From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

I don't think I have enough room under the table to do the delrin nut
I was thinking about . Right now I see 3 options other than the delrin approach. I can ream the existing nut out and sleeve it with a bronze
threaded bushing but I'm concerned about the strength of the shell
remaining and what to use to bond the sleeve to the shell . I can build
a nut mounted on a 90-# angle plate with slots for centering it up on the leadscrew . Or I can cast a bronze replacement and machine it . All 3
options will leave me a way to incorporate a backlash adjustment .
I have left the mill in a condition that I can use it - using the new
X/Y table I just got - if the need arises . I've also made arrangements
to use a local machinist's milling machine if I need to .
Right now I'm leaning towards the sleeve option just because it
eliminates alignment issues .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:1133ri5$2pnok$1@dont-email.me...

I can ream the existing nut out and sleeve it with a bronze threaded
bushing but I'm concerned about the strength of the shell remaining and
what to use to bond the sleeve to the shell .

Googling didn't find encouragement for retapping a bronze nut built up with Babbitt. The lathe could be set up to hold the tap and nut thread in
alignment before pouring the metal in and draining most out. Babbitt is effectively 95/5 solder with 5% copper chips or scouring pad dissolved in
it.

If you can thread a new bronze bushing could you make a thicker walled steel nut shell and a two part bronze bushing threaded on the outside so the
halves can be tightened together to minimize free play.

32 TPI is a standard thread series for which you can buy a wide range of tap sizes.
https://drillsandcutters.com/3-4-32-hss-bottoming-tap/?

The initial gap between the halves in the nut should be the width of the parting tool that cut the bushing in half, so 2 turns out from contact for a 1/16" parting blade ought to align the leadscrew threads in both halves.
This fix might cost a little table travel if longer than the OEM nut.

The nut shell, bushings and locknuts could be a lathe job except for the non-precision hex on the locknuts. The bushing outer ends could be notched
for a pin spanner to allow wrench clearance to tighten the thin locknuts.
This would let you omit a hex on the end and be able to trial cut the thread to a close fit in the nut.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:1135bic$d4d0$1@dont-email.me...

If you can thread a new bronze bushing ...

Here's another way: https://stepcraft.odoo.com/shop/90025-anti-backlash-adjustable-lead-screw-nut-542

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 7/13/2026 6:15 PM, Snag wrote:

-a I don't think I have enough room under the table to do the delrin nut
I was thinking about . Right now I see 3 options other than the delrin approach. I can ream the existing nut out and sleeve it with a bronze threaded bushing but I'm concerned about the strength of the shell
remaining and what to use to bond the sleeve to the shell . I can build
a nut mounted on a 90-# angle plate with slots for centering it up on the leadscrew . Or I can cast a bronze replacement and machine it . All 3 options will leave me a way to incorporate a backlash adjustment .
-a I have left the mill in a condition that I can use it - using the new X/Y table I just got - if the need arises . I've also made arrangements
to use a local machinist's milling machine if I need to .
-a Right now I'm leaning towards the sleeve option just because it eliminates alignment issues .

I have decided to go with the sleeve option . I just ordered a 13"
piece of cored (1.25 od/.75 id) ampco 18 to fabricate the sleeve - I
have bronze on hand but don't know which alloy . Better to know for sure
. Next decision will be how to secure it in the shell . I'll do some
testing when the stock gets here to see if I can use maybe silphos or a
lower temp brazing rod . Maybe silver solder or if those require too
high a temp I might try regular lead/tin solder . Last resort would be something like sleeve retaining Loctite with some brass/bronze pins for additional security . I'd really prefer a solder/brazed joint because I
think it will be stronger ...
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:1135j7q$2qjd6$1@dont-email.me...

I have decided to go with the sleeve option . I just ordered a 13"
piece of cored (1.25 od/.75 id) ampco 18 to fabricate the sleeve - I
have bronze on hand but don't know which alloy . Better to know for sure
. Next decision will be how to secure it in the shell . I'll do some
testing when the stock gets here to see if I can use maybe silphos or a
lower temp brazing rod . Maybe silver solder or if those require too
high a temp I might try regular lead/tin solder . Last resort would be something like sleeve retaining Loctite with some brass/bronze pins for additional security . I'd really prefer a solder/brazed joint because I
think it will be stronger ...
Snag

----------------------------
95/5 solder is intermediate in strength and melting point between lead/tin
and silver solders.

If you can afford the extra length the sleeve could have a shoulder on one
end and a thin nut on the other. You might be able to shorten the bored nut
to keep OAL the same. A step on the nut and the shoulder would hold the
sleeve while you tighten the nut.

GM U joints spiders are very firmly retained with injected plastic in
matching grooves, heat to soften/melt and remove. https://www.theinductor.com/blog/induction-torch-or-press-best-method-for-plastic-injected-ujoints-shop-tool-reviews/

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


On 7/13/2026 4:15 PM, Snag wrote:

I don't think I have enough room under the table to do the delrin

nut I was thinking about . Right now I see 3 options other than the
delrin approach. I can ream the existing nut out and sleeve it with a
bronze threaded bushing but I'm concerned about the strength of the
shell remaining

Legitimate concern:

and what to use to bond the sleeve to the shell .

Easy... one of the Loctite sleeve and bearing lockers.

I can build a nut mounted on a 90-# angle plate with slots for

centering it up on the leadscrew . Or I can cast a bronze replacement
and machine it . All 3 options will leave me a way to incorporate a
backlash adjustment .

I have left the mill in a condition that I can use it - using the

new X/Y table I just got - if the need arises . I've also made
arrangements to use a local machinist's milling machine if I need to .

Right now I'm leaning towards the sleeve option just because it

eliminates alignment issues .

Are you going to split the sleeve so you can use the three screw method
in the existing nut for reducing backlash?

I converted a little CNC mill from a split sleeve nut (don't make me
describe it, cuz I get dumber just thinking about it) to DumpsterCNC antibacklash nuts once. Instead of making the nut line up with anything
I made the motor mount and the bearing mount adjustable. Crank it up
against. Tighten them down. Done.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 7/14/2026 1:35 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 7/13/2026 4:15 PM, Snag wrote:

-a-a-a I don't think I have enough room under the table to do the delrin nut I was thinking about . Right now I see 3 options other than the

delrin approach. I can ream the existing nut out and sleeve it with a
bronze threaded bushing but I'm concerned about the strength of the
shell remaining

Legitimate concern:

and what to use to bond the sleeve to the shell .

Easy... one of the Loctite sleeve and bearing lockers.

I can build a nut mounted on a 90-# angle plate with slots for

centering it up on the leadscrew . Or I can cast a bronze replacement
and machine it . All 3 options will leave me a way to incorporate a
backlash adjustment .

-a-a-a I have left the mill in a condition that I can use it - using the new X/Y table I just got - if the need arises . I've also made

arrangements to use a local machinist's milling machine if I need to .

-a-a-a Right now I'm leaning towards the sleeve option just because it eliminates alignment issues .

Are you going to split the sleeve so you can use the three screw method
in the existing nut for reducing backlash?

I converted a little CNC mill from a split sleeve nut (don't make me describe it, cuz-a I get dumber just thinking about it) to DumpsterCNC antibacklash nuts once.-a Instead of making the nut line up with anything
I made the motor mount and the bearing mount adjustable.-a Crank it up against.-a Tighten them down.-a Done.

I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original split
nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The
combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be more
than adequate .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:11363kq$lclu$1@dont-email.me...

... I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original split
nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The
combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be more
than adequate .

It might cost you some X axis travel.

My Clausing's accurate work envelope is relatively small. I've machined assemblies longer than the mill table to adequate relative though not
absolute accuracy by drilling scribed and center punched hole locations to a convenient dowel pin size in the first part and using dowel pins etc to
match it to the blanks and align with the spindle for the rest. For the tractor bucket loader the holes and pins were 1/2" which accepts the 0.500" end of an edge finder. A spacer block the same height as the milling vise table helped keep long parts level and holes parallel.

Match drilling allowed me to build a multi part assembly 16 feet long with nominally zero clearance, 3/8" bolts in 3/8" holes. The shanks average
0.372" diameter. The joints have to be labeled because it fits together only the way it was made.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 7/15/2026 5:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag"-a wrote in message news:11363kq$lclu$1@dont-email.me...

...-a I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original
split nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The
combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be
more than adequate .

It might cost you some X axis travel.

Looking at the wear pattern on the leadscrew adding a quarter inch at
each end wont affect travel .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:113850t$276b2$1@dont-email.me...

On 7/15/2026 5:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag" wrote in message news:11363kq$lclu$1@dont-email.me...

... I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original
split nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The
combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be
more than adequate .

It might cost you some X axis travel.

Looking at the wear pattern on the leadscrew adding a quarter inch at
each end wont affect travel .
--
Snag

--------------------------------
Good. I thought it was worth mentioning.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> posted:

"Snag" wrote in message news:113850t$276b2$1@dont-email.me...

On 7/15/2026 5:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag" wrote in message news:11363kq$lclu$1@dont-email.me...

... I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original
split nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The
combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be
more than adequate .

It might cost you some X axis travel.

Looking at the wear pattern on the leadscrew adding a quarter inch at each end wont affect travel .

It occurred to me if you're going to use a flex to reduce backlash you might need to do a little more research and how you're going to fasten the sleeve to the old nut. Loctite is pretty strong but I'm not sure it can handle the flex
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 7/15/2026 2:57 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> posted:

"Snag" wrote in message news:113850t$276b2$1@dont-email.me...

On 7/15/2026 5:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag" wrote in message news:11363kq$lclu$1@dont-email.me...

... I like the shoulder/nut idea . I plan to utilize the original
split nut - only 1 screw - and make the threaded portions longer . The >>>> combination of the shoulder/nut/sleeve retaining loctite should be
more than adequate .

It might cost you some X axis travel.

Looking at the wear pattern on the leadscrew adding a quarter inch at
each end wont affect travel .

It occurred to me if you're going to use a flex to reduce backlash you might need to do a little more research and how you're going to fasten the sleeve to the old nut. Loctite is pretty strong but I'm not sure it can handle the flex

Good point , glad you mentioned it . I've got a few days waiting for
the materials to arrive . You mentioned a 3 screw setup , and on the
left side I've got more room than on the right where my power feed lives
. I'm going to let things ferment in my subconscious . May even end up
fabbing a new holder for the nut that will accommodate a backlash
adjustment device . There's no mad rush , after all with me it's just a
hobby ... but the new setup will damn sure have more length/bearing
surface since the original only lasted around 20 years .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
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