DC?
DC motors can have continuously variable speed control, while cheap AC motors typically have just a handful of speeds (often 3 speeds based on two coils: energise coil A, coil B, or coils A+B). Also AC motors tend to vibrate at 50Hz or harmonics of that, while DC doesn't do that.
DC motors require electronics to convert from mains to DC, which adds cost. AC motors typically just have a switch to select one of the three speeds.
I've never seen a DC hairdryer - do you mean battery models? The heating part doesn't care about the power source. Battery models are likely weaker for heating and/or slower compared with mains.
Theo
On 30/06/2026 11:50 AM, Jeff Gaines wrote:
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>>would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window, >>>which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen,
pointing the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting
door. Not ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In >>>other rooms we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
The make is Arlec. Model is PA0502GB. I believe that the model is now >discontinued (we were given it over six years ago), but the direct
successor is the PA0802GB.
On 2026-06-30 11:50, Jeff Gaines wrote:
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>>would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25 degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window, >>>which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen, pointing >>>the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting door. Not >>>ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In other rooms >>>we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
This one. I think it's already been mentioned above? Appears to be no
longer available here (he bought his less that 2 weeks ago!):
https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/portasplit8k/electriq-portasplit8k-air-conditioner
nib
On 30/06/2026 in message <nai9d6FcprrU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent wrote:
On 30/06/2026 11:50 AM, Jeff Gaines wrote:
On 30/06/2026 in message <nahl6fF9ddkU1@mid.individual.net> JNugent
wrote:
Is there anything at all in the way of a portable air conditioner that >>>>> would drop the temperature in a 17' x 11' room to closer to 25
degrees?
Yes (we have one), but they're probably all sold out ATM.
The unit works well, with an exhaust tube meant for a casement window, >>>> which is something we don't have. We use the A/C in the kitchen,
pointing the (warm) exhaust out into the garage via the connecting
door. Not ideal, but it works far better than doing nothing at all. In >>>> other rooms we satisfice with a 45w or 50w oscillating fan.
Any chance of make/model please?
The make is Arlec. Model is PA0502GB. I believe that the model is now
discontinued (we were given it over six years ago), but the direct
successor is the PA0802GB.
Thank you :-)
Just come across these:
https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split
Portable split system - dangle the compressor out of the window. What
could go wrong . . .
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot >>>> air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet >>>> as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they >>>> are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling heights >> needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which gives headroom of 7ft. That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't enough if you raise your arms above your head. So you need to remember not to do that.
Theo
On 30 Jun 2026 at 15:02:47 BST, "Theo" <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot >>>>> air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet >>>>> as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they >>>>> are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling heights >>> needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which gives >> headroom of 7ft. That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't enough >> if you raise your arms above your head. So you need to remember not to do >> that.
Theo
It should be possible with modern electronically-controlled motors to make an exceedingly light ceiling fan which is largely harmless if intercepted.
On 30 Jun 2026 at 15:02:47 BST, "Theo" <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very hot >>>>> air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as quiet >>>>> as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if they >>>>> are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling heights >>> needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which gives >> headroom of 7ft. That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't enough >> if you raise your arms above your head. So you need to remember not to do >> that.
Theo
It should be possible with modern electronically-controlled motors to make an exceedingly light ceiling fan which is largely harmless if intercepted.
On 30 Jun 2026 at 15:02:47 BST, "Theo" <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling heights
needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which gives headroom of 7ft. That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't enough if you raise your arms above your head. So you need to remember not to do that.
Theo
It should be possible with modern electronically-controlled motors to make an exceedingly light ceiling fan which is largely harmless if intercepted.
On 30 Jun 2026 at 15:02:47 BST, "Theo"
<theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective >>>>>> but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very >>>>> hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as >>>>> quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation.
Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if
they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling
heights
needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings
downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which
gives
headroom of 7ft. That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't
enough
if you raise your arms above your head. So you need to remember not to
do
that.
Theo
It should be possible with modern electronically-controlled motors to
make an
exceedingly light ceiling fan which is largely harmless if intercepted.
On 01/07/2026 10:06, Roger Hayter wrote:
On 30 Jun 2026 at 15:02:47 BST, "Theo"How about a quad-copter drone stuck to the ceiling upside-down?-a-a And
<theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 25 Jun 2026 at 19:08:25 BST, Theo wrote:
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 25/06/2026 17:33, Pamela wrote:
I can't help but think that a ceiling fan may not be as effective >>>>>>> but it's
a lot less trouble to use, although it needs installing.
No, they're pretty useless. All they do is force down all the very >>>>>> hot
air which has risen to ceiling level! And a lot of them are not as >>>>>> quiet
as you think unless they are carefully balanced after installation. >>>>>> Also, cheap AC fans sometimes have motors with an annoying hum if >>>>>> they
are even slightly loose in construction. DC fans are considerably
better, but much more expensive.
I installed this one yesterday:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0GMHV5B53
(Philips branded but made by Signify)
I've looked into these in the past and been put off by high ceiling
heights
needed for safe/effective clearance - even the 2.8m ceilings
downstairs didn't
seem to cut it.
With standard 8ft ceilings, this projects 1ft below the ceiling which
gives
headroom of 7ft.-a That's enough clearance for head height, but isn't
enough
if you raise your arms above your head.-a So you need to remember not
to do
that.
Theo
It should be possible with modern electronically-controlled motors to
make an
exceedingly light ceiling fan which is largely harmless if intercepted.
when you didn't need a down-draught you could use it for its intended purpose.
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