"Snag"-a wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...
-a My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
-a I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
I want to check with him to be sure .
...
On 23/07/2024 16:12, Snag wrote:
On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of >>> his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on >>> the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the >>> head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
-a I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
I want to check with him to be sure .
If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's beyond saving.
-a My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
On 7/23/2024 6:03 AM, Snag wrote:
-a-a My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin
of his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has
wear on the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding
against the head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS
for better abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard ,
can be marked with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is
also a consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
Sounds like its done.
I once sat down to make a new box shaped blade clamp for a Craftsman reciprocating saw.-a (Like a Sawszall.)-a I had picked out a piece of
metal, started taking measurements, and headed in to the computer to
model it up...-a a couple days later the brand new replacement part
arrived in a mail and it was only a couple dollars.-a It wasn't critical
to have it that day. I already had a newer Milwaukee SuperSawszall if I needed one.-a I just hated having a useless tool on the shelf.
I agree that ordering the part was probably cheaper than the value of
your time, but to everybody else... there is some value to having your neighbor "owe you one."
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