OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the
left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion
Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the
left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion
Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the
left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion
Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week.
I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too
lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement. Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels.
At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 8/15/2026 1:16 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still >>>>>> range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around >>>>>> and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week.
I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too
lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old
scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free
shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement. Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels.
At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Generally, hubs far outlast rims. Any reason you don't just
build new spokes and rims on your hubs? We do a steady
stream of those builds here.
On 8/15/2026 1:16 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still >>>>>> range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around >>>>>> and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week.
I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too
lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old
scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free
shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement. Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels.
At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Generally, hubs far outlast rims. Any reason you don't just
build new spokes and rims on your hubs? We do a steady
stream of those builds here.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 13:33:37 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 1:16 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still >>>>>>> range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around >>>>>>> and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week.
I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too
lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old
scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free
shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement. Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels.
At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Generally, hubs far outlast rims. Any reason you don't just
build new spokes and rims on your hubs? We do a steady
stream of those builds here.
I had originally planned on doing that because the hubs are still
good. I'd replaced the bearings in them twice and I did buy one new
wheel to use while I rebuilt them.
I discovered an issue about getting the tension checking device in
between the shorter spokes to check the underneath spokes and even
checking the top spokes around the bend seemed problematic.
I thought maybe to build the wheels without checking tension, but
unsure if it would work, I hesitated on destroying my old wheels and
started looking for all new stuff to experiment with.
When I couldn't even find hubs, I called the whole thing off and
bought another complete wheel.
If you build twenty inch wheels, I'm curious how you check tension.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Zephyr trike On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 15:04:54 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 2:50 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 13:33:37 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 1:16 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension >>>>>>>>> while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much. >>>>>>>>>
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will >>>>>>>>> unwind. On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still >>>>>>>> range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around >>>>>>>> and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they >>>>>> cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand >>>>>> out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week. >>>> I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too >>>> lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old
scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free >>>> shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement. Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels. >>>> At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Generally, hubs far outlast rims. Any reason you don't just
build new spokes and rims on your hubs? We do a steady
stream of those builds here.
I had originally planned on doing that because the hubs are still
good. I'd replaced the bearings in them twice and I did buy one new
wheel to use while I rebuilt them.
I discovered an issue about getting the tension checking device in
between the shorter spokes to check the underneath spokes and even
checking the top spokes around the bend seemed problematic.
I thought maybe to build the wheels without checking tension, but
unsure if it would work, I hesitated on destroying my old wheels and
started looking for all new stuff to experiment with.
When I couldn't even find hubs, I called the whole thing off and
bought another complete wheel.
If you build twenty inch wheels, I'm curious how you check tension.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Some yes, some no.
Sometimes you just need to guesstimate where a tool does not
fit.
https://softsolder.com/2018/08/03/park-spoke-tension-meter-vs-20-inch-wheel-spokes/
On 8/15/2026 2:50 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 13:33:37 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/15/2026 1:16 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 08:09:20 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org>
wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the >>>>>>>>>> sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as >>>>>>>>>> they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it >>>>>>>>>> just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was already >>>>>>>>>> pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension >>>>>>>>> while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much. >>>>>>>>>
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will >>>>>>>>> unwind.-a On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still >>>>>>>> range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around >>>>>>>> and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 >>>>>>>> and the
left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter
Conversion
Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's
going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they >>>>>> cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand >>>>>> out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I won't have a decent tire to put on it until sometime late next week. >>>> I'm going to want a fresh new tire for the shiny new wheel and I'm too >>>> lazy to take the mostly worn out tire and the cassette off the old
scruffed-up wheel to test the new wheel and then put the tire back on
the old wheel that will get hung up beside a pair of old scruffed-up
front 20 inch wheels for emergency use.
The Schwalbe web site is not working and the few places that had a
Schwalbe Green Marathon 40-559 wanted $25 to ship the $50 tire. I
finally found one last night at online Walmart of all places with free >>>> shipping.
I did bend the spokes around each other with my fingers and got a
little improvement.-a Now, according to Park Tools chart for steel
2.0MM spokes, the right side tensions are all between 120 kgf and 135
kgf and the left side has one at 70 kgf two at 86 kgf and the rest
right around 77 kgf.
I'll check it again after I ride.
FWIW, I never got around to building the two front 20" wheels because
I couldn't find any compatible hubs. I ended up buying two new wheels. >>>> At 82 years old, I suspect my wheel building days are over.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Generally, hubs far outlast rims. Any reason you don't just
build new spokes and rims on your hubs?-a We do a steady
stream of those builds here.
I had originally planned on doing that because the hubs are still
good. I'd replaced the bearings in them twice and I did buy one new
wheel to use while I rebuilt them.
I discovered an issue about getting the tension checking device in
between the shorter spokes to check the underneath spokes and even
checking the top spokes around the bend seemed problematic.
I thought maybe to build the wheels without checking tension, but
unsure if it would work, I hesitated on destroying my old wheels and
started looking for all new stuff to experiment with.
When I couldn't even find hubs, I called the whole thing off and
bought another complete wheel.
If you build twenty inch wheels, I'm curious how you check tension.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Some yes, some no.
Sometimes you just need to guesstimate where a tool does not fit.
https://softsolder.com/2018/08/03/park-spoke-tension-meter-vs-20-inch- wheel-spokes/
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more forcefully.
My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they were >>>>>> out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty darn >>>>>> good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind.-a On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress relief technique.
On 8/15/2026 8:09 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi
<am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi
<am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it
and the sprocket
tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as
long as they were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts
to get it just a
little better didn't get it any better and it was
already pretty darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off
the bike and
checked it and it was as good as when I built it,
maybe a little
better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good
spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even
tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster
job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while
riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that
much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads
form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion
which will
unwind.-a On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes
firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the
tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all
the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107
to 135 and the
left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension
Meter Conversion
Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter.
It's going to
have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other
where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the
truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress
relief technique.
I guess I have always done it wrong. I build a wheel then
start grabbing pairs of spokes and pulling on them like mad.
I thought that did the stress relief but I guess not. I like
to build wheels but it is far too cheap to just buy new
wheels and then check and touch them up.
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500,
AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more forcefully.
+1
I've always been very forceful with the stress relieving step.
My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
I miss Sheldon. He was one of a kind and I liked him hugely.
I'm havng trouble finding it now, but at one point I commented on
a cute .sig of his that riffed on The Farmer and the Cowman (from >Okalahoma!). He had included a verse on only one of the warring
factions (runners and cyclists as I recall), and I teased him he
was biased. He responded in his usual engaging fashion, saying if
I came up with the other verse he would use it. I did, and he did.
I believe he used it on rbt a time or two, wish I could find it.
On Sun, 16 Aug 2026 15:10:59 -0000 (UTC), Ted Heise <theise@panix.com>I read up on him and was doing bikes right about when he had died. The interesting thing to me was he was a non-believer. He was an atheist and
wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500,
AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more forcefully.
+1
I've always been very forceful with the stress relieving step.
My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
I miss Sheldon. He was one of a kind and I liked him hugely.
I'm havng trouble finding it now, but at one point I commented on
a cute .sig of his that riffed on The Farmer and the Cowman (from
Okalahoma!). He had included a verse on only one of the warring
factions (runners and cyclists as I recall), and I teased him he
was biased. He responded in his usual engaging fashion, saying if
I came up with the other verse he would use it. I did, and he did.
I believe he used it on rbt a time or two, wish I could find it.
Sheldon Brown was gone before I got involved enough in bikes to know
about him, but I think I would have liked him. He seemed like a guy
who enjoyed working on bicycles as much as, or perhaps more than
riding them. I can relate to that.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 8/15/2026 8:09 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/15/2026 5:30 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 19:16:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/14/2026 6:19 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2026 17:25:50 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 8/14/2026 5:05 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
OK, I finally folded up the truing stand and put it and the sprocket >>>>>>> tension device away. I couldn't leave them alone as long as they >>>>>>> were
out where I could see em. The last several attempts to get it just a >>>>>>> little better didn't get it any better and it was already pretty >>>>>>> darn
good.
I took the rear wheel I built several years ago off the bike and >>>>>>> checked it and it was as good as when I built it, maybe a little >>>>>>> better.
Can riding the bike even out the tensions?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
With a premium rim, as you have, reasonably good spokes and
nipples plus lubricated threads, you can get to even tension
while both round and in-plane within a half millimeter.
If you can settle for a larger variance, it's a faster job
For your own rear wheel (you don't look at it while riding)
with no rim brake, it probably doesn't matter all that much.
To your question, spokes do settle in as the heads form to
the hubshell under tension, nipples seat into the rim,
unlubricated nipples may leave a spoke in torsion which will
unwind.-a On light rims with high pressure tires, spoke
tension will measurably decrease just by airing the tire.
So, yes, a freshly built wheel has a dynamic set of spoke
tensions. That's why good wheelbuilders flex spokes firmly,
some even pressing the rim laterally (this was common
practice when I was young but few do that now) and then
repeat the tension and truing process so everything is
stable when the customer accepts the wheel.
I've got it almost perfectly true both ways, but the tensions still
range a bit. I've been grabbing a pair of spokes all the way around
and squeezing regularly. The right side ranges from 107 to 135 and the >>>>> left side is 70 to 96 according to Park Tools Tension Meter Conversion >>>>> Table. Right side 24-26, left side 20-23 on the meter. It's going to >>>>> have to be good enough.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
If that concerns you, either put some miles on it and check
later, or do that same spoke relief technique more
forcefully. My old friend Sheldon Brown used a lever.
Engineering principles and also practical application:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating
more explanation:
https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html
I never thought of bending the spokes around each other where they
cross. I'll give that a try.. I might have to drag the truing stand
out again...
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Or just put some miles on it. That's an effective stress relief
technique.
I guess I have always done it wrong. I build a wheel then start grabbing pairs of spokes and pulling on them like mad. I thought that did the
stress relief but I guess not.
I like to build wheels but it is far too
cheap to just buy new wheels and then check and touch them up.
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