From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

Video 1:54 - Whichever platform gives you the least trouble.

Rumble:
https://rumble.com/shorts/v79nxmi?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue

YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/7sH3t7Rh3FM?si=sOy4WuaPwCfe49iQ

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYKwBaRKCbr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1Dajea8G54/
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 5/10/2026 11:39 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Video 1:54 - Whichever platform gives you the least trouble.

Rumble:
https://rumble.com/shorts/v79nxmi?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue

YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/7sH3t7Rh3FM?si=sOy4WuaPwCfe49iQ

Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYKwBaRKCbr/? utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1Dajea8G54/

Technically that might be called blacksmithing or forging... no?

There is a little bit of forge scale laying on that anvil now.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10tqjqo$3svep$1@dont-email.me...

Technically that might be called blacksmithing or forging... no?

There is a little bit of forge scale laying on that anvil now.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--------------------------

Another way blacksmiths expand (upset) the end of a rod is by striking it endwise on the anvil. If the red hot area is short it will flare larger, if too long it may bend. An advantage is speed, with the torch in one hand and Vise-grips in the other you can strike a fraction of a second after the rod leaves the flame, before it cools much, and immediately reheat. I don't have the skill or practice time to expand the rod into a short cylinder that can
be rounded into a hand-comfortable ball.

I've read that if the end is a blunt cone quenched at the tip just before striking the rod may expand into more of a ball shape. That sounds like the brake line double flaring process I've become excessively familiar with.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 5/10/2026 12:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10tqjqo$3svep$1@dont-email.me...

Technically that might be called blacksmithing or forging... no?

There is a little bit of forge scale laying on that anvil now.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--------------------------

Another way blacksmiths expand (upset) the end of a rod is by striking
it endwise on the anvil. If the red hot area is short it will flare
larger, if too long it may bend. An advantage is speed, with the torch
in one hand and Vise-grips in the other you can strike a fraction of a second after the rod leaves the flame, before it cools much, and
immediately reheat. I don't have the skill or practice time to expand
the rod into a short cylinder that can be rounded into a hand-
comfortable ball.

I've read that if the end is a blunt cone quenched at the tip just
before striking the rod may expand into more of a ball shape. That
sounds like the brake line double flaring process I've become
excessively familiar with.

I have made handles by upsetting as well. Same rod stock. I just felt
like smashed handles were faster and easier. I want a repeatable
process. Not necessarily a pretty / fancy process. If I wanted to ball
the ends I would make hammer dies for a guillotine tool, but it would
take more time to make a pretty ball.

Several of those handle ends were done with two strikes. A process I
would no doubt get better at with more practice.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10tqnvo$kjsc$1@dont-email.me...

Several of those handle ends were done with two strikes. A process I
would no doubt get better at with more practice.
-----------------------

For me the smithing class was a race between developing better hammer
control and losing it to fatigue. I've been choosing a hammer over fancier methods to build up my endurance and accuracy. The HF door skin hammer with its faces rounded seems so far to improve my ability to form sheet steel
into fairly smooth auto body repair shapes.

He has doubled his course price. The local maker space finally got their blacksmithing area set up and charges 1/10th as much per month.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 10/05/2026 19:39, Bob La Londe wrote:

Video 1:54 - Whichever platform gives you the least trouble.

Rumble:
https://rumble.com/shorts/v79nxmi?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue

YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/7sH3t7Rh3FM?si=sOy4WuaPwCfe49iQ

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYKwBaRKCbr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1Dajea8G54/

You could do with a fly press (US Screw press IIRC), some simple tooling
with a depth stop and set the ram travel stop to give a constant squash
and you could do an end with a single strike and get consistent results.

--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


David Billington <djb@invalid.com> posted:

On 10/05/2026 19:39, Bob La Londe wrote:

Video 1:54 - Whichever platform gives you the least trouble.

Rumble:
https://rumble.com/shorts/v79nxmi?mref=1sqt4y&mc=42lue

YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/7sH3t7Rh3FM?si=sOy4WuaPwCfe49iQ

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYKwBaRKCbr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1Dajea8G54/

You could do with a fly press (US Screw press IIRC), some simple tooling with a depth stop and set the ram travel stop to give a constant squash
and you could do an end with a single strike and get consistent results.

It never occurred to me to use a press. The 6 ton arbor press I use fir broaching and settings pins might work.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:1778474766-16941@newsgrouper.org...
David Billington <djb@invalid.com> posted:

You could do with a fly press (US Screw press IIRC), some simple tooling
with a depth stop and set the ram travel stop to give a constant squash
and you could do an end with a single strike and get consistent results.

It never occurred to me to use a press. The 6 ton arbor press I use fir broaching and settings pins might work.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-----------------------------

For possible future use, not criticism of your current work, blacksmiths
made and used tools called Fullers for the hot drop forging process with a hammer and anvil. The lower die fits in the square "hardy" hole on an anvil, the U spring holds the upper die open and in alignment if you lack an apprentice. Apparently simpler carbon steels or even cast iron hold up long enough for their short production runs. https://blacksmithsdepot.com/tools/anvil-hardy-tools/fullers-tool.html? https://www.centaurforge.com/Swage-Blocks-Mandrel-Cones/products/194/

Wrought iron has grain like forgings. The old process of threading pressed
the threads into the rod to avoid cutting the grain, like modern thread rolling but with an adjustable die stock. I have one in which the die
threads appear to have been cut in straight lines with a vee chisel. Wear
has somewhat rounded them in the middle of the once-square? openings between the pairs of sliding dies.
Like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383979597879?

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:10tsf95$12tak$1@dont-email.me...

For possible future use, not criticism of your current work, blacksmiths made and used tools called Fullers for the hot drop forging process with a hammer and anvil.

Unlike some artisan smiths and their clienteles I'm not a purist using only traditional methods, I take elements of their proven practice to mix with
the machine tools I own. When I showed the instructor a chisel I had
modified to fit upright in the hardy hole for cutting off stock he couldn't believe I was skilled enough to make the square tenon so neatly, assuming
that I had forged instead of milling it. I wanted to avoid wasting class
time and money on rank beginner exercises.

Hammering stock onto the chisel edge to nick both sides weakens it to break there. It's a good quick way to cut rod too thin for a chop or bandsaw.

After annealing and shaping a chisel you quench only the cutting end,
quickly grind a spot on it, and quench again when the remaining heat in the shank reheats the ground spot to temper color. The slower cooling shank
won't be too brittle to pound on.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> posted:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:10tsf95$12tak$1@dont-email.me...

For possible future use, not criticism of your current work, blacksmiths made and used tools called Fullers for the hot drop forging process with a hammer and anvil.

Unlike some artisan smiths and their clienteles I'm not a purist using only traditional methods, I take elements of their proven practice to mix with the machine tools I own. When I showed the instructor a chisel I had modified to fit upright in the hardy hole for cutting off stock he couldn't believe I was skilled enough to make the square tenon so neatly, assuming that I had forged instead of milling it. I wanted to avoid wasting class time and money on rank beginner exercises.

Hammering stock onto the chisel edge to nick both sides weakens it to break there. It's a good quick way to cut rod too thin for a chop or bandsaw.

After annealing and shaping a chisel you quench only the cutting end, quickly grind a spot on it, and quench again when the remaining heat in the shank reheats the ground spot to temper color. The slower cooling shank won't be too brittle to pound on.

Usually rod too thin to cut with a band saw cuts fairly easily with a mini bolt cutter. Very fast and with just one tool instead of three. I caught wire and bar up to athey inch with my mini bolt cutters all the time.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


Bob La Londe <user16941@newsgrouper.org.invalid> posted:

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> posted:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:10tsf95$12tak$1@dont-email.me...

For possible future use, not criticism of your current work, blacksmiths made and used tools called Fullers for the hot drop forging process with a
hammer and anvil.

Unlike some artisan smiths and their clienteles I'm not a purist using only
traditional methods, I take elements of their proven practice to mix with the machine tools I own. When I showed the instructor a chisel I had modified to fit upright in the hardy hole for cutting off stock he couldn't
believe I was skilled enough to make the square tenon so neatly, assuming that I had forged instead of milling it. I wanted to avoid wasting class time and money on rank beginner exercises.

Hammering stock onto the chisel edge to nick both sides weakens it to break
there. It's a good quick way to cut rod too thin for a chop or bandsaw.

After annealing and shaping a chisel you quench only the cutting end, quickly grind a spot on it, and quench again when the remaining heat in the
shank reheats the ground spot to temper color. The slower cooling shank won't be too brittle to pound on.

Usually rod too thin to cut with a band saw cuts fairly easily with a mini bolt cutter. Very fast and with just one tool instead of three. I caught wire and bar up to athey inch with my mini bolt cutters all the time.

Wow! Google's AI driven voice to text feature is really bound and determined to fuck up everything I say. I CUT WIRE AND BAR UP TO EIGHTH INCH. ALL THE TIME WITH MY MINI BOLT CUTTERS.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:1778522664-16941@newsgrouper.org...

Wow! Google's AI driven voice to text feature is really bound and
determined to fuck up everything I say. I CUT WIRE AND BAR UP TO EIGHTH
INCH. ALL THE TIME WITH MY MINI BOLT CUTTERS.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-------------------------------------

I blame misinterpretations of what I say on the dead guy (zombie?) bone that built up my jaw for tooth implants, and what I write on the reader.

The chisel is good for nicking and breaking hard drawn steel 3/16" gas
welding rod, I bought the whole special ordered tube and use it for handles, punches, wood stove tools etc. My bolt cutter flings short pieces into black holes and is more difficult to resharpen when nicked than the chisel.

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking


"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

After annealing and shaping a chisel you quench only the cutting end, quickly grind a spot on it, and quench again when the remaining heat in the shank reheats the ground spot to temper color. The slower cooling shank won't be too brittle to pound on.

That is so if you're careful to ensure that the shank cools to black
heat while you're quenching the tip.

I forgot once, in an instructional demo. Quenched the cutting edge,
cleaned it, saw the color come up and hastened to quench the whole
thing. Then I proposed to drive the new chisel through a 1/4" flat
bar cold. Hard blow to the chisel and I felt the shank shatter in the
gloved hand holding it. No one could see what had happened until I
opened my hand to reveal fragments. Omnes festinatio ex parte diaboli
est.

Proceeded to pass on to students the same wisdom I'm imparting here.

(Yes, did it over, did it right, and the chisel went through the 1/4"
cold as expected.)
--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
news:87pl2q4fc9.fsf@enoch.nodomain.nowhere...
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

After annealing and shaping a chisel you quench only the cutting end,
quickly grind a spot on it, and quench again when the remaining heat in
the
shank reheats the ground spot to temper color. The slower cooling shank
won't be too brittle to pound on.

That is so if you're careful to ensure that the shank cools to black
heat while you're quenching the tip.

I forgot once, in an instructional demo. Quenched the cutting edge,
cleaned it, saw the color come up and hastened to quench the whole
thing. Then I proposed to drive the new chisel through a 1/4" flat
bar cold. Hard blow to the chisel and I felt the shank shatter in the
gloved hand holding it. No one could see what had happened until I
opened my hand to reveal fragments. Omnes festinatio ex parte diaboli
est.

Proceeded to pass on to students the same wisdom I'm imparting here.

(Yes, did it over, did it right, and the chisel went through the 1/4"
cold as expected.)
--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

-----------------------------
All haste is from the devil. I had to look up 'festinatio'.

I didn't mention details I'm less sure of, such as what color to temper the cutting edge. I think I took the hardy hole cutoff chisel to dark yellow. It slowly dulls and needs sharpening rather than chipping which is slower to
fix. The upright chisel is available and quick while using the chop saw requires lugging it outdoors, and small parts with complex bends may not
clear the vise or wheel. For example I made 3/16" (5mm) wire replacement latches for a Home Depot Tote and Go folding cart whose plastic latches fell off.

Knowing what I can or can't fix may be more valuable that the repaired item.
I collect skills and capabilities and tools that enhance them.

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