• Stupid Designers

    From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Tue Aug 4 18:09:59 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


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  • From Martin Brown@'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 09:53:53 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 05/08/2026 02:09, Don Y wrote:
    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven.-a Same problem.-a Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Why do you need heating in mid-summer when outside is already too hot?

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    There usually is but it is known only to their field engineers and
    consists of some unlikely combination of keys all at once for a specific
    time period. Much like resetting Android devices only cruder.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue!-a (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")

    They do that so that they can market after sales support contracts to
    the unlucky purchaser.

    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.
    --
    Martin Brown

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  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 06:03:56 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/5/2026 1:53 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
    On 05/08/2026 02:09, Don Y wrote:
    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven.-a Same problem.-a Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Why do you need heating in mid-summer when outside is already too hot?

    Making dinner. I.e., ovens were warmer than ambient so
    some sort of of heat was being created -- but, not the 400F I had
    sought.

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    There usually is but it is known only to their field engineers and consists of
    some unlikely combination of keys all at once for a specific time period. Much
    like resetting Android devices only cruder.

    Nothing is present in their (factory) service manual.
    So, it must be REALLY secret! :>

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue!-a (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")

    They do that so that they can market after sales support contracts to the unlucky purchaser.

    It is "smart" enough to note when mains have been improperly
    connected, when it is getting too hot, too fast, etc. It
    has a "screen" on which to convey messages.

    But, fails to notice when it's not heating AT ALL!
    (you THINK the door is closed, you KNOW you are engaging
    the heating elements, you are not seeing an expected
    temperature change --> the heating elements aren't
    operating properly OR your sensing of the environment
    is incorrect. In either case, your expectations of
    The World aren't consistent with what you're being told
    (so, something is wrong).
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.


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  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 06:19:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote:
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.
    A *service call* would generate income (and, bad feelings!).
    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why
    these avenues are increasingly automated.

    Regardless, you don't want to be "known" for shitty products,
    especially those with big price tags that are hard to just
    "swap out" (like a major appliance)
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  • From Jeroen Belleman@jeroen@nospam.please to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 20:07:51 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/5/26 15:19, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote:
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.
    A *service call* would generate income (and, bad feelings!).
    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why
    these avenues are increasingly automated.

    Regardless, you don't want to be "known" for shitty products,
    especially those with big price tags that are hard to just
    "swap out" (like a major appliance)

    Kitchen appliances should be simple. Our oven has a electro-
    mechanical clock and a bimetal thermostat. It is used daily
    and has been going for 43 years. You'd be lucky to get even
    a third of that with a modern 'smart' appliance.

    And in practice, we always run the same program, so what good
    are the smarts?

    Our first dishwasher, 1980's issue, lasted twenty years. Our
    newest electronic marvel, barely five years old, has needed
    repairs twice already. Each new one seems to have a shorter
    lifespan than the one that came before it.

    Jeroen Belleman
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  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 13:15:52 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/5/2026 12:49 PM, Lasse Langwadt wrote:
    On 8/5/26 03:09, Don Y wrote:
    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven.-a Same problem.-a Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?


    so if you stick some big frozen thing in it so it doesn't heat up as fast as expected it should error out?
    It should alert the user to that "observation". If the
    user acknowledges it, then, at worse, you have annoyed
    the user momentarily. (the user's acknowledgement can
    also act to silence or delay additional indications)

    "So, if the temperature sensor fails and the oven is now at
    (or above) it's high temperature design limit, it should NOT
    error out?"

    Software should always try to verify it's notion of reality.
    If you engage a motorized mechanism for 2 hours and the
    normal extent of travel is covered in 20 *seconds*,
    wouldn't you expect SOMETHING to be wrong? Or, should
    you just gleefully continue with the expectation that,
    sooner or later, the end-of-travel condition will be signaled?

    There is a reason we use invariants in writing software:
    Because they ARE invariants!
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  • From Martin Brown@'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 21:23:48 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 05/08/2026 14:19, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote:
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.

    A *service call* would generate income (and, bad feelings!).

    Customers were usually very keen to get it back working again.

    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why
    these avenues are increasingly automated.

    Or pass you from pillar to post in the hope that you will give up.

    Regardless, you don't want to be "known" for shitty products,
    especially those with big price tags that are hard to just
    "swap out" (like a major appliance)

    Ovens used to be huge immovable objects with insane power requirements permanently wired into a fat cable on their own circuit. But a modern
    combi microwave can easily run off a 13A socket no problems.

    Much better insulation, recirculating the hot air, good airtight seals
    and double glazing makes a big difference and you can use any combo of
    grill, oven microwave to get the desired cooking effect.

    Air fryers are all the rage over here in the UK with even lower power requirements and work pretty well.
    --
    Martin Brown

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  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 13:48:39 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

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  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Wed Aug 5 14:46:13 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/5/2026 1:23 PM, Martin Brown wrote:
    On 05/08/2026 14:19, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote:
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.

    A *service call* would generate income (and, bad feelings!).

    Customers were usually very keen to get it back working again.

    Yes, but few folks EXPECT things to break and tend to be annoyed
    that they have to PAY to get them repaired. Whether it's "right
    out of the box" or has been in service for decades.

    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why
    these avenues are increasingly automated.

    Or pass you from pillar to post in the hope that you will give up.

    But that also works against you (the manufacturer), in the
    long run. Whether it adds a subconscious bias that causes
    you to buy a competitor's product... OR, causes you to actively
    advocate AGAINST the "offending" manufacturer.

    Regardless, you don't want to be "known" for shitty products,
    especially those with big price tags that are hard to just
    "swap out" (like a major appliance)

    Ovens used to be huge immovable objects with insane power requirements permanently wired into a fat cable on their own circuit. But a modern combi microwave can easily run off a 13A socket no problems.

    They are now made out of considerably flimsier materials
    (the 30" side-by-side oven I grew up with would be a chore
    to move). But, still require a heavy, dedicated circuit
    (this 50A @ 220VAC for the two ovens and 4 stovetop burners)

    It was purchased to allow us to eliminate the countertop
    "toaster/convection" oven -- which competed for space
    with the microwave oven, etc. (this oven consists
    of two "half ovens" that can each operate in convection
    or radiant mode and be combined to form a larger oven;
    so, most of the time we use one of the smaller half-ovens
    instead of the countertop unit)
    Much better insulation, recirculating the hot air, good airtight seals and double glazing makes a big difference and you can use any combo of grill, oven
    microwave to get the desired cooking effect.

    Depending on which of the two half-ovens you select -- or, the FULL
    oven -- there are different cooking modes available: dehydrate,
    convection, broil, roast, bake, air fry, bread proofing, etc.

    Sadly, the controls were designed by the same "stupid designers";
    you have ONE set of controls that has to interact with three
    different "primary processes": two independant ovens, each with
    temperature, time and mode controls as well as a general purpose
    timer. So, if you are interacting with one of these and another
    clamors for attention, everything gets f*cked up -- sort of
    like the W3.1 days where an out-of-paper error on a printer
    was deemed the most important event since the coming of christ!
    (i.e., a modal dialog overlaying and overriding whatever you
    may have been doing at the time).

    Air fryers are all the rage over here in the UK with even lower power requirements and work pretty well.

    We tend to live with a "half oven" *when* we use the oven.
    Many things are stovetop preparation and/or microwave reheat.

    The full oven has usually only used for baking.

    [Yet another f*ckup: timer is whole minutes only. So, you
    can't be reminded in e.g., 4.5 minutes to turn the tray of
    cookies for the next 4.5 minutes. And, no one realized that
    having "timer presets" would likely be A Good Thing -- esp
    if easily accessed... like "repeat last time interval"?]

    Too many products show an absence of domain experts in their design.
    As if someone (likely an engineer tasked with designing the device!)
    just put their own ideas into the design without consulting folks
    who might actually USE it!

    [Does the timer REALLY need to handle 9 hours and 59 minutes?
    Should you have to specify a number of hours, ENTER, and then
    a number of minutes, ENTER? Should 59 minutes wrap to 00
    minutes? Or, perhaps 1:00?]

    What's most annoying is that it's probably a one week design problem...
    to get it RIGHT! I could probably buy a house for the monies they
    likely pissed away on *this* design!

    Ditto the microwave oven: if you are cooking something (and, thus,
    most likely relying on *THE* timer), you can't use the general
    purpose "timer" feature in the unit. (really? can't walk and
    chew gum at the same time???)
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  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Thu Aug 6 09:43:09 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics. Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas and
    turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you
    can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney

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  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Thu Aug 6 08:18:42 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Jeroen Belleman <jeroen@nospam.please>wrote:
    On 8/5/26 15:19, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote:
    Our customer care department was a huge profit centre in its own right.
    A *service call* would generate income (and, bad feelings!).
    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why
    these avenues are increasingly automated.

    Regardless, you don't want to be "known" for shitty products,
    especially those with big price tags that are hard to just
    "swap out" (like a major appliance)

    Kitchen appliances should be simple. Our oven has a electro-
    mechanical clock and a bimetal thermostat. It is used daily
    and has been going for 43 years. You'd be lucky to get even
    a third of that with a modern 'smart' appliance.

    And in practice, we always run the same program, so what good
    are the smarts?

    Our first dishwasher, 1980's issue, lasted twenty years. Our
    newest electronic marvel, barely five years old, has needed
    repairs twice already. Each new one seems to have a shorter
    lifespan than the one that came before it.

    Jeroen Belleman


    My new washing machine failed at the first wash
    Repair man came under guarantee, had a new control board,
    used my laptop to program it...
    Let me keep the defective board, found it could not hande mains spikes (plenty of that here)
    Got some of the relevant chips from ebay, and for sure it blew up again after a while (the new board).
    Replaced the chips...
    So... added a cheap spike protector in the mains
    been woring now OK for more than 10 years.
    https://panteltje.nl/pub/mains_protector_IXIMG_0503.JPG
    contains some VDRs and spark-gaps:
    https://panteltje.nl/pub/mains_protector_IXIMG_0501.JPG
    About 5 Euro at the local market place...

    The Whirlpool washer designers should have done better.
    But the repair shops have work to do.,,,


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  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Thu Aug 6 06:54:22 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    Or damp or greasy. Where is that?

    There are people cooking with 100-year-old gas stoves. In fact I've
    seen them on sale. No electronics in a stove is going to last even 50
    years, and good luck fixing it.


    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas and >turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    There is a procedure that I will reveal for the first time here:

    Turn on the gas

    Light the burner

    Cook

    Turn off the gas.


    That works with electronic igniters or with matches.


    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you
    can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of installation."
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 00:38:07 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    Or damp or greasy. Where is that?

    There are people cooking with 100-year-old gas stoves. In fact I've
    seen them on sale. No electronics in a stove is going to last even 50
    years, and good luck fixing it.


    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas and
    turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    There is a procedure that I will reveal for the first time here:

    Turn on the gas

    Light the burner

    Cook

    Turn off the gas.

    And the Ronan Point disaster happened because Ivy Hodge hadn't been able
    to turn off the gas, though she had every reason to believe that it
    hadn't been turned on until she tried to light it

    That works with electronic igniters or with matches.

    Unless something has gone wrong, as it did at Ronan Point.

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you
    can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of installation."

    In California you could have invoked an earthquake. Disasters happen
    despite well-thought-out procedures set up by people who were a bit
    short on imagination.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Thu Aug 6 08:51:41 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 00:38:07 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>> wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    Or damp or greasy. Where is that?

    There are people cooking with 100-year-old gas stoves. In fact I've
    seen them on sale. No electronics in a stove is going to last even 50
    years, and good luck fixing it.


    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas and >>> turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    There is a procedure that I will reveal for the first time here:

    Turn on the gas

    Light the burner

    Cook

    Turn off the gas.

    And the Ronan Point disaster happened because Ivy Hodge hadn't been able
    to turn off the gas, though she had every reason to believe that it
    hadn't been turned on until she tried to light it

    That works with electronic igniters or with matches.

    Unless something has gone wrong, as it did at Ronan Point.


    Right. Shoddy construction and bad plumbing. Not a stove valve
    problem.

    We have friends moving in together (cute couple) and smell gas in
    their new apartment. I sent them your Ronan Point link, to show the
    landlord.

    There is usually a corrugated flex pipe between the wall and the back
    of the stove. Older ones are notorious for cracking and leaking.




    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you >>> can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of
    installation."

    In California you could have invoked an earthquake. Disasters happen
    despite well-thought-out procedures set up by people who were a bit
    short on imagination.

    We didn't have many (or any?) gas explosions in the 1989 quake. The
    big killer in East Bay was the stupid stacked freeway that collapsed
    and squashed cars on the lower deck. In San Francisco, most people
    were killed by falling bricks. A section of the Bay Bridge fell out
    too.

    My old Victorian was built in 1892 so survived 1906 and 1989. We had
    cracks in some lath and plaster walls, and a brick chimney broke up.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 15:44:43 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 7/08/2026 1:51 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 00:38:07 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>> wrote:

    <snip>

    Right. Shoddy construction and bad plumbing. Not a stove valve
    problem.

    The construction wasn't seen as "shoddy" when the building was put up -
    the gas explosion did expose a weakness in the design concept.

    And over-tightening a connecting nut is bad workmanship, not bad plumbing.

    The problem with gas stoves isn't in the valves, but in the concept of delivering gas to a kitchen where it can accumulate without getting
    burnt until you have a fuel-air bomb.


    We have friends moving in together (cute couple) and smell gas in
    their new apartment. I sent them your Ronan Point link, to show the
    landlord.

    They didn't smell gas - we don't have receptors for the combustible
    components of petroleum gas. What they smelled was tertiary butyl
    mercaptan whose odour we can detect in quite low concentrations, which
    is added gas supplies to make leakage detectable.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tert-Butylthiol

    The wikipedia article doesn't mention that skunks use the odour as a
    defensive weapon.

    There is usually a corrugated flex pipe between the wall and the back
    of the stove. Older ones are notorious for cracking and leaking.

    There are better ways of accommodating movement between the wall and the stove. A loop of copper pipe can accommodate quite a lot, but copper
    pipe is priced by length. Thin-walled bellows incorporate less copper,
    which makes them cheaper.

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you >>>> can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of
    installation."

    In California you could have invoked an earthquake. Disasters happen
    despite well-thought-out procedures set up by people who were a bit
    short on imagination.

    We didn't have many (or any?) gas explosions in the 1989 quake. The
    big killer in East Bay was the stupid stacked freeway that collapsed
    and squashed cars on the lower deck. In San Francisco, most people
    were killed by falling bricks. A section of the Bay Bridge fell out
    too.

    My old Victorian was built in 1892 so survived 1906 and 1989. We had
    cracks in some lath and plaster walls, and a brick chimney broke up.

    But the gas pipes survived untouched? Lucky you.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 01:03:44 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 15:44:43 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 7/08/2026 1:51 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 00:38:07 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>>> wrote:

    <snip>

    Right. Shoddy construction and bad plumbing. Not a stove valve
    problem.

    The construction wasn't seen as "shoddy" when the building was put up -
    the gas explosion did expose a weakness in the design concept.

    And over-tightening a connecting nut is bad workmanship, not bad plumbing.

    The problem with gas stoves isn't in the valves, but in the concept of >delivering gas to a kitchen where it can accumulate without getting
    burnt until you have a fuel-air bomb.


    We have friends moving in together (cute couple) and smell gas in
    their new apartment. I sent them your Ronan Point link, to show the
    landlord.

    They didn't smell gas - we don't have receptors for the combustible >components of petroleum gas. What they smelled was tertiary butyl
    mercaptan whose odour we can detect in quite low concentrations, which
    is added gas supplies to make leakage detectable.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tert-Butylthiol

    The wikipedia article doesn't mention that skunks use the odour as a >defensive weapon.

    PG&E sells us "gas" and we can smell it.



    There is usually a corrugated flex pipe between the wall and the back
    of the stove. Older ones are notorious for cracking and leaking.

    There are better ways of accommodating movement between the wall and the >stove. A loop of copper pipe can accommodate quite a lot, but copper
    pipe is priced by length. Thin-walled bellows incorporate less copper,
    which makes them cheaper.

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you >>>>> can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of
    installation."

    In California you could have invoked an earthquake. Disasters happen
    despite well-thought-out procedures set up by people who were a bit
    short on imagination.

    We didn't have many (or any?) gas explosions in the 1989 quake. The
    big killer in East Bay was the stupid stacked freeway that collapsed
    and squashed cars on the lower deck. In San Francisco, most people
    were killed by falling bricks. A section of the Bay Bridge fell out
    too.

    My old Victorian was built in 1892 so survived 1906 and 1989. We had
    cracks in some lath and plaster walls, and a brick chimney broke up.

    But the gas pipes survived untouched? Lucky you.

    I've always been lucky. How about you?

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 02:19:37 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 7/08/2026 6:03 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 15:44:43 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 7/08/2026 1:51 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 00:38:07 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org> >>>>> wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>>>> wrote:

    <snip>

    Right. Shoddy construction and bad plumbing. Not a stove valve
    problem.

    The construction wasn't seen as "shoddy" when the building was put up -
    the gas explosion did expose a weakness in the design concept.

    And over-tightening a connecting nut is bad workmanship, not bad plumbing. >>
    The problem with gas stoves isn't in the valves, but in the concept of
    delivering gas to a kitchen where it can accumulate without getting
    burnt until you have a fuel-air bomb.


    We have friends moving in together (cute couple) and smell gas in
    their new apartment. I sent them your Ronan Point link, to show the
    landlord.

    They didn't smell gas - we don't have receptors for the combustible
    components of petroleum gas. What they smelled was tertiary butyl
    mercaptan whose odour we can detect in quite low concentrations, which
    is added gas supplies to make leakage detectable.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tert-Butylthiol

    The wikipedia article doesn't mention that skunks use the odour as a
    defensive weapon.

    PG&E sells us "gas" and we can smell it.



    There is usually a corrugated flex pipe between the wall and the back
    of the stove. Older ones are notorious for cracking and leaking.

    There are better ways of accommodating movement between the wall and the
    stove. A loop of copper pipe can accommodate quite a lot, but copper
    pipe is priced by length. Thin-walled bellows incorporate less copper,
    which makes them cheaper.

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you >>>>>> can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected. >>>>>
    "The gas leak was determined to have been caused by a cracked nut
    connecting the building's gas line to Hodge's stove, which was
    believed to have cracked due to being overtightened at the time of
    installation."

    In California you could have invoked an earthquake. Disasters happen
    despite well-thought-out procedures set up by people who were a bit
    short on imagination.

    We didn't have many (or any?) gas explosions in the 1989 quake. The
    big killer in East Bay was the stupid stacked freeway that collapsed
    and squashed cars on the lower deck. In San Francisco, most people
    were killed by falling bricks. A section of the Bay Bridge fell out
    too.

    My old Victorian was built in 1892 so survived 1906 and 1989. We had
    cracks in some lath and plaster walls, and a brick chimney broke up.

    But the gas pipes survived untouched? Lucky you.

    I've always been lucky. How about you?

    I'm still alive at 83, so I'm clearly tolerably lucky. Life expectancy
    for male Australians is currently 81.1 years, so I'm not all that lucky.
    I never smoked and I completed a post=graduate university degree, both
    of which add to your life expectancy, and aren't figured into the easily accessible statistics, so in a sense I've made some of my own luck.

    Not smoking was a conscious choice, but heavily influenced by my
    father's example - he smoked like a chimney until after he turned 60 and
    it caught up with him. Getting the post-graduate degree was matter of
    living up to my parents expectations - they both had university degrees
    at a time when this wasn't all that common. Now all my nieces and
    nephews have them.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 03:24:35 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 7/08/2026 6:03 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 15:44:43 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 7/08/2026 1:51 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Aug 2026 00:38:07 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 11:54 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org> >>>>> wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>>>> wrote:

    <snip>

    Right. Shoddy construction and bad plumbing. Not a stove valve
    problem.

    The construction wasn't seen as "shoddy" when the building was put up -
    the gas explosion did expose a weakness in the design concept.

    And over-tightening a connecting nut is bad workmanship, not bad plumbing. >>
    The problem with gas stoves isn't in the valves, but in the concept of
    delivering gas to a kitchen where it can accumulate without getting
    burnt until you have a fuel-air bomb.


    We have friends moving in together (cute couple) and smell gas in
    their new apartment. I sent them your Ronan Point link, to show the
    landlord.

    They didn't smell gas - we don't have receptors for the combustible
    components of petroleum gas. What they smelled was tertiary butyl
    mercaptan whose odour we can detect in quite low concentrations, which
    is added gas supplies to make leakage detectable.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tert-Butylthiol

    The wikipedia article doesn't mention that skunks use the odour as a
    defensive weapon.

    PG&E sells us "gas" and we can smell it.

    You don't think about what they are actually selling you, and it does
    show. You don't seem to have thought about why gas leaks ought to be detectable - the kitchen-sized fuel air-bomb - and you are
    correspondingly casual about using gas for cooking.

    Gas-fired barbeques are safer, as long as they are outdoors.

    Some clown will work out a way to make them dangerous too, and maybe win
    a Darwin Award in the process.

    <snip>
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From someone@2a59d59e3809f827ce709d3815e3950eef4a6a93af5557a93a7fdfba71460843@example.com to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 17:30:02 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    You've lost a phase. Your circuit breaker has gone bad, or your receptacle at the oven location has gone bad. It could be other things such as a rodent chewed through half the cable between the panel and the oven, double pole tstat switch has failed on passing a single phase, etc. lots of possibilities.

    It is possible to overstress the CB without making it trip, accelerating its failure eventually.

    AI:

    The National Electrical Code (NEC) governs the sizing of wiring and circuit protection for household electric ranges primarily under NEC Article 220 (Branch-Circuit, Feeder, and Service Load Calculations) and NEC Article 210 (Branch Circuits).Unlike many other major appliances, the NEC does not treat a household electric range as a continuous load, nor does it require wiring to handle 100% of its total maximum nameplate kilowatt (kW) capacity. Instead, the code implements a demand factor system because a standard household range rarely operates all burners and the oven simultaneously at maximum power.

    For standard household electric ranges, the minimum circuit and wire size are calculated using the demand factors in NEC Table 220.55 (often referred to as Column C for standard ranges).1. Ranges Rated Between 8.75 kW and 12 kWFor any single household range rated between 8.75 kW and 12 kW full capacity, the NEC sets a fixed demand load of 8 kW.You do not calculate based on 12 kW; you calculate based on 8 kW.Amperage Calculation: 8,000 Watts |+ 240 Volts = 33.33 Amps.2. Ranges Rated Over 12 kWIf a range exceeds 12 kW, the demand load increases by 5% for every additional kW (or major fraction thereof) above 12 kW.
    --
    For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/electrodesign/stupid-designers-4407951-.htm

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From someone@2a59d59e3809f827ce709d3815e3950eef4a6a93af5557a93a7fdfba71460843@example.com to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 17:30:02 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    The building was in fact collapsed by a minor pop of gas ignition that didin't even exceed a 10 psi overpressure. The woman did not even suffer hearing loss. The fitting used was brass compression nut on a flexible gas tube connecting the mains to the stove. A neighbor installed it, not the construction crew. The brass nut was defective and substandard, it probably came with the stove. Speculation is the gas accumulated at the ceiling, and that is why the odorant was not detected.

    Bottom line, the collapse should never have happened. The stacked concrete panel system, known as Larsen-Nielson, was originally intended for buldings of 6-storeys or less, and Ronan Point was far in excess of that. Of course, the entirety of the project was comprised of defective panel manufacturing, defective panel installation, defective worker supervision, defective or nonexistent inspection, defective engineering of everything.

    "It was concluded by the inquiry that the codes governing construction and design methods needed immediate reevaluation."

    https://engagedscholarship.csuohio.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1021&context=encee_facpub
    --
    For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/electrodesign/stupid-designers-4407951-.htm

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 10:40:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/7/2026 10:30 AM, someone wrote:
    You've lost a phase.

    No. The stove is smart enough to detect and indicate that. (it has
    an alphanumeric display)

    Your circuit breaker has gone bad, or your receptacle at
    the oven location has gone bad. It could be other things such as a rodent chewed through half the cable between the panel and the oven, double pole tstat
    switch has failed on passing a single phase, etc. lots of possibilities.

    The "problem" is a computer that has "lost its mind". The fact that
    it would display two different temperatures (*differing by ~100F) within seconds of each other, that the second oven (which should be cold)
    indicates the same elevated temperature, etc.

    I noticed one of the media tanks had similarly "become confused".
    I suspect days of 110F weather and the refrigeration load placed on the
    utility have caused some brownouts or dropouts that these devices
    were unable to tolerate "correctly" (shit or get off the pot).

    It is possible to overstress the CB without making it trip, accelerating its failure eventually.

    AI:

    The National Electrical Code (NEC) governs the sizing of wiring and circuit protection for household electric ranges primarily under NEC Article 220 (Branch-Circuit, Feeder, and Service Load Calculations) and NEC Article 210 (Branch Circuits).Unlike many other major appliances, the NEC does not treat a
    household electric range as a continuous load, nor does it require wiring to handle 100% of its total maximum nameplate kilowatt (kW) capacity. Instead, the
    code implements a demand factor system because a standard household range rarely operates all burners and the oven simultaneously at maximum power.

    For standard household electric ranges, the minimum circuit and wire size are
    calculated using the demand factors in NEC Table 220.55 (often referred to as
    Column C for standard ranges).1. Ranges Rated Between 8.75 kW and 12 kWFor any
    single household range rated between 8.75 kW and 12 kW full capacity, the NEC
    sets a fixed demand load of 8 kW.You do not calculate based on 12 kW; you calculate based on 8 kW.Amperage Calculation: 8,000 Watts |a-+ 240 Volts = 33.33
    Amps.2. Ranges Rated Over 12 kWIf a range exceeds 12 kW, the demand load increases by 5% for every additional kW (or major fraction thereof) above 12 kW.


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From =?UTF-8?B?Q8OzaWzDrW4=?= =?UTF-8?B?IE5pb2Nsw6Fzw61u?= =?UTF-8?B?IEdsb3N0w6lpcg==?=@thanks-to@Taf.com to sci.electronics.design on Fri Aug 7 19:44:32 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote: |---------------------------------------------------------------------|
    |"On 8/5/2026 1:23 PM, Martin Brown wrote: |
    On 05/08/2026 14:19, Don Y wrote: |
    On 8/5/2026 6:03 AM, Don Y wrote: |
    |[. . .] |
    But, a call to "support" comes out of profits -- which is why |
    these avenues are increasingly automated. |
    |
    Or pass you from pillar to post in the hope that you will give up."|
    |---------------------------------------------------------------------|

    A bad government deliberately malfunctions so.

    |--------------------------------------------------------------------|
    |"But that also works against you (the manufacturer), in the |
    |long run. Whether it adds a subconscious bias that causes |
    |you to buy a competitor's product... OR, causes you to actively | |advocate AGAINST the "offending" manufacturer. |
    |[. . .]" | |--------------------------------------------------------------------|

    Bad political parties are in a government for decades as they keep
    getting elected again. Opposition parties do get votes by disgruntled
    proles, but not enough to overthrow a prevaricating government. A
    person remarked (not on the USENET) that elections involve voters
    strugglings to determine the least evil choices to vote for.

    |--------------------------------------------------------------------|
    |"[. . .] So, if you are interacting with one of these and another |
    |clamors for attention, everything gets f*cked up -- sort of |
    |like the W3.1 days where an out-of-paper error on a printer |
    |was deemed the most important event since the coming of christ! |
    |(i.e., a modal dialog overlaying and overriding whatever you |
    |may have been doing at the time). |
    | |
    |[. . .] |
    |Too many products show an absence of domain experts in their design.|
    |As if someone (likely an engineer tasked with designing the device!)|
    |just put their own ideas into the design without consulting folks |
    |who might actually USE it! |
    | |
    |[. . .]" | |--------------------------------------------------------------------|

    A notable exception is LawTeX - i.e. files to support LaTeX to support
    an idiotic citations style for lawyers called Bluebook. Few lawyers
    who write Bluebook documents use LawTeX - instead they waste clients
    times by manually formattings documents with Microsoft Word. They even
    employ lawyers to reformat Microsoft-Word documents into the Bluebook
    standard. They call these wastes of times "Bluebooking". Lawyers like
    to exploit clients by workings inefficiently while chargings on times
    bases as opposed to actually beings productive.
    (S. HTTP://Gloucester.Insomnia247.NL/ fuer Kontaktdaten!)
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 06:44:43 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    The ony stupid thing is that you do not limit line lengh in your babble to about 80 characters.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 09:47:16 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-06 01:43, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven.-a Same problem.-a Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue!-a (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas and turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    If properly designed, only a small pilot flame can be ignited. Then when
    the probe is hot, the big flame is activated.

    For instance, on my kitchen, I have to turn the gas knob and keep it
    pushed so that gas comes out and the igniter works. If I release the
    knob, both are out. When the flame starts, it heats a passive "sensor"
    that activates the gas valve and I can release the knob.


    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and you
    can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    Why didn't she smell the gas?
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From legg@legg@nospam.magma.ca to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 07:56:13 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Thu, 06 Aug 2026 06:54:22 -0700, john larkin <jl@htigct.com> wrote:

    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    Or damp or greasy. Where is that?

    There are people cooking with 100-year-old gas stoves. In fact I've
    seen them on sale. No electronics in a stove is going to last even 50
    years, and good luck fixing it.

    Best I can offer in rebuttle is 50 year old electric ranges that
    still work, including the squirrel cage clock/timer.

    Made locally in a plant that shut down decads ago, during the
    first 'free trade' fiasco. Profitable, but bought up and shut down
    by its cross-border competitors.

    It's high temperature electrical contacts that wear out in these
    things, or anything relying on cleaning. The latter is also the
    bain of gas ranges and the reason most domestic cooks (without
    cheap help) push for electric, 'self-cleaning' oven ranges.

    Modern gas stoves are just as bad, w/r to electronics.

    RL
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 23:04:41 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/08/2026 5:47 pm, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2026-08-06 01:43, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven.-a Same problem.-a Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue!-a (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    We have gas stoves with knobs turning gas valves.

    They have electronic igniters (which cause troubles now and then) but
    you can unplug that and use a match.

    If the igniters don't work, you kitchen can fill up with unburnt gas
    and turn into a fuel-air bomb.

    If properly designed, only a small pilot flame can be ignited. Then when
    the probe is hot, the big flame is activated.

    For instance, on my kitchen, I have to turn the gas knob and keep it
    pushed so that gas comes out and the igniter works. If I release the
    knob, both are out. When the flame starts, it heats a passive "sensor"
    that activates the gas valve and I can release the knob.


    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and
    you can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    Why didn't she smell the gas?

    One of the more depressing things about the sense of smell is that it
    can saturate. When I was synthesising tertiary butyl mercaptan (as an undergraduate) I'd get worried that the synthesis wasn't working until
    people showed up and complained about the stink that I was creating.

    I was actually synthesising the thiouronium salt, which doesn't stink
    but enough of the mercaptan comes off to let you smell it.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 06:45:49 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 06:44:43 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    The ony stupid thing is that you do not limit line lengh in your babble to >about 80 characters.

    Set your newsreader to word wrap.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 06:49:57 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 07:56:13 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Aug 2026 06:54:22 -0700, john larkin <jl@htigct.com> wrote:

    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org> >>wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>> wrote:

    Stove isn't heating (well, not enough).

    Doesn't notice that the temperature isn't increasing after
    many minutes, despite knowing that *it* has commanded heat.

    Switch to other oven. Same problem. Both considerably above
    ambient so we know something is MAKING heat!

    Lots of "error codes" in the service manual... you'd
    think there would be one for "I'm confused -- what I am
    observing of my activities don't correlate with my
    expectations...."?

    Or, a means of "resetting" it -- other than pulling
    the breaker.

    You'd think the *engineer(s)* responsible for the implementation
    would at least have considered such an issue! (one can make
    allowances for a marketing/sales droid not understanding
    "sciencey stuff")


    Error codes? A stove is the worst imaginable place for electronics.
    Especially for cheap electronics.

    Not if you put the electronics where they won't get hot.

    Or damp or greasy. Where is that?

    There are people cooking with 100-year-old gas stoves. In fact I've
    seen them on sale. No electronics in a stove is going to last even 50 >>years, and good luck fixing it.

    Best I can offer in rebuttle is 50 year old electric ranges that
    still work, including the squirrel cage clock/timer.

    Made locally in a plant that shut down decads ago, during the
    first 'free trade' fiasco. Profitable, but bought up and shut down
    by its cross-border competitors.

    It's high temperature electrical contacts that wear out in these
    things, or anything relying on cleaning. The latter is also the
    bain of gas ranges and the reason most domestic cooks (without
    cheap help) push for electric, 'self-cleaning' oven ranges.

    Modern gas stoves are just as bad, w/r to electronics.

    RL

    Most of the old electric ranges that I've seen have at least one
    broken heater element. Temperature cycling to read heat is stressful.

    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 07:17:15 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/8/2026 12:47 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    If properly designed, only a small pilot flame can be ignited. Then when the probe is hot, the big flame is activated.

    Our furnace uses a hot plate igniter (previous one used a spark igniter). Temperature sensors then verify the gas is ignited (by sensing the heat)
    and allow the gas flow to continue.

    A flaw in this approach is that it requires a particular minimum fuel (gas) flow to ensure enough "heat" is generated in a short enough time to trip the sensors.

    We had a city-wide problem with gas (supply) pressure some years back.
    The furnace would ignite (flame visible). Run for a few moments and
    then self-extinguish. Doing so continuously (venting the combustion
    chamber each time to ensure no buildup of "unburnt" gas).

    [Yet another "stupid designer" issue -- how manytimes do you repeat this process before concluding that something is "broken" (gas supply in our
    case but a temperature sensor would also qualify) and requiring manual intervention/acknowledgement?]

    For instance, on my kitchen, I have to turn the gas knob and keep it pushed so
    that gas comes out and the igniter works. If I release the knob, both are out.
    When the flame starts, it heats a passive "sensor" that activates the gas valve
    and I can release the knob.
    Ugh! Knobs! Things I don't miss about gas is the lack of precise
    temperature control and the unevenness of heat across the cooking surface/volume!

    Making "red sauce" was always a chore as you couldn't get a gas flame
    *low* enough without also reducing the "area of impact" on a stovetop
    pot (I make sauce in 16 qt batches in a pot that is 15" in diameter;
    I want a very low heat ACROSS THAT ENTIRE AREA -- not confined to a tiny
    spot that causes the contents immediately above to BURN while the rest
    stays cold). I'd have to stand over the pot for the entire 12-16 hour
    period.

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove
    will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute
    the heat over a larger area. No more "checking to see if done"! Friends express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled
    while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts
    of gas combustion. All that conditioned air being forcefully exhausted...

    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".
    Though the 3KW burners invariably have to be "turned down" once
    the water does reach a boil. (everything else that we make on the
    stovetop enjoys the advantage of that uniform heat over a larger area
    as the burners can be controlled to the (three) specific sizes of
    the pots/pans that are currently present.

    [We've learned to use an electric kettle to boil the water for our
    tea and coffee; being "sealed", it seems to do the trick quickly
    and eliminates wear-and-tear on the stovetop -- I can replace a
    kettle for $20]

    Oh, and cleanup is *so* much easier -- no nooks and crannies to worry about!

    And, the oven can be quickly "steam cleaned" by pouring a cup of water *in* it that it boils off. That, to avoid the more thorough (high temperature)
    "self clean" cycle.

    Now, if they would bring back the "contact sensors" that used to control
    the stovetop elements "closed loop" (and heated butter compartments),
    things would be ideal!
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 02:12:49 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/08/2026 11:49 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 07:56:13 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Aug 2026 06:54:22 -0700, john larkin <jl@htigct.com> wrote:

    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>> wrote:

    <snip>


    Most of the old electric ranges that I've seen have at least one
    broken heater element. Temperature cycling to read heat is stressful.

    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    My younger brother has one - actually a double-width induction cook-top
    on top of a double oven. He was pretty well off even before he got the
    job of organising the Sydney Olympic Games in 2000, and his wife likes entertaining (and they have five kids and thirteen grand-kids to
    entertain these day)s.

    I used it for a couple of weeks when I house sat there while he was away
    and my wife was running a course at one of the Sydney Universities. It
    worked fine then - I found it very easy to use - and it was still
    working fine the last time I had dinner in his house - less than a year ago.

    Perhaps a bit out of your reach, but nice if you have that kind of money.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 19:41:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-08 16:17, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/8/2026 12:47 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    If properly designed, only a small pilot flame can be ignited. Then
    when the probe is hot, the big flame is activated.

    Our furnace uses a hot plate igniter (previous one used a spark igniter). Temperature sensors then verify the gas is ignited (by sensing the heat)
    and allow the gas flow to continue.

    A flaw in this approach is that it requires a particular minimum fuel (gas) flow to ensure enough "heat" is generated in a short enough time to trip
    the
    sensors.

    We had a city-wide problem with gas (supply) pressure some years back.
    The furnace would ignite (flame visible).-a Run for a few moments and
    then self-extinguish.-a Doing so continuously (venting the combustion
    chamber each time to ensure no buildup of "unburnt" gas).

    [Yet another "stupid designer" issue -- how manytimes do you repeat this process before concluding that something is "broken" (gas supply in our
    case but a temperature sensor would also qualify) and requiring manual intervention/acknowledgement?]

    These things have very limited intelligence.



    For instance, on my kitchen, I have to turn the gas knob and keep it
    pushed so that gas comes out and the igniter works. If I release the
    knob, both are out. When the flame starts, it heats a passive "sensor"
    that activates the gas valve and I can release the knob.
    Ugh!-a Knobs!-a Things I don't miss about gas is the lack of precise temperature control and the unevenness of heat across the cooking surface/volume!

    Making "red sauce" was always a chore as you couldn't get a gas flame
    *low* enough without also reducing the "area of impact" on a stovetop
    pot (I make sauce in 16 qt batches in a pot that is 15" in diameter;
    I want a very low heat ACROSS THAT ENTIRE AREA -- not confined to a tiny
    spot that causes the contents immediately above to BURN while the rest
    stays cold).-a I'd have to stand over the pot for the entire 12-16 hour period.

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove
    will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute
    the heat over a larger area.-a No more "checking to see if done"!-a Friends express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled
    while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts
    of gas combustion.-a All that conditioned air being forcefully exhausted...

    I tried some years ago (10?) to get a gas oven when the old kitchen
    thing died. I found none. Maybe one.


    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".

    Change to induction heaters :-)

    Though the 3KW burners invariably have to be "turned down" once
    the water does reach a boil.-a (everything else that we make on the
    stovetop enjoys the advantage of that uniform heat over a larger area
    as the burners can be controlled to the (three) specific sizes of
    the pots/pans that are currently present.

    [We've learned to use an electric kettle to boil the water for our
    tea and coffee; being "sealed", it seems to do the trick quickly
    and eliminates wear-and-tear on the stovetop -- I can replace a
    kettle for $20]

    Oh, and cleanup is *so* much easier -- no nooks and crannies to worry
    about!

    And, the oven can be quickly "steam cleaned" by pouring a cup of water
    *in* it
    that it boils off.-a That, to avoid the more thorough (high temperature) "self clean" cycle.


    Interesting.

    Now, if they would bring back the "contact sensors" that used to control
    the stovetop elements "closed loop" (and heated butter compartments),
    things would be ideal!
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 19:47:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response.

    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years.
    Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace
    the module) but very expensive.
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 18:10:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 06:44:43 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    The ony stupid thing is that you do not limit line lengh in your babble to >>about 80 characters.

    Set your newsreader to word wrap.

    Not all Usenet readers supoort that
    And it also means the original poopster eeeh poster is an idiot to use 1024 or more characters per line.
    Many posters here are obviously AI now and have no clue, or as much as their bosses.


    Google / duckduckgo.com search will confirm this:N++
    savetz.com
    https://www.savetz.com rC| yic rC| YIC05FI_15.html
    What should I know about Usenet "netiquette" before posting?
    If you are posting to one of the top-level hierarchies,
    your message will find its way to an audience of more than three million potential readers.
    Keep the your message at or under 72 characters per line.
    Not everyone uses the 80-column by 25-row text that you may be accustomed to, so shorter lines mean ...



    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 18:14:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response.

    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years.
    Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace
    the module) but very expensive.

    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?

    Microwaves are OK,
    As long as the shielding is OK and you keep some distance.
    Have a nice detector for leakage.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 11:35:27 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/8/2026 10:41 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    [Yet another "stupid designer" issue -- how manytimes do you repeat this
    process before concluding that something is "broken" (gas supply in our
    case but a temperature sensor would also qualify) and requiring manual
    intervention/acknowledgement?]

    These things have very limited intelligence.

    Old furnace had a PIC to run the logic. Adding a counter to the
    "loop" wouldn't have been too difficult. "Press to reset..."

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove
    will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute
    the heat over a larger area.-a No more "checking to see if done"!-a Friends >> express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled
    while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts
    of gas combustion.-a All that conditioned air being forcefully exhausted...

    I tried some years ago (10?) to get a gas oven when the old kitchen thing died.
    I found none. Maybe one.

    Gas was great when I was a kid -- two temperature settings: OFF & HI.
    Now, I tend to cook more at lower temperatures to give flavors a
    chance to develop.

    E.g., making pan-fried Wahoo, today. The pan has to be hot enough to
    cook it quickly -- but not so hot that the marinade splatters all over
    the place (and the meat is toughened). Selecting the heating element
    that fits the size of the pan ensures the entire pan comes to the same temperature at the same time.

    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".

    Change to induction heaters :-)

    We looked at them when we bought this stove. Some had limitations
    as to how many heating elements could be active at a given
    time (I think they multiplex the electronics).

    And, requires specific types of cookware.

    When I was in school (gas oven/stovetop), my cooking habits
    relied on the intense heat from the gas. My mother used to
    exclaim that I used way too much water to make pasta (to
    be fair, I did! But, it didn't take that much longer to
    boil it over gas...)

    I use far less, now, dictated by the specific pasta being boiled
    (e.g., fusilli col bucco lunghi takes an inordinate amount
    while pastina takes nothing!). I'm also smarter about HOW things
    are prepared so everything is ready at the same instant!
    Oh, and cleanup is *so* much easier -- no nooks and crannies to worry about! >>
    And, the oven can be quickly "steam cleaned" by pouring a cup of water *in* it
    that it boils off.-a That, to avoid the more thorough (high temperature)
    "self clean" cycle.

    Interesting.

    Delightful! It doesn't tie up the oven for more than half an hour
    and, so, can be done often to *keep* the oven clean. Less need for
    the "real" self-cleaning cycle and the time it requires.

    If I could get "active DE-heating", things would be even more
    convenient (many Rxs need to be cooled at deliberate rates
    to avoid falling, etc.)
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 21:52:07 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-08 20:14, Jan Panteltje wrote:
    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response.

    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years.
    Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace
    the module) but very expensive.

    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    No idea why that would be.

    Microwaves are OK,
    As long as the shielding is OK and you keep some distance.
    Have a nice detector for leakage.

    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 22:01:31 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-08 20:35, Don Y wrote:
    On 8/8/2026 10:41 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    [Yet another "stupid designer" issue -- how manytimes do you repeat this >>> process before concluding that something is "broken" (gas supply in our
    case but a temperature sensor would also qualify) and requiring manual
    intervention/acknowledgement?]

    These things have very limited intelligence.

    Old furnace had a PIC to run the logic.-a Adding a counter to the
    "loop" wouldn't have been too difficult.-a "Press to reset..."

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove >>> will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute
    the heat over a larger area.-a No more "checking to see if done"!
    Friends
    express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled
    while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts
    of gas combustion.-a All that conditioned air being forcefully
    exhausted...

    I tried some years ago (10?) to get a gas oven when the old kitchen
    thing died. I found none. Maybe one.

    Gas was great when I was a kid -- two temperature settings:-a OFF & HI.
    Now, I tend to cook more at lower temperatures to give flavors a
    chance to develop.

    My previous gas cooker, actually my mother's, had a slider to adjust a thermostat on the oven, going from 1 to 9.


    E.g., making pan-fried Wahoo, today.-a The pan has to be hot enough to
    cook it quickly -- but not so hot that the marinade splatters all over
    the place (and the meat is toughened).-a Selecting the heating element
    that fits the size of the pan ensures the entire pan comes to the same temperature at the same time.

    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".

    Change to induction heaters :-)

    We looked at them when we bought this stove.-a Some had limitations
    as to how many heating elements could be active at a given
    time (I think they multiplex the electronics).

    Depends on the brand... some they are configurable, set the maximum
    electric power of the entire thing, so as not to blow a fuse. Here the companies charge for the maximum power of the house, so except rich
    people we contract the minimum we can. So 3450 watts for a flat is
    typical. Next one is 4600.


    And, requires specific types of cookware.


    True, but today probably everything they sell is suitable.

    When I was in school (gas oven/stovetop), my cooking habits
    relied on the intense heat from the gas.-a My mother used to
    exclaim that I used way too much water to make pasta (to
    be fair, I did!-a But, it didn't take that much longer to
    boil it over gas...)

    I use far less, now, dictated by the specific pasta being boiled
    (e.g., fusilli col bucco lunghi takes an inordinate amount
    while pastina takes nothing!).-a I'm also smarter about HOW things
    are prepared so everything is ready at the same instant!
    Oh, and cleanup is *so* much easier -- no nooks and crannies to worry
    about!

    And, the oven can be quickly "steam cleaned" by pouring a cup of
    water *in* it
    that it boils off.-a That, to avoid the more thorough (high temperature) >>> "self clean" cycle.

    Interesting.

    Delightful!-a It doesn't tie up the oven for more than half an hour
    and, so, can be done often to *keep* the oven clean.-a Less need for
    the "real" self-cleaning cycle and the time it requires.

    If I could get "active DE-heating", things would be even more
    convenient (many Rxs need to be cooled at deliberate rates
    to avoid falling, etc.)
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 13:53:03 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:10:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 06:44:43 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>wrote:

    The ony stupid thing is that you do not limit line lengh in your babble to >>>about 80 characters.

    Set your newsreader to word wrap.

    Not all Usenet readers supoort that
    And it also means the original poopster eeeh poster is an idiot to use 1024 >or more characters per line.
    Many posters here are obviously AI now and have no clue, or as much as their >bosses.


    Google / duckduckgo.com search will confirm this:N++
    savetz.com
    https://www.savetz.com rC| yic rC| YIC05FI_15.html
    What should I know about Usenet "netiquette" before posting?
    If you are posting to one of the top-level hierarchies,
    your message will find its way to an audience of more than three million >potential readers.
    Keep the your message at or under 72 characters per line.
    Not everyone uses the 80-column by 25-row text that you may be accustomed to, >so shorter lines mean ...



    If it word wrapped as he typed it, as many programs do, he wouldn't
    add hard returns.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 13:57:19 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sun, 9 Aug 2026 02:12:49 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 8/08/2026 11:49 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 07:56:13 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Aug 2026 06:54:22 -0700, john larkin <jl@htigct.com> wrote:

    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>>> wrote:

    <snip>


    Most of the old electric ranges that I've seen have at least one
    broken heater element. Temperature cycling to read heat is stressful.

    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    My younger brother has one - actually a double-width induction cook-top
    on top of a double oven. He was pretty well off even before he got the
    job of organising the Sydney Olympic Games in 2000, and his wife likes >entertaining (and they have five kids and thirteen grand-kids to
    entertain these day)s.

    I used it for a couple of weeks when I house sat there while he was away
    and my wife was running a course at one of the Sydney Universities. It >worked fine then - I found it very easy to use - and it was still
    working fine the last time I had dinner in his house - less than a year ago.

    Perhaps a bit out of your reach, but nice if you have that kind of money.

    I could buy 1000 of them, but I don't want one. It will be dead in 10
    years and probably un-repairable.

    Don't they need special cookware?

    A gas flame is great for cooking.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 14:03:55 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response.

    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years.
    Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace
    the module) but very expensive.

    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    I was going to suggest that you could cut your wrists, but that would
    be in bad taste.

    I take daily aspirin on my doctor's orders. Envision lots of bleeding.

    She calls me John and I call her Sam. She wears miniskirts to work.

    Microwaves are OK,
    As long as the shielding is OK and you keep some distance.
    Have a nice detector for leakage.

    I suspect that a bit of leakage is not dangerous. Standing out in
    sunlight is probably worse.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 14:08:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 8 Aug 2026 11:35:27 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>
    wrote:

    On 8/8/2026 10:41 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    [Yet another "stupid designer" issue -- how manytimes do you repeat this >>> process before concluding that something is "broken" (gas supply in our
    case but a temperature sensor would also qualify) and requiring manual
    intervention/acknowledgement?]

    These things have very limited intelligence.

    Old furnace had a PIC to run the logic. Adding a counter to the
    "loop" wouldn't have been too difficult. "Press to reset..."

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove >>> will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute
    the heat over a larger area.a No more "checking to see if done"!a Friends >>> express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled
    while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts
    of gas combustion.a All that conditioned air being forcefully exhausted... >>
    I tried some years ago (10?) to get a gas oven when the old kitchen thing died.
    I found none. Maybe one.

    Gas was great when I was a kid -- two temperature settings: OFF & HI.
    Now, I tend to cook more at lower temperatures to give flavors a
    chance to develop.

    E.g., making pan-fried Wahoo, today. The pan has to be hot enough to
    cook it quickly -- but not so hot that the marinade splatters all over
    the place (and the meat is toughened). Selecting the heating element
    that fits the size of the pan ensures the entire pan comes to the same >temperature at the same time.

    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".

    Change to induction heaters :-)

    We looked at them when we bought this stove. Some had limitations
    as to how many heating elements could be active at a given
    time (I think they multiplex the electronics).

    And, requires specific types of cookware.

    When I was in school (gas oven/stovetop), my cooking habits
    relied on the intense heat from the gas. My mother used to
    exclaim that I used way too much water to make pasta (to
    be fair, I did! But, it didn't take that much longer to
    boil it over gas...)

    I use far less, now, dictated by the specific pasta being boiled
    (e.g., fusilli col bucco lunghi takes an inordinate amount
    while pastina takes nothing!). I'm also smarter about HOW things
    are prepared so everything is ready at the same instant!
    Oh, and cleanup is *so* much easier -- no nooks and crannies to worry about!

    And, the oven can be quickly "steam cleaned" by pouring a cup of water *in* it
    that it boils off.a That, to avoid the more thorough (high temperature)
    "self clean" cycle.

    Interesting.

    Delightful! It doesn't tie up the oven for more than half an hour
    and, so, can be done often to *keep* the oven clean. Less need for
    the "real" self-cleaning cycle and the time it requires.

    If I could get "active DE-heating", things would be even more
    convenient (many Rxs need to be cooled at deliberate rates
    to avoid falling, etc.)

    Try this:

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cascatellli

    It's wonderful. Boil for 20 minutes in very salty water.


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 14:57:38 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/8/2026 1:01 PM, Carlos E.R. wrote:

    Likewise, my baking is "set it and forget it" as I know the entire stove >>>> will be at the temperature specified as the heating elements distribute >>>> the heat over a larger area.-a No more "checking to see if done"! Friends >>>> express frustration that they can't reproduce the items they've sampled >>>> while visiting -- despite my precise instructions!

    It's also nice NOT to have to vent the kitchen to avoid the byproducts >>>> of gas combustion.-a All that conditioned air being forcefully exhausted...

    I tried some years ago (10?) to get a gas oven when the old kitchen thing >>> died. I found none. Maybe one.

    Gas was great when I was a kid -- two temperature settings:-a OFF & HI.
    Now, I tend to cook more at lower temperatures to give flavors a
    chance to develop.

    My previous gas cooker, actually my mother's, had a slider to adjust a thermostat on the oven, going from 1 to 9.

    "A knob by any other name..." :< I dislike the imprecision. My
    recipes are very explicit: this temperature for this length of time,
    etc.

    Current stovetop relies on knobs for settings. So, "about a 3-and-a-half"
    is as close as I can specify to the desired temperature.

    Our childhood electric stove had pushbutton settings for each
    burner (except the "automatic calrod"). They corresponded to the
    specific heating elements powered in each burner -- so, WHERE the
    heat was applied varied with the power setting. But, at least it
    was repeatable.

    E.g., making pan-fried Wahoo, today.-a The pan has to be hot enough to
    cook it quickly -- but not so hot that the marinade splatters all over
    the place (and the meat is toughened).-a Selecting the heating element
    that fits the size of the pan ensures the entire pan comes to the same
    temperature at the same time.

    I *do* miss being able to boil a pot of water for pasta "quickly".

    Change to induction heaters :-)

    We looked at them when we bought this stove.-a Some had limitations
    as to how many heating elements could be active at a given
    time (I think they multiplex the electronics).

    Depends on the brand... some they are configurable, set the maximum electric power of the entire thing, so as not to blow a fuse. Here the companies charge
    for the maximum power of the house, so except rich people we contract the minimum we can. So 3450 watts for a flat is typical. Next one is 4600.

    Here, such a tariff would apply after-the-fact: whatever maximum rate of consumption used (in a 15 minute period, IIRC) would determine your
    rate. Likewise, at which time-of-day (to discourage "on peak" usage).

    In the US, folks tend to be gluttonous when it comes to energy. E.g.,
    we used ~1800KWHr last month -- about 60KWHr/day or 2500WHr/Hr as an
    "average rate". 24 hours per day, etc. Of course, our peak was
    considerably higher than that (as the ACbrrr guzzles power at an
    incredible rate)

    And, requires specific types of cookware.

    True, but today probably everything they sell is suitable.

    But, that doesn't mean everything you already *own* is suitable! :>
    Many people "invest" in quality cookware and hang onto it for decades.

    We ultimately decided to stick with a technology we already understood
    instead of trying to relearn how to prepare our favorite meals.

    [Some people enjoy cooking. We treat it as a chore that has to be
    done -- though one that can be tailored to exploit the foodstuffs
    we most enjoy (which often are not available from restaurants
    or other "paid preparers"). E.g., tonight's meal is likely not
    served in any local establishment. So, our criteria are consistency
    of results and ease of preparation.]

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 16:16:13 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 8 Aug 2026 21:52:07 +0200, "Carlos E.R."
    <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:

    On 2026-08-08 20:14, Jan Panteltje wrote:
    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    No idea why that would be.

    Consumer induction hot plates operate between 25 - 50 KHz. You can
    see it on a spectrum analyzer or SDR (software defined radio)
    receiver:

    "Induction cooker interference" <https://www.sigidwiki.com/wiki/Induction_cooker_interference>

    Some induction cookers drop below 25 KHz, which can be heard by some
    children and people with unusually sensitive hearing:

    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming" <https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    Some people are allegedly "electrosensitive":

    "Electromagnetic hypersensitivity" <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_hypersensitivity>

    The problem seems to be sufficiently common to support an industry:

    "RF Protection Apparel" <https://www.emrss.com/collections/woremor-emf-5g-shielding-clothing>

    "EMF shielding clothing" <https://www.google.com/search?q=EMF+shielding+clothing&udm=2>

    "Tin foil hats:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=tin+foil+hats&udm=2>
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From joegwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 20:05:46 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 16:16:13 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Sat, 8 Aug 2026 21:52:07 +0200, "Carlos E.R."
    <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:

    On 2026-08-08 20:14, Jan Panteltje wrote:
    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    No idea why that would be.

    Consumer induction hot plates operate between 25 - 50 KHz. You can
    see it on a spectrum analyzer or SDR (software defined radio)
    receiver:

    "Induction cooker interference" ><https://www.sigidwiki.com/wiki/Induction_cooker_interference>

    Some induction cookers drop below 25 KHz, which can be heard by some
    children and people with unusually sensitive hearing:

    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming" ><https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    I bet that this is the reason. In my youth, I could hear 20 KHz. My
    wife still can.

    Back in Baltimore in the 1970s, there was a local big-box Drugstore
    that left their ultrasonic motion detector burglar alarm system on
    standby, and a girlfriend complained that the place made here
    depressed. I was skeptical, but agreed to go to that store. It
    depressed me too. Turned out we sensed the 26 KHz howl as pressure,
    and effect I had experienced in my own home lab. I went to the store
    manager, who was also skeptical, and I pointed out this could be
    costing them sales. Don't know what happened, but they turned the
    alarm system off during business hours, and the depression lifted.

    Joe



    Some people are allegedly "electrosensitive":

    "Electromagnetic hypersensitivity" ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_hypersensitivity>

    The problem seems to be sufficiently common to support an industry:

    "RF Protection Apparel" ><https://www.emrss.com/collections/woremor-emf-5g-shielding-clothing>

    "EMF shielding clothing" ><https://www.google.com/search?q=EMF+shielding+clothing&udm=2>

    "Tin foil hats:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=tin+foil+hats&udm=2>
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 17:29:25 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 20:05:46 -0400, joegwinn@comcast.net wrote:

    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 16:16:13 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Sat, 8 Aug 2026 21:52:07 +0200, "Carlos E.R."
    <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:

    On 2026-08-08 20:14, Jan Panteltje wrote:
    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    No idea why that would be.

    Consumer induction hot plates operate between 25 - 50 KHz. You can
    see it on a spectrum analyzer or SDR (software defined radio)
    receiver:

    "Induction cooker interference" >><https://www.sigidwiki.com/wiki/Induction_cooker_interference>

    Some induction cookers drop below 25 KHz, which can be heard by some >>children and people with unusually sensitive hearing:

    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming" >><https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    I bet that this is the reason. In my youth, I could hear 20 KHz. My
    wife still can.

    Back in Baltimore in the 1970s, there was a local big-box Drugstore
    that left their ultrasonic motion detector burglar alarm system on
    standby, and a girlfriend complained that the place made here
    depressed. I was skeptical, but agreed to go to that store. It
    depressed me too. Turned out we sensed the 26 KHz howl as pressure,
    and effect I had experienced in my own home lab. I went to the store >manager, who was also skeptical, and I pointed out this could be
    costing them sales. Don't know what happened, but they turned the
    alarm system off during business hours, and the depression lifted.

    Joe



    Some people are allegedly "electrosensitive":

    "Electromagnetic hypersensitivity" >><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_hypersensitivity>

    The problem seems to be sufficiently common to support an industry:

    "RF Protection Apparel" >><https://www.emrss.com/collections/woremor-emf-5g-shielding-clothing>

    "EMF shielding clothing" >><https://www.google.com/search?q=EMF+shielding+clothing&udm=2>

    "Tin foil hats:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=tin+foil+hats&udm=2>

    When I was a teenager I could hear 22 KHz. It felt like pressure.

    I could walk past a house with an open widow and hear the 15.7 KHz
    horizontal oscillator in their TV.

    I'm down to about 8 KHz now, but there's really not much going on
    above 8K.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Aug 8 17:53:16 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/8/2026 5:05 PM, joegwinn@comcast.net wrote:
    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming"
    <https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    I bet that this is the reason. In my youth, I could hear 20 KHz. My
    wife still can.

    Ditto. What's most annoying is you hear this annoying sound and,
    when you turn to complain about it to those STANDING NEXT TO YOU
    ("What's that godawful noise?"), they look at you like you're
    crazy!

    Back in Baltimore in the 1970s, there was a local big-box Drugstore
    that left their ultrasonic motion detector burglar alarm system on
    standby, and a girlfriend complained that the place made here
    depressed. I was skeptical, but agreed to go to that store. It
    depressed me too. Turned out we sensed the 26 KHz howl as pressure,
    and effect I had experienced in my own home lab. I went to the store manager, who was also skeptical, and I pointed out this could be
    costing them sales. Don't know what happened, but they turned the
    alarm system off during business hours, and the depression lifted.
    A colleague in school doubted my ability to hear these things.
    So, we played the "can you hear it now?" game (while he
    "randomly" decided whether to turn it on or off) and he
    was rid of his disbelief in short order.

    Now, hearing the flyback in a conventional TV is taxing for me. :<
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 07:39:06 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:10:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 06:44:43 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>wrote:

    The ony stupid thing is that you do not limit line lengh in your babble to >>>>about 80 characters.

    Set your newsreader to word wrap.

    Not all Usenet readers supoort that
    And it also means the original poopster eeeh poster is an idiot to use 1024 >>or more characters per line.
    Many posters here are obviously AI now and have no clue, or as much as their >>bosses.


    Google / duckduckgo.com search will confirm this:N++
    savetz.com
    https://www.savetz.com rC| yic rC| YIC05FI_15.html
    What should I know about Usenet "netiquette" before posting?
    If you are posting to one of the top-level hierarchies,
    your message will find its way to an audience of more than three million >>potential readers.
    Keep the your message at or under 72 characters per line.
    Not everyone uses the 80-column by 25-row text that you may be accustomed to, >>so shorter lines mean ...



    If it word wrapped as he typed it, as many programs do, he wouldn't
    add hard returns.

    Yes..

    Not sure I ever had that feature 'on' in my 'joe' editor (that I use to type this)
    The all-knowing ducduckgo tells me:
    Search Assist
    N++To enable or disable word wrap in JOE,
    you can use the command Control + T followed by W.
    This toggles the word wrap setting on or off while you are editing.

    Have to try it! lemme see:
    here I am formally asking, asking you to use word wrap the line gets long, longer, and even longer, longer and longer it gets no end to it so far, where will it go? to the Moon or Mars to infinity or where or were or what is beyond
    infinity?
    234 columns it says when it breaks the line,.
    Must be some default setting


    Search Assist
    To set the word wrap size in the JOE editor,
    you can adjust the right margin by using the command ^T R to set the desired column number for wrapping.
    Additionally, you can modify the -rmargin option in the joerc file to set a specific right margin for word wrap.

    Checking /etc/joe/joerc
    is set to 210:
    -rmargin 210 Right margin


    So just learned something, never used that or lines that long.
    At least not deliberately

    'joe' is a great editor in Linux, been using it since the early Linux days.

    All code I wrote it written with it.




    Where will it go? Voice input? LOL.
    Anyways

    Better set it to 77.
    Will I? Freedom !
    But can I?, yes.

    Anyways to go back, even when activating wordwrap on Usenet,
    you should set it to 77 or so too.

    But I have an other trick: when activating joe in NewsFleX to reply it starts a terminal with
    80 character width.
    But of course you can click to get a full screen terminal.

    So visual guide, and lines and characters per line is displayed on top like this:
    Row 84 Col 66

    Can call spell shaker (ispell) too on the text with ctrl L,
    insert files, what not.




    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 07:51:03 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response.

    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years. >>>Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace >>>the module) but very expensive.

    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    I was going to suggest that you could cut your wrists, but that would
    be in bad taste.

    I take daily aspirin on my doctor's orders. Envision lots of bleeding.

    She calls me John and I call her Sam. She wears miniskirts to work.

    Microwaves are OK,
    As long as the shielding is OK and you keep some distance.
    Have a nice detector for leakage.

    I suspect that a bit of leakage is not dangerous. Standing out in
    sunlight is probably worse.

    We had 'tropical' temperatures here a few days last week, some more predicted later this week.
    29.5 C indoors (no airco here) 32 C outdoors...
    Did some mowing of grass in the garden, was OK in the sun, wearing a hat. Things are very dry here, gras hardly grows due to lack of water.
    River water levels (Rhine river) are at an all time low.
    In Germany they are now allowing trucks on sundays as the water levels in the river are too low for the shipping.
    https://informedclearly.com/en/energy/59927/germany-sunday-truck-ban-rhine-drought-2026
    And we (Neterlands) are even downstream of that.
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 08:16:39 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 8 Aug 2026 21:52:07 +0200, "Carlos E.R."
    <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:

    On 2026-08-08 20:14, Jan Panteltje wrote:
    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    No idea why that would be.

    Consumer induction hot plates operate between 25 - 50 KHz. You can
    see it on a spectrum analyzer or SDR (software defined radio)
    receiver:

    "Induction cooker interference" ><https://www.sigidwiki.com/wiki/Induction_cooker_interference>

    Some induction cookers drop below 25 KHz, which can be heard by some
    children and people with unusually sensitive hearing:

    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming" ><https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    Some people are allegedly "electrosensitive":

    "Electromagnetic hypersensitivity" ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_hypersensitivity>

    The problem seems to be sufficiently common to support an industry:

    "RF Protection Apparel" ><https://www.emrss.com/collections/woremor-emf-5g-shielding-clothing>

    "EMF shielding clothing" ><https://www.google.com/search?q=EMF+shielding+clothing&udm=2>

    "Tin foil hats:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=tin+foil+hats&udm=2>

    Yea, tin foil hats are cool.
    It could be some ultrasonic effect.
    did a lot of high power ultrasonic stuff:
    https://panteltje.nl/pub/listening_to_ultrasonics_IMG_5145.JPG
    and at some point I had some balance problem from building noise + the ultrasonics.

    Had to do a special excercise to fix it (took a few days before I could use a bike again).
    What happens is that some of that bone structure in your inner ear that senses balance breaks or is damaged or loosened,
    making specific moves fixes it again.

    I have been close too (and am radio ham too) high power RF transmissions all my life.
    Broadcasting also emits many kilowatts, it but it never bothered me.
    I do not like cellphones close to my head, neither do I like those RF bluetooth earplugs.

    Nice big Sennheiser HD201 headphones are good, also for playing the keyboard without freaking everybody else out :-)
    https://www.whathifi.com/sennheiser/hd-201/review
    keeps out external noises too.
    Lots of F35 noise making planes here, am close to a mil airport.
    Oh and radar pulses maing ticks in some equipment:
    https://panteltje.nl/pub/radar_bandwidth.gif

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 18:24:43 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 9/08/2026 6:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 9 Aug 2026 02:12:49 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 8/08/2026 11:49 pm, john larkin wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 07:56:13 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Aug 2026 06:54:22 -0700, john larkin <jl@htigct.com> wrote: >>>>
    On Thu, 6 Aug 2026 09:43:09 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org> >>>>> wrote:

    On 6/08/2026 6:48 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 18:09:59 -0700, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> >>>>>>> wrote:

    <snip>


    Most of the old electric ranges that I've seen have at least one
    broken heater element. Temperature cycling to read heat is stressful.

    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    My younger brother has one - actually a double-width induction cook-top
    on top of a double oven. He was pretty well off even before he got the
    job of organising the Sydney Olympic Games in 2000, and his wife likes
    entertaining (and they have five kids and thirteen grand-kids to
    entertain these day)s.

    I used it for a couple of weeks when I house sat there while he was away
    and my wife was running a course at one of the Sydney Universities. It
    worked fine then - I found it very easy to use - and it was still
    working fine the last time I had dinner in his house - less than a year ago. >>
    Perhaps a bit out of your reach, but nice if you have that kind of money.

    I could buy 1000 of them, but I don't want one. It will be dead in 10
    years and probably un-repairable.

    My younger brother' example has lasted twenty ears so far. The parts
    that might fail are the high frequency switches, and they should be replaceable. You can claim to be able to afford one, but some people do
    find the price discouragingly high - and others prefer to spend the
    money on Audi cars.

    Don't they need special cookware?

    The cookware gets heated by the currents induced in it by the cook-top. Anything metallic works, but stuff designed for the job works better.

    A gas flame is great for cooking.

    And the gas it burns can accumulate unburnt and blow up your house. It
    doesn't happen often, but it does happen.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 08:28:11 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>wrote:
    On 8/8/2026 5:05 PM, joegwinn@comcast.net wrote:
    "My new Wolf induction cook top is unusable because of the
    high-frequency screaming"
    <https://www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/128lc8u/my_new_wolf_induction_cooktop_is_unusable_because/>
    (Click on "read more").

    I bet that this is the reason. In my youth, I could hear 20 KHz. My
    wife still can.

    Ditto. What's most annoying is you hear this annoying sound and,
    when you turn to complain about it to those STANDING NEXT TO YOU
    ("What's that godawful noise?"), they look at you like you're
    crazy!

    Back in Baltimore in the 1970s, there was a local big-box Drugstore
    that left their ultrasonic motion detector burglar alarm system on
    standby, and a girlfriend complained that the place made here
    depressed. I was skeptical, but agreed to go to that store. It
    depressed me too. Turned out we sensed the 26 KHz howl as pressure,
    and effect I had experienced in my own home lab. I went to the store
    manager, who was also skeptical, and I pointed out this could be
    costing them sales. Don't know what happened, but they turned the
    alarm system off during business hours, and the depression lifted.
    A colleague in school doubted my ability to hear these things.
    So, we played the "can you hear it now?" game (while he
    "randomly" decided whether to turn it on or off) and he
    was rid of his disbelief in short order.

    Now, hearing the flyback in a conventional TV is taxing for me. :<

    In the studios where I worked I could hear if the 15625 Hz
    horizontal sound coming from a monitor was not in sync..
    Bu then that was among many other ones that were in sycn.
    Difference ..

    I do not have what they call 'absolute pitch' hearing
    but sometimes I wonder..
    I can at night hear a different tone for every moving awake lifeform.
    Can tell you how many people are moving about.
    Great in the wild survival.
    Yea did that too.
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From liz@liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham) to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 11:03:36 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 8/8/2026 1:01 PM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    [...]
    My previous gas cooker, actually my mother's, had a slider to adjust a thermostat on the oven, going from 1 to 9.

    "A knob by any other name..." :< I dislike the imprecision. My
    recipes are very explicit: this temperature for this length of time,
    etc.

    Current stovetop relies on knobs for settings. So, "about a 3-and-a-half"
    is as close as I can specify to the desired temperature.

    A lot depends on the positioning of the sensor and the food to be
    cooked. Many of the old recipes for gas cookery specified the top,
    middle or bottom of the oven. Even in my electric oven there is a big difference in the way things cook in different positions and how long
    the element is on and red hot during the cooking time.

    The shorter wavelength radiant heat from a red-hot element will brown
    the surface differently from longer wavelength and there is an unwanted positive feedback mechanism: as the surface changes colour, it absorbs
    more heat and browns even faster. In bread toasters, where the element
    is visibly red hot, this effect makes them much more difficult to
    control.
    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 04:03:50 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/9/2026 3:03 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 8/8/2026 1:01 PM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    [...]
    My previous gas cooker, actually my mother's, had a slider to adjust a
    thermostat on the oven, going from 1 to 9.

    "A knob by any other name..." :< I dislike the imprecision. My
    recipes are very explicit: this temperature for this length of time,
    etc.

    Current stovetop relies on knobs for settings. So, "about a 3-and-a-half" >> is as close as I can specify to the desired temperature.

    A lot depends on the positioning of the sensor and the food to be

    As well as the cooking mode. E.g., convection tends to circulate the
    heat for more even cooking.

    [If I were to rewrite the code for the oven, I would provide
    independant control of the convection fans without their
    accompanying heating elements]

    cooked. Many of the old recipes for gas cookery specified the top,
    middle or bottom of the oven. Even in my electric oven there is a big difference in the way things cook in different positions and how long
    the element is on and red hot during the cooking time.

    Some US ovens (from my limited observations) identify the
    positions of the rack with a letter code: A - D. The position
    selected determines the amount of "clearance" above (for the item
    being cooked) as well as its proximity to the heat sourced from below
    as well as above and behind.

    I specify, on my recipes, where the rack(s) is expected to be located,
    which oven, the type of cooking process, temperature and time. The
    oven is almost invariably "preheated".

    Plus additional notes that may be appropriate (e.g., how to cool the
    item down when cooking is complete). For example, one common recipe
    says: "Do this for 37 minutes; then THIS for 16; then this for 4"
    instead of "Do this for 57 (37+16+4)"

    I will insist on the second half of a bake cycle take place with
    some "barrier" beneath (e.g., the next sheet of cookies), even if
    there is no *need* for it (e.g., when the last sheet is being baked).

    An "old habit" when baking cookies has been to rotate the cookie
    sheet 180 degrees in an attempt to even out the front-to-back
    variations in the oven's temperature distribution. It's such
    an ingrained behavior that I have no idea if it has any current
    value! :<

    This assumes you know how YOUR oven cooks, how true to setpoint it is,
    etc. People with "knobs" that indicate temperature obviously are
    just "in the ballpark".

    The shorter wavelength radiant heat from a red-hot element will brown
    the surface differently from longer wavelength and there is an unwanted positive feedback mechanism: as the surface changes colour, it absorbs
    more heat and browns even faster. In bread toasters, where the element
    is visibly red hot, this effect makes them much more difficult to
    control.


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carlos E.R.@robin_listas@es.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 15:38:10 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-08-09 13:03, Don Y wrote:
    This assumes you know how YOUR oven cooks, how true to setpoint it is,
    etc.-a People with "knobs" that indicate temperature obviously are
    just "in the ballpark".

    I have an electronic thermometer; the sensor is probably a termopar,
    which can be positioned inside the oven.

    For instance, to cook potatoes, I put one sensor in the tray, and with
    the other I pierce the potato. When the temp inside the potato reaches
    100-#C, I power off the oven.

    I have forgotten the oven temp, but with this method it doesn't matter much.
    --
    Cheers, Carlos.
    ESEfc-Efc+, EUEfc-Efc|;
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 07:57:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:
    I wonder how reliable the induction gadgets are. I sure don't want
    one.

    Expensive to buy, but cheap to run. Very nice to use, instant response. >>>>
    My previous one died (one ring out of two died) after about 10 years. >>>>Not a very reliable brand, they told me. Repair was possible (replace >>>>the module) but very expensive.

    I have an inductive heater plate for cooking.
    Stopped using it as it gave me a headache every time
    Maybe I have too much iron in me?


    I was going to suggest that you could cut your wrists, but that would
    be in bad taste.

    I take daily aspirin on my doctor's orders. Envision lots of bleeding.

    She calls me John and I call her Sam. She wears miniskirts to work.

    Microwaves are OK,
    As long as the shielding is OK and you keep some distance.
    Have a nice detector for leakage.

    I suspect that a bit of leakage is not dangerous. Standing out in
    sunlight is probably worse.

    We had 'tropical' temperatures here a few days last week, some more predicted later this week.
    29.5 C indoors (no airco here) 32 C outdoors...
    Did some mowing of grass in the garden, was OK in the sun, wearing a hat. >Things are very dry here, gras hardly grows due to lack of water.
    River water levels (Rhine river) are at an all time low.
    In Germany they are now allowing trucks on sundays as the water levels in the river are too low for the shipping.
    https://informedclearly.com/en/energy/59927/germany-sunday-truck-ban-rhine-drought-2026
    And we (Neterlands) are even downstream of that.

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it
    peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.



    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 01:11:31 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 10/08/2026 12:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:

    <snip>

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it
    peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.

    John Larkin confuses weather with climate and imagines that because
    weather is unpredictable, climate - as the average of weather - is also unpredictable. It's an intellectual failure, and one that his vanity
    doesn't let him recognise.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 09:50:17 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/9/2026 6:38 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2026-08-09 13:03, Don Y wrote:
    This assumes you know how YOUR oven cooks, how true to setpoint it is,
    etc.-a People with "knobs" that indicate temperature obviously are
    just "in the ballpark".

    I have an electronic thermometer; the sensor is probably a termopar, which can
    be positioned inside the oven.

    For instance, to cook potatoes, I put one sensor in the tray, and with the other I pierce the potato. When the temp inside the potato reaches 100-#C, I power off the oven.

    I have forgotten the oven temp, but with this method it doesn't matter much.

    Yes, our oven supports such a probe -- as does the microwave oven.
    I can't recall ever using it.

    Most people just "set" the intended temperature of the oven
    interior and adjust their recipes accordingly. A recipe
    would call for a "350F oven" or a "400F oven" or a "slow"
    oven, etc. These being settings one could command from the
    markings on whatever control "knob" was available. The
    oven would use its sensor to drive the interior to
    that nominal temperature.

    E.g., I'd not insert the probe in *a* cookie to verify the internal
    temperature of THAT cookie. Or, a cake.

    [I believe it is intended primarily for large pieces
    of meat -- a pork shoulder, beef roast, etc.]

    But, ovens vary. The markings on one "knob" are only suggestive
    of the internal temperature attained and will vary with the
    same make/model oven elsewhere. Hence, "know your oven"

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jeroen Belleman@jeroen@nospam.please to sci.electronics.design on Sun Aug 9 19:20:59 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/9/26 17:11, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 10/08/2026 12:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>> wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:

    <snip>

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it
    peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.

    John Larkin confuses weather with climate and imagines that because
    weather is unpredictable, climate - as the average of weather - is also unpredictable. It's an intellectual failure, and one that his vanity
    doesn't let him recognise.


    When does 'weather' become 'climate'? Apart from some trivial
    periodic phenomena, it's noisy at all time scales. Probably 1/f,
    but I have yet to find a dataset that makes this obvious.

    Identifying trends in noisy data is fraught with pitfalls.

    Jeroen Belleman
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 16:31:11 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 10/08/2026 3:20 am, Jeroen Belleman wrote:
    On 8/9/26 17:11, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 10/08/2026 12:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>>> wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:

    <snip>

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it >>> peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.

    John Larkin confuses weather with climate and imagines that because
    weather is unpredictable, climate - as the average of weather - is
    also unpredictable. It's an intellectual failure, and one that his
    vanity doesn't let him recognise.


    When does 'weather' become 'climate'?

    When it grows crops.

    Apart from some trivial periodic phenomena, it's noisy at all time scales. Probably 1/f,
    but I have yet to find a dataset that makes this obvious.

    Weather is periodic over periods counted in years.

    It is reliably cold for most of winter and warm for most of summer. This
    may be a trivial periodic phenomenon, but farming relies on it.

    Identifying trends in noisy data is fraught with pitfalls.
    Starvation is a pretty serious pitfall, but it is the sort of thing that
    can happen if you ignore the wrong trivial periodic phenomena.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Simon Simple@nothanks@nottoday.co.uk to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 14:18:32 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 08/08/2026 21:57, john larkin wrote:

    <xxxx>

    Don't [induction hobs] need special cookware?

    A gas flame is great for cooking.

    I do nearly all the cooking.

    We've had electric with spiral elements, electric with flat elements,
    gas and induction. Also have used halogen.

    At the moment it's gas, because we recently moved and that's what is
    here for now. As soon as I get the chance, the gas is scrap and we're
    going back to induction.

    Very easy cleaning. Very low power possible - useful for dry frying
    onions for example. Very high power possible - much quicker than gas to
    bring a pot of water to the boil. The top only gets hot through contact
    with a hot pan. No wasted heat up the side of the pot heating the
    handles. No fumes or condensation. Undoubtedly safer.

    The cookware isn't 'special' nowadays, but there will be some old pots
    and pans you can't use. Also, because the coupling seems to be different
    for different pans, it can be harder to judge how far to turn the knob.
    I have a small two-egg omelette (US: Homeopathic omelette) pan which
    needs a surprisingly high setting. Just a question of getting used to it.

    While gas is cheaper than electricity, I would guess that the lack of
    wasted heat compensates for that. The cost for a reasonable quality
    induction hob isn't that much different. On balance, induction hobs are
    not perfect, but are very much better than the alternatives.
    --
    SS
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Simon Simple@nothanks@nottoday.co.uk to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 14:24:35 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 08/08/2026 15:17, Don Y wrote:
    <xxxx>> Our furnace uses a hot plate igniter (previous one used a spark igniter).
    Temperature sensors then verify the gas is ignited (by sensing the heat)
    and allow the gas flow to continue.
    I believe the sensor is a thermocouple which generates enough power to
    hold a solenoid gas valve open against a light spring. You need to
    manually open the valve and wait till the thermocouple is hot enough to provide the holding current.
    --
    SS

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 07:53:08 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Mon, 10 Aug 2026 16:31:11 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 10/08/2026 3:20 am, Jeroen Belleman wrote:
    On 8/9/26 17:11, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 10/08/2026 12:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
    wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>>>> wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:

    <snip>

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it >>>> peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.

    John Larkin confuses weather with climate and imagines that because
    weather is unpredictable, climate - as the average of weather - is
    also unpredictable. It's an intellectual failure, and one that his
    vanity doesn't let him recognise.


    When does 'weather' become 'climate'?

    When it grows crops.

    Apart from some trivial periodic phenomena, it's noisy at all time scales. Probably 1/f,
    but I have yet to find a dataset that makes this obvious.

    Weather is periodic over periods counted in years.

    It is reliably cold for most of winter and warm for most of summer. This
    may be a trivial periodic phenomenon, but farming relies on it.

    Identifying trends in noisy data is fraught with pitfalls.
    Starvation is a pretty serious pitfall, but it is the sort of thing that
    can happen if you ignore the wrong trivial periodic phenomena.

    Crop yields are up enormously in recent decades. Thank

    Fertilizers, mostly derived from oil and gas

    Farm machinery and transport, using diesel

    Irrigation, diesel

    Insecticides and weed killers, mostly derived from petrochemicals

    Increased CO2, partly from burning fossil fuels

    Warm weather, mostly natural from the ending of the LIA.


    https://ourworldindata.org/food-supply

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Martin Brown@'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 16:10:54 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 08/08/2026 08:47, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2026-08-06 01:43, Bill Sloman wrote:

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and
    you can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    Major problem with that one was the shoddy prefab construction technique
    that allowed it to collapse spectacularly like a deck of cards.

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    Why didn't she smell the gas?

    Some older people can't smell it at all! Slow build up of gas overnight
    also saturates the sense of smell so that you are unaware after a while.

    Mains gas explosions happen more often than you might think - this
    recent UK one particularly spectacular (caught on doorcam video).

    https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/videos/c78gx85e05go
    --
    Martin Brown

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Tue Aug 11 02:08:23 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 11/08/2026 12:53 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Mon, 10 Aug 2026 16:31:11 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 10/08/2026 3:20 am, Jeroen Belleman wrote:
    On 8/9/26 17:11, Bill Sloman wrote:
    On 10/08/2026 12:57 am, john larkin wrote:
    On Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:51:03 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>>> wrote:

    john larkin <jl@htigct.com>wrote:
    On Sat, 08 Aug 2026 18:14:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>>>>>> wrote:

    "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>wrote:
    On 2026-08-08 15:49, john larkin wrote:

    <snip>

    We are in Truckee at 6400 feet, and we expected it to be cool, but it >>>>> peaks in the high 80's F. Yikes. At least the humidity is low.

    It does get cool at night, low 50's, so we can open the windows at
    night and cool off the cabin.

    People claim that it can snow any day of the year here. I wish it
    would.

    I did ski on the 4th of July here once.

    We were having lunch outside one Memorial Day, last Monday in May,
    looking at people golfing, and we had a flash blizzard.

    John Larkin confuses weather with climate and imagines that because
    weather is unpredictable, climate - as the average of weather - is
    also unpredictable. It's an intellectual failure, and one that his
    vanity doesn't let him recognise.


    When does 'weather' become 'climate'?

    When it grows crops.

    Apart from some trivial periodic phenomena, it's noisy at all time scales. Probably 1/f,
    but I have yet to find a dataset that makes this obvious.

    Weather is periodic over periods counted in years.

    It is reliably cold for most of winter and warm for most of summer. This
    may be a trivial periodic phenomenon, but farming relies on it.

    Identifying trends in noisy data is fraught with pitfalls.
    Starvation is a pretty serious pitfall, but it is the sort of thing that
    can happen if you ignore the wrong trivial periodic phenomena.

    Crop yields are up enormously in recent decades. Thank

    Fertilizers, mostly derived from oil and gas

    Nitrogen (mostly as urea) and phosphates. Oil and gas may be energy
    sources used now to produce them, but electric power works just as well

    Farm machinery and transport, using diesel.

    But batteries would work just as well.

    Irrigation, diesel

    Irrigation is pumps and you can power them any way that suits your.
    Diesel is just fuel.

    Insecticides and weed killers, mostly derived from petrochemicals.

    But you don't have to burn the petrochemicals and turn them into
    atmospheric CO2 to get insecticides and weed killers. The process of
    producing them does use power , but electric power works just as well as
    any other kind (and better than most).

    The first artificial nitrogen fertilisers were make with electric arcs
    which got the nitrogen in regular air hot enough to form nitric oxides.

    It was a shockingly inefficient process, and eventually fell out of favour

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_production

    Natural gas is used the processes that are currently the cheapest (and
    the most popular) ways got getting amonia, but they wouldn't be if they
    had to pay to get rid of the CO2 produced

    Increased CO2, partly from burning fossil fuels.

    It helps, if the plants are getting enough water and sunlight and the
    other - less important - nutrients they need. Plants grown in a higher
    C02 atmosphere reliably have fewer stomata in their leaves than those
    grown in lower CO2 atmosphere - they can get us much CO2 as they need
    (which is readily available) while losing less water (which often
    isn't). Fossillised leaves show that this has been true for some 100
    million odd years now.
    Warm weather, mostly natural from the ending of the LIA.

    The little ice age was a north atlantic event, not a planet wide event.
    https://ourworldindata.org/food-supply

    The statistics are real enough, but they don't mean what the climate
    change denial machine would like you to think they mean.
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bill Sloman@bill.sloman@ieee.org to sci.electronics.design on Tue Aug 11 02:39:17 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 11/08/2026 1:10 am, Martin Brown wrote:
    On 08/08/2026 08:47, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2026-08-06 01:43, Bill Sloman wrote:

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and
    you can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    Major problem with that one was the shoddy prefab construction technique that allowed it to collapse spectacularly like a deck of cards.

    It was widely recognised as "shoddy" after the Ronan Point partial
    collapse. It had been used for some years on lower - up to six storey - apartment blocks,and hadn't seen as shoddy there. When Ronan Point was
    finally pulled down, it did turn out that the prefab structure hadn't
    been put together as carefully as if should have been.

    "It was discovered that most of the mechanical connections between floor
    slabs and flank walls had not been attached properly during
    construction. Significant corner-cutting had also been undertaken during
    the construction, with bolts often missing. Holes that should have been
    filled with concrete were found stuffed with rubbish and newspaper."

    It wasn't so much that the prefab construction technique was shoddy, as
    that Ronan Point had been put together by cowboy builders. England has
    never been short of them -

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ragged-Trousered_Philanthropists

    dates from 1910, but wasn't published until 1914 and then only in a
    cut-down version. The original text didn't get published until 1955.

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    Why didn't she smell the gas?

    Some older people can't smell it at all! Slow build up of gas overnight
    also saturates the sense of smell so that you are unaware after a while.

    I can vouch for that.
    Mains gas explosions happen more often than you might think - this
    recent UK one particularly spectacular (caught on doorcam video).

    https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/videos/c78gx85e05go
    --
    Bill Sloman, Sydney


    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From liz@liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham) to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 18:03:50 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Simon Simple <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:
    [...]
    We've had electric with spiral elements, electric with flat elements,
    gas and induction. Also have used halogen.

    All last week I cooked on a single-burner pressure stove running on
    diesel - the food tasted just as good as usual.
    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 11:11:14 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/10/2026 6:24 AM, Simon Simple wrote:
    On 08/08/2026 15:17, Don Y wrote:
    <xxxx>> Our furnace uses a hot plate igniter (previous one used a spark igniter).
    Temperature sensors then verify the gas is ignited (by sensing the heat)
    and allow the gas flow to continue.
    I believe the sensor is a thermocouple which generates enough power to hold a
    solenoid gas valve open against a light spring. You need to manually open the
    valve and wait till the thermocouple is hot enough to provide the holding current.

    Ours appeared to have been a "potted" bimetal strip. They
    (there were three or four of them) didn't "talk" to
    the control board but, rather, to the gas valve.

    E.g., I think the controller bypassed them for a short
    period of time -- to allow them to heat up -- then let them
    maintain the circuit to the gas valve.

    It was puzzling to (visually) diagnose as there *was* a flame.
    But, obviously, not a hot enough flame!

    [The plumbers, in town, made a fortune visiting homes
    "just in case" only to tell the residents "the gas supply to the
    town is below what it needs to be. How will you be paying for our
    visit?"]
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 11:17:51 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Mon, 10 Aug 2026 14:24:35 +0100, Simon Simple
    <nothanks@nottoday.co.uk> wrote:

    On 08/08/2026 15:17, Don Y wrote:
    <xxxx>> Our furnace uses a hot plate igniter (previous one used a spark >igniter).
    Temperature sensors then verify the gas is ignited (by sensing the heat)
    and allow the gas flow to continue.
    I believe the sensor is a thermocouple which generates enough power to
    hold a solenoid gas valve open against a light spring. You need to
    manually open the valve and wait till the thermocouple is hot enough to >provide the holding current.

    Newer gadgets have microprocessors and fancier sensors and of course
    many internal states.

    Like the infamous water-heater Honeywell Frankenstat.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 11:35:26 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 11 Aug 2026 02:39:17 +1000, Bill Sloman <bill.sloman@ieee.org>
    wrote:

    On 11/08/2026 1:10 am, Martin Brown wrote:
    On 08/08/2026 08:47, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2026-08-06 01:43, Bill Sloman wrote:

    Have that happen somewhere well up a multi-apartment tower block and
    you can kill a few people. It has happened.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronan_Point

    Major problem with that one was the shoddy prefab construction technique
    that allowed it to collapse spectacularly like a deck of cards.

    It was widely recognised as "shoddy" after the Ronan Point partial
    collapse. It had been used for some years on lower - up to six storey - >apartment blocks,and hadn't seen as shoddy there. When Ronan Point was >finally pulled down, it did turn out that the prefab structure hadn't
    been put together as carefully as if should have been.

    "It was discovered that most of the mechanical connections between floor >slabs and flank walls had not been attached properly during
    construction. Significant corner-cutting had also been undertaken during
    the construction, with bolts often missing. Holes that should have been >filled with concrete were found stuffed with rubbish and newspaper."

    It wasn't so much that the prefab construction technique was shoddy, as
    that Ronan Point had been put together by cowboy builders. England has
    never been short of them -

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ragged-Trousered_Philanthropists

    dates from 1910, but wasn't published until 1914 and then only in a
    cut-down version. The original text didn't get published until 1955.

    When Ivy Hodge lit her match she ignited more gas than she expected.

    Why didn't she smell the gas?

    Some older people can't smell it at all! Slow build up of gas overnight
    also saturates the sense of smell so that you are unaware after a while.

    I can vouch for that.
    Mains gas explosions happen more often than you might think - this
    recent UK one particularly spectacular (caught on doorcam video).

    https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/videos/c78gx85e05go

    What British food XXXX could we use to be the equivalent to tofu-dreg?

    XXXX = Marmite?

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Carl@carl.ijamesXX@YYverizon.net to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 15:34:54 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/10/26 9:18 AM, Simon Simple wrote:
    On 08/08/2026 21:57, john larkin wrote:

    <xxxx>

    Don't [induction hobs] need special cookware?

    A gas flame is great for cooking.

    I do nearly all the cooking.

    We've had electric with spiral elements, electric with flat elements,
    gas and induction. Also have used halogen.

    At the moment it's gas, because we recently moved and that's what is
    here for now. As soon as I get the chance, the gas is scrap and we're
    going back to induction.

    Very easy cleaning. Very low power possible - useful for dry frying
    onions for example. Very high power possible - much quicker than gas to bring a pot of water to the boil. The top only gets hot through contact
    with a hot pan. No wasted heat up the side of the pot heating the
    handles. No fumes or condensation. Undoubtedly safer.

    The cookware isn't 'special' nowadays, but there will be some old pots
    and pans you can't use. Also, because the coupling seems to be different
    for different pans, it can be harder to judge how far to turn the knob.
    I have a small two-egg omelette (US: Homeopathic omelette) pan which
    needs a surprisingly high setting. Just a question of getting used to it.

    While gas is cheaper than electricity, I would guess that the lack of
    wasted heat compensates for that. The cost for a reasonable quality induction hob isn't that much different. On balance, induction hobs are
    not perfect, but are very much better than the alternatives.


    I've never used an induction cooktop but the only two negatives I've
    noticed while researching them to be prepared for when my 50 year old
    gas stove dies are the cost and the coil size, which are actually two
    sides of the same coin. They are getting cheaper but are still the most expensive to purchase, and I have hopes for more economies of scale
    before I'm forced to purchase one :-). Biggest con is that to keep the
    cost down most cooktops have coils sized for smaller pans and skillets
    so you get uneven heating with larger cookware, such as a cool outer
    inch or more in a 12" skillet or Dutch oven. Makes browning lots of
    chunks of stew meat or caramelizing several chopped onions evenly more
    finicky than it should be. Units with bigger coils are available but
    seem to cost 50+% more.

    The cookware test is "if a magnet sticks to the pan it will work".
    --
    Regards,
    Carl
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 13:09:56 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 8/10/2026 12:34 PM, Carl wrote:
    I've never used an induction cooktop but the only two negatives I've noticed while researching them to be prepared for when my 50 year old gas stove dies are the cost and the coil size, which are actually two sides of the same coin.
    They are getting cheaper but are still the most expensive to purchase, and I have hopes for more economies of scale before I'm forced to purchase one :-).
    Biggest con is that to keep the cost down most cooktops have coils sized for smaller pans and skillets so you get uneven heating with larger cookware, such
    as a cool outer inch or more in a 12" skillet or Dutch oven.

    Our electric cooktop has "burners" subsets of which can be used based
    on the size of the pot. E.g., the largest is 11.5" (for a 12" pot as
    the contact surface of same is really only 11.5"), 9.5" (for a 10" pot),
    8.5" and 6". The heating element is essentially continuous over that
    entire surface -- excepting a 1.5" dia region in the very center
    (perhaps if you wanted to center an egg poaching pan?)

    Makes browning
    lots of chunks of stew meat or caramelizing several chopped onions evenly more
    finicky than it should be.

    My complaint (with gas) was that you couldn't get the heat LOW enough
    AND widespread to let something simmer, evenly, for long periods of
    time (without BURNING one portion)

    Units with bigger coils are available but seem to
    cost 50+% more.

    I've found it nice that I know the entire surface comes to the same
    temperature at the same time -- no need to preheat pans, no hot
    spots (or cool spots), etc. I can get the *entire* pan as hot (or
    as "warm") as desired.

    I routinely melt chocolate in a frying pan (no double boiler)
    without worrying about it burning *or* cooling based on its
    location in the pan. (chocolate gets a funny texture when heated
    and cooled repeatedly -- melt it and then use it!)

    To remove the heat quickly, I have to resort to lifting the pan
    from the cooking surface as that remains hot for some time after
    powered down (something that wouldn't happen with induction -- but,
    you're still stuck with the heat stored in the pan!)

    [I'd like a device that would quickly let me CHILL large
    masses (refrigerator is way to inefficient at doing so).
    Presently, I fill the sink with ice and put those items I
    want to rapidly cool *in* that bath to expedite the cooling
    (to discourage the growth of harmful critters)]

    The cookware test is "if a magnet sticks to the pan it will work".

    Yeah, so "no" to glass/ceramic, copper, aluminum clad (?), etc.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@htigct.com to sci.electronics.design on Mon Aug 10 14:43:17 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Mon, 10 Aug 2026 13:09:56 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 8/10/2026 12:34 PM, Carl wrote:
    I've never used an induction cooktop but the only two negatives I've noticed
    while researching them to be prepared for when my 50 year old gas stove dies
    are the cost and the coil size, which are actually two sides of the same coin.
    They are getting cheaper but are still the most expensive to purchase, and I
    have hopes for more economies of scale before I'm forced to purchase one :-).
    Biggest con is that to keep the cost down most cooktops have coils sized for
    smaller pans and skillets so you get uneven heating with larger cookware, such
    as a cool outer inch or more in a 12" skillet or Dutch oven.

    Our electric cooktop has "burners" subsets of which can be used based
    on the size of the pot. E.g., the largest is 11.5" (for a 12" pot as
    the contact surface of same is really only 11.5"), 9.5" (for a 10" pot),
    8.5" and 6". The heating element is essentially continuous over that
    entire surface -- excepting a 1.5" dia region in the very center
    (perhaps if you wanted to center an egg poaching pan?)

    Makes browning
    lots of chunks of stew meat or caramelizing several chopped onions evenly more
    finicky than it should be.

    My complaint (with gas) was that you couldn't get the heat LOW enough
    AND widespread to let something simmer, evenly, for long periods of
    time (without BURNING one portion)

    Units with bigger coils are available but seem to
    cost 50+% more.

    I've found it nice that I know the entire surface comes to the same >temperature at the same time -- no need to preheat pans, no hot
    spots (or cool spots), etc. I can get the *entire* pan as hot (or
    as "warm") as desired.

    I routinely melt chocolate in a frying pan (no double boiler)
    without worrying about it burning *or* cooling based on its
    location in the pan. (chocolate gets a funny texture when heated
    and cooled repeatedly -- melt it and then use it!)

    To remove the heat quickly, I have to resort to lifting the pan
    from the cooking surface as that remains hot for some time after
    powered down (something that wouldn't happen with induction -- but,
    you're still stuck with the heat stored in the pan!)

    [I'd like a device that would quickly let me CHILL large
    masses (refrigerator is way to inefficient at doing so).
    Presently, I fill the sink with ice and put those items I
    want to rapidly cool *in* that bath to expedite the cooling
    (to discourage the growth of harmful critters)]

    The cookware test is "if a magnet sticks to the pan it will work".

    Yeah, so "no" to glass/ceramic, copper, aluminum clad (?), etc.

    You could make a small loop and explore the field with an
    oscilloscope.

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jan Panteltje@alien@comet.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Tue Aug 11 06:27:02 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid>wrote:
    On 8/10/2026 12:34 PM, Carl wrote:
    I've never used an induction cooktop but the only two negatives I've noticed
    while researching them to be prepared for when my 50 year old gas stove dies
    are the cost and the coil size, which are actually two sides of the same coin.
    They are getting cheaper but are still the most expensive to purchase, and I
    have hopes for more economies of scale before I'm forced to purchase one :-).
    Biggest con is that to keep the cost down most cooktops have coils sized for
    smaller pans and skillets so you get uneven heating with larger cookware, such
    as a cool outer inch or more in a 12" skillet or Dutch oven.

    Our electric cooktop has "burners" subsets of which can be used based
    on the size of the pot. E.g., the largest is 11.5" (for a 12" pot as
    the contact surface of same is really only 11.5"), 9.5" (for a 10" pot),
    8.5" and 6". The heating element is essentially continuous over that
    entire surface -- excepting a 1.5" dia region in the very center
    (perhaps if you wanted to center an egg poaching pan?)

    Makes browning
    lots of chunks of stew meat or caramelizing several chopped onions evenly more
    finicky than it should be.

    My complaint (with gas) was that you couldn't get the heat LOW enough
    AND widespread to let something simmer, evenly, for long periods of
    time (without BURNING one portion)

    Units with bigger coils are available but seem to
    cost 50+% more.

    I've found it nice that I know the entire surface comes to the same >temperature at the same time -- no need to preheat pans, no hot
    spots (or cool spots), etc. I can get the *entire* pan as hot (or
    as "warm") as desired.

    I routinely melt chocolate in a frying pan (no double boiler)
    without worrying about it burning *or* cooling based on its
    location in the pan. (chocolate gets a funny texture when heated
    and cooled repeatedly -- melt it and then use it!)

    What also seems to work is put a small metal dish in the microwave.
    It will get very hot very quickly, and stuff it it will melt.
    Watch the dish, hands on the stop-button!
    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2