• Basic front wheel alignment at home for free with the right tools

    From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sat May 31 21:20:02 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    What basic tools are needed to do a simple alignment check at home?

    I'm aware you can't easily do a comprehensive four-wheel alignment check at home (e.g., to check if a vehicle has been in an accident) but at home you generally are checking your own vehicles which you know the history of.

    All you really need to check, I think, is caster, camber & toe, right?
    And caster is a mathematical function of camber, right?

    So do I only need to accurately check camber and toe?

    If so, what tools do I need to check that at home, and what basic methods
    are needed? For example, on Amazon are these $50 toe alignment plates. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D

    But those toe alignment plates bolt to the axle? Really?
    Don't we want to perform toe measurements with the vehicle on the ground in
    the normal sprung geometry? On a turning plate perhaps?

    Since those toe alignment plates have a strap, can they be used with the
    wheel on (I realize the tire pushes the alignment plate out about an inch).

    For camber, this $100 camber angle gauge seems to be a magnetic mount. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PB7V3SU/

    Is that sufficient to measure camber & toe (caster can be calculated)?
    Or do I also need this wheel clamp contraption to get the camber right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07532CB8M/
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  • From Paul in Houston TX@Paul@Houston.Texas to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sat May 31 20:16:34 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    Ivano Rossi wrote:
    What basic tools are needed to do a simple alignment check at home?

    I do my own alignments at home.
    Front or back separately. Not all four at the same time.
    Toe: Board or pipe that will fit between the wheels. Measure distance
    from Front side of wheels and Rear side of wheels. Compare distances.
    Caster / camber: magnetic inclinometer. Check caster by sticking it on
    the struts. Check camber by sticking it on the wheels or hub. Some
    (most?) cars will not have adjustments for caster and possibly not
    camber. You may have to slot arms and towers with a grinding tool.
    If you can't find spots for the magnetic gauge then remove a front wheel
    and lower the rotor onto a wooden block so that the distance from hub to ground is exactly the same as with wheel on. It may not make for
    perfect measurements but will get your car in the allowable range.

    The tools that you mentioned are nice but expensive.
    A board with nails or clamps will work for toe.
    A simple mechanical incline gauge works for C/C.
    Johnson Level & Tool 700 Magnetic Angle Locator.


    I'm aware you can't easily do a comprehensive four-wheel alignment check at home (e.g., to check if a vehicle has been in an accident) but at home you generally are checking your own vehicles which you know the history of.

    All you really need to check, I think, is caster, camber & toe, right?
    And caster is a mathematical function of camber, right?

    So do I only need to accurately check camber and toe?

    If so, what tools do I need to check that at home, and what basic methods
    are needed? For example, on Amazon are these $50 toe alignment plates. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D

    But those toe alignment plates bolt to the axle? Really?
    Don't we want to perform toe measurements with the vehicle on the ground in the normal sprung geometry? On a turning plate perhaps?

    Since those toe alignment plates have a strap, can they be used with the wheel on (I realize the tire pushes the alignment plate out about an inch).

    For camber, this $100 camber angle gauge seems to be a magnetic mount. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PB7V3SU/

    Is that sufficient to measure camber & toe (caster can be calculated)?
    Or do I also need this wheel clamp contraption to get the camber right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07532CB8M/


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  • From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sun Jun 1 05:54:46 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On Sat, 31 May 2025 20:16:34 -0500, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

    A board with nails or clamps will work for toe.

    The problem is getting UNDER the engine so you need a "U" shape which I was able to fabricate with a board with two swinging arms and a nail in the
    tip. But the toe plates seem, to me, to be easier.

    But my main question was don't you measure toe with the vehicle weighted?
    The to plates I references seem to go on the calipers which is unsprung???

    A simple mechanical incline gauge works for C/C.
    Johnson Level & Tool 700 Magnetic Angle Locator.

    That looks neat, and it's inexpensive! https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807

    Do you place it against the hub with the vehicle on the ground weighted?
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  • From Paul in Houston TX@Paul@Houston.Texas to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sat May 31 23:07:59 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    Ivano Rossi wrote:
    On Sat, 31 May 2025 20:16:34 -0500, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

    A board with nails or clamps will work for toe.

    The problem is getting UNDER the engine so you need a "U" shape which I was able to fabricate with a board with two swinging arms and a nail in the
    tip. But the toe plates seem, to me, to be easier.

    But my main question was don't you measure toe with the vehicle weighted?
    The to plates I references seem to go on the calipers which is unsprung???

    A simple mechanical incline gauge works for C/C.
    Johnson Level & Tool 700 Magnetic Angle Locator.

    That looks neat, and it's inexpensive! https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807

    Do you place it against the hub with the vehicle on the ground weighted?
    Always on the ground or simulated ground level. Weighted would be
    ideal but getting someone to sit in the driver's seat while you work on
    the car may be difficult. Placing bags of sand in the driver's seat
    might work. Remember, there is a specified settings _range_. When I
    was working at the Ford and Chevy dealerships the alignment specialists
    would ask one of us to sit in the vehicle for a few min while he did the
    final check. He was fast.
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  • From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sun Jun 1 13:40:06 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On Sat, 31 May 2025 23:07:59 -0500, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

    Do you place it against the hub with the vehicle on the ground weighted?
    Always on the ground or simulated ground level. Weighted would be
    ideal but getting someone to sit in the driver's seat while you work on
    the car may be difficult. Placing bags of sand in the driver's seat
    might work. Remember, there is a specified settings _range_. When I
    was working at the Ford and Chevy dealerships the alignment specialists would ask one of us to sit in the vehicle for a few min while he did the final check. He was fast.

    Oh. My mistake. I understand you thought I meant weighted with a driver,
    and I'm aware some marquees (like bmw) will ask for a certain amount of
    weight in the trunk and back seats plus a driver side weight, but that's
    not what I meant.

    I need to look up the right term but "sprung" weight is what I meant.
    There is curb weight, which I'm calling laden, which is the vehicle w/o occupants in its normal situation where the suspension is compressed to its typical operating point.

    And then there's what happens when you remove the wheels, which is NOT
    that. I think it's called unsprung weight where the vehicle is lifted off
    the ground, and its suspension is fully extended and bearing no weight from
    the car's body. This is when the wheels are "up in the air.

    There's no way measurements are the same in those two situations, right?
    The entire suspension geometry changes between those two scenarios.
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  • From Randy Jones@randolphJones@randyjones.com to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Sun Jun 1 13:51:11 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On Sun, 01 Jun 2025 05:03:17 -0400, hubops@ccanoemail.com wrote:

    On my recent visit to the dealer for routine service, I happened to
    notice my car's details - year, model, plate, - on a large overhead
    display screen near the service mgr.'s desk with a green "OK" .. -
    upon asking about it I learned that - as I drove into the reception
    bay a laser sensor at the entrance door scanned my car
    and checked alignment < ! > He said the machine was dead accurate
    when compared with their alignment bay measurements.
    It would be nice if they would provide a printout of the scan
    results < I didn't ask > but I think they would lose alignment
    jobs if they did that.

    Any time anyone asks about alignment on this group someone tells them that
    they should use a 100K dollar Hunter machine, which is designed for getting every car completely aligned in the shortest amount of time possible.

    The same weirdness happens when they ask about mounting & balancing, simply because people think that a 100K dollar machine is the only way to do it.

    Comparing a 100K machine with $100 home tools is like comparing a fighter
    jet to a Cessna in terms of they're each designed for completely different things that have almost nothing except the obvious in common.

    Home alignment checks should take only basic measuring tools, whether
    that's string and a bubble level or a tape measure and turn plates,
    although the hardest part of the job is rolling the vehicle back & forth to settle the suspension after changes to the camber or toe.

    Therefore the most important tools are the turn plates, imho.
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  • From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech on Mon Jun 2 03:34:19 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On Sun, 01 Jun 2025 17:46:47 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

    On a properly desogned front suspension the toe should not change
    with suspension deflection, but camber for sure, and possibly caster,
    CAN change significantly - particularly on a strut suspension

    Oh. Is that why they sell on Amazon these $50 toe alignment plates. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D

    Are you saying the toe is the same whether or not the vehicle is sprung?
    When you adjust the toe, does that adjustment keep once you weight the car?
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  • From Xeno@xenolith@optusnet.com.au to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair on Mon Jun 2 07:26:13 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    Ivano Rossi <Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it> wrote:
    On Sun, 01 Jun 2025 17:46:47 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

    On a properly desogned front suspension the toe should not change
    with suspension deflection, but camber for sure, and possibly caster,
    CAN change significantly - particularly on a strut suspension

    Oh. Is that why they sell on Amazon these $50 toe alignment plates. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D

    Are you saying the toe is the same whether or not the vehicle is sprung?

    Depends on tie rod angle changes. Normal suspension travel should keep toe
    the same, but no guarantees, think bump steer. Hanging the suspension to
    full deflection is guaranteed to give you grief in toe adjustment.

    When you adjust the toe, does that adjustment keep once you weight the car?

    Likely not. Use the toe plates Luke!

    ____
    Xeno




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  • From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair on Mon Jun 2 16:13:03 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On 2 Jun 2025 07:26:13 GMT, Xeno wrote:

    When you adjust the toe, does that adjustment keep once you weight the car?

    Likely not. Use the toe plates Luke!

    Wait. That's a Yes and then a No, but maybe I misunderstood what you said.

    The toe "plate" can mean the static thing you bolt to the lugs (with the
    wheels removed and the vehicle on stands) or it could mean the rotating
    thing you roll the wheels on top of (with the suspension weighted
    normally).

    Which is the way to do a toe at home because even with the thing that sits
    on the ground that you put the vehicle on, you still need to measure the distance to the centerpoint under the vehicle.

    Can you clarify as I ordered these based on what the others already said. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D
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  • From Xeno@xenolith@optusnet.com.au to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair on Tue Jun 3 01:47:40 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    Ivano Rossi <Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it> wrote:
    On 2 Jun 2025 07:26:13 GMT, Xeno wrote:

    When you adjust the toe, does that adjustment keep once you weight the car? >>
    Likely not. Use the toe plates Luke!

    Wait. That's a Yes and then a No, but maybe I misunderstood what you said.

    The toe "plate" can mean the static thing you bolt to the lugs (with the wheels removed and the vehicle on stands) or it could mean the rotating
    thing you roll the wheels on top of (with the suspension weighted
    normally).

    The latter.

    Which is the way to do a toe at home because even with the thing that sits
    on the ground that you put the vehicle on, you still need to measure the distance to the centerpoint under the vehicle.

    Can you clarify as I ordered these based on what the others already said. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1XZ6H8D

    Never used such devices so cannot advise on their efficacy.
    --
    Xeno
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  • From Ivano Rossi@Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair on Tue Jun 3 07:57:36 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    On 3 Jun 2025 01:47:40 GMT, Xeno wrote:

    The toe "plate" can mean the static thing you bolt to the lugs (with the
    wheels removed and the vehicle on stands) or it could mean the rotating
    thing you roll the wheels on top of (with the suspension weighted
    normally).

    The latter.

    Thanks. Both are called toe plates by people so I was confused.

    Would you recommend any of these "turn plates" for a home alignment? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=turn+plate+alignment+tool

    I would want to do toe & then +/- 20 degree camber to calculate caster. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSFLDQRX/
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  • From Peter@confused@nospam.net to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair on Fri Jun 6 19:49:50 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.autos.tech

    Ivano Rossi <Ivano.Rossi@nospam.tin.it> wrote:

    The toe "plate" can mean the static thing you bolt to the lugs (with the >>> wheels removed and the vehicle on stands) or it could mean the rotating
    thing you roll the wheels on top of (with the suspension weighted
    normally).

    The latter.

    Thanks. Both are called toe plates by people so I was confused.

    Would you recommend any of these "turn plates" for a home alignment? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=turn+plate+alignment+tool

    I would want to do toe & then +/- 20 degree camber to calculate caster. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSFLDQRX/

    I don't think you can measure with laser like accuracy at home.
    So what good would an alignment check do you if it's inaccurate?
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