• What size generator to handle water pressure booster pump surge current?

    From Maria Sophia@mariasophia@comprehension.com to alt.home.repair on Thu Mar 12 15:10:10 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair


    PG&E gave me a kit of a free Bluetti AC200P and Yeti 1500X battery plus a
    free backup power transfer meter and a 20-foot long thick NEMA L14-30
    (30-amp, 120/240-V twist-lock) cable to connect a portable generator.

    But PG&E rebated only $300 dollars toward a portable generator that met
    their standards, so I bought the DuroMax XP5500EH which works fine except
    it blows the instant that the water pressure booster pump kicks on.

    The well water tanks are only a dozen or two dozen feet above the house so there's not enough head for more than a few psi of water pressure so
    there's a large blue pressure tank and a 220VAC pump that runs it.
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    The problem is that the DuroMax 30-amp fast-blow breaker kicks off the
    instant the water pressure booster pump kicks on, even as the 30-amp
    slow-blow fuses on the PG&E proprietary cable never blow.

    What happens is the generator is humming along just fine, and then I hear whoooooom as it slows down and then it speeds back up after the circuit breaker trips. I tried physically holding the circuit breaker on, but that
    was doomed to fail so I only tried that a couple of time before giving up.

    Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help?
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  • From Douche Nozzle@douch@douche.nozzle to alt.home.repair on Sat Mar 14 05:55:49 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

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    On 3/12/26 18:10, Maria Sophia wrote:
    PG&E gave me a kit of a free Bluetti AC200P and Yeti 1500X battery plus a free backup power transfer meter and a 20-foot long thick NEMA L14-30 (30-amp, 120/240-V twist-lock) cable to connect a portable generator.

    But PG&E rebated only $300 dollars toward a portable generator that met
    their standards, so I bought the DuroMax XP5500EH which works fine except
    it blows the instant that the water pressure booster pump kicks on.

    The well water tanks are only a dozen or two dozen feet above the house so there's not enough head for more than a few psi of water pressure so
    there's a large blue pressure tank and a 220VAC pump that runs it.
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    The problem is that the DuroMax 30-amp fast-blow breaker kicks off the instant the water pressure booster pump kicks on, even as the 30-amp slow-blow fuses on the PG&E proprietary cable never blow.

    What happens is the generator is humming along just fine, and then I hear whoooooom as it slows down and then it speeds back up after the circuit breaker trips. I tried physically holding the circuit breaker on, but that was doomed to fail so I only tried that a couple of time before giving up.

    Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help?

    Why such a big booster pump?

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/12/26 18:10, Maria Sophia wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
    cite="mid:10ovdk3$1997j$1@paganini.bofh.team">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">
    PG&amp;E gave me a kit of a free Bluetti AC200P and Yeti 1500X battery plus a free backup power transfer meter and a 20-foot long thick NEMA L14-30
    (30-amp, 120/240-V twist-lock) cable to connect a portable generator.

    But PG&amp;E rebated only $300 dollars toward a portable generator that met their standards, so I bought the DuroMax XP5500EH which works fine except
    it blows the instant that the water pressure booster pump kicks on.

    The well water tanks are only a dozen or two dozen feet above the house so there's not enough head for more than a few psi of water pressure so
    there's a large blue pressure tank and a 220VAC pump that runs it.
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    The problem is that the DuroMax 30-amp fast-blow breaker kicks off the
    instant the water pressure booster pump kicks on, even as the 30-amp
    slow-blow fuses on the PG&amp;E proprietary cable never blow.

    What happens is the generator is humming along just fine, and then I hear whoooooom as it slows down and then it speeds back up after the circuit breaker trips. I tried physically holding the circuit breaker on, but that
    was doomed to fail so I only tried that a couple of time before giving up.

    Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help? </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p>Why such a big booster pump?</p>
    </body>
    </html>

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  • From Maria Sophia@mariasophia@comprehension.com to alt.home.repair on Mon Mar 16 00:00:55 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

    Douche Nozzle wrote:
    Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help?

    Why such a big booster pump?

    The plumbing came with the house. That's all I know about the "why".

    The booster jet pump is wired for 220VAC. The placard says this:
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    There's a separate well pump five hundred (or so) feed underground.
    The well pump fills separate five-thousand gallon (or so) water tanks.

    The pressure at the bottom of a 12-foot tall (or so) tank is low.
    The booster pump boost that ~5psi (or so) to about ~50psi (or so).

    There is a four-foot tall (or so) blue steel rubber bladder pressure tank.
    I think it reduces the number of times the booster pump has to run.

    When I run a garden hose, for example, the booster pump turns on every five minutes (or so) for about 30 seconds (or so), so that's all I can tell you.

    There's an irrigation system, a pool, a barn, and a house it has to feed.
    How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes?
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  • From redacted@devnull@redacted.dnc to alt.home.repair on Mon Mar 16 06:12:45 2026
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    On 3/15/26 19:00, Maria Sophia wrote:
    Douche Nozzle wrote:
    Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help? >> Why such a big booster pump?
    The plumbing came with the house. That's all I know about the "why".

    The booster jet pump is wired for 220VAC. The placard says this:
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    There's a separate well pump five hundred (or so) feed underground.
    The well pump fills separate five-thousand gallon (or so) water tanks.

    The pressure at the bottom of a 12-foot tall (or so) tank is low.
    The booster pump boost that ~5psi (or so) to about ~50psi (or so).

    There is a four-foot tall (or so) blue steel rubber bladder pressure tank.
    I think it reduces the number of times the booster pump has to run.

    When I run a garden hose, for example, the booster pump turns on every five minutes (or so) for about 30 seconds (or so), so that's all I can tell you.

    There's an irrigation system, a pool, a barn, and a house it has to feed.
    How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes?


    FWIW, my drilled well is 100 ft with a 240v, 1/2hp submersible pump set at 70 feet.

    The pump feeds directly into a 40/60psi pressurized bladder tank. It draws about 1500 watts.

    During a power outage, a Honda eu7000i generator starts/runs it easily.


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/15/26 19:00, Maria Sophia wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
    cite="mid:10p7dn7$28paa$1@paganini.bofh.team">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">Douche Nozzle wrote:
    </pre>
    <blockquote type="cite">
    <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">Do you think an additional startup capacitor on the booster pump will help?
    </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">
    Why such a big booster pump?
    </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">
    The plumbing came with the house. That's all I know about the "why".

    The booster jet pump is wired for 220VAC. The placard says this:
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L

    There's a separate well pump five hundred (or so) feed underground.
    The well pump fills separate five-thousand gallon (or so) water tanks.

    The pressure at the bottom of a 12-foot tall (or so) tank is low.
    The booster pump boost that ~5psi (or so) to about ~50psi (or so).

    There is a four-foot tall (or so) blue steel rubber bladder pressure tank.
    I think it reduces the number of times the booster pump has to run.

    When I run a garden hose, for example, the booster pump turns on every five minutes (or so) for about 30 seconds (or so), so that's all I can tell you.

    There's an irrigation system, a pool, a barn, and a house it has to feed.
    How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes? </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>FWIW, my drilled well is 100 ft with a 240v, 1/2hp submersible
    pump set at 70 feet.</p>
    <p>The pump feeds directly into a 40/60psi pressurized bladder tank.
    It draws about 1500 watts.</p>
    <p>During a power outage, a Honda eu7000i generator starts/runs it
    easily.</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    </body>
    </html>

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  • From Maria Sophia@mariasophia@comprehension.com to alt.home.repair on Mon Mar 16 10:03:07 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

    redacted wrote:
    How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes?


    FWIW, my drilled well is 100 ft with a 240v, 1/2hp submersible pump set at 70 feet.
    The pump feeds directly into a 40/60psi pressurized bladder tank. It draws about 1500 watts.
    During a power outage, a Honda eu7000i generator starts/runs it easily.

    Thanks for that real-world input as I don't have the experience of others.

    Your setup is interesting. You have lots of water. You must. If you don't
    need to fill up tanks, I'm assuming you have lots of water to tap into.

    We have in the Santa Cruz mountains only water pockets here & there.
    So we drill much deeper and the well pump runs only for a minute or so.

    10 When the well pump free spins, it turns off automatically.
    20 Within a given interval (usually set to an hour or so) it restarts.
    30 IF storage tank = FULL, then stop, else GOTO 10

    The point being it takes a few days to fill up a water tank for us.
    You seem to getting the volume on demand. So that knocks out one pump.

    Am I correct in assuming you have only 1 pump which does all 3 jobs?
    1. The pump pulls water out of the well "on demand"
    2. The 30-feet of 70'-100' cylinder "is" your water "tank" (so to speak)
    3. The same pump pressurizes the bladder tank for the whole system

    It's interesting your pump is half the size of mine (in terms of HP),
    yet it does all 3 jobs at the same time (storage + pressure + volume).

    I wonder which takes the most pump energy (pressure or volume)?
    But even so, your Honda has surge current capacity my DuroMax doesn't have.

    Honda EU7000iS
    a. Honda EU7000iS has 7000 surge watts (DuroMaqx XP5500EH is 6900 on gas)
    b. Honda EU7000iS has 5500 rated watts (DuroMax XP5500EH is 5500)
    c. Honda EU7000iS has an inverter (DuroMax XP5500EH is not an inverter)
    d. Honda EU7000iS has ~35iV40 A surge (DuroMax XP5500EH is 30A max)
    <https://www.northerntool.com/products/honda-inverter-generator-7000-surge-watts-5500-rated-watts-electric-start-model-eu7000isnan-100557>
    <https://www.duromaxpower.com/products/duromax-xp5000eh-5000-watt-electric-start-dual-fuel-hybrid-portable-generator>

    Notice they're seemingly close, but the Honda is way (way!) better.
    The Honda has sustained surge capability & excellent voltage regulation.

    My Duromax XP5500EH generator noticeably slows down (whoooom...) and within
    a second (or so) speeds up when it trips from the booster turning on.
    10 Generator is humming along but booster is ready to kick on
    20 All of a sudden, the generator bogs down audibly
    30 The generator RPM drops audibly due to a voltage sag I guess
    40 Then the generator fast-breaker trips
    50 And the generator goes back to fast RPM (but no output power)

    My neighbor told me that since my booster pump already starts but the
    breaker trips within seconds as it kicks on, I'm not torque-limited.
    a. The generator can supply the initial inrush,
    b. But it cannot sustain the surge long enough to reach full speed.

    He says an electronic soft-starter reduces the peak inrush current in half.
    He said he has a Variable Frequency Drive but that's more expensive.

    PS: I just learned NEMA code L means a high locked-rotor kVA per hp
    a. Locked-rotor kVA per HP is about 10
    b. So at 240VAC, that's ~40 amps inrush current

    Looking this up, it seems
    a. The generator almost gets the motor through startup
    b. But the problem is duration, not peak
    c. So a soft-starter may reduce the duration & severity of the inrush
    d. Which lets the motor reach speed before the breaker gives up
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  • From Maria Sophia@mariasophia@comprehension.com to alt.home.repair on Mon Mar 16 10:40:21 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

    Maria Sophia wrote:
    I just learned NEMA code L means a high locked-rotor kVA per hp

    Given:
    General Electric AC Motor Thermally Protected Jet Pump Motor
    Mod: 5KC39QN1157AX HP: 1 HZ: 60 V: 115/230 PH: 1 RPM: 3450 CODE: L
    Note for some strange reason, motors use 230 V but generators use 240 V.

    Apparently that 1 hp, code-L motor is pulling ~38-44 A at startup on 230V.
    <https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/locked-rotor-code-d_917.html>
    so the pump is a high-inrush motor, by it's "Locked Rotor = L" design.
    <https://joliettech.com/information/easa-electrical-engineering-handbook/nema-code-letters-for-ac-motors-easa-electrical-engineering-handbook/>

    The big fat inductor is acting like a short circuit on startup.
    LRA = (1000 x 9.5) / 230V = ~41 amps

    The Honda EU7000iS spec *looks* like it can't handle that current.
    a. 7000 W starting, 5500 W running, 120/240 V inverter
    b. Running 5500/240 = 22.9
    aA
    c. Peak 7000/240 = 29.2 A
    But the vastly better inverter rides through brief spikes, apparently.
    <https://powerequipment.honda.com/Generators/models/eu7000is>

    Apparently a single-phase soft-starter can cut startup current by ~50-60%.
    It might bring inrush current low enough for the DuroMax XP5500EH. Or not.

    What size?
    Hell if I know.

    Dunno what the spec is, as I never dealt with electronic soft starters.
    Looking it up... it goes in series with both hot legs between the
    pressure switch (which is mounted on the motor) and the motor.
    <https://www.eltwin.com/hyper/products/soft-starter-hyper-single>
    <https://www.franklinwater.com/products/drives-starters-and-protection/soft-starters/>
    <https://norwall.com/products/generac-sure-start-16-32-fla-soft-start-kit-8008/>

    I think I'd need *more* than these minimum soft-start specifications:
    a. For a 1 hp, 230 V, single-phase pump motor
    b. Locked Rotor Amps (at least ~40-45 starting amps at 230 V)
    c. Full Load Amps (at least ~7-10 running amps at 230 V)
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  • From Maria Sophia@mariasophia@comprehension.com to alt.home.repair on Tue Mar 17 13:59:12 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

    redacted wrote:
    Am I correct in assuming you have only 1 pump which does all 3 jobs?
    1. The pump pulls water out of the well "on demand"
    2. The 30-feet of 70'-100' cylinder "is" your water "tank" (so to speak) >> 3. The same pump pressurizes the bladder tank for the whole system

    Yup! I failed to mention that the well's static water level is at about 40 ft.

    I guess the 1/2 hp submersible pump is pumping against a 50 foot column of water and 60 psi tank pressure. We don't have an irrigation system or
    a pool but the pump always seems to keep up with our water demands.

    According to the water softener meter, we use about 120 gallons/day

    Thanks for that real-world interesting information, as each of us has a different setup for our region's water supply. If you have a 6-inch casing,
    and water from 40 to 100 feet, that's about 88 gallons static.

    Just to make the 60 psi (at 2.31 psi/foot) that's 138 feet of dynamic head.

    1 psi is 2.31 feet of water so if your pressure tank is at ground level,
    the static lift is the 40 feet to the water level, but the water level may
    drop and the tank may not be at ground level, so we can call that 60 to 80
    feet of static lift.

    That puts you around 200 to 230 feet of total dynamic head, which Google
    tells me is about 5 to 7 gpm for a 1/2 HP submersible pump.

    Is that about right? <https://www.rpswaterpumps.com/blogs/water-pump-faqs/how-many-gpm-gallons-per-minute-does-a-house-need>

    https://www.duromaxpower.com/products/duromax-xp5000eh-5000-watt-electric-start-dual-fuel-hybrid-portable-generator>

    Notice they're seemingly close, but the Honda is way (way!) better.
    The Honda has sustained surge capability & excellent voltage regulation.

    Honda vs Duromax vs Champion vs Harbor Freight vs SumTingWongZapPow.
    I'm not sure what the right choice is or if there even is a difference. If/when the Honda poops, I might replace it with a pair of DuroMax gens and a parallel kit.

    My DuroMax XP5500EH has 4,500 running watts with 5,500 surge which, at 240V
    is only 19 running Amps and 23 surge amps, which doesn't cut the mustard.

    Your EU7000iS has a larger engine, better voltage regulation, and a much
    more conservative rating philosophy. From what I've read, Honda inverters handle starting surges cleanly and recover voltage almost instantly.

    But your Honda costs 10 times what my DuroMax cost, so I would have needed,
    I think, something in between that is less expensive but could handle the
    surge current for my booster pump.

    The $2000 HF Predator 9500 Inverter Generator has a 40 Amp surge and 32 amp running current (rated 9500W peak and 7600 running) so maybe a soft start
    is cheaper since I only have the problem when PG&E's grid drops on me.

    At this point, unless I replace the generator with one like yours, I'm
    thinking I'd need a soft start with at least these minimum specifications:
    a. For a 1 hp, 230 V, single-phase pump motor
    b. Locked Rotor Amps (at least ~40-45 starting amps at 230 V)
    c. Full Load Amps (at least ~7-10 running amps at 230 V)

    Eltwin Hyper SureStart Single Phase Soft Starter
    $290 230V (16-32 FLA) - SS1B16-32SN https://hvacdirect.com/eltwin-hyper-surestart-single-phase-soft-starter-230v-16-32-fla-ss1b16-32sn.html

    I see this for $260 at Amazon, but I wonder in rueful hindsight if I
    shouldn't have just added the $300 to the $300 that PG&E gave me and then
    $300 of my own to get a $900 generator instead of these workarounds. https://www.amazon.com/Eltwin-Hyper-SureStart-Protection-SS1B8-16SN/dp/B0D3MDJWY8

    Supposedly the soft starter will turn that brutal 30 to 50Amp locked rotor surge into maybe 15 to 20 Amps, which my current generator can handle.

    But both are a guess since I'll never know until I plug it in. :(
    That's why I was asking for real-world use models, like yours.

    Thanks for your insight. It was very helpful.
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  • From redacted@devnull@redacted.dnc to alt.home.repair on Tue Mar 17 07:47:53 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.home.repair

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    On 3/16/26 10:03, Maria Sophia wrote:
    redacted wrote:
    How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes? >>
    FWIW, my drilled well is 100 ft with a 240v, 1/2hp submersible pump set at 70 feet.
    The pump feeds directly into a 40/60psi pressurized bladder tank. It draws about 1500 watts.
    During a power outage, a Honda eu7000i generator starts/runs it easily.
    Thanks for that real-world input as I don't have the experience of others.

    Your setup is interesting. You have lots of water. You must. If you don't need to fill up tanks, I'm assuming you have lots of water to tap into.

    We have in the Santa Cruz mountains only water pockets here & there.
    So we drill much deeper and the well pump runs only for a minute or so.

    10 When the well pump free spins, it turns off automatically.
    20 Within a given interval (usually set to an hour or so) it restarts.
    30 IF storage tank = FULL, then stop, else GOTO 10

    The point being it takes a few days to fill up a water tank for us.
    You seem to getting the volume on demand. So that knocks out one pump.

    Am I correct in assuming you have only 1 pump which does all 3 jobs?
    1. The pump pulls water out of the well "on demand"
    2. The 30-feet of 70'-100' cylinder "is" your water "tank" (so to speak)
    3. The same pump pressurizes the bladder tank for the whole system

    Yup! I failed to mention that the well's static water level is at about 40 ft.

    I guess the 1/2 hp submersible pump is pumping against a 50 foot column of water and 60 psi tank pressure. We don't have an irrigation system or
    a pool but the pump always seems to keep up with our water demands.

    According to the water softener meter, we use about 120 gallons/day


    It's interesting your pump is half the size of mine (in terms of HP),
    yet it does all 3 jobs at the same time (storage + pressure + volume).

    I wonder which takes the most pump energy (pressure or volume)?
    But even so, your Honda has surge current capacity my DuroMax doesn't have.

    Honda EU7000iS
    a. Honda EU7000iS has 7000 surge watts (DuroMaqx XP5500EH is 6900 on gas)
    b. Honda EU7000iS has 5500 rated watts (DuroMax XP5500EH is 5500)
    c. Honda EU7000iS has an inverter (DuroMax XP5500EH is not an inverter)
    d. Honda EU7000iS has ~35-iV40 A surge (DuroMax XP5500EH is 30A max)
    <https://www.northerntool.com/products/honda-inverter-generator-7000-surge-watts-5500-rated-watts-electric-start-model-eu7000isnan-100557>
    <https://www.duromaxpower.com/products/duromax-xp5000eh-5000-watt-electric-start-dual-fuel-hybrid-portable-generator>

    Notice they're seemingly close, but the Honda is way (way!) better.
    The Honda has sustained surge capability & excellent voltage regulation.

    Honda vs Duromax vs Champion vs Harbor Freight vs SumTingWongZapPow.

    I'm not sure what the right choice is or if there even is a difference.

    If/when the Honda poops, I might replace it with a pair of DuroMax gens and a parallel kit.



    My Duromax XP5500EH generator noticeably slows down (whoooom...) and within
    a second (or so) speeds up when it trips from the booster turning on.
    10 Generator is humming along but booster is ready to kick on
    20 All of a sudden, the generator bogs down audibly
    30 The generator RPM drops audibly due to a voltage sag I guess
    40 Then the generator fast-breaker trips
    50 And the generator goes back to fast RPM (but no output power)

    My neighbor told me that since my booster pump already starts but the
    breaker trips within seconds as it kicks on, I'm not torque-limited.
    a. The generator can supply the initial inrush,
    b. But it cannot sustain the surge long enough to reach full speed.

    He says an electronic soft-starter reduces the peak inrush current in half. He said he has a Variable Frequency Drive but that's more expensive.

    PS: I just learned NEMA code L means a high locked-rotor kVA per hp
    a. Locked-rotor kVA per HP is about 10
    b. So at 240VAC, that's ~40 amps inrush current

    Looking this up, it seems
    a. The generator almost gets the motor through startup
    b. But the problem is duration, not peak
    c. So a soft-starter may reduce the duration & severity of the inrush
    d. Which lets the motor reach speed before the breaker gives up


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/16/26 10:03, Maria Sophia wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
    cite="mid:10p92ir$1tr8$1@nnrp.usenet.blueworldhosting.com">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">redacted wrote:
    </pre>
    <blockquote type="cite">
    <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">How big are the pumps to boost well-water pressure in other normal homes?
    </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">

    FWIW, my drilled well is 100 ft with a 240v, 1/2hp submersible pump set at 70 feet.
    The pump feeds directly into a 40/60psi pressurized bladder tank. It draws about 1500 watts.
    During a power outage, a Honda eu7000i generator starts/runs it easily.
    </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">
    Thanks for that real-world input as I don't have the experience of others.

    Your setup is interesting. You have lots of water. You must. If you don't
    need to fill up tanks, I'm assuming you have lots of water to tap into.

    We have in the Santa Cruz mountains only water pockets here &amp; there.
    So we drill much deeper and the well pump runs only for a minute or so.

    10 When the well pump free spins, it turns off automatically.
    20 Within a given interval (usually set to an hour or so) it restarts.
    30 IF storage tank = FULL, then stop, else GOTO 10

    The point being it takes a few days to fill up a water tank for us.
    You seem to getting the volume on demand. So that knocks out one pump.

    Am I correct in assuming you have only 1 pump which does all 3 jobs?
    1. The pump pulls water out of the well "on demand"
    2. The 30-feet of 70'-100' cylinder "is" your water "tank" (so to speak)
    3. The same pump pressurizes the bladder tank for the whole system</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p>Yup! I failed to mention that the well's static water level is at
    about 40 ft.</p>
    <p>I guess the 1/2 hp submersible pump is pumping against a 50 foot
    column of water and 60 psi tank pressure. We don't have an
    irrigation system or a pool but the pump always seems to keep up
    with our water demands.</p>
    <p>According to the water softener meter, we use about 120
    gallons/day</p>
    <blockquote type="cite"
    cite="mid:10p92ir$1tr8$1@nnrp.usenet.blueworldhosting.com">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">

    It's interesting your pump is half the size of mine (in terms of HP),
    yet it does all 3 jobs at the same time (storage + pressure + volume).

    I wonder which takes the most pump energy (pressure or volume)?
    But even so, your Honda has surge current capacity my DuroMax doesn't have.

    Honda EU7000iS
    a. Honda EU7000iS has 7000 surge watts (DuroMaqx XP5500EH is 6900 on gas)
    b. Honda EU7000iS has 5500 rated watts (DuroMax XP5500EH is 5500)
    c. Honda EU7000iS has an inverter (DuroMax XP5500EH is not an inverter)
    d. Honda EU7000iS has ~35-iV40 A surge (DuroMax XP5500EH is 30A max)
    <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="https://www.northerntool.com/products/honda-inverter-generator-7000-surge-watts-5500-rated-watts-electric-start-model-eu7000isnan-100557">&lt;https://www.northerntool.com/products/honda-inverter-generator-7000-surge-watts-5500-rated-watts-electric-start-model-eu7000isnan-100557&gt;</a>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="https://www.duromaxpower.com/products/duromax-xp5000eh-5000-watt-electric-start-dual-fuel-hybrid-portable-generator">&lt;https://www.duromaxpower.com/products/duromax-xp5000eh-5000-watt-electric-start-dual-fuel-hybrid-portable-generator&gt;</a>

    Notice they're seemingly close, but the Honda is way (way!) better.
    The Honda has sustained surge capability &amp; excellent voltage regulation.</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p>Honda vs Duromax vs Champion vs Harbor Freight vs
    SumTingWongZapPow.-a</p>
    <p>I'm not sure what the right choice is or if there even is a
    difference.</p>
    <p>If/when the Honda poops, I might replace it with a pair of
    DuroMax gens and a parallel kit.</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <blockquote type="cite"
    cite="mid:10p92ir$1tr8$1@nnrp.usenet.blueworldhosting.com">
    <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">

    My Duromax XP5500EH generator noticeably slows down (whoooom...) and within
    a second (or so) speeds up when it trips from the booster turning on.
    10 Generator is humming along but booster is ready to kick on
    20 All of a sudden, the generator bogs down audibly
    30 The generator RPM drops audibly due to a voltage sag I guess
    40 Then the generator fast-breaker trips
    50 And the generator goes back to fast RPM (but no output power)

    My neighbor told me that since my booster pump already starts but the
    breaker trips within seconds as it kicks on, I'm not torque-limited.
    a. The generator can supply the initial inrush,
    b. But it cannot sustain the surge long enough to reach full speed.

    He says an electronic soft-starter reduces the peak inrush current in half.
    He said he has a Variable Frequency Drive but that's more expensive.

    PS: I just learned NEMA code L means a high locked-rotor kVA per hp
    a. Locked-rotor kVA per HP is about 10
    b. So at 240VAC, that's ~40 amps inrush current

    Looking this up, it seems
    a. The generator almost gets the motor through startup
    b. But the problem is duration, not peak
    c. So a soft-starter may reduce the duration &amp; severity of the inrush
    d. Which lets the motor reach speed before the breaker gives up
    </pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
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