I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
On 14/08/2026 12:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
On 14/08/2026 3:53 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 14/08/2026 12:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Keithr0 wrote
Clocky wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if >>>> needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is >>>> needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
That's crazy expensive,
$140 more than a Michelin Primacy 5 in the same size.--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
We just replaced the Bridgestones on the Golf with Michelin Primacy 5's with a very noticeable improvement in the ride and noise levels, to
their credit the Bridgestones lasted 97k km and were still roadworthy
but they were always noisy and gave a poor ride.
Keithr0 wrote:
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
they can be had cheaper than that
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Keithr0 wrote
Clocky wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's >>>>> side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had >>>>> gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of >>>>> the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
That's crazy expensive,
Yep, its always been a fuckwit pom
$140 more than a Michelin Primacy 5 in the same-a-a size.
We just replaced the Bridgestones on the Golf with Michelin Primacy
5's with a very noticeable improvement in the ride and noise levels,
to their credit the Bridgestones lasted 97k km and were still
roadworthy but they were always noisy and gave a poor ride.
On 14/08/2026 6:23 pm, Axel wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:Not those tyres (around here at least), there are cheaper options, but I didn't want one different tyre on the car.
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
they can be had cheaper than that
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
On 14/08/2026 3:53 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 14/08/2026 12:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
On 14/8/2026 4:12 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 14/08/2026 3:53 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 14/08/2026 12:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
From the Bridgestone website;
Alenza H/L33
The Alenza H/L33 is a premium highway tyre fitted as original equipment
only on selected SUVs including Toyota RAV4. For highway and city
driving, it offers a quiet and comfortable ride without compromising on handling performance.
If you want a *cheaper* tyre, be prepared to compromise on one or more
of the above. Note, it is considered a *premium* highway tyre and that
would explain the price tag. What's more, tyres fitted to BEVs and
Hybrids tend to have reduced rolling resistance and that *feature* is
likely also embedded in the price tag. Tyres, in and of themselves, are
a compromise, typically a battle between longevity, handling and
braking. Bit like the old adage in a mechanic's workshop, you can have a good, cheap or quick job, pick any two.
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:You really haven't a clue about tyres!
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Keithr0 wrote
Clocky wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's >>>>>> side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone >>>>>> through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it >>>>>> if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had >>>>>> gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of >>>>>> the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 >>>>>> is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
That's crazy expensive,
Yep, its always been a fuckwit pom
You're still the same miserable old fuckwit then roddles.
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2$140 more than a Michelin Primacy 5 in the same size.
We just replaced the Bridgestones on the Golf with Michelin Primacy
5's with a very noticeable improvement in the ride and noise levels,
to their credit the Bridgestones lasted 97k km and were still
roadworthy but they were always noisy and gave a poor ride.
Keithr0 wrote
Axel wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if >>>> needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is >>>> needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
they can be had cheaper than that
Not those tyres (around here at least), there are cheaper options, but
I didn't want one different tyre on the car.
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
Xeno wrote
Keithr0 wrote
Clocky wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's >>>>> side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it >>>>> if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had >>>>> gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of >>>>> the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 >>>>> is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
Yeah not cheap. What size are they?
225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
From the Bridgestone website;
Alenza H/L33
The Alenza H/L33 is a premium highway tyre fitted as original equipment
only on selected SUVs including Toyota RAV4. For highway and city
driving, it offers a quiet and comfortable ride without compromising on
handling performance.
If you want a *cheaper* tyre, be prepared to compromise on one or more
of the above. Note, it is considered a *premium* highway tyre and that
would explain the price tag. What's more, tyres fitted to BEVs and
Hybrids tend to have reduced rolling resistance and that *feature* is
likely also embedded in the price tag. Tyres, in and of themselves, are
a compromise, typically a battle between longevity, handling and
braking. Bit like the old adage in a mechanic's workshop, you can have
a good, cheap or quick job, pick any two.
Just as I thought.
AI Overview
The Bridgestone Alenza H/L33 is designed with advanced
technology for reduced rolling resistance to help
improve fuel efficiency.
Key Details
Fuel Efficiency: Built to lower fuel consumption and increase
vehicle efficiency.
Vehicle Fitment: Used as original equipment on select SUVs
like the Toyota RAV4.
Ride Quality: Offers low road noise and sedan-like comfort on
highways.
Performance: Provides reliable wet and dry road traction
----------------------------
A bit more diving down the rabbit hole comes up with ENLITEN technology.
AI Overview
Bridgestone ENLITEN Technology is an innovative tire
development platform designed to reduce weight, lower
rolling resistance, and minimize environmental impact.
It achieves up to a 20% reduction in tire weight and
decreases rolling resistance, improving fuel efficiency
in combustion vehicles and extending range for electric
vehicles (EVs) without compromising safety or grip.
Key Performance Benefits
Lower Rolling Resistance: Cuts rolling resistance significantly
compared to standard equivalent tires, maximizing energy
efficiency and battery range for EVs.
Lightweight Design: Uses fewer raw materials and less overall
mass, reducing the carbon footprint during manufacturing and
disposal.
Increased Longevity: Enhances wear life and mileage capabilities
compared to predecessor models.
Maintained Safety: Preserves high-level wet and dry braking
performance, handling stability, and wet grip metrics.
---------------------------
The lower rolling resistance translates to reduced fuel consumption, something that is vital in BEVs and a feature of Hybrids. Change to a cheaper tyre that doesn't have the feature and you may find that the
money you save on the purchase price of the alternate tyre ends up
costing you as much at the fuel pump, especially with the way petrol
prices are headed.
The other feature of note is the 20% reduction in weight of the tyres.
It may not seem like much but that translates to a fuels saving during acceleration. But where it really benefits is in the vehicle handling department. Tyre mass is *unsprung mass* and said mass has to follow the contours of the road, unlike the *sprung mass* which does not. That directly translates to better handling since the lighter wheel
assemblies are better able to maintain tyre contact with the road along with providing a more comfortable ride.
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wroteEven for roddles, that is a stupid comment, nothing to do with
-a-a-a Increased Longevity: Enhances wear life and mileage capabilities
-a-a-a compared to predecessor models.
Clearly keefy didn't get that
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Try finding a pair of tyres in that size from a decent manufacturer that
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
On 14/08/2026 6:23 pm, Axel wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:Not those tyres
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
they can be had cheaper than that
(around here at least),
there are cheaper options, but I didn't want one different tyre on the
car.
Rod Speed wrote
Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote
Increased Longevity: Enhances wear life and mileage capabilities
compared to predecessor models.
Clearly keefy didn't get that
Even for roddles, that is a stupid comment,
nothing to do with longevity,
it got a screw stuck in it
probably from one of the many road works around here.
The same could have happened to anytyre cheap or expensive, old or new.
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new RAV4,
these are the tyres that come with it.
Noddy wrote
Keithr0 wrote
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
Try finding a pair of tyres in that size from a decent manufacturer that will cost less than one of these.
Keithr0 wrote:
On 14/08/2026 6:23 pm, Axel wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:Not those tyres
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
they can be had cheaper than that
$310. I just googled 225/60 R18 Bridgestone Alenza H/L33
(around here at least),
that's one disadvantage of living in the middle of nowhere I guess
there are cheaper options, but I didn't want one different tyre on the
car.
same for me when I blew one on the Lancer. I paid $185 for the original YOKOHAMA ADVAN A460 205/60R16 92H rather than have mismatched tyres
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new RAV4,
these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was $140
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle so
we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle
and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new RAV4,
these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wroteDemented roddles king of the snip
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new
RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
-aRead this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
On 14/08/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Try finding a pair of tyres in that size from a decent manufacturer that will cost less than one of these.
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new
RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new
RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pairAgree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was $140
and put them on one axle :)
per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle so
we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle
and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
On 14/08/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
Try finding a pair of tyres in that size from a decent manufacturer that will cost less than one of these.
https://tinyurl.com/6smm5h69
https://www.tyroola.com.au/?srsltid=AfmBOorLNZb3qwV7ASk0umxyAkv-QCGJKyP7YaVuegmafEgkY1udcDc6
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was $140
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it if
needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463 is
needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a pair
and put them on one axle :)
per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle so
we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle
and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
Keithr0 wrote:
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
On 15/08/2026 8:07 am, Daryl wrote:
Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they
do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle
so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
That's a very bad idea on a WRX for reasons I thought you might have understood but clearly don't.
On 15/08/2026 10:24 am, Keithr0 wrote:
On 14/08/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a
pair and put them on one axle :)
Try finding a pair of tyres in that size from a decent manufacturer
that will cost less than one of these.
Define a "decent manufacturer"?
If you're going to limit yourself to expensive brands then you won't
have too many options. But if you're not fussy about brands then the
world is your oyster:
https://tinyurl.com/6smm5h69
Also, if you don't mind doing a bit of leg work, you can try here:
https://www.tyroola.com.au/?srsltid=AfmBOorLNZb3qwV7ASk0umxyAkv-
QCGJKyP7YaVuegmafEgkY1udcDc6
I've bought maybe 15-20 tyres through these guys and they're excellent.
On 15/08/2026 6:41 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 8:07 am, Daryl wrote:
Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they
do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle
so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
That's a very bad idea on a WRX for reasons I thought you might have
understood but clearly don't.
ROTFL :)
Take a moment to amuse us all by sharing exactly what that is, Mr Windscreen...
On 15/08/2026 10:07 am, Daryl wrote:
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy aAgree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
pair and put them on one axle :)
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they
do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD it would make absolutely zero difference :)
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle
so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
Yep.
On 15/08/2026 8:07 am, Daryl wrote:Casts doubt on whether he ever actually qualified as a mechanic - this
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 14/08/2026 2:14 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
I noticed this morning that there was a screw stuck in the driver's
side rear tyre. I didn't want to pull it out in case it had gone
through so I went to the local tyre place where they could plug it
if needed.
The guy looked at it and said that the bad news was that, if it had
gone through, it couldn't be plugged as it was right on the edge of
the side wall. Of course it had gone through so a new tyre at $463
is needed. The bloody tyre has only done 12K, just what I needed.
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a
pair and put them on one axle :)
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they
do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same axle
so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
That's a very bad idea on a WRX for reasons I thought you might have understood but clearly don't.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
On 15/08/2026 6:38 pm, Axel wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
And *you* are the useless cunt who brings the fucktard into this group
with your relentless cross posting.
Maybe one day you grow a brain cell and wake up to yourself, but I'm not confident....
On 15/8/2026 7:09 pm, Noddy wrote:Any significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
On 15/08/2026 6:41 pm, Clocky wrote:When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before anyone called
On 15/08/2026 8:07 am, Daryl wrote:
Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's
they do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the
other axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
That's a very bad idea on a WRX for reasons I thought you might have
understood but clearly don't.
ROTFL :)
Take a moment to amuse us all by sharing exactly what that is, Mr
Windscreen...
them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling radius
for a given size but thread depth only made a small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
On 15/8/2026 6:58 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles,
just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You've been proven wrong often Rod!
On 15/08/2026 6:38 pm, Axel wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
And *you* are the useless cunt who brings the fucktard into this group
with your relentless cross posting.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles,
just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
Rod Speed wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles,
just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You said Keith was stupid to have those tyres, but they came with car.
You said longevity was an issue, but it was a puncture. You were wrong
on both counts, as anyone can see.
Rod Speed wrote
Axel <none@not.here> wrote
Keithr0 wroteNo one has ever proved that I am wrong,
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but >>>> they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just >>>> go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You've been proven wrong often Rod!
On 15/8/2026 10:34 pm, Axel wrote:
Rod Speed wrote:Yup, 2 counts here, so many counts everywhere else. Rod is certainly unique!
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:You said Keith was stupid to have those tyres, but they came with car.
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, >>>>> just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You said longevity was an issue, but it was a puncture. You were wrong
on both counts, as anyone can see.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a new >>>>>>>>> RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, but
they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, just
go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
On 15/8/2026 7:30 pm, Daryl wrote:
On 15/8/2026 7:09 pm, Noddy wrote:Any significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
On 15/08/2026 6:41 pm, Clocky wrote:When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting our
On 15/08/2026 8:07 am, Daryl wrote:
Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's
they do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the >>>>> other axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
That's a very bad idea on a WRX for reasons I thought you might have
understood but clearly don't.
ROTFL :)
Take a moment to amuse us all by sharing exactly what that is, Mr
Windscreen...
engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted to the
various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before anyone
called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small difference
so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced 2 tyres on the
WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair of
*half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting ourAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted to the
various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before anyone
called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small difference
so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced 2 tyres on
the WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair of
*half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever admit it.
On 15/8/2026 5:53 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 15/08/2026 10:07 am, Daryl wrote:
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy aAgree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
pair and put them on one axle :)
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they
do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD
it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only drives
the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS* are driven
by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO MECHANICAL
CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The system is *REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels.>
axle >>> so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on theOn the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is *electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials paired
with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a planetary gear system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to provide the lockup.>
Yep.
And your agreement means you too haven't a clue how Subaru systems AND Toyota hybrid systems operate either.-a operate either. That, I might
add, does not surprise me in the slightest. You are too stupid to
realise you're stupid.
On 15/8/2026 5:58 pm, Noddy wrote:
I've looked at Tyroola and when I add up the total cost includinghttps://www.tyroola.com.au/?srsltid=AfmBOorLNZb3qwV7ASk0umxyAkv-
QCGJKyP7YaVuegmafEgkY1udcDc6
I've bought maybe 15-20 tyres through these guys and they're excellent.
fitting etc they aren't much if any cheaper than anyone else although it always pays to do some research to find the best price.
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting ourAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted to
the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before anyone
called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced 2
tyres on the WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair
of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in the
Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and viscous
coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as usual.
The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow for
different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and fitting tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a differential issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
On 15/08/2026 7:25 pm, Daryl wrote:
On 15/8/2026 5:58 pm, Noddy wrote:
I've looked at Tyroola and when I add up the total cost includinghttps://www.tyroola.com.au/?srsltid=AfmBOorLNZb3qwV7ASk0umxyAkv-
QCGJKyP7YaVuegmafEgkY1udcDc6
I've bought maybe 15-20 tyres through these guys and they're excellent.
fitting etc they aren't much if any cheaper than anyone else although
it always pays to do some research to find the best price.
They can be, but it depends on what you're buying. An added bonus for me
is that in having a tyre machine & electronic balancer I can just get
them trucked to my door and save a fair bit of dosh.
On 15/08/2026 4:58 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles,
just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
That's a blatant lie lol
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD
it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only drives
the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS* are
driven by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO MECHANICAL
CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The system is
*REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as merging
onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials paired
with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a planetary gear
system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work either.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels (acceleration)
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you obviously have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in action.
On 16/08/2026 9:54 am, Keithr0 wrote:
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time
AWD it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only
drives the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS*
are driven by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO
MECHANICAL CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The
system is *REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY*
when there is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as
merging onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
ROTFL :)
The mental munt has been posting here for years under God only knows how many nyms, and in all that time he *still* hasn't learned to just shut
up and accept the fact that there are things in this world that he knows nothing about.
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials
paired with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a
planetary gear system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to
provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
And, as usual, it's a load of irrelevant waffle. Hate to break it to
him, but a Viscous LSD is actually a mechanical device. If he's ever had
one apart on a bench he would be well aware of that, but then he left
the trade when side valve engines were still common :)
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
In tyres of the same size you'll always find rolling diameter
differences between them even in the same make and model tyre. That's precisely why differentials exist.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work
either.
He's remarkably clueless about most things, despite all the noise he
likes to make.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels
(acceleration)
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you
obviously have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in
action.
He bought a Yaris? :)
For fuck's sake :)
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
On 16/08/2026 9:18 am, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 4:58 pm, Rod Speed wrote:What he meant to say was that he has never admitted to being wrong.
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:That's a blatant lie lol
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell roddles, >>>>> just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
On 15/08/2026 7:38 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 15/8/2026 5:53 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 15/08/2026 10:07 am, Daryl wrote:
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy aAgree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
pair and put them on one axle :)
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they >>>> do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD
it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only drives
the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS* are driven
by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO MECHANICAL
CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The system is
*REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as merging
onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
axle >>> so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on the otherOn the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials paired
with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a planetary gear
system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
And your agreement means you too haven't a clue how Subaru systems AND
Toyota hybrid systems operate either.-a operate either. That, I might
add, does not surprise me in the slightest. You are too stupid to
realise you're stupid.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work either.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels (acceleration)
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you obviously have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in action.
Axel <none@not.here> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Axel <none@not.here> wrote
Keithr0 wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell
roddles, just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You said Keith was stupid to have those tyres, but they came with car.
I said that he was too stupid to work out what those stupidly
expensive tyres would do to the cost of running that car
You said longevity was an issue, but it was a puncture.
And it clearly is given that the puncture meant that it
had to be replaced after a very short time which meant
fuck all longevity
You were wrong on both counts,
Nope, you are on both counts
as anyone can see.
Anyone can see that you can't even manage
to work out what longevity actually means
On 15/08/2026 4:58 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell
roddles, just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
That's a blatant lie lol
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote:
On 15/08/2026 7:38 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 15/8/2026 5:53 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 15/08/2026 10:07 am, Daryl wrote:
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy aAgree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was
pair and put them on one axle :)
$140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for
even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they >>>>> do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD
it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only drives
the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS* are driven >>> by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO MECHANICAL
CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The system is
*REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as merging
onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
axle >>> so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on theOn the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials paired
with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a planetary gear
system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to provide the lockup.> >>>> Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
Well it would seen not!
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
The issue of concern was a pair of half worn tyres matched with a pair of
new tyres. That is a no no in SubarurCOs book for the reasons I described. See the Subaru spec if you want confirmation. And you are doing damage from the get go if you ignore said specs.
And your agreement means you too haven't a clue how Subaru systems AND
Toyota hybrid systems operate either.-a operate either. That, I might
add, does not surprise me in the slightest. You are too stupid to
realise you're stupid.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work
either.
I dare say I know more than you.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels
(acceleration)
Since the topic was about torque vectoring in the Subaru viscous coupling, that was my point with the hybrid AWD system in Toyotas. Since the front
and rear drives are mechanically separate, all torque vectoring to the rear wheels has to be done electrically by energising the rear motor to balance its torque output with that applied to the front wheels by the ICE and electric motor. That occurs under acceleration.
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)You would be wrong. I road tested heaps at every dealer along the coast
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you obviously
have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in action.
here but all they had for sale then and there were AWDs. I rented an AWD hybrid for a time and worked out then that I didnrCOt want to sacrifice the spare wheel for AWD. I meant to have one in Tassie when there but all they had left on my late arrival was a damn Nissan qasqai. So I do have
experience with them
and settled for the Corolla from
Port Macquarie since it was on the floor, had a spare, had a decent boot
and was FWD, not AWD.
Rod Speed wrote
Axel <none@not.here> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Axel <none@not.here> wrote
Keithr0 wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
And stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting, >>>>>> but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell
roddles, just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
let alone that fuckwit pom in this thread
You said Keith was stupid to have those tyres, but they came with car.
I said that he was too stupid to work out what those stupidly
expensive tyres would do to the cost of running that car
the cost of tyre replacement is not normally a major consideration when purchasing a car.
and tyres can be replaced with any kind,it's not necessary to use the same ones.
You said longevity was an issue, but it was a puncture.
And it clearly is given that the puncture meant that it
had to be replaced after a very short time which meant
fuck all longevity
see below
You were wrong on both counts,
Nope, you are on both counts
as anyone can see.
Anyone can see that you can't even manage
to work out what longevity actually means
longevity re car tyres is the amount of mileage they're good for before needing replacement.
you are misusing the term
On 16/08/2026 9:54 am, Keithr0 wrote:
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time
AWD it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only
drives the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS*
are driven by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO
MECHANICAL CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The
system is *REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY*
when there is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as
merging onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
ROTFL :)
The mental munt has been posting here for years under God only knows how many nyms, and in all that time he *still* hasn't learned to just shut
up and accept the fact that there are things in this world that he knows nothing about.
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials
paired with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a
planetary gear system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to
provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
And, as usual, it's a load of irrelevant waffle. Hate to break it to
him, but a Viscous LSD is actually a mechanical device.
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting ourAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted to
the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before anyone
called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced 2
tyres on the WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair
of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in the
Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and viscous
coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as usual.
The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow for
different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a differential
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless "experts"You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to hold
"licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system :)
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assistingAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted
to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before
anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced
2 tyres on the WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair
of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in
the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and
viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever
admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow
for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and
fitting tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a
differential issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the
things would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
Yep, they are clueless, a couple of mm difference in tread depth on
otherwise identical tyres makes bugger all difference to the rolling
radius, the difference isn't significant enough to affect the viscous coupling.
The car even went to a Subaru dealer for a service with those tyres
fitted and no comments were made by the dealer about the tyres, it also
survived for a couple of years like that without any failures, if it was
as bad as they make out it would have failed within a few weeks but it didn't.
On 16/08/2026 9:54 am, Keithr0 wrote:
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time
AWD it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only
drives the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS*
are driven by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO
MECHANICAL CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The
system is *REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY*
when there is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as
merging onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
ROTFL :)
The mental munt has been posting here for years under God only knows how many nyms, and in all that time he *still* hasn't learned to just shut
up and accept the fact that there are things in this world that he knows nothing about.
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials
paired with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a
planetary gear system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to
provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
And, as usual, it's a load of irrelevant waffle. Hate to break it to
him, but a Viscous LSD is actually a mechanical device. If he's ever had
one apart on a bench he would be well aware of that, but then he left
the trade when side valve engines were still common :)
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
In tyres of the same size you'll always find rolling diameter
differences between them even in the same make and model tyre. That's precisely why differentials exist.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work
either.
He's remarkably clueless about most things, despite all the noise he
likes to make.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels
(acceleration)
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you
obviously have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in
action.
He bought a Yaris? :)
For fuck's sake :)
On 16/08/2026 10:47 am, Noddy wrote:
He bought a Yaris? :)That's only a guess, but he has traded his Corolla for an SUV of some
For fuck's sake :)
sort. Compared to what a Yaris used to be, it's a bloody big car, I had
one parked next to the RAV the other day and it wasn't that much smaller.
On 16/08/2026 8:47 am, Noddy wrote:
And, as usual, it's a load of irrelevant waffle. Hate to break it to
him, but a Viscous LSD is actually a mechanical device.
No shit. Pity you had no idea yesterday but hey, you Googled and learned something today!
On 16/08/2026 1:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
Since the topic was about torque vectoring in the Subaru viscous
coupling, that was my point with the hybrid AWD system in Toyotas. Since the front
and rear drives are mechanically separate, all torque vectoring to the
rear wheels has to be done electrically by energising the rear motor to
balance its torque output with that applied to the front wheels by the ICE and
electric motor. That occurs under acceleration.
Your point that the rear motor was only used when the front wheels loose traction, was completely wrong, not to mention that the rear motor is
also used to charge the battery.
On 16/08/2026 10:47 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:54 am, Keithr0 wrote:That's only a guess, but he has traded his Corolla for an SUV of some
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time
AWD it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only
drives the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS*
are driven by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO
MECHANICAL CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The
system is *REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered
*ONLY* when there is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as
merging onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
ROTFL :)
The mental munt has been posting here for years under God only knows
how many nyms, and in all that time he *still* hasn't learned to just
shut up and accept the fact that there are things in this world that
he knows nothing about.
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system
is *electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with
the exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling
limited-slip center differential. Recent models have have open
differentials paired with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD
setup had a planetary gear system with an electromagnetic/mechanical
clutch to provide the lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
And, as usual, it's a load of irrelevant waffle. Hate to break it to
him, but a Viscous LSD is actually a mechanical device. If he's ever
had one apart on a bench he would be well aware of that, but then he
left the trade when side valve engines were still common :)
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
In tyres of the same size you'll always find rolling diameter
differences between them even in the same make and model tyre. That's
precisely why differentials exist.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems
work either.
He's remarkably clueless about most things, despite all the noise he
likes to make.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that
shows what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle) >>> ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels
(acceleration)
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you
obviously have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in
action.
He bought a Yaris? :)
For fuck's sake :)
sort. Compared to what a Yaris used to be, it's a bloody big car, I had
one parked next to the RAV the other day and it wasn't that much smaller.
Noddy wrote:
He's also completely failed to comprehend that Google is no substitute
for real world experience :)
That'd be something of which there is zero evidence of you having any Fraudster. Otoh, there is irrefutable proof that you are a serial liar
and hypocrite.
alvey
Keeping if real since years ago.
Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 4:58 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2026 18:38:14 +1000, Axel <none@not.here> wrote:
Keithr0 wrote:
On 15/08/2026 3:59 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote
Might be cheaper to replace 2 with a different brand.
-aAnd stupid to have those in the first place
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - if you buy a >>>>>>>>>>> new RAV4, these are the tyres that come with it.
Read this slowly, move your lips if it helps - even
a fuckwit pom should be able to work out what
the car they are considering comes with tyre
wise and what that will cost them if it needs
to be replaced when something like a pot hole
or screw takes it out very early.
Obviously you are too stupid to do that
<reams of fuckwit pomshit flushed where it belongs>
<yawn> These arguments with you may start off mildly interesting,
but they get mind numbingly boring pretty soon, so farewell
roddles, just go away and play with or by yourself.
he has to win even when he's wrong
No one has ever proved that I am wrong,
That's a blatant lie lol
if he's never been wrong, he must be a perfect man. better nail him to a cross. :)
On 16/08/2026 1:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote:
On 15/08/2026 7:38 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 15/8/2026 5:53 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 15/08/2026 10:07 am, Daryl wrote:
On 14/8/2026 9:35 pm, Noddy wrote:
463 bucks for a tyre is bullshit. For that kind of dosh I'd buy a >>>>>>> pair and put them on one axle :)Agree, its not as if its a Lamborghini super car, the Michelin was >>>>>> $140 per tyre less and there were many other good known brands for >>>>>> even less again.
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like Subaru's they >>>>>> do recommend having the same tyres on each corner.
I think the RAV4 is an on demand AWD, in which case it would make
absolutely zero difference. Then again, even if it were full time AWD >>>>> it would make absolutely zero difference :)
You two haven't a clue. The RAV4 is a HYBRID. The *ENGINE* only drives >>>> the *FRONT WHEELS* in conjunction with MG1. The *REAR WHEELS* are
driven
by a separate electric motor *MG3/MGR*. There is *NO MECHANICAL
CONNECTION* between the front and rear drive systems. The system is
*REACTIVE AWD* which means the rear motor is powered *ONLY* when there >>>> is slippage at the front wheels.>
*WRONG* The rear motor cuts in under hard acceleration, such as merging
onto a freeway in a 110Km/hr zone
Oops, you seem to have missed this.
means the rear motor is torque vectored *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels or hard acceleration.
axle >>> so we had 2 new tyres on one axle and 2 half worn tyres on theOn the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and size) on the same
other
axle and it didn't cause any noticeable issues.
It did but Daryl was too stupid to realise it. The RAV4 AWD system is
*electrical* whilst the WRX system is entirely mechanical with the
exception of the centre diff which is a viscous-coupling limited-slip
center differential. Recent models have have open differentials paired >>>> with active brake vectoring. The STI's DCCD setup had a planetary gear >>>> system with an electromagnetic/mechanical clutch to provide the
lockup.>
Yep.
Ah the usual denigrating tone and a full explanation of stuff that
virtually everybody here knows anyway.
Well it would seen not!
There would only be a problem if the front and rear tyres have a
different rolling diameter (unlikely if they have the same parameters
and are from good manufacturers)
The issue of concern was a pair of half worn tyres matched with a pair of
new tyres. That is a no no in SubarurCOs book for the reasons I described. >> See the Subaru spec if you want confirmation. And you are doing damage
from
the get go if you ignore said specs.
And your agreement means you too haven't a clue how Subaru systems AND >>>> Toyota hybrid systems operate either.-a operate either. That, I might
add, does not surprise me in the slightest. You are too stupid to
realise you're stupid.
You don't seem to have much of a handle on how Toyota AWD systems work
either.
I dare say I know more than you.
I think not, I actually drive one every day - that is called practical experience. I know the theory of how it works just as well as you claim
to know.
There are a number of modes, there is a display on the dash that shows
what is going on (the modes can change several times a minute).
ICE drives the front wheels only (rare)
ICE charges the battery only (sometimes on startup)
ICE drives the front wheels and charges the battery (most common)
ICE and battery drive the front wheels (common)
Battery drives the front wheels alone (usually low speed light throttle) >>> ICE and battery drive the front wheels, battery drives rear wheels
(acceleration)
Since the topic was about torque vectoring in the Subaru viscous
coupling,
that was my point with the hybrid AWD system in Toyotas. Since the front
and rear drives are mechanically separate, all torque vectoring to the
rear
wheels has to be done electrically by energising the rear motor to
balance
its torque output with that applied to the front wheels by the ICE and
electric motor. That occurs under acceleration.
Your point that the rear motor was only used when the front wheels loose traction, was completely wrong, not to mention that the rear motor is
also used to charge the battery.
Front and rear motors charge the battery (coasting and braking)You would be wrong. I road tested heaps at every dealer along the coast
Battery drives front and rear wheels (never seen it, maybe in EV mode)
Since I expect that your SUV (Yaris cross?) is only FWD so you obviously >>> have no practical experience of the Toyota AWD system in action.
here but all they had for sale then and there were AWDs. I rented an AWD
hybrid for a time and worked out then that I didnrCOt want to sacrifice the >> spare wheel for AWD. I meant to have one in Tassie when there but all
they
had left on my late arrival was a damn Nissan qasqai. So I do have
experience with them
The experience doesn't seem to have helped you learn much about Toyota
AWDs.
and settled for the Corolla from
Port Macquarie since it was on the floor, had a spare, had a decent boot
and was FWD, not AWD.
You have said that before, but recently you have said that you traded
the Corolla in on an SUV of some sort.
On 16/08/2026 11:26 am, Keithr0 wrote:
On 16/08/2026 10:47 am, Noddy wrote:
He bought a Yaris? :)That's only a guess, but he has traded his Corolla for an SUV of some
For fuck's sake :)
sort. Compared to what a Yaris used to be, it's a bloody big car, I
had one parked next to the RAV the other day and it wasn't that much
smaller.
Whatever it is, hope it fucking kills him.
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assistingAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous
our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted
to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before
anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling
radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced
2 tyres on the WRX.
coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair
of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in
the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and
viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever
admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow
for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and
fitting
Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is
fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a differential
Not concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect a
viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not tyres
of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to one end
of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It is
1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a half
worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a different brand
of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end of the WRX, then
that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO* the tread depth
variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing tyres when they
are only a little *past* half worn or at about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same sense
as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical connection between
the front and rear axles and the two ends of the vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have an open differential
in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions have a small independent
open rear differential driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat buildup which
will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is total lockup or
seizure resulting in no differential action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most cluelessYou are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to
hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system :)
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
He once again proved he hasn't a clue.
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could be fitted >>>>>> to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used before >>>>>> anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.Any significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous >>>>> coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a pair >>>>> of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only replaced >>>>>> 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey
Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in
the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and
viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will ever >>>> admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow
for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and
fitting
fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern is,
differential
instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect a
viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not tyres
of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to one end
of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl
actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It isSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a half
worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple that
variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a different brand
of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end of the WRX, then
that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO* the tread depth
variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing tyres when they
are only a little *past* half worn or at about double the legal limit.
Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same sense
as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical connection
between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the vehicle are
driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have an open
differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions have a small
independent open rear differential driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things wouldDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an automatic
limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the
viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat buildup
which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal viscous
coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is total
lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between front and
rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to
hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
He once again proved he hasn't a clue.--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could beAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous >>>>>> coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a
fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used >>>>>>> before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only
replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey >>>>> Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in
the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and
viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will
ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow
for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and
fitting
fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern
differential
is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect
a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not
tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to
one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other.
What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? ItSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a
half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple
that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a
different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end
of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO*
the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing
tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at about double
the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the
vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have
an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions
have a small independent open rear differential driven by a separate
electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the
viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat
buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal
viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is
total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between
front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to
hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him
anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
--He once again proved he hasn't a clue.
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:They get no say what so ever on that
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is >>>> fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could beAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous >>>>>>> coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a >>>>>>> pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used >>>>>>>> before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only
replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey >>>>>> Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in >>>>>> the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and >>>>>> viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will
ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow >>>>> for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and >>>>> fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern
differential
is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect >>>> a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not
tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to >>>> one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other. >>>> What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? ItSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a >>>> half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple
that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a
different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end >>>> of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO*
the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing >>>> tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at about double >>>> the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the
vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have >>>> an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions
have a small independent open rear differential driven by a separate >>>> electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would >>>>> fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the >>>> viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat
buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal >>>> viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is
total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between
front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to >>>>> hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system >>>>> :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him
anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get a lot of say in that.
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far you
get.
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
It's a pretty strong argument, especially given the complexity and
repair costs of modern cars.
A few people are finding that out in recent years and it is costing them $thousands$. Love the ones who mod their fourbys, then break it and
wonder why the warranty was voided.
I like some of these lift kits they fit
- leaves the CVs permanently running at high angles and, man, does that aggravate wear. Some of the lift kits even make the vehicles hazardous
to drive since, apart from raising the CofG, they also create bump steer issues
For good reason, lease companies *insist* on their vehicles only being worked on by accredited mechanics.
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 09:10:30 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote:
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:-aThey get no say what so ever on that
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he
will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear
axle, and fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention,
was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and aSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by
a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn,
the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with
those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get a lot of say in that.
Bullshit they do
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far you
get.
We aren't talking about warranty parts and labour claims
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could beAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous >>>>>> coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a
fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used >>>>>>> before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only
replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey >>>>> Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in
the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and
viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will
ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow
for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and
fitting
fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern
differential
is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect
a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not
tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to
one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other.
What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? ItSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a
half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple
that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a
different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end
of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO*
the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing
tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at about double
the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the
vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have
an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions
have a small independent open rear differential driven by a separate
electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the
viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat
buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal
viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is
total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between
front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to
hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him
anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
On 17/08/2026 7:36 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 09:10:30 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>
wrote:
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of >>>>>> variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>>
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he >>>>>>>> will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern >>>>>> was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, >>>>>> was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a >>>>>> a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double orSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one >>>>>> end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION >>>>>> TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at >>>>>> about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids >>>>>> have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by >>>>>> a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, >>>>>> the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with >>>>>> those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing >>>>>>> system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
They get a lot of say in that.
Bullshit they do
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far you >>> get.
We aren't talking about warranty parts and labour claims
who said?
means the rear motor is torque vectored *ONLY* when there
is slippage at the front wheels or hard acceleration.
No point having the rear motor and not using it for acceleration. After
all, that is the whole point of the hybrid system. But you don't need
the rear motor when cruising. You don't even need it then for torque vectoring.
For the record, torque vectoring can mean an *increase* of torque or a decrease of torque depending on what the yaw sensor and the G sensor are signalling. This also feeds into the ESC and traction control. It is why Hybrid AWDs have no need for any form of differential torque vectoring
or locking differential.
Under normal cruising, the F/R torque split should be 100:0 on your RAV4
and the motor should energise dynamically whenever slip at the front
wheels is detected or when pulling away from a stop. You should see that
on your energy flow display.
What might surprise you is that the F/R
torque split can be up to a *rear biased* 80:20 split. I can only
envisage a situation where I might want 80% to the rear and only 20%
torque to the front being where I'm ascending very steep hills and the rearward weight transfer unloads the front wheels and allows them to
spin. That is the only circumstance where cutting most torque to the
front makes sense.
Speaking of torque splitting, this one is different;
https://www.setf.com/magazine/learn/crown-hybrid-max
Wonder if we'll ever see it here. It would definitely take the dull out
of Toyota.-a ;-)
Since the topic was about torque vectoring in the Subaru viscous
coupling,
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could beAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used >>>>>>>> before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only
replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in >>>>>> the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and >>>>>> viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will
ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow >>>>> for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle,
and fitting
is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern
differential
is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being
fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to
the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was
this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? ItSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a
half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple
that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a
different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them
up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the
vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by a
separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the
viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat
buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal
viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is
total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between
front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim
to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him
anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are free to
ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but then that will
be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb who serviced the vehicle.
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV in
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he
will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear
axle, and fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention,
was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and aSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by
a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn,
the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with
those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are free to
ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but then that
will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb who serviced
the vehicle.
for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing the work.
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one is >>>> fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was assisting >>>>>>>> our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes could beAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the Viscous >>>>>>> coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, with a >>>>>>> pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it.
fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the term was used >>>>>>>> before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their rolling >>>>>>>> radius for a given size but thread depth only made a small
difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only
replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the Dozey >>>>>> Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone in >>>>>> the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX and >>>>>> viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he will
ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as
usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to allow >>>>> for different rotational speeds between the front and rear axle, and >>>>> fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a
differential
They get no say what so ever on thatNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern
is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will* affect >>>> a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern was not
tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being fitted to >>>> one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to the other. >>>> What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? ItSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a a >>>> half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or triple
that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a
different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one end >>>> of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION TO*
the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend replacing >>>> tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at about double >>>> the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the
vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids have >>>> an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD versions
have a small independent open rear differential driven by a separate >>>> electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things would >>>>> fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous
coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other
end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, the >>>> viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat
buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the metal >>>> viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with those is
total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential action between
front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim to >>>>> hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing system >>>>> :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like him
anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their vehicles whilst the car is under warranty.
Of course you are free to ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty
at risk
but then that will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb
who serviced the vehicle.
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
Never that simple.
They will just deny anyway leaving the customer as the meat in a shit sandwich.
Pleb won't admit he fucked up and won't fix it (he never admits he is
wrong or has made a mistake and he is incapable of learning) and he'll shovel responsibility back on the dealer
while the dealer washes their hands of the problem because unqualified
pleb (who claimed to be qualified) isn't.
On 17/8/2026 12:44 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of >>>>>> variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>>
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he >>>>>>>> will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern >>>>>> was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, >>>>>> was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a >>>>>> a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double orSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one >>>>>> end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION >>>>>> TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at >>>>>> about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids >>>>>> have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by >>>>>> a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, >>>>>> the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with >>>>>> those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing >>>>>>> system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are free to
ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but then that
will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb who serviced
the vehicle.
trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV in
for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing the
work.
That's very likely especially if its just a service, theoretically they will be supervised by a qualified person and their work checked although the latter is unlikely unless they are new first year.
Any "qualified" mechanic in Australia can service a car without
affecting the warranty
but only dealers or authorized service centres can do warranty work and make warranty claims.
I serviced my own Hilux during its warranty period and Toyota still--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
fixed a noisy 5th gear problem under warranty just before the warranty expired, no questions were asked about its service history possibly
because I used to buy Toyota branded oil and filters from the Toyota
dealer mostly because they were cheaper than any aftermarket parts shop.
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 09:10:30 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote:
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:-aThey get no say what so ever on that
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he
will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear
axle, and fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention,
was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and aSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by
a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn,
the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with
those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get a lot of say in that.
Bullshit they do
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far you
get.
We aren't talking about warranty parts and labour claims
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
--The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
It's a pretty strong argument, especially given the complexity and
repair costs of modern cars.
We aren't talking about warranty claims, we are talking
about stuff like oil and filter and tyre and wheel changes
A few people are finding that out in recent years and it is costing
them $thousands$. Love the ones who mod their fourbys, then break it
and wonder why the warranty was voided.
Mods are a different matter entirely
I like some of these lift kits they fit
Again, a different matter entirely
- leaves the CVs permanently running at high angles and, man, does
that aggravate wear. Some of the lift kits even make the vehicles
hazardous to drive since, apart from raising the CofG, they also
create bump steer issues
For good reason, lease companies *insist* on their vehicles only being
worked on by accredited mechanics.
That is complete bullshit with routine stuff like oil and filter and
tyre and wheel changes
On 17/8/2026 9:36 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 09:10:30 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>
wrote:
Bullshit they do
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:They get no say what so ever on that
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of >>>>>> variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>>
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he >>>>>>>> will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern >>>>>> was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, >>>>>> was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a >>>>>> a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double orSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one >>>>>> end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION >>>>>> TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at >>>>>> about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids >>>>>> have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by >>>>>> a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, >>>>>> the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with >>>>>> those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing >>>>>>> system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get a lot of say in that.
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far you >>> get.
We aren't talking about warranty parts and labour claims
You might not be but Clocky and I were.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Reissued so even you can get the gist.... hopefully.
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
It's a pretty strong argument, especially given the complexity and
repair costs of modern cars.
We aren't talking about warranty claims, we are talking
about stuff like oil and filter and tyre and wheel changes
A few people are finding that out in recent years and it is costing
them $thousands$. Love the ones who mod their fourbys, then break it
and wonder why the warranty was voided.
Mods are a different matter entirely
I like some of these lift kits they fit
Again, a different matter entirely
- leaves the CVs permanently running at high angles and, man, does
that aggravate wear. Some of the lift kits even make the vehicles
hazardous to drive since, apart from raising the CofG, they also
create bump steer issues
For good reason, lease companies *insist* on their vehicles only being >>> worked on by accredited mechanics.
That is complete bullshit with routine stuff like oil and filter and
tyre and wheel changes
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV in
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he
will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear
axle, and fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
differential
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention,
was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and aSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by
a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn,
the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with
those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are free to
ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but then that
will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb who serviced
the vehicle.
for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing the work.
On 17/8/2026 12:44 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote: >>>>
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of >>>>>> variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I >>>>>>>>>> only replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords >>>>>>>> WRX and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that >>>>>>>> he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of
differential
concern is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there
*will* affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me
concern was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new*
tyres being fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn*
tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl actually said, and you
omitted to mention, was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? >>>>>> It is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of thingsSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
and a a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double >>>>>> or triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. >>>>>> If a different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on >>>>>> one end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in
*ADDITION TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru
recommend replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half >>>>>> worn or at about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. >>>>>> Go look them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of
the vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota
Hybrids have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the >>>>>> AWD versions have a small independent open rear differential
driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
viscous coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is >>>>>> an automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the
other end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in
turn, the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected >>>>>> by heat buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually >>>>>> the metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode
with those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential >>>>>> action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing >>>>>>> system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are free to
ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but then that
will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb who serviced
the vehicle.
trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV
in for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing the
work.
That's very likely especially if its just a service, theoretically they
will be supervised by a qualified person and their work checked although
the latter is unlikely unless they are new first year.
Any "qualified" mechanic in Australia can service a car without
affecting the warranty but only dealers or authorized service centres
can do warranty work and make warranty claims.
I serviced my own Hilux during its warranty period and Toyota still
fixed a noisy 5th gear problem under warranty just before the warranty expired, no questions were asked about its service history possibly
because I used to buy Toyota branded oil and filters from the Toyota
dealer mostly because they were cheaper than any aftermarket parts shop.
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 12:04:05 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their
rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the
Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he
will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear
axle, and fitting
variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a
differential
-aThey get no say what so ever on that-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern
was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention,
was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and aSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double or
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one
end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION
TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at
about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same
sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids
have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by
a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly
underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn,
the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with
those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing
system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty.
Legally they get no say on that with stuff like oil changes, filter
changes,
tyre changes, wheel changes, repairs after an accident etc
Of course you are free to ignore that and put your new vehicle
warranty at risk
It is at no warranty risk
but then that will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb
who serviced the vehicle.
That's true of anything you get done by anyone
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
Never that simple.
Wrong, as always
They will just deny anyway leaving the customer as the meat in a shit
sandwich.
And the small claims system will tell the manufacturer to go and fuck
itself
--Pleb won't admit he fucked up and won't fix it (he never admits he is
wrong or has made a mistake and he is incapable of learning) and he'll
shovel responsibility back on the dealer
And the small claims system will tell who ever did the work to go and
fuck itself
while the dealer washes their hands of the problem because unqualified
pleb (who claimed to be qualified) isn't.
The dealer won't necessarily ever get involved if its not a warranty claim
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 14:10:31 +1000, Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au> wrote:
On 17/8/2026 12:44 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why >>>>>>> one is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits >>>>>>>>>> and, with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly >>>>>>>>>> exceeded it.
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors. >>>>>>>>>>> What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I >>>>>>>>>>> only replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords >>>>>>>>> WRX and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that >>>>>>>>> he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, >>>>>>>> as usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to >>>>>>>> allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>>> axle, and fitting
care of variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of
differential
concern is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there >>>>>>> *will* affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me >>>>>>> concern was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* >>>>>>> tyres being fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* >>>>>>> tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl actually said, and you
omitted to mention, was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? >>>>>>> It is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things >>>>>>> and a a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double >>>>>>> or triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. >>>>>>> If a different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already >>>>>>> on one end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in >>>>>>> *ADDITION TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru >>>>>>> recommend replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half >>>>>>> worn or at about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, notSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
mine. Go look them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of >>>>>>> the vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota
Hybrids have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the >>>>>>> AWD versions have a small independent open rear differential
driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added
viscous coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is >>>>>>> an automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the
other end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in >>>>>>> turn, the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected >>>>>>> by heat buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and
eventually the metal viscous coupling plates. The most common
failure mode with those is total lockup or seizure resulting in >>>>>>> no differential action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless >>>>>>>> "experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both
claim to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the
licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like >>>>>> him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on
their vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are
free to ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but
then that will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb
who serviced the vehicle.
trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV
in for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing
the work.
That's very likely especially if its just a service, theoretically
they will be supervised by a qualified person and their work checked
although the latter is unlikely unless they are new first year.
Any "qualified" mechanic in Australia can service a car without
affecting the warranty
Correct and it doesnt have to be a qualified mechanic either,
you are free to do oil changes, filter changes, plug changes,--
tyre changes, wheel changes, tyre rotations etc yourself if
you want to and that doesn't void your warranty if you do
that correctly
but only dealers or authorized service centres can do warranty work
and make warranty claims.
Thats ever stated when there is no dealer anywhere
near where the car breaks and you need to get a
mechanic to make the care drivable again
I serviced my own Hilux during its warranty period and Toyota still
fixed a noisy 5th gear problem under warranty just before the warranty
expired, no questions were asked about its service history possibly
because I used to buy Toyota branded oil and filters from the Toyota
dealer mostly because they were cheaper than any aftermarket parts shop.
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 16:45:27 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote:
On 17/8/2026 9:36 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 09:10:30 +1000, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>
wrote:
-aBullshit they do
On 17/8/2026 8:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:-aThey get no say what so ever on that
-a On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:-aYes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why >>>>>>> one is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits >>>>>>>>>> and, with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly >>>>>>>>>> exceeded it.
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors. >>>>>>>>>>> What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I >>>>>>>>>>> only replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords >>>>>>>>> WRX and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that >>>>>>>>> he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, >>>>>>>> as usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to >>>>>>>> allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>>> axle, and fitting
care of variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a-aNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of
differential
concern is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there >>>>>>> *will* affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me >>>>>>> concern was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* >>>>>>> tyres being fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* >>>>>>> tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl actually said, and you
omitted to mention, was this;
-a >>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
-aYou know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? >>>>>>> It is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things >>>>>>> and a a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double >>>>>>> or triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. >>>>>>> If a different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already >>>>>>> on one end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in >>>>>>> *ADDITION TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru >>>>>>> recommend replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half >>>>>>> worn or at about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, notSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
mine. Go look them up.
-aBTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of >>>>>>> the vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota
Hybrids have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the >>>>>>> AWD versions have a small independent open rear differential
driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)-aDarren, the differential can be a standard diff with added
viscous coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is >>>>>>> an automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
-aIf both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the
other end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in >>>>>>> turn, the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected >>>>>>> by heat buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and
eventually the metal viscous coupling plates. The most common
failure mode with those is total lockup or seizure resulting in >>>>>>> no differential action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless >>>>>>>> "experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both
claim to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the
licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like >>>>>> him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get a lot of say in that.
Take your warranty parts and labour claims to them and see how far
you get.
-aWe aren't talking about warranty parts and labour claims
You might not be but Clocky and I were.
How odd that you never said anything like that
And you both are STILL completely wrong
with all of routine maintenance, repairs
after an accident and doing your own routine
maintenance, none of which voids your warranty
This is what Clocky wrote;
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
--There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Reissued so even you can get the gist.... hopefully.
You are too stupid to work out that that claim is just plain wrong
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
It's a pretty strong argument, especially given the complexity and
repair costs of modern cars.
-aWe aren't talking about warranty claims, we are talking
about stuff like oil and filter and tyre and wheel changes
A few people are finding that out in recent years and it is costing
them $thousands$. Love the ones who mod their fourbys, then break it
and wonder why the warranty was voided.
-aMods are a different matter entirely
And those don't void your warranty with stuff like
the sound system, internet system, video players
etc unless they fuck the electrical system
I like some of these lift kits they fit
-aAgain, a different matter entirely
- leaves the CVs permanently running at high angles and, man, does
that aggravate wear. Some of the lift kits even make the vehicles
hazardous to drive since, apart from raising the CofG, they also
create bump steer issues
For good reason, lease companies *insist* on their vehicles only
being worked on by accredited mechanics.
-aThat is complete bullshit with routine stuff like oil and filter and
tyre and wheel changes
And repairs after an accident
On 17/8/2026 2:22 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 12:04:05 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com>
wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why one >>>>>> is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes care of >>>>>> variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs wasAny significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits and, >>>>>>>>> with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly exceeded it. >>>>>>>>>
assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors.
What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I only >>>>>>>>>> replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords WRX >>>>>>>> and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that he >>>>>>>> will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, as >>>>>>> usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to
allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a
differential
They get no say what so ever on thatNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of concern >>>>>> is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there *will*
affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me concern >>>>>> was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* tyres being >>>>>> fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* tyres fitted to >>>>>> the other. What Daryl actually said, and you omitted to mention, >>>>>> was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? It >>>>>> is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things and a >>>>>> a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double orSubaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. If a >>>>>> different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already on one >>>>>> end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in *ADDITION >>>>>> TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru recommend
replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half worn or at >>>>>> about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not mine. Go look
them up.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of the >>>>>> vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota Hybrids >>>>>> have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the AWD
versions have a small independent open rear differential driven by >>>>>> a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added viscous >>>>>> coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is an
automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the other >>>>>> end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in turn, >>>>>> the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected by heat >>>>>> buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and eventually the
metal viscous coupling plates. The most common failure mode with >>>>>> those is total lockup or seizure resulting in no differential
action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless
"experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both claim >>>>>>> to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the licensing >>>>>>> system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like
him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on their
vehicles whilst the car is under warranty.
Legally they get no say on that with stuff like oil changes, filter
changes, tyre changes, wheel changes, repairs after an accident etc
If the car is accident damaged whilst under *factory* warranty, it must
be repaired to factory standard.
That means all parts must be new and genuine.
Try and get insurance companies to adhere to that. I did, way back in
the distant past, small ding on my Corolla, $6,300 to repair. The
insurance company fought, and lost.
Of course you are free to ignore that and put your new vehicle
warranty at risk
It is at no warranty risk
If you get an accident damaged car repaired at a shonky shop with SH or aftermarket parts, the dealer is quite entitled to deny related warranty claims.
This is something the fourby modding crowd is discovering to their utter chagrin. John Cadogan mentions this on his Youtube channel very often.
but then that will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb >>> who serviced the vehicle.
That's true of anything you get done by anyone
The most they get to do is to deny a warranty
claim if they can prove that he has fucked up
Never that simple.
Wrong, as always
They will just deny anyway leaving the customer as the meat in a shit
sandwich.
And the small claims system will tell the manufacturer to go and fuck
itself
Ah, they won't.
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2Pleb won't admit he fucked up and won't fix it (he never admits he is
wrong or has made a mistake and he is incapable of learning) and he'll >>> shovel responsibility back on the dealer
And the small claims system will tell who ever did the work to go and
fuck itself
while the dealer washes their hands of the problem because unqualified >>> pleb (who claimed to be qualified) isn't.
The dealer won't necessarily ever get involved if its not a warranty
claim
On 17/8/2026 2:36 pm, Rod Speed wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 14:10:31 +1000, Daryl <dwalford@westpine.com.au>
wrote:
On 17/8/2026 12:44 pm, Keithr0 wrote:Correct and it doesnt have to be a qualified mechanic either,
On 17/08/2026 12:04 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/08/2026 6:03 am, Rod Speed wrote:Qualified as having a mechanic's licence, or qualified as having been >>>> trained on that particular model? I suspect that when I take the RAV >>>> in for it's first 12mo/15K service, it will be an apprentice doing
On Mon, 17 Aug 2026 05:59:24 +1000, Clocky <notgonna@happen.com> >>>>>> wrote:
On 16/08/2026 5:20 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 16/8/2026 9:53 am, Noddy wrote:
On 16/08/2026 9:30 am, Clocky wrote:Yes Darren, well aware of how a diff works and the reason why >>>>>>>> one is fitted to vehicles. In this case, the centre diff takes >>>>>>>> care of variations in drive between front and rear wheels.
On 15/08/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
When I worked at Ford Tractors one of my many jobs was >>>>>>>>>>>> assisting our engineer to work out what brand and tyre sizes >>>>>>>>>>>> could be fitted to the various FWA (front wheel assist, the >>>>>>>>>>>> term was used before anyone called them 4WD's) tractors. >>>>>>>>>>>> What we learnt was that different brands varied in their >>>>>>>>>>>> rolling radius for a given size but thread depth only made a >>>>>>>>>>>> small difference so I knew exactly what I was doing when I >>>>>>>>>>>> only replaced 2 tyres on the WRX.Any significant difference generates excessive heat in the >>>>>>>>>>> Viscous coupling. Subaru have specs for tread depth limits >>>>>>>>>>> and, with a pair of *half worn* tyres, you most certainly >>>>>>>>>>> exceeded it.
Dumb and dumber... so apt for Mr. "All Imperial" Jeep and the >>>>>>>>>> Dozey Dazzler. What a pair of incompetent clowns.
I hear Google is suffering from slowdowns... apparently someone >>>>>>>>>> in the Merrimu wastelands is frantically searching - keywords >>>>>>>>>> WRX and viscous coupling. He'll learn something today, not that >>>>>>>>>> he will ever admit it.
You have absolutely no fucking idea what you're talking about, >>>>>>>>> as usual. The reason why the WRX has a centre differential is to >>>>>>>>> allow for different rotational speeds between the front and rear >>>>>>>>> axle, and fitting
tyres of different tread patterns is *not* going to cause a >>>>>>>>> differentialNot concerned about different tread patterns, the issue of
concern is, instead, the *rolling radius* and differences there >>>>>>>> *will* affect a viscous coupling. FWIW, the issue that caused me >>>>>>>> concern was not tyres of different tread patterns but two *new* >>>>>>>> tyres being fitted to one end of a vehicle with two *half worn* >>>>>>>> tyres fitted to the other. What Daryl actually said, and you >>>>>>>> omitted to mention, was this;
>>> Not sure if the RAV4 is constant AWD, if so if its like
You know what the maximum variation that Subaru actually allow? >>>>>>>> It is 1.6mm. That is bugger all in the overall scheme of things >>>>>>>> and a a half worn tyre compared to a new tyre would easily double >>>>>>>> or triple that variation. It really depends on the tyre selected. >>>>>>>> If a different brand of tyre is used to replace what is already >>>>>>>> on one end of the WRX, then that needs (MUST) be catered for in >>>>>>>> *ADDITION TO* the tread depth variation. Here's the rub, Subaru >>>>>>>> recommend replacing tyres when they are only a little *past* half >>>>>>>> worn or at about double the legal limit. Subaru figures, not >>>>>>>> mine. Go look them up.Subaru's they do recommend having the same tyres on each
corner. On the WRX we replaced 2 tyres (same brand and
size) on the same axle so we had 2 new tyres on one axle
and 2 half worn tyres on the other axle and it didn't
cause any noticeable issues.
BTW, it is hard to describe the RAV4 as Constant AWD in the same >>>>>>>> sense as the Subaru given there is absolutely no mechanical
connection between the front and rear axles and the two ends of >>>>>>>> the vehicle are driven *independently of each other*. Toyota >>>>>>>> Hybrids have an open differential in the hybrid transaxle and the >>>>>>>> AWD versions have a small independent open rear differential >>>>>>>> driven by a separate electric motor.
issue. Jesus Christ, the way you imbeciles carry on the things >>>>>>>>> would fail with a difference in tyre pressures :)Darren, the differential can be a standard diff with added
viscous coupling or just a viscous coupling. In other words it is >>>>>>>> an automatic limited slip diff in viscous coupling form.
If both tyres at the same end of the car were run significantly >>>>>>>> underinflated for any length of time compared to those at the >>>>>>>> other end, then yes, the rolling radius will be affected and, in >>>>>>>> turn, the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling will be affected >>>>>>>> by heat buildup which will damage the viscous fluid and
eventually the metal viscous coupling plates. The most common >>>>>>>> failure mode with those is total lockup or seizure resulting in >>>>>>>> no differential action between front and rear drives.>
You and your mental mate are far and away *the* most clueless >>>>>>>>> "experts" I've ever come across, and the fact that you both >>>>>>>>> claim to hold "licenses" makes a mockery of the value of the >>>>>>>>> licensing system :)
You are clearly putting on display why you couldn't get any
apprenticeship ever.
There is a reason why manufacturers won't let clueless plebs like >>>>>>> him anywhere near their cars while they are under warranty.
They get no say what so ever on that
Yeah they specify only qualified people can service and work on
their vehicles whilst the car is under warranty. Of course you are >>>>> free to ignore that and put your new vehicle warranty at risk but
then that will be on you and you'll have to fight the useless pleb >>>>> who serviced the vehicle.
the work.
That's very likely especially if its just a service, theoretically
they will be supervised by a qualified person and their work checked
although the latter is unlikely unless they are new first year.
Any "qualified" mechanic in Australia can service a car without
affecting the warranty
Yes it does!
--- Synchronet 3.22a-Linux NewsLink 1.2you are free to do oil changes, filter changes, plug changes,
tyre changes, wheel changes, tyre rotations etc yourself if
you want to and that doesn't void your warranty if you do
that correctly
but only dealers or authorized service centres can do warranty work
and make warranty claims.
Thats ever stated when there is no dealer anywhere
near where the car breaks and you need to get a
mechanic to make the care drivable again
I serviced my own Hilux during its warranty period and Toyota still
fixed a noisy 5th gear problem under warranty just before the warranty >>> expired, no questions were asked about its service history possibly
because I used to buy Toyota branded oil and filters from the Toyota
dealer mostly because they were cheaper than any aftermarket parts
shop.
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