• Tomorrow is Nuts day !

    From Snag@Snag_one@msn.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon Aug 3 22:26:28 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    Specifically a couple of 3/8-24 nuts for tensioning the anti-backlash springs on my rebuilt/modified X axis leadscrew nut . Tomorrow should
    see the completion of the mill project , the last piece is a couple of
    nuts for the tensioning nut .
    And I've already got a project for the mill modifying the keyway in a crankshaft for a friend at a local shop . This is a continuation of the
    last project before I tore the mill down . The first part was modifying
    a SBC timing cover to use a gear drive on the camshaft . Patrick likes
    to go fast ...
    --
    Snag
    I appreciated foreign cultures more
    when they stayed foreign ...
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  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 08:56:27 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "Snag" wrote in message news:114rm55$3q1jp$1@dont-email.me...

    Specifically a couple of 3/8-24 nuts for tensioning the anti-backlash springs on my rebuilt/modified X axis leadscrew nut . ..

    Speaking of which, does anyone have good or bad hands-on experience with stainless Rivnuts and U clip nuts with threaded barrels to attach inner car rust repair patches?

    I don't want to weld in rust-prone areas where the back side will be inaccessible to clean or spray with rust inhibitor, which I can apply while the space is open but welding would burn off. I have the body repair manual that specifies the number and placement of spot welds, and I hope 1/4-20 stainless nuts and screws will adequately substitute for them. I bought a well-reviewed Hardell rivet nut setter which seems fine.

    The car and truck suffered from road salt when I was working and had to
    drive in it, but now that I don't I think LPS-3 coated repairs will last. Welded fender patches have.

    I have samples of Woolwax, Waxoyl, Fluid Film and NHOU to compare to LPS-3 when I come up with a good plan for accelerated ageing on test coupons. The last time I left the sample coupon under the gutter downspout, exposed to acidic oak leaf debris, and LPS-3 easily beat the other rust inhibitors then available.

    My 1991 and 2000 vehicles have features no longer offered, a 7' bed on the Ranger and full sized spare tires on both. I do not want to drive 100+ miles to and from family in Maine in a blizzard on a donut spare that stresses the AWD and brakes unevenly. Dodging other drivers' spinouts is hard enough.
    After brake work I do the hands-off-the-wheel hard braking test that was required to pass German inspection. Do modern parking brakes even allow it?

    https://www.radialtireservice.com/information-to-know-about-your-donut-spare-tire
    "If you are driving in adverse conditions, such as rain, ice, or snow, you will need to be even more cautious as the donut spare tire doesn't have much tread and will supply little to no traction."

    "If you suffer a blowout on the interstate, use a donut tire only to get you to the next exit and the nearest tire shop."

    Sure, in a rural area on Thanksgiving or Christmas day. I last found and patched a leak the day before the Thanksgiving 2025 trip. I needed
    compressed air and soapy water to roughly locate and circle the area, the
    shop found the thin wire (poster staple?) only by demounting the tire, it
    left no external mark. I carry a small compressor but a roadside patch kit wouldn't have helped.

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  • From David Billington@djb@invalid.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 15:25:21 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 04/08/2026 13:56, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag" wrote in message news:114rm55$3q1jp$1@dont-email.me...

    -aSpecifically a couple of 3/8-24 nuts for tensioning the
    anti-backlash springs on my rebuilt/modified X axis leadscrew nut . ..

    Speaking of which, does anyone have good or bad hands-on experience
    with stainless Rivnuts and U clip nuts with threaded barrels to attach
    inner car rust repair patches?
    My first experience with stainless rivnuts was trying to set an M6 one
    with an Avdel or Avdel clone setting tool, the tool collapsed as the M6 stainless rivnut was harder to set than the normal steel version. I
    bought a better setting tool which also did a wider range M3 to M12.

    I don't want to weld in rust-prone areas where the back side will be inaccessible to clean or spray with rust inhibitor, which I can apply
    while the space is open but welding would burn off. I have the body
    repair manual that specifies the number and placement of spot welds,
    and I hope 1/4-20 stainless nuts and screws will adequately substitute
    for them. I bought a well-reviewed Hardell rivet nut setter which
    seems fine.

    The car and truck suffered from road salt when I was working and had
    to drive in it, but now that I don't I think LPS-3 coated repairs will
    last. Welded fender patches have.

    I have samples of Woolwax, Waxoyl, Fluid Film and NHOU to compare to
    LPS-3 when I come up with a good plan for accelerated ageing on test coupons. The last time I left the sample coupon under the gutter
    downspout, exposed to acidic oak leaf debris, and LPS-3 easily beat
    the other rust inhibitors then available.

    My 1991 and 2000 vehicles have features no longer offered, a 7' bed on
    the Ranger and full sized spare tires on both. I do not want to drive
    100+ miles to and from family in Maine in a blizzard on a donut spare
    that stresses the AWD and brakes unevenly. Dodging other drivers'
    spinouts is hard enough. After brake work I do the hands-off-the-wheel
    hard braking test that was required to pass German inspection. Do
    modern parking brakes even allow it?

    https://www.radialtireservice.com/information-to-know-about-your-donut-spare-tire

    "If you are driving in adverse conditions, such as rain, ice, or snow,
    you will need to be even more cautious as the donut spare tire doesn't
    have much tread and will supply little to no traction."

    "If you suffer a blowout on the interstate, use a donut tire only to
    get you to the next exit and the nearest tire shop."

    Sure, in a rural area on Thanksgiving or Christmas day. I last found
    and patched a leak the day before the Thanksgiving 2025 trip. I needed compressed air and soapy water to roughly locate and circle the area,
    the shop found the thin wire (poster staple?) only by demounting the
    tire, it left no external mark. I carry a small compressor but a
    roadside patch kit wouldn't have helped.


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  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 11:02:17 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "David Billington" wrote in message news:114ssoi$27gi0$1@dont-email.me...

    On 04/08/2026 13:56, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    Speaking of which, does anyone have good or bad hands-on experience with stainless Rivnuts and U clip nuts with threaded barrels to attach inner
    car rust repair patches?

    My first experience with stainless rivnuts was trying to set an M6 one
    with an Avdel or Avdel clone setting tool, the tool collapsed as the M6 stainless rivnut was harder to set than the normal steel version. I
    bought a better setting tool which also did a wider range M3 to M12.

    ----------------------------
    Thanks.
    I considered buying or making a simpler tool with a Grade 8 bolt to start
    the bulge. Reviews of several tools agreed with you, the Hardell seems OK so far and plain and stainless samples needed similar reasonable effort. It
    came with several metric and inch mandrels. I use both as appropriate, inch hardware is available with more material and head type choices here. My
    lathe can cut threads in either. My US-made 1991 Ford is almost entirely metric.

    Looking at tool and hardware options on Amazon burned through most of my monthly cellular data allotment, so video reviews are out.

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  • From David Billington@djb@invalid.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 16:35:14 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 04/08/2026 16:02, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "David Billington"-a wrote in message
    news:114ssoi$27gi0$1@dont-email.me...

    On 04/08/2026 13:56, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    Speaking of which, does anyone have good or bad hands-on experience
    with stainless Rivnuts and U clip nuts with threaded barrels to
    attach inner car rust repair patches?

    My first experience with stainless rivnuts was trying to set an M6 one
    with an Avdel or Avdel clone setting tool, the tool collapsed as the M6 stainless rivnut was harder to set than the normal steel version. I
    bought a better setting tool which also did a wider range M3 to M12.

    ----------------------------
    Thanks.
    I considered buying or making a simpler tool with a Grade 8 bolt to
    start the bulge. Reviews of several tools agreed with you, the Hardell
    seems OK so far and plain and stainless samples needed similar
    reasonable effort. It came with several metric and inch mandrels. I
    use both as appropriate, inch hardware is available with more material
    and head type choices here. My lathe can cut threads in either. My
    US-made 1991 Ford is almost entirely metric.

    Looking at tool and hardware options on Amazon burned through most of
    my monthly cellular data allotment, so video reviews are out.

    A quick search for Hardell rivnut tool and that appears to be what I
    have in a long handled version and with a different brand and colour
    scheme like so many thing out of China. The brand I have is Sealey which
    in the UK is generally a good brand. I also have one I bought which uses
    2 wedges which are pulled together, https://patents.google.com/patent/US6691546B1/en . works well but is
    more limited in the sizes it'll do and slower but would be fairly easy
    to make.

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  • From Bob La Londe@user16941@newsgrouper.org.invalid to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 15:52:56 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


    Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> posted:

    Specifically a couple of 3/8-24 nuts for tensioning the anti-backlash springs on my rebuilt/modified X axis leadscrew nut . Tomorrow should
    see the completion of the mill project , the last piece is a couple of
    nuts for the tensioning nut .
    And I've already got a project for the mill modifying the keyway in a crankshaft for a friend at a local shop . This is a continuation of the
    last project before I tore the mill down . The first part was modifying
    a SBC timing cover to use a gear drive on the camshaft . Patrick likes
    to go fast ...


    I have used rivet nuts only a handful of times hope i'm getting ready to use some in one of my boat projects right now. I thought about your post for a little while, and then I thought I might mention this.

    Have you considered using a stainless steel counter sunk rivet nut. Obviously you would need to dimple the hole so that the counter sunk head or rim would sit flush. But I don't think that would be a complex dimple die to make.
    .
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff
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  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Tue Aug 4 14:26:38 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:1785858776-16941@newsgrouper.org...

    I have used rivet nuts only a handful of times hope i'm getting ready to use some in one of my boat projects right now. I thought about your post for a little while, and then I thought I might mention this.

    Have you considered using a stainless steel counter sunk rivet nut.
    Obviously you would need to dimple the hole so that the counter sunk head or rim would sit flush. But I don't think that would be a complex dimple die to make.
    .
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff
    --------------------------------------------

    The upper front fender channel area I'm working on is open at both ends and can have water enter within from the cowl end drains and externally from splash past the fender liner. Rust may have started along the box channel's lower edge under trapped oak tree debris that entered from the cowl drain. Those trees are gone now. Much of the area is still intact and retains the LPS-3 wax I sprayed on accessible surfaces many years (decades?) ago. They made poor decisions on water sealing and trapping in some areas, like this
    and the rear fender holes for the snap-on trim sealed by foam that deteriorated. The rust-through that resulted was excessively expensive to repair unless DIY. The dealer quoted me $3600.

    I plan to caulk the upper edge and leave the bottom edge unsealed for drainage. It sits in a channel in the plastic fender liner, or will if I get the difficult fit correct. The 18 ga steel patch is too difficult to form to
    a tight flush fit to the curved surfaces, the small standoff of the rivnut heads will help.

    I made a sheet metal screw and rivet head countersinking punch for my Roper Whitney No. 5 Junior hand punch (clone) that worked well but needs to be harder because the die expanded and jammed in the threads. Away from edges a two part screw together dimpler would be better. I made a similar wrench tightened grommet setting punch and die for installing them on hanging
    tarps.

    Though the vehicle is a Honda the body is a Land Rover design from a brief joint venture. https://www.aronline.co.uk/opinion/blog-honda-get-rover%E2%80%A6/

    Honda had been making a similar AWD SUV for a decade, the Civic Wagovan,
    which was so ugly it could be mistaken for a Citroen. They were more than ready for a body style that would sell.

    I really like the combination of Honda reliability and Land Rover practicality, which faded as Honda stylists put their marks on later models. The built-in folding table:
    https://www.instagram.com/reel/DTO4NluCHs4/
    Below it is a water-tight tub, the kitchen sink. A cargo compartment 12V outlet runs my small DC freezer. The seats fold flat to sleep on. It has the large Land Rover windows to better view the hungry lions circling outside.

    I didn't mention looks or excitement, it's what Clark Kent would drive to
    stay invisible. The thrill is when I'm in control on ice and everyone else isn't. The only addition I've made was a backup camera mount through the
    spare tire center.

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