I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
On Sun, 28 Jun 2026 13:44:43 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
Methinks #5 should written as M5 in metric parlance.
I've had the same problem over the years on various pieces of radio >equipment. If it can get it to fit, I use a mini-ratchet wrench and
Allen hex bit: ><https://www.google.com/search?num=10&udm=2&q=right%20angle%20allen%20mini%20ratchet>
If it doesn't fit, I braze a handle onto the Allen bit.
If desperate, I shorten the hex bit with a Dremel sanding disk.
Or, I make a one-way (ratchet) roller cam bearing and build my own
tool:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=one%20way%20ratchet%20mechanism>
If in a hurry, I shorten an Allen hex wrench, and braze a handle onto
it to form a "T". Ugly, but it works.
I just found these wrenches online: ><https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6103F-Ultra-Profile-Handle/dp/B0028DGIEY> ><https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=Anex%206103f>
(I've never seen or used such a wrench).
I like this style ratchet: ><https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Od8AAOSwMSNk-FyO/s-l500.jpg>
but it might be too thick for your application.
Good luck.
Also, congratulations on surviving your medical adventure.
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, you
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracket
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the
two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
Do you mean the calliper or the piston adjustment? I never had the BB7 but
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
a similar twin piston design, rather than the single piston with a fixed >piston of stuff like the BB5, but regardless pads should be removing the >split pin/or small bolt shouldnAt need to adjust the calliper, should be a >very easy pads out pads in sort of thing, wind the piston back or with >hydraulics push back into place new pads jobs done, so quick donAt even
need a cup of tea job!
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, youThat is definitely a design problem, IAd hope that newer models would not >require that, equally that your usage means get reasonably high mileage >between pad changes.
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracketSome of the multi tools particularly small ones have rather stubby Allen
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts
consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the
two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
keys which can be easier to get to some awkward spots.
Roger Merriman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 28 Jun 2026 21:45:39 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
Do you mean the calliper or the piston adjustment? I never had the BB7 but >> a similar twin piston design, rather than the single piston with a fixed
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
piston of stuff like the BB5, but regardless pads should be removing the
split pin/or small bolt shouldn-At need to adjust the calliper, should be a >> very easy pads out pads in sort of thing, wind the piston back or with
hydraulics push back into place new pads jobs done, so quick don-At even
need a cup of tea job!
Yes, theoretically, if the old pads were lined up, the new ones would
also be lined up....
The problem is that getting the pads in requires, for me anyway,
tipping the caliper out away from the mounting bracket. That requires loosening the adjustment bolts. The pads have to go in together with
the spring between them They push down and clamp onto a springy clip
at the bottom. There is no split pin or small bolt. Pushing them in
and keeping them together with the spring between them is ugly..
especially with my fat fingers.... now with added stiffness...
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, youThat is definitely a design problem, I-Ad hope that newer models would not >> require that, equally that your usage means get reasonably high mileage
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
between pad changes.
The calipers are designed for mounting on the right side. Mounting
them on the left side requires them to be upside down.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracketSome of the multi tools particularly small ones have rather stubby Allen
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts
consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the
two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
keys which can be easier to get to some awkward spots.
Roger Merriman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 28 Jun 2026 21:45:39 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
Do you mean the calliper or the piston adjustment? I never had the BB7 but >>> a similar twin piston design, rather than the single piston with a fixed >>> piston of stuff like the BB5, but regardless pads should be removing the >>> split pin/or small bolt shouldn?t need to adjust the calliper, should be a >>> very easy pads out pads in sort of thing, wind the piston back or with
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
hydraulics push back into place new pads jobs done, so quick don?t even
need a cup of tea job!
Yes, theoretically, if the old pads were lined up, the new ones would
also be lined up....
The problem is that getting the pads in requires, for me anyway,
tipping the caliper out away from the mounting bracket. That requires
loosening the adjustment bolts. The pads have to go in together with
the spring between them They push down and clamp onto a springy clip
at the bottom. There is no split pin or small bolt. Pushing them in
and keeping them together with the spring between them is ugly..
especially with my fat fingers.... now with added stiffness...
Had another look, and both the BB5/7 is a single piston with adjusters, and >no pin to keep the pads in, which all of the other brakes/callipers from >Shimano/TRP/Tekro and others have small bolt or pin to keep the pads in >place.
IAm guessing removing the wheels is even more of faff?
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, youThat is definitely a design problem, I?d hope that newer models would not >>> require that, equally that your usage means get reasonably high mileage
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
between pad changes.
The calipers are designed for mounting on the right side. Mounting
them on the left side requires them to be upside down.
Even so assuming you have space to get to the calliper which doesnAt >particularly sound like you do, should be pull old pads out push new ones
in, the being upside down shouldnAt make much difference, if you change
pads with the bike upside down this will be the case for the rear calliper >makes no difference, but itAs much easier access than the trike.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracketSome of the multi tools particularly small ones have rather stubby Allen >>> keys which can be easier to get to some awkward spots.
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts >>>> consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the >>>> two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
Roger Merriman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, you
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracket
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the
two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On Sun, 28 Jun 2026 13:44:43 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
Methinks #5 should written as M5 in metric parlance.
I've had the same problem over the years on various pieces of radio equipment. If it can get it to fit, I use a mini-ratchet wrench and
Allen hex bit: <https://www.google.com/search?num=10&udm=2&q=right%20angle%20allen%20mini%20ratchet>
If it doesn't fit, I braze a handle onto the Allen bit.
If desperate, I shorten the hex bit with a Dremel sanding disk.
Or, I make a one-way (ratchet) roller cam bearing and build my own
tool:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=one%20way%20ratchet%20mechanism>
If in a hurry, I shorten an Allen hex wrench, and braze a handle onto
it to form a "T". Ugly, but it works.
I just found these wrenches online: <https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6103F-Ultra-Profile-Handle/dp/B0028DGIEY> <https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=Anex%206103f>
(I've never seen or used such a wrench).
I like this style ratchet: <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Od8AAOSwMSNk-FyO/s-l500.jpg>
but it might be too thick for your application.
Good luck.
Also, congratulations on surviving your medical adventure.
On 6/28/2026 12:44 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
Yesterday, one of my Catrike maintenance tasks was checking the BB7
brake pads. I can remove and install the right side pads by loosening
the adjustment bolts without taking them all apart. They need to be
loosened anyway in order to realign the caliper to the disk after
putting the pads in. You loosen the adjustment bolts to align the
caliper with the disk, then tighten them to lock in the adjustment.
The left side caliper is mounted upside down, and as I've said, you
can't turn the Catrike upside down, so the only way to get to the
pads, is to remove the caliper.
You can remove it two ways, with bolts that hold the mounting bracket
to the steering arm or completely remove the adjustment bolts that
hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. The caliper adjustment bolts
consist of several small angled parts that must be put back together
in the correct order for it to work properly. Given the condition of
my arthritic fingers, I choose not to take that adjustment assembly
all apart, and instead use the bolts on the mounting bracket.
Unfortunately, on the left side, one of the bolts that holds the
caliper mounting bracket is blocked by the ball bolt that connects the
two steering arms. You can only get to it by removing the ball bolt,
because the standard short arm of an allen wrench is too long.
Removing the ball bolt risks upsetting the Catrike's allignment.
I've tried using a ball end allen wrench, but the angle is too
extreme. I always imagined trimming an allen wrench to make it fit,
but then, one day, I thought maybe others have had a similar problem
with too long allen wrenches and yes, I found "stubby" allen wrenches
that work perfectly. Makes the job quicker and easier. You''ll need
metric, #5
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Glad you found a workable solution.
We have a set of long arm allen wrenches which have been cut
and ground on the short side for exactly that sort of
problem. Take care to not heat the material on the
grindwheel when finishing the end.
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