Maria Sophia wrote:
Have you ever replaced a timing belt for a Lexus RX400H 2008?
How does this parts list look?
4PK880 external 4-rib engine-cooling-water-pump belt 90916-02570, not 6 rib (optional) Water pump belt tensioner 16620-0A010
(optional) water pump idler pulley 16603-0A010
Aisin TKT-033
WPT-802 5-bolt engine cooling-system water pump 16100-29085, not 6 bolt Engine cooling system Water Pump Gasket metal shimmed 16271-20020
Mitsubishi 13568-09080 (or T257) 13568-20020 timing belt for camshafts
Aisin BHT-004 Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-20030 (for timing belt)
Aisin BPT-802 Koyo/NSK 13505-20010/13505-20030 Tensioner Bearing
Koyo/NSK 13503-62030 (Aisin BPT-800) Idler Bearing
96761-24022 (x2) O-Rings for the coolant bypass pipes
Front bypass pipe o-ring 96761-24019
Rear bypass pipe o-ring 96761-35035
Aisin CGT-001 (90311-38034) two camshaft oil seals (1 per camshaft)
Aisin CGT-006 (90311-40022) front crankshaft oil seal
ACT-002 pink 50:50 P-OAT coolant 00272 SLLC2 (1-1/2 gallons overall)
Aisin THT-019 thermostat 90916-03107 & gasket 16325-62010,82C/180F
Any suggestions on special tools?
A Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller and seal driver perhaps
A chain wrench to remove camshaft sprockets to get to the seals
Maybe a Shley 60100A crankshaft pulley holder
Prolly a 22mm weighted impact socket for that 159ftlb crankshaft bolt
Any suggestions as to process?
MummyChunk wrote:
Maria Sophia wrote:
Have you ever replaced a timing belt for a Lexus RX400H 2008?
How does this parts list look?
4PK880 external 4-rib engine-cooling-water-pump belt 90916-02570, not 6 rib >> (optional) Water pump belt tensioner 16620-0A010
(optional) water pump idler pulley 16603-0A010
Aisin TKT-033
WPT-802 5-bolt engine cooling-system water pump 16100-29085, not 6 bolt
Engine cooling system Water Pump Gasket metal shimmed 16271-20020
Mitsubishi 13568-09080 (or T257) 13568-20020 timing belt for camshafts
Aisin BHT-004 Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-20030 (for timing belt)
Aisin BPT-802 Koyo/NSK 13505-20010/13505-20030 Tensioner Bearing
Koyo/NSK 13503-62030 (Aisin BPT-800) Idler Bearing
96761-24022 (x2) O-Rings for the coolant bypass pipes
Front bypass pipe o-ring 96761-24019
Rear bypass pipe o-ring 96761-35035
Aisin CGT-001 (90311-38034) two camshaft oil seals (1 per camshaft)
Aisin CGT-006 (90311-40022) front crankshaft oil seal
ACT-002 pink 50:50 P-OAT coolant 00272 SLLC2 (1-1/2 gallons overall)
Aisin THT-019 thermostat 90916-03107 & gasket 16325-62010,82C/180F
Any suggestions on special tools?
A Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller and seal driver perhaps
A chain wrench to remove camshaft sprockets to get to the seals
Maybe a Shley 60100A crankshaft pulley holder
Prolly a 22mm weighted impact socket for that 159ftlb crankshaft bolt
Any suggestions as to process?
I would slow down a little before ordering everything, because the parts list is mostly on the right track, but there are a couple places where it looks like you may be mixing RX400h-specific parts with other Toyota/Lexus 3MZ-FE parts.
The Aisin TKT-033 kit is probably the cleanest starting point. It is listed for the 2006-2008 RX400h, and the kit normally includes the timing belt, idler bearing, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, and water pump gasket. So if you buy the full TKT-033 kit, a lot of your individual parts list becomes duplicate: the belt, pump, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and pump gasket may already be in the box. I would verify the exact contents from the seller before buying the individual pieces separately. Here are two examples showing the kit listing: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AISTKT033 and https://www.finditparts.com/products/10705654/aisin-tkt-033
The 16100-29085 / 16100-29085 water pump number looks right for the RX400h, and Lexus parts listings show it fitting the 2006-2008 RX400h: https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__RX-400h/Engine-Water-Pump/63010091/1610029085.html
The 16271-20020 gasket is also the one I would expect to see with that style pump, but again, most good pump kits include it. I would not use a bunch of RTV on a coated metal gasket unless the pump instructions specifically call for it. Clean, flat surfaces matter more than sealant.
The line I would double-check hardest is the 4PK880 / 90916-02570 external water-pump belt and the external belt tensioner/idler. The RX400h is not laid out like a normal non-hybrid RX330/RX350 accessory drive. One RX400h timing belt procedure specifically notes that, because it is a hybrid, there is no auxiliary belt to remove before the crank pulley, and the Aisin TKT-033 kit lists the water pump drive type as timing belt. So I would not buy the external belt/tensioner/idler unless you physically see that setup on your car or a Lexus VIN parts lookup confirms it. Procedure reference: https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-belt-kit-installation-lexus-rx-400-h/
The bypass pipe O-rings are a good idea if you disturb those pipes. They are cheap, and old rubber does not always forgive being moved after 15+ years. Same with the thermostat while the coolant is out. I would do the thermostat and gasket unless they were recently done. For coolant, Toyota/Lexus pink SLLC 50/50 is the right general direction, but I would buy extra. The engine cooling loop and inverter cooling loop are separate, so do not mix the procedures or assume you bled both just because you filled one.
For seals, I would only do the cam seals if they are leaking or you are comfortable removing the cam sprockets properly. A dry factory cam seal is often better left alone than replaced badly. The crank seal is easier to justify while you are there. If you do the cam seals, I would not use a chain wrench on the cam sprockets. Use a proper cam pulley holding tool. Chain wrenches can chew up sprockets and make you regret trying to save time. A seal puller and seal driver are fine, but be very careful not to scratch the cam or crank sealing surfaces.
For special tools, yes, the Schley crank pulley holder or equivalent is worth having. A weighted 22mm impact socket is useful for removal, but I would still use a holding tool and torque wrench for final installation. Your 159 ft-lb crank bolt figure is in the right neighborhood; one RX400h procedure lists the crank pulley bolt at 220 Nm, which is about 162 ft-lb. Use the factory spec for your exact VIN/manual and do not just hammer it back on with an impact. The same procedure is here: https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-belt-kit-installation-lexus-rx-400-h/
I would also want a real torque wrench, a long breaker bar, a crank pulley puller if the pulley is stuck, a cam pulley holder if doing cam seals, a jack and wood block or engine support bar for the mount side, long extensions, a mirror/light, a spill-free funnel or vacuum fill setup, and a 1.5 mm pin/Allen key in case you need to reset or hold the hydraulic tensioner. The Toyota 3MZ-FE procedure says to compress the hydraulic tensioner slowly, pin it, install it evenly, and torque the tensioner bolts to 27 Nm / 20 ft-lb. Factory-style manual reference: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
Process-wise, I would treat this as a timing job first and a parts-swap job second. Disconnect the 12V battery and keep the car out of READY mode. Also remember this is a hybrid, so do not mess with orange high-voltage cables or connectors. Lexus hybrid safety guidance says not to touch orange high-voltage wiring/connectors during normal non-HV service, and high-voltage repairs require the proper service-plug procedure, PPE, and wait time: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10224143-9999.pdf
Start cold. Remove the battery/tray area, passenger wheel and splash shield, right-side mount/brackets, crank pulley, and timing covers. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC compression and verify the crank and cam timing marks before removing the belt. The Toyota 3MZ-FE procedure says to align the crank timing pulley mark with the oil pump body and verify both cam pulley marks line up with the rear cover marks: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
Once the belt is off, do not casually spin cams or crank independently. The Toyota procedure specifically has you move the crank about 60 degrees BTDC before turning the timing pulleys, to prevent piston/valve contact. That warning is enough reason to be careful, regardless of internet arguments about whether the engine is "interference" or not.
When installing the belt, use the factory marks, not only paint marks. Paint marks are helpful, but the factory timing marks are what matter. The listed belt path is crank pulley, water pump pulley, left-hand cam pulley, No. 2 idler, right-hand cam pulley, then No. 1 idler. After pulling the tensioner pin, rotate the engine clockwise two full revolutions by hand and recheck all timing marks. If the marks are off, remove the belt and redo it; do not convince yourself it is "close enough." Again, the reference procedure is here: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
The biggest mistakes on this job are buying duplicated or wrong hybrid parts, damaging cam/crank seals during replacement, letting the cams move with the crank in the wrong position, not torquing the crank bolt correctly, and not bleeding the coolant properly afterward. If you are careful, have the right holder tools, and verify the kit contents by VIN, your list is pretty solid. I would just skip the external belt/tensioner/idler until you confirm they actually apply to your RX400h.
Will-Dockery wrote:
MummyChunk wrote:
Maria Sophia wrote:
Have you ever replaced a timing belt for a Lexus RX400H 2008?
How does this parts list look?
4PK880 external 4-rib engine-cooling-water-pump belt 90916-02570, not 6 rib >>> (optional) Water pump belt tensioner 16620-0A010
(optional) water pump idler pulley 16603-0A010
Aisin TKT-033
WPT-802 5-bolt engine cooling-system water pump 16100-29085, not 6 bolt
Engine cooling system Water Pump Gasket metal shimmed 16271-20020
Mitsubishi 13568-09080 (or T257) 13568-20020 timing belt for camshafts
Aisin BHT-004 Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-20030 (for timing belt)
Aisin BPT-802 Koyo/NSK 13505-20010/13505-20030 Tensioner Bearing
Koyo/NSK 13503-62030 (Aisin BPT-800) Idler Bearing
96761-24022 (x2) O-Rings for the coolant bypass pipes
Front bypass pipe o-ring 96761-24019
Rear bypass pipe o-ring 96761-35035
Aisin CGT-001 (90311-38034) two camshaft oil seals (1 per camshaft)
Aisin CGT-006 (90311-40022) front crankshaft oil seal
ACT-002 pink 50:50 P-OAT coolant 00272 SLLC2 (1-1/2 gallons overall)
Aisin THT-019 thermostat 90916-03107 & gasket 16325-62010,82C/180F
Any suggestions on special tools?
A Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller and seal driver perhaps
A chain wrench to remove camshaft sprockets to get to the seals
Maybe a Shley 60100A crankshaft pulley holder
Prolly a 22mm weighted impact socket for that 159ftlb crankshaft bolt
Any suggestions as to process?
I would slow down a little before ordering everything, because the parts list is mostly on the right track, but there are a couple places where it looks like you may be mixing RX400h-specific parts with other Toyota/Lexus 3MZ-FE parts.
The Aisin TKT-033 kit is probably the cleanest starting point. It is listed for the 2006-2008 RX400h, and the kit normally includes the timing belt, idler bearing, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, and water pump gasket. So if you buy the full TKT-033 kit, a lot of your individual parts list becomes duplicate: the belt, pump, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and pump gasket may already be in the box. I would verify the exact contents from the seller before buying the individual pieces separately. Here are two examples showing the kit listing: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AISTKT033 and https://www.finditparts.com/products/10705654/aisin-tkt-033
The 16100-29085 / 16100-29085 water pump number looks right for the RX400h, and Lexus parts listings show it fitting the 2006-2008 RX400h: https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__RX-400h/Engine-Water-Pump/63010091/1610029085.html
The 16271-20020 gasket is also the one I would expect to see with that style pump, but again, most good pump kits include it. I would not use a bunch of RTV on a coated metal gasket unless the pump instructions specifically call for it. Clean, flat surfaces matter more than sealant.
The line I would double-check hardest is the 4PK880 / 90916-02570 external water-pump belt and the external belt tensioner/idler. The RX400h is not laid out like a normal non-hybrid RX330/RX350 accessory drive. One RX400h timing belt procedure specifically notes that, because it is a hybrid, there is no auxiliary belt to remove before the crank pulley, and the Aisin TKT-033 kit lists the water pump drive type as timing belt. So I would not buy the external belt/tensioner/idler unless you physically see that setup on your car or a Lexus VIN parts lookup confirms it. Procedure reference: https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-belt-kit-installation-lexus-rx-400-h/
The bypass pipe O-rings are a good idea if you disturb those pipes. They are cheap, and old rubber does not always forgive being moved after 15+ years. Same with the thermostat while the coolant is out. I would do the thermostat and gasket unless they were recently done. For coolant, Toyota/Lexus pink SLLC 50/50 is the right general direction, but I would buy extra. The engine cooling loop and inverter cooling loop are separate, so do not mix the procedures or assume you bled both just because you filled one.
For seals, I would only do the cam seals if they are leaking or you are comfortable removing the cam sprockets properly. A dry factory cam seal is often better left alone than replaced badly. The crank seal is easier to justify while you are there. If you do the cam seals, I would not use a chain wrench on the cam sprockets. Use a proper cam pulley holding tool. Chain wrenches can chew up sprockets and make you regret trying to save time. A seal puller and seal driver are fine, but be very careful not to scratch the cam or crank sealing surfaces.
For special tools, yes, the Schley crank pulley holder or equivalent is worth having. A weighted 22mm impact socket is useful for removal, but I would still use a holding tool and torque wrench for final installation. Your 159 ft-lb crank bolt figure is in the right neighborhood; one RX400h procedure lists the crank pulley bolt at 220 Nm, which is about 162 ft-lb. Use the factory spec for your exact VIN/manual and do not just hammer it back on with an impact. The same procedure is here: https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-belt-kit-installation-lexus-rx-400-h/
I would also want a real torque wrench, a long breaker bar, a crank pulley puller if the pulley is stuck, a cam pulley holder if doing cam seals, a jack and wood block or engine support bar for the mount side, long extensions, a mirror/light, a spill-free funnel or vacuum fill setup, and a 1.5 mm pin/Allen key in case you need to reset or hold the hydraulic tensioner. The Toyota 3MZ-FE procedure says to compress the hydraulic tensioner slowly, pin it, install it evenly, and torque the tensioner bolts to 27 Nm / 20 ft-lb. Factory-style manual reference: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
Process-wise, I would treat this as a timing job first and a parts-swap job second. Disconnect the 12V battery and keep the car out of READY mode. Also remember this is a hybrid, so do not mess with orange high-voltage cables or connectors. Lexus hybrid safety guidance says not to touch orange high-voltage wiring/connectors during normal non-HV service, and high-voltage repairs require the proper service-plug procedure, PPE, and wait time: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10224143-9999.pdf
Start cold. Remove the battery/tray area, passenger wheel and splash shield, right-side mount/brackets, crank pulley, and timing covers. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC compression and verify the crank and cam timing marks before removing the belt. The Toyota 3MZ-FE procedure says to align the crank timing pulley mark with the oil pump body and verify both cam pulley marks line up with the rear cover marks: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
Once the belt is off, do not casually spin cams or crank independently. The Toyota procedure specifically has you move the crank about 60 degrees BTDC before turning the timing pulleys, to prevent piston/valve contact. That warning is enough reason to be careful, regardless of internet arguments about whether the engine is "interference" or not.
When installing the belt, use the factory marks, not only paint marks. Paint marks are helpful, but the factory timing marks are what matter. The listed belt path is crank pulley, water pump pulley, left-hand cam pulley, No. 2 idler, right-hand cam pulley, then No. 1 idler. After pulling the tensioner pin, rotate the engine clockwise two full revolutions by hand and recheck all timing marks. If the marks are off, remove the belt and redo it; do not convince yourself it is "close enough." Again, the reference procedure is here: https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/Kluger200308/htmlweb/rm/rm1087e/m_14_0049.pdf
The biggest mistakes on this job are buying duplicated or wrong hybrid parts, damaging cam/crank seals during replacement, letting the cams move with the crank in the wrong position, not torquing the crank bolt correctly, and not bleeding the coolant properly afterward. If you are careful, have the right holder tools, and verify the kit contents by VIN, your list is pretty solid. I would just skip the external belt/tensioner/idler until you confirm they actually apply to your RX400h.
Thanks for the information, a friend of mine was having real difficulty with her timing chain recently.
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