If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
On Mon Aug 17 21:31:47 2026 cyclintomHow to thg wrote:
If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
On Sat Aug 22 14:37:03 2026 AMuzi wrote:
On 8/22/2026 2:09 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 17 21:31:47 2026 cyclintomHow to thg wrote:
If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
There's truth in that- Different frames use different
techniques.
Some are best done by positioning the chainstay vertically
before dropping the wire straight down and out.
On others, the path inside is not smooth and straight
enough. A 1/16" steel welding rod may be better. Once
through, cover it with a plastic sleeve, withdraw rod, pass
wire through.
Some techs like a thread or string pulled through with a
vacuum cleaner followed by the wire. Others use small strong
magnets (cobalt, neodymium, etc) with a Kevlar string to
lead the wire. example:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1-2
For main tube ports, a section of 15-17g butted spoke formed
with a small hook can be used effectively to pull up the wire.
As it turns out, I cannot extract the rear derailleur wire fron the chain stay because it isn't straignt enough to use that turbing trick. But I can thread the wire all of the way to the back where I can see it. So I probably can use the super magnet to pull it up to the point where is will extract itself. I'll have to see if I can find it. It is also useful for moving spoke nipples to the correct position in rims withough nipple holes on the outside rim liner.
On 8/22/2026 2:09 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 17 21:31:47 2026 cyclintomHow to thg wrote:
If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
As it turns out, I cannot extract the rear derailleur wire fron the chain stay because it isn't straignt enough to use that turbing trick. But I can thread the wire all of the way to the back where I can see it. So I probably can use the super magnet to pull it up to the point where is will extract itself. I'll have to see if I can find it. It is also useful for moving spoke nipples to the correct position in rims withough nipple holes on the outside rim liner.Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
There's truth in that- Different frames use different
techniques.
Some are best done by positioning the chainstay vertically
before dropping the wire straight down and out.
On others, the path inside is not smooth and straight
enough. A 1/16" steel welding rod may be better. Once
through, cover it with a plastic sleeve, withdraw rod, pass
wire through.
Some techs like a thread or string pulled through with a
vacuum cleaner followed by the wire. Others use small strong
magnets (cobalt, neodymium, etc) with a Kevlar string to
lead the wire. example: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1-2
For main tube ports, a section of 15-17g butted spoke formed
with a small hook can be used effectively to pull up the wire.
On 8/27/2026 5:45 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Sat Aug 22 14:37:03 2026 AMuzi wrote:
On 8/22/2026 2:09 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 17 21:31:47 2026 cyclintomHow to thg wrote:
If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
There's truth in that- Different frames use different
techniques.
Some are best done by positioning the chainstay vertically
before dropping the wire straight down and out.
On others, the path inside is not smooth and straight
enough. A 1/16" steel welding rod may be better. Once
through, cover it with a plastic sleeve, withdraw rod, pass
wire through.
Some techs like a thread or string pulled through with a
vacuum cleaner followed by the wire. Others use small strong
magnets (cobalt, neodymium, etc) with a Kevlar string to
lead the wire. example:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1-2 >>>
For main tube ports, a section of 15-17g butted spoke formed
with a small hook can be used effectively to pull up the wire.
As it turns out, I cannot extract the rear derailleur wire fron the chain stay because it isn't straignt enough to use that turbing trick. But I can thread the wire all of the way to the back where I can see it. So I probably can use the super magnet to pull it up to the point where is will extract itself. I'll have to see if I can find it. It is also useful for moving spoke nipples to the correct position in rims withough nipple holes on the outside rim liner.
Where do you find steel nipples nowadays?
On Thu, 27 Aug 2026 17:53:51 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/27/2026 5:45 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Sat Aug 22 14:37:03 2026 AMuzi wrote:
On 8/22/2026 2:09 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 17 21:31:47 2026 cyclintomHow to thg wrote:
If you have tried this it is impossible. But what you can do is get a small diameter hollow tube. You insert this into the rear wire exit and push it up to the BB. pull off the crank, `and work the tube over the BB shield. You now have a direct route from the shield to the chain stay exit to push the shift wire through put it into the rear derailleur outer then the oloop and make the wire secure.
You can also do this for the front wires as well, though I didn't have any problems with sinply puswhing the wires down and having them exit at the forward slot of the shield. I would prefer leaving the tube in but I will see if there's enough room when I get the tube.
I found this hint on a YouTube video but it was a different type of inner cabling altogether.
Also, I found out why I was having trould putting in a new innertube. You have to inflate the tubes a little. I already knew that but forgot it with the stroke.
Threading interior cables is a pain in the ass in any event though I imagine if you do the same model enough times you could make it look easy.
There's truth in that- Different frames use different
techniques.
Some are best done by positioning the chainstay vertically
before dropping the wire straight down and out.
On others, the path inside is not smooth and straight
enough. A 1/16" steel welding rod may be better. Once
through, cover it with a plastic sleeve, withdraw rod, pass
wire through.
Some techs like a thread or string pulled through with a
vacuum cleaner followed by the wire. Others use small strong
magnets (cobalt, neodymium, etc) with a Kevlar string to
lead the wire. example:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1-2 >>>>
For main tube ports, a section of 15-17g butted spoke formed
with a small hook can be used effectively to pull up the wire.
As it turns out, I cannot extract the rear derailleur wire fron the chain stay because it isn't straignt enough to use that turbing trick. But I can thread the wire all of the way to the back where I can see it. So I probably can use the super magnet to pull it up to the point where is will extract itself. I'll have to see if I can find it. It is also useful for moving spoke nipples to the correct position in rims withough nipple holes on the outside rim liner.
Where do you find steel nipples nowadays?
In BMX shops.
"Bicycle Spoke Nipple for 11-Gauge Spokes Steel CP" <https://www.huskybicycles.com/bicycle-spoke-nipple-for-11-gauge-spokes-steel-cp.html>
"Pack 100 spoke nipples, 11-gauge, 14mm, chrome-plated steel."
"Bike Spoke Nipples Steel Spoke Nipples Mountain Bicycle Spoke Cap for
14G 40Pcs 6 * 14mm" <https://www.amazon.com/Spoke-Nipples-Steel-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B0B4P2NFHF> "[Material]: Made of steel, strength and color coated, corrosion
resistance."
"Spoke Nipple Cn Steel Oem 2.0X16Mm Silver" <https://velomine.com/products/spoke-nipple-cn-steel-oem-2-0x16mm-silver> "Material: Steel"
"Spoke nipple material choices/Why not steel nipples?" <https://www.reddit.com/r/BicycleEngineering/comments/c2zrx8/spoke_nipple_material_choiceswhy_not_steel_nipples/>
"The spokes are stainless steel. Why are the nipples not also
(stainless) steel?"
For automotive wire wheels: <https://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/nipples_nickle_plated_steel.asp> "Nickel Plated Steel Nipples"
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