Mine has a problem , and I suspect I might have figured out the
answer . Since the day I first plugged it in I get shocked if I touch
the ground clamp . I got to wondering today while welding on a limb
chipper if a previous owner had replaced the ground clamp and stinger
and got the leads crossed ... there is continuity between the stinger
and the ground prong on the power plug (unplugged and power switch off)
. This is an AC box so no polarity issues .
On Mon, 29 Jun 2026 14:56:05 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Mine has a problem , and I suspect I might have figured out the
answer . Since the day I first plugged it in I get shocked if I touch
the ground clamp . I got to wondering today while welding on a limb
chipper if a previous owner had replaced the ground clamp and stinger
and got the leads crossed ... there is continuity between the stinger
and the ground prong on the power plug (unplugged and power switch off)
. This is an AC box so no polarity issues .
It should have a Two Pole switch in it. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/306289619650
One side might not be switching anymore or someone replaced it with a
single pole.
The Fan might have been replaced or wired incorrectly too.
I looked through several Lincoln 225 manuals I'd saved (pdf's) through
the years but none of them have a wiring diagram. They have a parts
list but neither the switch or the fan are described. The Ebay link
does match the part number in one of my 225 manuals (S7670)...
On 6/29/2026 4:16 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
On Mon, 29 Jun 2026 14:56:05 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Mine has a problem , and I suspect I might have figured out the
answer . Since the day I first plugged it in I get shocked if I touch
the ground clamp . I got to wondering today while welding on a limb
chipper if a previous owner had replaced the ground clamp and stinger
and got the leads crossed ... there is continuity between the stinger
and the ground prong on the power plug (unplugged and power switch off)
. This is an AC box so no polarity issues .
It should have a Two Pole switch in it. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/306289619650
One side might not be switching anymore or someone replaced it with a
single pole.
Original switch , and one pole not disconnecting does not explain the
continuity between the plug and the stinger . There should be NO
continuity between the power plug hots and the stinger - since it's >mechanically isolated by the transformer .
The Fan might have been replaced or wired incorrectly too.
Original fan motor . And it's noisy but it works .
I looked through several Lincoln 225 manuals I'd saved (pdf's) through
the years but none of them have a wiring diagram. They have a parts
list but neither the switch or the fan are described. The Ebay link
does match the part number in one of my 225 manuals (S7670)...
I have also been unsuccessful in finding a schematic of the wiring .
Tomorrow I'll plug it in and turn it on and check voltage between the >stinger and the case and between the ground clamp and the case . I
suspect I'll get the same voltage reading between the ground clamp and
the stinger as between the stinger and the case .
On Mon, 29 Jun 2026 19:02:14 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 6/29/2026 4:16 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation) wiring diagram below
On Mon, 29 Jun 2026 14:56:05 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Mine has a problem , and I suspect I might have figured out the
answer . Since the day I first plugged it in I get shocked if I touch
the ground clamp . I got to wondering today while welding on a limb
chipper if a previous owner had replaced the ground clamp and stinger >>>> and got the leads crossed ... there is continuity between the stinger
and the ground prong on the power plug (unplugged and power switch off) >>>> . This is an AC box so no polarity issues .
It should have a Two Pole switch in it. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/306289619650
One side might not be switching anymore or someone replaced it with a
single pole.
Original switch , and one pole not disconnecting does not explain the
continuity between the plug and the stinger . There should be NO
continuity between the power plug hots and the stinger - since it's
mechanically isolated by the transformer .
The Fan might have been replaced or wired incorrectly too.
Original fan motor . And it's noisy but it works .
I looked through several Lincoln 225 manuals I'd saved (pdf's) through
the years but none of them have a wiring diagram. They have a parts
list but neither the switch or the fan are described. The Ebay link
does match the part number in one of my 225 manuals (S7670)...
I have also been unsuccessful in finding a schematic of the wiring .
Tomorrow I'll plug it in and turn it on and check voltage between the
stinger and the case and between the ground clamp and the case . I
suspect I'll get the same voltage reading between the ground clamp and
the stinger as between the stinger and the case .
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR stinger.
"Clare Snyder"-a wrote in message news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/ content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that
appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't detect
with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H and
X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either to
the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to chassis.
Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment
to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials
are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
On 6/30/2026 4:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"a wrote in message
news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/
content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR
stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that
appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't detect
with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H and
X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either to
the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to chassis.
Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment
to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials
are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
If you have a good AC/DC TIG power sourced with a rod holder, you no99.9% chance it is copper plated aluminum windings.
longer have any need for the cracker box except maybe as a backup. I
gave my cracker box away a couple years ago.
If you feel yours may be borderline unsafe I suggest making sure the >transformer is copper wound, and add it to your scrap metal/recycle
pile. You can always use it to make brass or aluminum bronze if you
feel you have the time to play.
On Tue, 30 Jun 2026 12:39:38 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 6/30/2026 4:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"-a wrote in message
news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/
content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR
stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that
appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't detect
with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H and
X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either to
the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to chassis.
Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment
to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials
are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
If you have a good AC/DC TIG power sourced with a rod holder, you no
longer have any need for the cracker box except maybe as a backup. I
gave my cracker box away a couple years ago.
If you feel yours may be borderline unsafe I suggest making sure the
transformer is copper wound, and add it to your scrap metal/recycle
pile. You can always use it to make brass or aluminum bronze if you
feel you have the time to play.
99.9% chance it is copper plated aluminum windings.
I suspect there is some rat or mouse piss involved in the situation -
- -
On 6/30/2026 1:18 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Jun 2026 12:39:38 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 6/30/2026 4:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"-a wrote in message
news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/
content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR
stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that
appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't
detect
with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H
and
X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either to
the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to chassis.
Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment >>>> to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials >>>> are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
If you have a good AC/DC TIG power sourced with a rod holder, you no
longer have any need for the cracker box except maybe as a backup.-a I
gave my cracker box away a couple years ago.
If you feel yours may be borderline unsafe I suggest making sure the
transformer is copper wound, and add it to your scrap metal/recycle
pile.-a You can always use it to make brass or aluminum bronze if you
feel you have the time to play.
-a 99.9% chance it is copper plated aluminum windings.
-a I suspect there is some rat or mouse piss involved in the situation -
- -
I had heard they had gone to aluminum windings at some point. That's
why I said to check.-a Mine was 10-15 years old when I bought it 30
plus years ago so who knows.-a I was going to scrap it until a local
welder / retired boiler maker said he wanted it.-a No clue why
exactly.-a He has better machines.
On 01/07/2026 01:19, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/30/2026 1:18 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:I still use my 180A Pickhill oil cooled welder for MMA as it'll likely outlast me and still works great, being oil cooled I think it's
On Tue, 30 Jun 2026 12:39:38 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 6/30/2026 4:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"-a wrote in message
news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation) >>>>> wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/
content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR >>>>> stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that >>>>> appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't
detect
with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H >>>>> and
X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either to >>>>> the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to chassis. >>>>> Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment >>>>> to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials >>>>> are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
If you have a good AC/DC TIG power sourced with a rod holder, you no
longer have any need for the cracker box except maybe as a backup.-a I >>>> gave my cracker box away a couple years ago.
If you feel yours may be borderline unsafe I suggest making sure the
transformer is copper wound, and add it to your scrap metal/recycle
pile.-a You can always use it to make brass or aluminum bronze if you
feel you have the time to play.
-a 99.9% chance it is copper plated aluminum windings.
-a I suspect there is some rat or mouse piss involved in the situation - >>> - -
I had heard they had gone to aluminum windings at some point. That's
why I said to check.-a Mine was 10-15 years old when I bought it 30
plus years ago so who knows.-a I was going to scrap it until a local
welder / retired boiler maker said he wanted it.-a No clue why
exactly.-a He has better machines.
effectively continuous duty, if I need DC I can get my rectifier back
from a mate. I have a Hitachi GP2 AC/DC inverter TIG bought new in 1998
and it has performed faultlessly until recently when the AC balance is playing up in a bad way, DC still works which is mainly what I use. Not
much to go wrong with the Pickhill, the opposite is true with the Hitachi.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:1123n3t$22nkf$1@dont-email.me...
There is an old Hobart DC generator welder in my dad's old shop that he retired 25-30 years ago.-a He said the battery charging circuit was bad
on it, because it melted its cranking battery, but there are a number of things that can cause that besides a bad regulator. Heck, that can
happen with a bad battery.-a It was the first electric welder I ever used that just felt "easy" to get decent if not pretty welds.-a On one of my
trips out to clear out the house and shop for sale I plan to bring it
back and see if I can figure it out.-a I'm sure the first thing I'll do
is flush the gas tank and clean the carburetor.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
Without starting it you could check for a voltage regulator relay
contact that is welded closed.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/voltage-regulators-2/
On 7/1/2026 3:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:1123n3t$22nkf$1@dont-email.me...
There is an old Hobart DC generator welder in my dad's old shop that he
retired 25-30 years ago.-a He said the battery charging circuit was bad
on it, because it melted its cranking battery, but there are a number of
things that can cause that besides a bad regulator. Heck, that can
happen with a bad battery.-a It was the first electric welder I ever used
that just felt "easy" to get decent if not pretty welds.-a On one of my
trips out to clear out the house and shop for sale I plan to bring it
back and see if I can figure it out.-a I'm sure the first thing I'll do
is flush the gas tank and clean the carburetor.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
Without starting it you could check for a voltage regulator relay
contact that is welded closed.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/voltage-regulators-2/
That's a good tip.-a I figured if it was bad I'd try to figure out the
total power, and buy a generic universal regulator.-a Hobart/Miller may
not have specs anymore, but specs on a lot of those old engines are available.
Without starting it you could check for a voltage regulator relay contact that is welded closed.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/voltage-regulators-2/
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:112478e$27b3h$1@dont-email.me...
On 7/1/2026 3:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Without starting it you could check for a voltage regulator relay
contact that is welded closed.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/voltage-regulators-2/
That's a good tip.-a I figured if it was bad I'd try to figure out the
total power, and buy a generic universal regulator.-a Hobart/Miller may
not have specs anymore, but specs on a lot of those old engines are available.
------------------------------
If it only recharges the engine starting battery you don't even need it.
As long as you are welding near civilization you can use a separate
charger.
On 6/30/2026 4:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"-a wrote in message
news:3k664lts9tg05a476cmpe6kuapk4rdms2r@4ax.com...
I would be STRONGLY suspecting a "leaky" transformer (bad insulation)
wiring diagram below
https://ch-delivery.lincolnelectric.com/api/public/
content/667c6be50d884c3bb57f0a85fe62bde1?v=09ce2530
there is NO WAY you should have continuity between the line voltage
and the ground clamp OR the power cord ground and the ground clamp OR
stinger.
--------------------------------
Using a hand cranked Megger I sometimes find electrical leakage that
appear only as the voltage is increased, but a DVM on Ohms won't
detect with its battery voltage output.
If a DVM shows the short circuit I'd label and disconnect all the H
and X transformer connections and check between any H and X, or either
to the chassis. If they pass then check any reactor terminal to
chassis. Also check the disconnected wiring.
If a DVM doesn't show the short circuit the cost of the test equipment
to look further likely exceeds the value of the welder. The essentials
are a high power metered Variac, a DVM with a current clamp and a
megger, which is a high voltage insulation tester.
If you have a good AC/DC TIG power sourced with a rod holder, you no
longer have any need for the cracker box except maybe as a backup.-a I
gave my cracker box away a couple years ago.
If you feel yours may be borderline unsafe I suggest making sure the transformer is copper wound, and add it to your scrap metal/recycle
pile.-a You can always use it to make brass or aluminum bronze if you
feel you have the time to play.
https://www.centralwires.com/welding-cable-size/?
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