It will mprobably clear in awhile. I finished the Merckx and want to test it.
I got a goatshead thorn in my rear Colnago tire but could not find it inside the tire or innertube. But it went flat again overnight.
I took the Merckx out. The front derailleur wasn't working properly but I came to a couple of conclusions: the Merckx San Remo steers better than the Time or Colnago C-RS but it is detectably stiffer. I also have a 3D printed saddle on it. While this was a pretty short ride at 27 miles I picked up no sore spots.
Though it took 30 minutes or so to get used to0 the somewhat cushiony feel. T need to get the front derailleur working properly. It has that pain-in-the-ass outer cable "lock" which you have to be careful with because if it isn't set exactly correct the handlebar tape pulls it out and there is then enough flex in the inner so that the front derailleur doesn't work properly.
If you were going to buy an Eddie Merckx because they are cheap for their quality I would look at the EM-1,2 or 3.
On 9/27/2026 4:51 PM, cyclintom wrote:Well I could see the thorn in the tire and tried to remove it. I must have been successful because I couldn't find it. But it was only an inch from the filler so if it penetrated the innertube pumping it up quite a ways should have revealed a leak. But it must have been so slow that I couldn't find it. I will pump it up twice as fat and see if I can find it. If that fails I will replace the valve core with the expensive ones I have. Stock ones have almost invisible O-rings that fail if you put any bending pressure from the pump.
It will mprobably clear in awhile. I finished the Merckx and want to test it.
I got a goatshead thorn in my rear Colnago tire but could not find it inside the tire or innertube. But it went flat again overnight.
I took the Merckx out. The front derailleur wasn't working properly but I came to a couple of conclusions: the Merckx San Remo steers better than the Time or Colnago C-RS but it is detectably stiffer. I also have a 3D printed saddle on it. While this was a pretty short ride at 27 miles I picked up no sore spots.
Though it took 30 minutes or so to get used to0 the somewhat cushiony feel. T need to get the front derailleur working properly. It has that pain-in-the-ass outer cable "lock" which you have to be careful with because if it isn't set exactly correct the handlebar tape pulls it out and there is then enough flex in the inner so that the front derailleur doesn't work properly.
If you were going to buy an Eddie Merckx because they are cheap for their quality I would look at the EM-1,2 or 3.
Two pro tips you may find helpful:
Before demounting a tire, mark the tire, rim and valve on
one side. Once apart, find your puncture and then you will
know two important things. The puncture is either on the
inside (rim or rim liner problem) or the outside (object
penetrated tire or tire failed) AND you'll know exactly
where to look for a problem. The last is very important when
looking for a small portion of a thorn or a small wire or
piece of syringe needle.
We wrap the gear and/or brake casing on the inside of the
first handlebar bend with clear vinyl packing tape and then
set up brake and gear systems. And only then wash hands and
wrap the tape. You're right that cables with no tension
don't move the casing position(s).
On 9/27/2026 4:51 PM, cyclintom wrote:
It will mprobably clear in awhile. I finished the Merckx and want to
test it.
I got a goatshead thorn in my rear Colnago tire but could not find it
inside the tire or innertube. But it went flat again overnight.
I took the Merckx out. The front derailleur wasn't working properly
but I came to a couple of conclusions: the Merckx San Remo steers
better than the Time or Colnago C-RS but it is detectably stiffer. I
also have a 3D printed saddle on it. While this was a pretty short
ride at 27 miles I picked up no sore spots.
Though it took 30 minutes or so to get used to0 the somewhat cushiony
feel. T need to get the front derailleur working properly. It has that
pain-in-the-ass outer cable "lock" which you have to be careful with
because if it isn't set exactly correct the handlebar tape pulls it
out and there is then enough flex in the inner so that the front
derailleur doesn't work properly.
If you were going to buy an Eddie Merckx because they are cheap for
their quality I would look at the EM-1,2 or 3.
Two pro tips you may find helpful:
Before demounting a tire, mark the tire, rim and valve on one side. Once apart, find your puncture and then you will know two important things.
The puncture is either on the inside (rim or rim liner problem) or the outside (object penetrated tire or tire failed) AND you'll know exactly where to look for a problem. The last is very important when looking for
a small portion of a thorn or a small wire or piece of syringe needle.
We wrap the gear and/or brake casing on the inside of the first
handlebar bend with clear vinyl packing tape and then set up brake and
gear systems. And only then wash hands and wrap the tape. You're right
that cables with no tension don't move the casing position(s).
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