From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

I'm not a big fan of gas chain saws, but your typical electric, whether
corded or cordless, doesn't have the power for heavy work. Oh, I have
gotten a lot of use breaking down branches for firewood with my little
DeWalt, but I'd never consider it if I had to do any real wood cutting
to stock up for winter like you some of guys do.

I do have a few pieces after the last time I trimmed the big mesquites
I'd like to turn into project boards. Mesquite is considered to hard
and brittle for utility projects, but its very pretty if you seal when
fresh cut before it has a chance to oxidize. Its not as hard as iron
wood, but its very durable as knife scales and makes beautiful tchotchke boxes.

The pieces are a bit to big to wield around on the band saw, if I even
still had my bigger bandsaw, and there isn't enough to justify a real
saw mill. Even a home made one like Jim's. I was thinking maybe a
chainsaw saw mill. There are some designs I think I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw. Here is the problem. I hate gas
power tools if they won't get used much. At a minimum it seems I have
to rebuild the carb every time I want to use it, and as already
mentioned the electrics just don't have the Clydesdales to do the job. Mesquite is pretty tough once it starts to dry. Green its cuttable, but
dry it gets pretty hard.

Now a blade and a chain is pretty cheap... and I do have a couple 5 HP electric motors that aren't dogeared for any project. So how about a
cheap 42" blade (nothing is really cheap anymore) plywood beam back bone electric chainsaw mill. Maybe long enough to manage 4-6 foot sections.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10rorv4$17bou$1@dont-email.me...

I'm not a big fan of gas chain saws, but your typical electric, whether
corded or cordless, doesn't have the power for heavy work. Oh, I have
gotten a lot of use breaking down branches for firewood with my little
DeWalt, but I'd never consider it if I had to do any real wood cutting
to stock up for winter like you some of guys do.

I do have a few pieces after the last time I trimmed the big mesquites
I'd like to turn into project boards. Mesquite is considered to hard
and brittle for utility projects, but its very pretty if you seal when
fresh cut before it has a chance to oxidize. Its not as hard as iron
wood, but its very durable as knife scales and makes beautiful tchotchke
boxes.

The pieces are a bit to big to wield around on the band saw, if I even
still had my bigger bandsaw, and there isn't enough to justify a real
saw mill. Even a home made one like Jim's. I was thinking maybe a
chainsaw saw mill. There are some designs I think I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw. Here is the problem. I hate gas
power tools if they won't get used much. At a minimum it seems I have
to rebuild the carb every time I want to use it, and as already
mentioned the electrics just don't have the Clydesdales to do the job.
Mesquite is pretty tough once it starts to dry. Green its cuttable, but
dry it gets pretty hard.

Now a blade and a chain is pretty cheap... and I do have a couple 5 HP
electric motors that aren't dogeared for any project. So how about a
cheap 42" blade (nothing is really cheap anymore) plywood beam back bone electric chainsaw mill. Maybe long enough to manage 4-6 foot sections.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

----------------------------------------------
I've had no carb problems with the Husqvarna 350 I bought in the late 90's
to cut my firewood, nor the smaller Stihl bought later and used less.

This is a simple way to make straight lengthwise cuts, to slab a log to less than 22" wide to fit my sawmill. https://www.northerntool.com/products/timber-tuff-lumber-cutting-guide-model-tmw-56-98497?

I suspect the troublesome parts of creating your own would be the bar oiler and splining the shaft for the sprocket. Cutting 13 snug fitting splines for
a motorcycle sprocket was difficult for me without a BS-0 indexer.

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 4/15/2026 3:08 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10rorv4$17bou$1@dont-email.me...

I'm not a big fan of gas chain saws, but your typical electric, whether corded or cordless, doesn't have the power for heavy work.-a Oh, I have gotten a lot of use breaking down branches for firewood with my little DeWalt, but I'd never consider it if I had to do any real wood cutting
to stock up for winter like you some of guys do.

I do have a few pieces after the last time I trimmed the big mesquites
I'd like to turn into project boards.-a Mesquite is considered to hard
and brittle for utility projects, but its very pretty if you seal when
fresh cut before it has a chance to oxidize.-a Its not as hard as iron
wood, but its very durable as knife scales and makes beautiful tchotchke boxes.

The pieces are a bit to big to wield around on the band saw, if I even
still had my bigger bandsaw, and there isn't enough to justify a real
saw mill.-a Even a home made one like Jim's.-a I was thinking maybe a chainsaw saw mill.-a There are some designs I think I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw.-a Here is the problem.-a I hate gas power tools if they won't get used much.-a At a minimum it seems I have
to rebuild the carb every time I want to use it, and as already
mentioned the electrics just don't have the Clydesdales to do the job. Mesquite is pretty tough once it starts to dry.-a Green its cuttable, but
dry it gets pretty hard.

Now a blade and a chain is pretty cheap... and I do have a couple 5 HP electric motors that aren't dogeared for any project.-a So how about a
cheap 42" blade (nothing is really cheap anymore) plywood beam back bone electric chainsaw mill.-a Maybe long enough to manage 4-6 foot sections.

I have a BS-0 indexer. Also a CNC mill or two or three or four
currently under power, and a couple more in project stages. If I can
draw a profile I can cut it.

Yeah, a chain oiler could be an issue, but I might be able to do
something hack job with a spray mister.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10rp3rg$19vi6$1@dont-email.me...

I was thinking maybe a chainsaw saw mill. There are some designs I think
I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw.

When I looked for a longer bar to slab a big log I found that saws more powerful than my 350 use 3/8" instead of 0.325" pitch chain, with a sprocket whose oiler drive is different.

https://canberradiamondblade.com.au/chainsaw-chain-types-guide/

5HP isn't a lot for a sawmill, commercial ones of capacity similar to mine
run 10-20HP and up.
https://woodmizer.com/us/lx50start-portable-sawmill
My first attempt used a 1/2HP Sears bandsaw and needed up to half an hour to cut one 8' x 10" plank. It was gravity fed so I only had to watch for
faults.

The word on ripping chains seems to be that they cut smoother but not as
fast. I use the chain the store has and get a decent finish when slabbing.
The wood will shrink and warp while drying and then pass through the planer.

If carefully adjusted the HF chain grinder works well.

You have the choice of moving the log or the blade and motor. I chose to
move the blade and 6.5HP gas engine over a stationary log because the track
is light enough to carry and store, 3" channel iron in 8' sections. The carriage assembly weighs less than 150 Lbs while I've cut 2 ton green oak
logs on separate height adjustable supports. This local lumber yard moves
the logs:
https://wilkinslumber.com/

Since I don't have a forklift or the open space to maneuver one I move the logs with the overhead gantry, crosswise over the center of the track. It
can also rotate them, stack the cut beams and planks and load them on a trailer. The whole cutting and storing operation fits under an HF 10' x 20' shelter with the long logs and track extensions covered separately for rain.

Good luck with it. Mine wasn't that difficult to make on a 10" lathe and
mill with a 24" table, it mainly required cutting and welding the surplus 3" channel and mostly easy lathe work for the rotating parts.

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:10rpckl$1c2v2$1@dont-email.me...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10rp3rg$19vi6$1@dont-email.me...

I was thinking maybe a chainsaw saw mill. There are some designs I think
I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw.

https://www.harborfreight.com/circular-saw-beam-cutter-attachment-58804.html?

It or the concept might be adaptable to longer bars and larger motors. For oiling a drip or mist feed on the sprocket might be enough. Bars tend to
wear unevenly despite the oiler and make the cut want to curve, then I match the two sides on a belt sander. The test for enough oil is fine spatter from the bar tip.

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 4/16/2026 6:43 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Jim Wilkins"-a wrote in message news:10rpckl$1c2v2$1@dont-email.me...

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10rp3rg$19vi6$1@dont-email.me...

I was thinking maybe a chainsaw saw mill.-a There are some designs I
think I could build pretty
darn cheap not counting the chain saw.

https://www.harborfreight.com/circular-saw-beam-cutter-attachment-58804.html?

It or the concept might be adaptable to longer bars and larger motors.
For oiling a drip or mist feed on the sprocket might be enough. Bars
tend to wear unevenly despite the oiler and make the cut want to curve,
then I match the two sides on a belt sander. The test for enough oil is
fine spatter from the bar tip.

Uneven sharpening or damaged teeth have been the root of my curved
cut problems ... it curves toward the longer/sharper tooth , which
causes uneven wear on the bar . Uneven wear opens the groove letting the
chain tilt and wear the edge out of square so if/when I see the chain
cutting a curve I swap it out immediately . I always take more than one
saw and a couple of spare chains for each .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On Wed, 15 Apr 2026 21:06:01 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

When I looked for a longer bar to slab a big log I found that saws more >powerful than my 350 use 3/8" instead of 0.325" pitch chain, with a sprocket >whose oiler drive is different.

<snip>

Oregon has a HUGE catalog with a lot of good info. Will give you part
numbers to search for not commonly found at most dealers.

https://getsharp.oregonproducts.com/product-catalog

I bought a replacement bar and chain for a new to me pole saw. Longer
bar than what they normally come with and a more appropriate chain for
my use...

Also you might want to look at their "HARVESTER
CHAINS AND GUIDE BARS".

https://online.flippingbook.com/view/77810/
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:10rqjdo$1lpvv$1@dont-email.me...

Uneven sharpening or damaged teeth have been the root of my curved
cut problems ... it curves toward the longer/sharper tooth , which
causes uneven wear on the bar . Uneven wear opens the groove letting the
chain tilt and wear the edge out of square so if/when I see the chain
cutting a curve I swap it out immediately . I always take more than one
saw and a couple of spare chains for each .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...

-------------------------

When the saw wants to curve I check both, maybe uneven cutting causes uneven bar wear, which a square easily reveals, as does the crosswise belt sanding scratching. I stone the scratches off after they cover both rails. If I
can't fix the chain by filing I use the HF grinder which sacrifices any
extra tooth length on one side but usually cleans up the chain.

Two used hacksaw blades make an 0.050" gauge and shim to hammer the slot
back to width.

I was cutting firewood across the street for which a backup saw wasn't essential, unless the tree pinched the bar of the main one.

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 4/16/2026 8:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Wed, 15 Apr 2026 21:06:01 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

When I looked for a longer bar to slab a big log I found that saws more
powerful than my 350 use 3/8" instead of 0.325" pitch chain, with a sprocket >> whose oiler drive is different.

<snip>

Oregon has a HUGE catalog with a lot of good info. Will give you part
numbers to search for not commonly found at most dealers.

I'm actually using an Oregon blade and chain on the 20V DeWalt saw. It
was an easy affordable way to run a blade a little longer than the stock blade, without going to a more expensive saw. I do have to let the saw
do the work, but its a cordless after all. Probably wouldn't have been
of much utility if I hadn't invested in the 8AH XR batteries. The 4 AH batteries were what gave me the clue since they worked on other power
hungry tools better than the 2 ah batteries most of them come with if
they even come with a battery.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10rr377$1qt3u$1@dont-email.me...

I'm actually using an Oregon blade and chain on the 20V DeWalt saw. It
was an easy affordable way to run a blade a little longer than the stock
blade, without going to a more expensive saw. I do have to let the saw
do the work, but its a cordless after all. Probably wouldn't have been
of much utility if I hadn't invested in the 8AH XR batteries. The 4 AH batteries were what gave me the clue since they worked on other power
hungry tools better than the 2 ah batteries most of them come with if
they even come with a battery.
Bob La Londe

---------------------------------
Here's some technical discussion of DeWalt battery innards, though it
doesn't mention impedance. If they increase capacity by adding parallel
stacks of the same cells more stacks will reduce the internal impedance and voltage loss. https://www.reddit.com/r/Dewalt/comments/1ershh9/dewalt_battery_schematic_temp_and_low_voltage/

The small medical Li packs I worked on had 1000 Ohm resistors across the
cells that the control circuit could switch in to balance them during
charge, by allowing part of the charging current to bypass the higher
voltage cells.

The batteries recorded their use. Those left in a hot ambulance in Arizona could lose capacity in less than a year.

--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 4/17/2026 4:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

The batteries recorded their use. Those left in a hot ambulance in
Arizona could lose capacity in less than a year.

That's a fundamental law of nature. Arizona kills batteries.

A buddy of mine is a retired fire captain. (Mostly drove ambulance.) I
might ask him what sort of portable battery tools and equipment they
carried and how they held up. I seem to recall all (most?) of their
fire stations have indoor parking for both ambulances and firetrucks.
Maybe that might throw off the results. Shade makes a huge difference
in cabin temperature.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21f-Linux NewsLink 1.2