From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

I want to build up the cutting edges on the blades on my brush hog , they're worn and the bottom side is no longer flat . I found some
hardfacing rod for a reasonable price that's for "moderate abrasion and
low impact application" . The blades are supposed to be around 38-42
hardness , the rod is around 52-58 , I assume the variability is due to
mixing with the base material . I have on hand ER70 and 308 , 309 , and
312 TIG filler and ER70 and 308/309 MIG wire . If one of the selections
I have on hand will be better than the hardfacing I can save a few bucks
... I also have 6011 , 6013 , and 7018 electrodes .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:118fc4r$10el$1@dont-email.me...

I want to build up the cutting edges on the blades on my brush hog ,
they're worn and the bottom side is no longer flat . I found some
hardfacing rod for a reasonable price that's for "moderate abrasion and
low impact application" . The blades are supposed to be around 38-42
hardness , the rod is around 52-58 , I assume the variability is due to
mixing with the base material . I have on hand ER70 and 308 , 309 , and
312 TIG filler and ER70 and 308/309 MIG wire . If one of the selections
I have on hand will be better than the hardfacing I can save a few bucks
... I also have 6011 , 6013 , and 7018 electrodes .
Snag

----------------------------------------

Hatchets, axes and the bandsaw blades for my sawmill are soft enough to sharpen with a file, and dent instead of chip on a rock. My uncle used a splitting maul to remove a lump from Grandma's granite front step. They
lived within sight of the quarry and rejects were available for free. When I inherited it I built up and sharpened the missing edge with (IIRC) the ER70
in my MIG and it's held up well to the mild duty of splitting oak firewood.

Does anyone have experience with Rivnuts? I bought the Hardell tool and stainless rivnuts to attach 18ga galvanized repair panels to originally
closed car frame box channels that had rusted out on the lower edge. Welding would burn off interior rust inhibitor. https://www.amazon.com/HARDELL-Rivnut-Metric-Mandrels-Carrying/dp/B0CBKFV533/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?

I tested one to destruction with a 1/4-20 Gr2 bolt. Tightening beyond what
the installation tool did further compressed the rivnut bulge at constant torque without making it rotate, after it bottomed out the bolt head sheared off. The threaded end still unscrewed easily. I think that may be a good enough qualification.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 9/17/2026 4:48 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag"-a wrote in message news:118fc4r$10el$1@dont-email.me...

-a I want to build up the cutting edges on the blades on my brush hog , they're worn and the bottom side is no longer flat . I found some
hardfacing rod for a reasonable price that's for "moderate abrasion and
low impact application" . The blades are supposed to be around 38-42
hardness , the rod is around 52-58 , I assume the variability is due to mixing with the base material . I have on hand ER70 and 308 , 309 , and
312 TIG filler and ER70 and 308/309 MIG wire . If one of the selections
I have on hand will be better than the hardfacing I can save a few bucks
... I also have 6011 , 6013 , and 7018 electrodes .
Snag

----------------------------------------

Hatchets, axes and the bandsaw blades for my sawmill are soft enough to sharpen with a file, and dent instead of chip on a rock. My uncle used a splitting maul to remove a lump from Grandma's granite front step. They lived within sight of the quarry and rejects were available for free.
When I inherited it I built up and sharpened the missing edge with
(IIRC) the ER70 in my MIG and it's held up well to the mild duty of splitting oak firewood.

Does anyone have experience with Rivnuts? I bought the Hardell tool and stainless rivnuts to attach 18ga galvanized repair panels to originally closed car frame box channels that had rusted out on the lower edge.
Welding would burn off interior rust inhibitor. https://www.amazon.com/HARDELL-Rivnut-Metric-Mandrels-Carrying/dp/ B0CBKFV533/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?

I have used the cheap Harbor freight rivnut tool that looks like a cheap
rivet tool to set aluminum rivnuts. I have also used a totally
armstrong hand operated tool you drive/hold with wrenches to set steel rivnuts. I recently bought the Vevor heavy duty rivnut tool, but have
not yet used it for its intended purpose. It didn't come with a couple
sizes I use all the time, but I think I can make the mandrels for those.

I tested one to destruction with a 1/4-20 Gr2 bolt. Tightening beyond
what the installation tool did further compressed the rivnut bulge at constant torque without making it rotate, after it bottomed out the bolt head sheared off. The threaded end still unscrewed easily. I think that
may be a good enough qualification.

Yep. Good enough is one of the hardest things to learn. Its even
harder when employees try to equate good enough with I don't want to
work any more/harder.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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