On 4/10/2026 5:47 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I don't mean sets.-a I mean multiples all the same size.-a I can make
them of course, but with material, and machine time its a wash with
what I have found so far.
https://www.yumabassman.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/20260411_163118.jpg
Here is the main body of the bender.-a While not large you can see its
built rather heavy duty.-a This is actually the second failed attempt to prove up the process on this part.-a I trusted the numbers from HSM
adviser for drilling and broke off two drill bits.-a For this one I let Google's AI give me some numbers to try and they worked fine, but I
grabbed the wrong tool and put the clearance holes instead of the tap
drill size in the machine for some accessories that screw to the face. Oops.-a LOL.
As I mentioned before Google's AI is very biased politically and in
regards to the law, but the technical side is decent.
For this one I let Google's AI give me some numbers to try and they worked fine, but I grabbed the wrong tool and put the clearance holes instead of the tap drill size in the machine for some accessories that screw to the face. Oops. LOL.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sbc25$2htdp$1@dont-email.me...
For this one I let Google's AI give me some numbers to try and they
worked fine, but I grabbed the wrong tool and put the clearance holes
instead of the tap drill size in the machine for some accessories that
screw to the face. Oops.-a LOL.
Shoulder screw (stripper bolts) shanks position more accurately and
resist shear better than threads. You could use them in the clearance
holes to salvage the part. It looks nice enough to complete and show off.
I used them in reamed holes to attach the fixed jaw and clamp screw
mounts to the flat base of a milling vise for my 6" lathe, which lacks
the power to require more solid one piece construction that I didn't
have the thick steel or remaining class time to machine.
The projects that lathe couldn't handle convinced me to buy the larger Clausing mill and South Bend lathe. The 6" spins faster for deep
drilling and the grinding/polishing the dealer warned to avoid on the hardened bed SB. I used it to make a miniature hole saw to free frozen screws on a mobility scooter that had been rained on.
Hydraulic gear pumps and motors are assembled from a sandwich of plates precisely aligned and clamped with hollow dowels and through bolts. https://www.vogelsangfastener.com/products/ground-hollow-dowels-inch- metric/
I just tapped it for Helicoils. I will finish this one as a prototype. I might even finish the one with drill broken off inside of it. ...
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sg8mq$2657h$1@dont-email.me...
I just tapped it for Helicoils.-a I will finish this one as a
prototype. I might even finish the one with drill broken off inside of
it.-a ...
Either nitric acid or alum is claimed to dissolve steel without harming aluminum.
Alum is a harmless ag store supply while nitric acid may raise red flags.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sg8mq$2657h$1@dont-email.me...
I just tapped it for Helicoils.-a I will finish this one as a
prototype. I might even finish the one with drill broken off inside of
it.-a ...
Either nitric acid or alum is claimed to dissolve steel without harming aluminum.
Alum is a harmless ag store supply while nitric acid may raise red flags.
If its purely cosmetic I can back drill, drive out the bit, and then ream and plug, but only for my own use.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sgesi$a3nu$1@dont-email.me...
If its purely cosmetic I can back drill, drive out the bit, and then
ream and plug, but only for my own use.
For those without CNC, the hole on the back side can be centered under
the spindle by clamping an upright point, plug or stub drill shank in
the vise and positioning it under the spindle to locate the hole on. It could be transferred from the chuck. Tee slot clamps could hold the part
in place on the vise jaw tops.
The drill may be damaged or break at contact with the stuck one, I'd use
a small easily replaced bit like 1/8".
On 4/24/2026 2:55 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sgesi$a3nu$1@dont-email.me...
If its purely cosmetic I can back drill, drive out the bit, and then
ream and plug, but only for my own use.
For those without CNC, the hole on the back side can be centered under
the spindle by clamping an upright point, plug or stub drill shank in
the vise and positioning it under the spindle to locate the hole on.
It could be transferred from the chuck. Tee slot clamps could hold the
part in place on the vise jaw tops.
The drill may be damaged or break at contact with the stuck one, I'd
use a small easily replaced bit like 1/8".
Or since I know all the reference points and locations, I could just use
an edge finder to set my zeros and move to the location.-a Can be done
with hand wheels or with a DRO.
Or I could use the working model with a transfer punch... after I knock
the tangs out of the Helicoils.
Trust me I don't like programming up a tiny little job if I don't have to.
It doesn't bother me in the least to waste a drill saving a part.-a I buy common sizes in batches in screw machine lengths.-a 7, 21, D, F of
course, but a few others as well.-a When drill two hits drill one it
ruins the point, and I still have a web of metal, but usually a punch
will go through it.-a The biggest issue really is if I have enough lead
in to keep the punch straight.-a I suppose I should make up some sort of chuck to use pins on one of the presses for that, but its not something
I have to do everyday.
Usually I don't throw the drill away.-a I just put it in my drill
dispenser drawers loose so I know its used and probably needs to be reground.-a New drills stay in the tubes they came in.
I and others with simpler equipment (if any remain) may be modifying existing parts, perhaps cast or stamped, for repair.
On 4/24/2026 7:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 4/24/2026 2:55 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sgesi$a3nu$1@dont-email.me...
If its purely cosmetic I can back drill, drive out the bit, and then
ream and plug, but only for my own use.
For those without CNC, the hole on the back side can be centered
under the spindle by clamping an upright point, plug or stub drill
shank in the vise and positioning it under the spindle to locate the
hole on. It could be transferred from the chuck. Tee slot clamps
could hold the part in place on the vise jaw tops.
The drill may be damaged or break at contact with the stuck one, I'd
use a small easily replaced bit like 1/8".
Or since I know all the reference points and locations, I could just
use an edge finder to set my zeros and move to the location.-a Can be
done with hand wheels or with a DRO.
Or I could use the working model with a transfer punch... after I
knock the tangs out of the Helicoils.
Trust me I don't like programming up a tiny little job if I don't have
to.
It doesn't bother me in the least to waste a drill saving a part.-a I
buy common sizes in batches in screw machine lengths.-a 7, 21, D, F of
course, but a few others as well.-a When drill two hits drill one it
ruins the point, and I still have a web of metal, but usually a punch
will go through it.-a The biggest issue really is if I have enough lead
in to keep the punch straight.-a I suppose I should make up some sort
of chuck to use pins on one of the presses for that, but its not
something I have to do everyday.
Usually I don't throw the drill away.-a I just put it in my drill
dispenser drawers loose so I know its used and probably needs to be
reground.-a New drills stay in the tubes they came in.
-a I love machinery porn .
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sh0n6$fdtu$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/24/2026 2:55 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Or since I know all the reference points and locations, I could just use
an edge finder to set my zeros and move to the location.-a Can be done
with hand wheels or with a DRO.
Or I could use the working model with a transfer punch... after I knock
the tangs out of the Helicoils.
Trust me I don't like programming up a tiny little job if I don't have to.
It doesn't bother me in the least to waste a drill saving a part.-a I buy common sizes in batches in screw machine lengths.-a 7, 21, D, F of
course, but a few others as well.-a When drill two hits drill one it
ruins the point, and I still have a web of metal, but usually a punch
will go through it.-a The biggest issue really is if I have enough lead
in to keep the punch straight.-a I suppose I should make up some sort of chuck to use pins on one of the presses for that, but its not something
I have to do everyday.
Usually I don't throw the drill away.-a I just put it in my drill
dispenser drawers loose so I know its used and probably needs to be reground.-a New drills stay in the tubes they came in.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10siu9r$10eac$1@dont-email.me...
...
I think you mistake me.-a My first machining projects were done with no
more than a drill, a circular saw with an abrasive blade, and a bench grinder.-a One of the first projects I asked for help with in this group around 30 years ago was making a recessed panel on blank aluminum
electrical cover plates.
--------------------------
Please don't take my low tech approach comments as aimed at you, they
are grouped with yours to appear if someone else finds and reads the discussion. Someone starting with basic equipment, perhaps.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sjmst$18nnu$1@dont-email.me...
(P.S.-a I have aligned wheels that way, and even used it to check trailer axles before and after bending.)
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
---------------------------------
The low tech wheel alignment I learned was to jack them up and scribe a
line in the adhering dust with a screwdriver tip on a steady rest (jack stand?) while rotating them. That was for dirt track racers, I used
spray paint and marked while wet. The line may show you why not to use
the tread pattern. Lower them, roll back and forth to settle and measure between the lines fore and aft. If lacking a tape measure and assistant, long enough wood or metal can be raised on boxes and aligned on one
side, then marked on the other.
The front wheels must be straight ahead, they turn to different angles
to compensate for different inner and outer turning circles. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
For rear wheel drive the fronts should toe in "a little" to compensate
for rolling resistance, like 1/16" to 1/8", for front drive they should
toe out at rest and straighten under load. The test is driving over newspaper to see if the tires tear or shred it.
In the rare case of having a Chilton's or Haynes manual it may give the acceptable range, though for my Ranger Haynes says go to a competent alignment shop. This trick can at least get you there. The factory
manual gives -# 0.13".
Writing this was useful, it led me to the bag of roof rack mounts I need
to reinstall, which were under the Ranger book. It would have been in
the truck but I stripped the cab of all but the driver's seat to patch
rust holes in the floor. The rack interferes with clearing off snow.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10sjmst$18nnu$1@dont-email.me...
(P.S. I have aligned wheels that way, and even used it to check trailer axles before and after bending.)
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
---------------------------------
The low tech wheel alignment I learned was to jack them up and scribe a
line in the adhering dust with a screwdriver tip on a steady rest (jack stand?) while rotating them. That was for dirt track racers, I used spray paint and marked while wet. The line may show you why not to use the tread pattern. Lower them, roll back and forth to settle and measure between the lines fore and aft. If lacking a tape measure and assistant, long enough wood or metal can be raised on boxes and aligned on one side, then marked
on the other.
The front wheels must be straight ahead, they turn to different angles to compensate for different inner and outer turning circles. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
For rear wheel drive the fronts should toe in "a little" to compensate for rolling resistance, like 1/16" to 1/8", for front drive they should toe
out at rest and straighten under load. The test is driving over newspaper
to see if the tires tear or shred it.
In the rare case of having a Chilton's or Haynes manual it may give the acceptable range, though for my Ranger Haynes says go to a competent alignment shop. This trick can at least get you there. The factory manual gives -# 0.13".
Writing this was useful, it led me to the bag of roof rack mounts I need
to reinstall, which were under the Ranger book. It would have been in the truck but I stripped the cab of all but the driver's seat to patch rust holes in the floor. The rack interferes with clearing off snow.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sm3s6$1u284$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/26/2026 5:24 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10sjmst$18nnu$1@dont-email.me...
(P.S.-a I have aligned wheels that way, and even used it to check trailer
axles before and after bending.)
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
---------------------------------
The low tech wheel alignment I learned was to jack them up and scribe
a line in the adhering dust with a screwdriver tip on a steady rest
(jack stand?) while rotating them. That was for dirt track racers, I
used spray paint and marked while wet. The line may show you why not
to use the tread pattern. Lower them, roll back and forth to settle
and measure between the lines fore and aft. If lacking a tape measure
and assistant, long enough wood or metal can be raised on boxes and
aligned on one side, then marked on the other.
The front wheels must be straight ahead, they turn to different angles
to compensate for different inner and outer turning circles.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
For rear wheel drive the fronts should toe in "a little" to compensate
for rolling resistance, like 1/16" to 1/8", for front drive they
should toe out at rest and straighten under load. The test is driving
over newspaper to see if the tires tear or shred it.
In the rare case of having a Chilton's or Haynes manual it may give
the acceptable range, though for my Ranger Haynes says go to a
competent alignment shop. This trick can at least get you there. The
factory manual gives -# 0.13".
Writing this was useful, it led me to the bag of roof rack mounts I
need to reinstall, which were under the Ranger book. It would have
been in the truck but I stripped the cab of all but the driver's seat
to patch rust holes in the floor. The rack interferes with clearing
off snow.
See, you had to go complicate everything.-a A nail makes a nice mark all
by itself (when pushed through a 2x4), and its easy because all you have
to do is stand on the 2x4 when you spin the tire.-a A nail is also a lot cheaper or maybe even free.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--------------------------------
My first lessons in auto mechanics came from Army motor pools and hobby racers who used the facilities, and couldn't buy tools without knowing German and metric.
were as isolated as in a jungle. At the garage or track you may not have
a nail or 2x4 though there are assistants and perhaps tent or flag
poles, I still keep tape measures in the car tool kits. We set breaker
and spark plug gaps with matchbook cardboard. My electrical tester was a tail light bulb and wired socket with roach clips. I learned to judge
fuel mixture by exhaust smell and release the crinkle that is locking a
dent before pounding it out.
I just bought the HF kit with the door skin hammer and slapper to tackle copying the stiffening ridge pattern of my 91 Ranger's floor closely
enough for a flush welded patch. A replacement floor pan includes the no longer needed rubber plugged drain hole that trapped tire spray salt and rusted forward from its front edge, my temporary bolted and caulked
practice patches extend the central ridges across the openings and are stiffer.
It's the smaller oval the valleys drain into in this similar one. The
step behind supports the seat. I think Ford dipped the welded cab into a
vat of heat-cure primer to appease the EPA and those lowest point holes
were to drain it. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Floor-Pan-Right-1983-90/productinfo/94042/
My first lessons in auto mechanics came from Army motor pools and
hobby racers who used the facilities, and couldn't buy tools without
knowing German and metric.
My first lesson in automatics
me a socket set for Christmas.-a When we went back to work the next day
at the grocery store he walked me out back, pointed at the M38 engine (I know what it is now) that went in his GPW, and said "Take that apart and sort out the pieces on sheets from cardboard boxes.
Our smaller Kasernes lacked an exchange so most GIs
were as isolated as in a jungle. At the garage or track you may not
have a nail or 2x4 though there are assistants and perhaps tent or
flag poles, I still keep tape measures in the car tool kits. We set
breaker
If I used a screwdriver as a scratch awl I would have gotten my ass beat (until I was big enough to fight back), but there were always old boards with nails in them laying around.-a As a kid I put a nail through my foot while bending over nails with my foot to keep other people from stepping
on them.-a LOL.
and spark plug gaps with matchbook cardboard. My electrical tester was
a tail light bulb and wired socket with roach clips. I learned to
judge fuel mixture by exhaust smell and release the crinkle that is
locking a dent before pounding it out.
I have used match book covers to set points gaps.-a Cleaned off carbon
arc with sand paper wrapped around a popsicle stick too.-a I still think
it worked better than an actual points file.
I just bought the HF kit with the door skin hammer and slapper to
tackle copying the stiffening ridge pattern of my 91 Ranger's floor
closely enough for a flush welded patch. A replacement floor pan
includes the no longer needed rubber plugged drain hole that trapped
tire spray salt and rusted forward from its front edge, my temporary
bolted and caulked practice patches extend the central ridges across
the openings and are stiffer.
It's the smaller oval the valleys drain into in this similar one. The
step behind supports the seat. I think Ford dipped the welded cab into
a vat of heat-cure primer to appease the EPA and those lowest point
holes were to drain it.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Floor-Pan-Right-1983-90/
productinfo/94042/
----
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
I actually have a couple points files now, but I have a whole case of popsicle sticks. Popsicle sticks are much more useful for the genericness of their use.
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