Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from
industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life welding gloves.
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why they
melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from
industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better
control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life
welding gloves.
-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent tactile feel .
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why they
melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from
industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better
control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life
welding gloves.
-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
tactile feel .
I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why >>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
Life welding gloves.
-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
tactile feel .
Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why >>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
Life welding gloves.
-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
tactile feel .
Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?). For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your T-shirt.
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why >>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
Life welding gloves.
-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
tactile feel .
Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why >>>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for >>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison >>>>>> Life welding gloves.
-a-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
tactile feel .
Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
-a-a I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
-a-a exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
-a cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?).-a For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
T-shirt.
I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from Cleveland.-a (20 miles west in Avon)-a It was pretty miserable when the temps were in the 90s(F).-a I'm not so sure about your comments about
temp and humidity.-a In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the air.-a Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
On 4/20/2026 3:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
Many |ore4+o100% cotton|ore4-Y gloves are actually blends, which is why
they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves >>>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for >>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison >>>>>> Life welding gloves.
-a-a-a Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent >>>>> tactile feel .
Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.-a Both are leather.
I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
doubt anybody makes that.
I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I >>>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves >>>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.-a I do have some canvas welding
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
-a-a I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
-a-a exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
-a cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity. >>
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so >> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?).-a For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your >> T-shirt.
I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from Cleveland.-a (20 miles west in Avon)-a It was pretty miserable when the temps were in the 90s(F).-a I'm not so sure about your comments about
temp and humidity.-a In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the air.-a Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
They're not breaking "points" it's more gradual . You just wake up
one day and realize that if you can get 3 or 4 hours of work in that's a good day .
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?). For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your T-shirt.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10s643t$11ks6$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?). For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
T-shirt.
I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from Cleveland. (20 miles west in Avon) It was pretty miserable when the
temps were in the 90s(F). I'm not so sure about your comments about
temp and humidity. In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more
evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier. They refrigerate it and
force it to condense. Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE
used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those
are not human habitable temperatures.
A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher
heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the
inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.
I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the
air. Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10s643t$11ks6$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
cooling .
Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?). For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
T-shirt.
I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from Cleveland. (20 miles west in Avon) It was pretty miserable when the
temps were in the 90s(F). I'm not so sure about your comments about
temp and humidity. In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more
evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier. They refrigerate it and
force it to condense. Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE
used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those
are not human habitable temperatures.
A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher
heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the
inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.
I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the
air. Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
It is mind-boggling that it can get too hot to ride around on a
motorcycle. That that occurs in Southern USA.
We in England the opposite - when it is warm enough to ride as a
delight.
These days I wash the motorcycle and put it away when the salting the
road starts.
Partly because I seem to always have something else that takes--
priority , partly because I'm getting old .
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.
On 4/30/2026 11:14 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
It is mind-boggling that it can get too hot to ride around on a
motorcycle. That that occurs in Southern USA.
We in England the opposite - when it is warm enough to ride as a
delight.
These days I wash the motorcycle and put it away when the salting the
road starts.
I used to ride all winter , our area uses very little salt and not
everywhere . These days I actually ride very little , and haven't
taken a "long" ride in several years . Partly because I seem to
always have something else that takes priority , partly because I'm
getting old .
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...
I missed these responses with being ...
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.
-------------------------
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_Shovel_Loader
How does the crushed ore get to the end of the track, or the track
into the pile? Dumping the ore onto the track seems likely to derail
the machine.
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
On 4/30/2026 11:14 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
It is mind-boggling that it can get too hot to ride around on a
motorcycle. That that occurs in Southern USA.
We in England the opposite - when it is warm enough to ride as a
delight.
These days I wash the motorcycle and put it away when the salting the
road starts.
I used to ride all winter , our area uses very little salt and not
everywhere . These days I actually ride very little , and haven't
taken a "long" ride in several years . Partly because I seem to
always have something else that takes priority , partly because I'm
getting old .
My 750cc motorcycle spends most of its time at about 27MPH :-)
It is good to have a moment tucked behind the screen and ride-out along
the highway at 70MPH - hold that for a few minutes tucked-in between the general traffic going places smoothly while I am there with the wind
roar and the twin-cylinder engine rumbling.
Then off the highway and onto the lanes...
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...
I missed these responses with being ...
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.
-------------------------
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_Shovel_Loader
How does the crushed ore get to the end of the track, or the track
into the pile? Dumping the ore onto the track seems likely to derail
the machine.
Pardon - not understanding the question well.
Pardon if my best guess is wrong.
As best I understand - you'd be using an Eimco while driving as tunnel
during "development" - while you are taking ore, you are "developing"
into new resource so the mine continues in a quasi-static balance of extraction and development.
If you are looking to where the tonnages of ore gets onto the tramming
level, that's through "box holes" and down "cousin jack chutes" into the wagons. It's a hopper in gravity, with all but the wooden chute being
formed in the rock. No Eimco there. All gravity. This is the whole
concept of "stoping". Various strategies to do it, but in Cornwall a
lot was "shrinkage stoping". You drill overhead into the lode with a "peg-leg". Then blast to break-up the lode. The trammers usually
working at night draw off a certain amount of ore down the cousin jack
chutes into the wagons such that the space left is just right for the
stopers coming in the next day to have a couple of metres height to
repeat drill-and-blast. Hence "shrinkage stoping". No of this involves Eimcos. You only freely draw-off the blasted broken-up ore when the
stopers cannot go any higher because they are just below the previous
deepest level.
Back to the Eimcos and development.
You drill with an air-leg (N.Am. "jack-leg") rock-drill and blast.
One part of your question - never seen it, but you lay channels on the
rails which push up to the blasted material and drive the Eimco down
those channels. The Eimco back-flips the broken material, probably
mainly "attle" ("deads" - no or not worth bothering with mineral
content), into the wagon behind, and when full is taken away and new
empty wagon there.
As the drive continues, the folk who make box-holes come along and break
into the lode on the upward diagonal. So that will be some muck to
clear-up.
I heard first hand about this because through a frosted-glass window of
a caravan ("trailer") I saw a vague object and asked if that is an
exploder (for electric detonators - newer more compact version of the "dynamo" version Wile-e-Coyote frequently uses in the "Roadrunner"
cartoons). He said yes and showed me. He was a box-hole maker. He
joined us for a cup of tea and explained the method, equipment and how
it was used in stoping.
BTW in at least one abandoned mine there's a stope where you are
up-and-down because the ore has been drawn off from down below by the boxholes, and it wasn't worth pushing the "serations" of piles
in-between into the box-holes, so you get a lot of exercise going
up-and-down along the huge nearly-empty stope.
Down below, the cousin jack chutes are still there.
Hope this is what you sought.
Best wishes
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m15x56h03v.fsf@void.com... > * volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...
https://www.cornishmineimages.co.uk/cornish-mines-underground-1/
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m15x56h03v.fsf@void.com... > * volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...
https://www.cornishmineimages.co.uk/cornish-mines-underground-1/
| Sysop: | Amessyroom |
|---|---|
| Location: | Fayetteville, NC |
| Users: | 65 |
| Nodes: | 6 (0 / 6) |
| Uptime: | 00:58:20 |
| Calls: | 862 |
| Files: | 1,311 |
| D/L today: |
10 files (20,373K bytes) |
| Messages: | 264,187 |