• todays basic ride irritation

    From Mark J cleary@mcleary08@comcast.net to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 12:50:43 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the
    mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Well I got home and took it all off and ended up using plumbers tape
    around the whole screw length. This have it the friction need as it went through back of the mirror and going into the screw holed help it too.
    Funny how little things that cost zero to repair can be quite irritating
    if not just right. The mirror has to be ridged so it won't move
    vibrating yet if you apply enough hand torque you can still make an on
    the fly adjustment.

    I don't care what anyone tells me helmets and mirrors are a must have.
    On the road bike I have helmet mirror that works great but sitting on
    the catrike your head is back enough the the correct angle is pretty
    hard to get to but the side review mirrors is really good. Oh and I lost
    my flag, not the pole had to stop and get it as it came off but have not
    found the flag yet. The flag is badge of honor on a trike.
    --
    Deacon Mark

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 12:04:25 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 12:50:43 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the >mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Not enough friction at the screw head. Removable Loctite (blue) isn't
    going to help and non-removable (red) will make the screw setting
    permanent and non-adjustable. <https://www.loctiteproducts.com/ideas/build-things/threadlocker-red-or-blue-which-ones-right-for-you.html>

    Instead, I suggest you cram something flexible into the screw hole and
    tighten the screw. I suggest solder, leather, rubber, gasket
    material, or whatever you can find. Whatever you decide, select
    something that can later be removed with a tap.

    A 3mm Allen drive suggests a M5 screw. If the screw comes to a point,
    replace it with a screw with a cup or flat point to get a larger
    contact area. <https://www.epco-sales.com/fasteners/socket-products/set-screw/fmssso0508> <https://clubtechnical.com/set-screw>
    Adjust screw threading and length to fit.

    If the screw is loose from over-tightening, consider wrapping the
    screw in PTFE (Teflon) tape. If desperate, re-tapping the hole to the
    next larger thread size might work.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Catrike Ryder@Soloman@old.bikers.org to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 15:17:10 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 12:50:43 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the >mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Well I got home and took it all off and ended up using plumbers tape
    around the whole screw length. This have it the friction need as it went >through back of the mirror and going into the screw holed help it too.
    Funny how little things that cost zero to repair can be quite irritating
    if not just right. The mirror has to be ridged so it won't move
    vibrating yet if you apply enough hand torque you can still make an on
    the fly adjustment.

    I don't care what anyone tells me helmets and mirrors are a must have.
    On the road bike I have helmet mirror that works great but sitting on
    the catrike your head is back enough the the correct angle is pretty
    hard to get to but the side review mirrors is really good. Oh and I lost
    my flag, not the pole had to stop and get it as it came off but have not >found the flag yet. The flag is badge of honor on a trike.

    It's not a Catrike mirror its a Mirrycle Mirror and they are too
    expensive and too fragile. I broke several before I gave up on them.
    I use Hafny Bike Mirrors. They are stainless steel, not glass and mine
    are probably ten years old and still good as new. https://www.amazon.com/Hafny-M0nday-Stainless-Rearview-HF-MR083/dp/B01AVHQB22?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

    As for helmets, and flags.... not for me....


    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman
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  • From Mark J cleary@mcleary08@comcast.net to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 14:16:36 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On 8/31/2026 2:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 12:50:43 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the
    mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Not enough friction at the screw head. Removable Loctite (blue) isn't
    going to help and non-removable (red) will make the screw setting
    permanent and non-adjustable. <https://www.loctiteproducts.com/ideas/build-things/threadlocker-red-or-blue-which-ones-right-for-you.html>

    Instead, I suggest you cram something flexible into the screw hole and tighten the screw. I suggest solder, leather, rubber, gasket
    material, or whatever you can find. Whatever you decide, select
    something that can later be removed with a tap.

    A 3mm Allen drive suggests a M5 screw. If the screw comes to a point, replace it with a screw with a cup or flat point to get a larger
    contact area. <https://www.epco-sales.com/fasteners/socket-products/set-screw/fmssso0508> <https://clubtechnical.com/set-screw>
    Adjust screw threading and length to fit.

    If the screw is loose from over-tightening, consider wrapping the
    screw in PTFE (Teflon) tape. If desperate, re-tapping the hole to the
    next larger thread size might work.

    That is exactly what I did if you read the post again. I added plumbers
    tape also know as Teflon tape to the screw and now it hold quite tight.
    --
    Deacon Mark
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  • From AMuzi@am@yellowjersey.org to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 14:32:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On 8/31/2026 2:17 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 12:50:43 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the
    mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Well I got home and took it all off and ended up using plumbers tape
    around the whole screw length. This have it the friction need as it went
    through back of the mirror and going into the screw holed help it too.
    Funny how little things that cost zero to repair can be quite irritating
    if not just right. The mirror has to be ridged so it won't move
    vibrating yet if you apply enough hand torque you can still make an on
    the fly adjustment.

    I don't care what anyone tells me helmets and mirrors are a must have.
    On the road bike I have helmet mirror that works great but sitting on
    the catrike your head is back enough the the correct angle is pretty
    hard to get to but the side review mirrors is really good. Oh and I lost
    my flag, not the pole had to stop and get it as it came off but have not
    found the flag yet. The flag is badge of honor on a trike.

    It's not a Catrike mirror its a Mirrycle Mirror and they are too
    expensive and too fragile. I broke several before I gave up on them.
    I use Hafny Bike Mirrors. They are stainless steel, not glass and mine
    are probably ten years old and still good as new. https://www.amazon.com/Hafny-M0nday-Stainless-Rearview-HF-MR083/dp/B01AVHQB22?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

    As for helmets, and flags.... not for me....


    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    +1 on Hafny stainless mirrors.

    Besides not smashing in a fall, the mounts are very well
    designed and produced
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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  • From Jeff Liebermann@jeffl@cruzio.com to rec.bicycles.tech on Mon Aug 31 14:19:49 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 14:16:36 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    On 8/31/2026 2:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Mon, 31 Aug 2026 12:50:43 -0500, Mark J cleary
    <mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:

    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as >>> the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the
    mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Not enough friction at the screw head. Removable Loctite (blue) isn't
    going to help and non-removable (red) will make the screw setting
    permanent and non-adjustable.
    <https://www.loctiteproducts.com/ideas/build-things/threadlocker-red-or-blue-which-ones-right-for-you.html>

    Instead, I suggest you cram something flexible into the screw hole and
    tighten the screw. I suggest solder, leather, rubber, gasket
    material, or whatever you can find. Whatever you decide, select
    something that can later be removed with a tap.

    A 3mm Allen drive suggests a M5 screw. If the screw comes to a point,
    replace it with a screw with a cup or flat point to get a larger
    contact area.
    <https://www.epco-sales.com/fasteners/socket-products/set-screw/fmssso0508> >> <https://clubtechnical.com/set-screw>
    Adjust screw threading and length to fit.

    If the screw is loose from over-tightening, consider wrapping the
    screw in PTFE (Teflon) tape. If desperate, re-tapping the hole to the
    next larger thread size might work.

    That is exactly what I did if you read the post again. I added plumbers
    tape also know as Teflon tape to the screw and now it hold quite tight.

    Sorry. I thought you meant this type of plumbers tape: <https://www.google.com/search?q=metal%20plumbers%20tape&udm=2>
    I avoid calling anything "plumbers tape" or "electricians" tape
    because these terms are easily misinterpreted. To keep things simple,
    I call the tape intended for sealing pipe threads (white) and gas
    lines (yellow) Teflon tape, thread sealing tape, or PTFE tape. For
    plumbing, I use perforated pipe hanger tape and PTFE thread sealant
    tape.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From zen cycle@funkmasterxx@hotmail.com to rec.bicycles.tech on Thu Sep 3 06:06:02 2026
    From Newsgroup: rec.bicycles.tech

    On 8/31/2026 1:50 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
    My rant today is the Catrike Mirror. It keeps getting loose over time as
    the aluminum frame probably chatters more than any other type of frame.
    It takes 3mm hex key and I notice yesterday as tight as I could get the mirror is still dropped down due to not enough friction created in the
    screw attachment. Today is keep dropping down and I use that puppy all
    the time and must have on the bike.

    Well I got home and took it all off and ended up using plumbers tape
    around the whole screw length. This have it the friction need as it went through back of the mirror and going into the screw holed help it too.
    Funny how little things that cost zero to repair can be quite irritating
    if not just right. The mirror has to be ridged so it won't move
    vibrating yet if you apply enough hand torque you can still make an on
    the fly adjustment.

    I don't care what anyone tells me helmets and mirrors are a must have.
    On the road bike I have helmet mirror that works great but sitting on
    the catrike your head is back enough the the correct angle is pretty
    hard to get to but the side review mirrors is really good. Oh and I lost
    my flag, not the pole had to stop and get it as it came off but have not found the flag yet. The flag is badge of honor on a trike.

    I use RTV silicone sealant in these applications. RTV is an initialism
    for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. You can think of it as an industrial
    version of window/bathtub sealing caulk. Sometimes called a 'gasket maker'.

    Works as a semi-permanent adhesive that is removable without much
    trouble, as well as being weatherproof and relatively resistant to most chemicals, so protects against corrosion as well. I find it to be exceptionally effective as a thread locker. It's clear so it doesn't
    hide features (though it's available in black). It sticks to pretty much everything except items that may be coated with any type of oil. It's
    sold in auto parts stores and hardware stores.

    Simply coat both sides of whatever it is you're trying to hold together, tighten everything down, then wipe away the excess. In your case, coat
    not only the screw, but also the inside of the clamp and the bar where
    you're mounting the mirror. Make sure all the parts are clean and dry.

    It can cure in the tube after it's been opened so make sure you close it tightly, but still an opened but sealed tube can last well over a year.

    My company uses a Mil Spec version (Dow 3145) of it for sealing fuel
    sensors and around some components in assemblies that are to be coated
    with epoxy. Since it does have a shelf-life they have to do a regular
    stock purge for "expired" unopened tubes - literally throwing it away. I
    still have the better part of a case from the last purge.



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