• stripping insulation from these tiny wires??

    From Nick Sebul@nsebul@nowhere.net to sci.electronics.repair on Tue Apr 28 17:37:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    I am trying to strip some of the insulation from these tiny wires
    terminating in connectors:

    https://imgur.com/a/QZ6bV7P

    However, I am not having much success. The first time I tried, every
    time I try to strip, the wire comes along with it, but I unseated one of
    the yellow wires from the tiny connector. What you see are two spares
    so I can try again, but this time correctly.

    I'm not sure of the wire gauge, but nothing I have here seems to be able
    to strip them properly. The wires originally came from electret
    microphone capsules. I have such capsules with similar wires/
    connectors, but they are larger gauge and easier to work with.

    Your stripping advice welcome so I don't repeat the prior disaster and
    thanks in advance.
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  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to sci.electronics.repair on Tue Apr 28 19:02:04 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:

    I am trying to strip some of the insulation from these tiny wires >terminating in connectors:

    https://imgur.com/a/QZ6bV7P

    However, I am not having much success. The first time I tried, every
    time I try to strip, the wire comes along with it, but I unseated one of
    the yellow wires from the tiny connector. What you see are two spares
    so I can try again, but this time correctly.

    Like these?
    <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xkEAAeSwMWRor9GX/s-l1600.jpg>

    I'm not sure of the wire gauge, but nothing I have here seems to be able
    to strip them properly. The wires originally came from electret
    microphone capsules. I have such capsules with similar wires/
    connectors, but they are larger gauge and easier to work with.

    Your stripping advice welcome so I don't repeat the prior disaster and >thanks in advance.

    The idea is to NOT scrape or cut the wire. I use one of several
    Teledyne Stripall thermal wire strippers: <https://www.google.com/search?q=teledyne%20stripall%20thermal%20wire%20strippers&num=10&udm=2>
    You'll also probably need some replacement blades: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/223263002855>
    You do NOT want blades with a "notch" for the wire. The notch will
    "nick" the wire which will eventually break.

    Now for the bad news. Surplus thermal wire strippers have become
    expensive. I obtained my first used Teledyne TW-1 thermal strippers
    in about 1968 by dumpster diving, surplus stores and garage sales. I
    probably paid about $5 for my older models. Today, the same wire
    strippers sell for about $100 on eBay. <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Teledyne%20thermal%20wire%20stripper>

    More bad news. You will need to spend some time learning how to strip
    fine wires. A thermal wire stripper will make things easier, but you
    can still make a mess without adequate practice. Repeating whatever
    you're doing wrong isn't going to help. I suggest you find a YouTube
    tutorial and practice on scrap insulated wire. <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=thermal%20wire%20stripper>

    I've been stripping wire for most of my life. I suspect I've mastered
    the art by now. I mostly use thermal wire strippers for PTFE
    insulated wire and coaxial cable. For most everything else, I use a
    pair of small, flush cut, wire cutters. This looks like my favorite: <https://www.esslinger.com/lindstrom-80-series-cutters-8160-large-oval/>
    I paid about $5 per pair. I hold the cutters like this: <https://photos.app.goo.gl/PqhTaKQzV4JmXJB7A>
    The strange finger position allows me to hold the cutter jaws open in
    a fixed position. The cutter blades can face either direction. Yes,
    it took some practice learning how to do it properly.

    Good luck.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From liz@liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham) to sci.electronics.repair on Wed Apr 29 10:13:52 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:

    I am trying to strip some of the insulation from these tiny wires >terminating in connectors:

    [...]
    Now for the bad news. Surplus thermal wire strippers have become
    expensive.

    Try touching the insulation on two sides of the wire with a clean
    soldering iron tip before pulling. Experiment with already-damaged wire
    to see if it works.
    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk
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  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.repair on Wed Apr 29 11:44:31 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    On 2026-04-29 04:02, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:


    The idea is to NOT scrape or cut the wire. I use one of several
    Teledyne Stripall thermal wire strippers: <https://www.google.com/search?q=teledyne%20stripall%20thermal%20wire%20strippers&num=10&udm=2>
    You'll also probably need some replacement blades: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/223263002855>
    You do NOT want blades with a "notch" for the wire. The notch will
    "nick" the wire which will eventually break.

    Interesting. I have never seen something like this. But I have used a
    lighter.
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
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  • From Nick Sebul@nsebul@nowhere.net to sci.electronics.repair on Wed Apr 29 06:48:34 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    Sorry, all, I wrote too soon! A few weeks ago, I did another project
    that I encountered after I posted here where it used the same connector
    type with stripped wires. I scratched my head for a moment trying to
    figure out how I stripped the tiny wires. Then it came to me-- I used
    my stripper:

    https://www.radioshack.com.eg/en/radioshack-heavy-duty-automatic-wire-cutter-stripper-64-083

    I had forgotten about that project and how I stripped the wires, but
    tried using the stripper this time and success!

    I initially dismissed using it, in part because I had forgotten about
    the prior use, and also I didn't think it would be able to strip the
    wires. On the unit itself, it does say stripping for 10-24 gauge wire.
    The wire terminating in the connectors is more like 26-28 ga though, but
    it still handled it successfully.
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  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to sci.electronics.repair on Wed Apr 29 09:25:10 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 29 Apr 2026 10:13:52 +0100, liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid
    (Liz Tuddenham) wrote:

    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:

    I am trying to strip some of the insulation from these tiny wires
    terminating in connectors:

    [...]
    Now for the bad news. Surplus thermal wire strippers have become
    expensive.

    Try touching the insulation on two sides of the wire with a clean
    soldering iron tip before pulling. Experiment with already-damaged wire
    to see if it works.

    The soldering iron is too hot for most insulation. The insulation
    should melt, not burn[1]. Long ago, I attached a cutting blade to a
    soldering iron and tried to use it as a wire stripper. At the time,
    we didn't have temperature controlled soldering irons. I had two
    problems. The insulation burned instead of melted and the iron took
    too long to heat up and cool down. The Teledyne thermal wire stripper
    doesn't generate much heat. The "blade" did eventually glow red hot,
    but the thick "rods" were only slightly warm. I could make some
    temperature measurements (this weekend) if anyone is interested.

    Most of the surplus Teledyne wire strippers I mentioned were made for
    the aerospace industry, which at the time, used PTFE (Teflon)
    insulation. PTFE melts at 327#C (621#F). PVC insulation melts at 170
    #C (338 #F). Some manner of temperature adjustment should have been
    necessary. However, most of the thermal wire strippers did not have a temperature adjustment. That worked because the wire stripper was not
    running hot continuously. The cutter would be at temperature in a few
    seconds. The user would close the jaws or push the button, which
    would start the heating. After one or two seconds, the heated blade
    would be hot enough to strip the wire. Once stripped, the user would
    release the jaws, which turned off the power. They would then put it
    down on a stand or just on the workbench. In other words, the working temperature was set by how long the device was turned on.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Theo@theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk to sci.electronics.repair on Fri May 1 21:56:10 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
    On 2026-04-29 04:02, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:


    The idea is to NOT scrape or cut the wire. I use one of several
    Teledyne Stripall thermal wire strippers: <https://www.google.com/search?q=teledyne%20stripall%20thermal%20wire%20strippers&num=10&udm=2>
    You'll also probably need some replacement blades: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/223263002855>
    You do NOT want blades with a "notch" for the wire. The notch will
    "nick" the wire which will eventually break.

    Interesting. I have never seen something like this. But I have used a lighter.

    I wonder if you should do something similar with an ordinary pair of
    strippers (or cutters) and a flame. Heat the nose of the tool in the flame, then strip a wire. Probably take some practice about how long to hold in
    the flame and how much pressure to apply, but you could perhaps get up to
    the temps of the thermal strippers.

    No good of course if you're doing aerospace stuff where the tool and process need to be certified, but if you aren't bothered if the connection might fail...

    Theo

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to sci.electronics.repair on Fri May 1 18:28:18 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.repair

    On 01 May 2026 21:56:10 +0100 (BST), Theo
    <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
    On 2026-04-29 04:02, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Tue, 28 Apr 2026 17:37:58 -0400, Nick Sebul <nsebul@nowhere.net>
    wrote:


    The idea is to NOT scrape or cut the wire. I use one of several
    Teledyne Stripall thermal wire strippers:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=teledyne%20stripall%20thermal%20wire%20strippers&num=10&udm=2>
    You'll also probably need some replacement blades:
    <https://www.ebay.com/itm/223263002855>
    You do NOT want blades with a "notch" for the wire. The notch will
    "nick" the wire which will eventually break.

    Interesting. I have never seen something like this. But I have used a
    lighter.

    I wonder if you should do something similar with an ordinary pair of >strippers (or cutters) and a flame. Heat the nose of the tool in the flame, >then strip a wire. Probably take some practice about how long to hold in
    the flame and how much pressure to apply, but you could perhaps get up to
    the temps of the thermal strippers.

    No good of course if you're doing aerospace stuff where the tool and process >need to be certified, but if you aren't bothered if the connection might >fail...

    Theo

    Bad idea. The idea is to heat the blade but NOT the pliers.

    "Hot Wire Strippers Are Probably The Best Tool You ArenAt Using" <https://hackaday.com/2016/08/09/hot-wire-strippers-are-probably-the-best-tool-you-arent-using/>

    "StripAll Thermal Wire Strippers from Teledyne Impulse" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgCkZeBICkY>

    Notice the blades and the "rods". The "rods" deliver current to the
    blades. The blades are thin and will heat or cool rapidly. The
    "rods" are large, solid and will become hot about the same time that
    the blades glow red.

    If you try the same thing with a pair of insulated pliers, you'll burn
    your hand and possibly melt the vinyl insulation covering the plier
    handles.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

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