Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOve >> not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on YouWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go
as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove
the head first.)
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOve >>> not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on YouWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual
Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go
as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it
down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove
the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I say developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
On 01/01/2026 09:39, Handsome Jack wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOve >>>> not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a goWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual >>> rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove
the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I say
developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had
fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj
perhaps.
David Wade <dave@is.invalid> wrote:
On 01/01/2026 09:39, Handsome Jack wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOveWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual >>>> rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go >>>>> as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove >>>> the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I say >>> developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had >>> fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj
perhaps.
+1
David Wade <dave@is.invalid> wrote:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj
perhaps.
+1
On 01/01/2026 11:22, Tricky Dicky wrote:
David Wade <dave@is.invalid> wrote:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj
perhaps.
+1
May not work too well when close to a massive amount of water/metal such
as a radiator. The use always seems to be demonstrated on a length of
copper with no nearby fittings that act as a heat store (albeit at
ambient temperature)
On 01/01/2026 11:58, alan_m wrote:
On 01/01/2026 11:22, Tricky Dicky wrote:I can assure you that i have had an entire radiator freeze and split...:-)
David Wade <dave@is.invalid> wrote:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-hayes-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj
perhaps.
+1
May not work too well when close to a massive amount of water/metal
such as a radiator. The use always seems to be demonstrated on a
length of copper with no nearby fittings that act as a heat store
(albeit at ambient temperature)
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOve >>> not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on YouWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual
Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go
as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it
down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove
the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I say developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
Handsome Jack <jack@handsome.com> wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOve >>>> not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a goWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The usual >>> rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove
the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I say
developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had
fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
Rarely necessary to drain a whole system. If itrCOs a sealed system with an expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system, close
off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the other end
with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is drained down, very little water will come out of the rest of the pipework. If you can get the same TRV (or at least one with he same fittings and dimensions) you should
be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
Tim
Rarely necessary to drain a whole system. If itrCOs a sealed system with an >> expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system, closeBest thing to catch the water -
off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the other end
with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is drained down, very >> little water will come out of the rest of the pipework. If you can get the >> same TRV (or at least one with he same fittings and dimensions) you should >> be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and
expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
Tim
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
On 01/01/2026 14:46, Tim+ wrote:
Handsome Jack <jack@handsome.com> wrote:Best thing to catch the water -
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOveWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The
not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go >>>>> as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
usual
rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove >>>> the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I
say
developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had >>> fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
Rarely necessary to drain a whole system.-a If itrCOs a sealed system
with an
expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system, close
off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the other end
with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is drained down,
very
little water will come out of the rest of the pipework.-a If you can
get the
same TRV (or at least one with he same fittings and dimensions) you
should
be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and
expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
Tim
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/ cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
On 01/01/2026 14:46, Tim+ wrote:
Handsome Jack <jack@handsome.com> wrote:Best thing to catch the water -
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOveWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The
not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go >>>>> as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
usual
rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The
temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove >>>> the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I
say
developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had >>> fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and
quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
Rarely necessary to drain a whole system.-a If itrCOs a sealed system
with an
expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system, close
off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the other end
with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is drained down,
very
little water will come out of the rest of the pipework.-a If you can
get the
same TRV (or at least one with he same fittings and dimensions) you
should
be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and
expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
Tim
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/ cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
On 02/01/2026 11:41, newman wrote:
On 01/01/2026 14:46, Tim+ wrote:
Handsome Jack <jack@handsome.com> wrote:Best thing to catch the water -
On Tue, 30 Dec 2025 21:58:52 -0000 (UTC), Brian wrote:
Tom <ce0537a20a14ccd3ebf37f2484174906@example.com> wrote:
Just been grappling with this problem. We have a red hot radrCO and lrCOveWhen Thermostatic Rad Valves stick, they tend to stick closed. The
not been able to release the valve following plumbersrCO advice on You >>>>>> Tube vids. Been hesitant to touch the brass nut but will give it a go >>>>>> as it seems to have worked for others. Thanks Andy Bennet for the
advice.
usual
rCytappingrCO trick is to open them.
If the rad is hot, the valve is open.
Either the head isnrCOt fitted correctly or the head is damaged. The >>>>> temperature sensitive bit is in the head, it presses on the pin.
If the pin is rCyuprCO the valve is open. Use something metal to push it >>>>> down.
If it moves, it isnrCOt stuck. IrCOve never seen one stick open. A rCytaprCO on
the side of the body normally frees a stuck closed / down pin. ( Remove >>>>> the head first.)
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - I >>>> say
developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought I had >>>> fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's back and >>>> quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
Rarely necessary to drain a whole system.-a If itrCOs a sealed system
with an
expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system, close >>> off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the other end
with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is drained down,
very
little water will come out of the rest of the pipework.-a If you can
get the
same TRV (or at least one with he same fittings and dimensions) you
should
be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and
expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
Tim
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/
cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
Agreed, but the one shown is getting too full to empty without spillage.
Handsome Jack <jack@handsome.com> wrote:
One of my TRVs has just developed a drip from the centre pin area - IRarely necessary to drain a whole system. If itrCOs a sealed system with
say developed, really it's a problem we had last winter that I thought
I had fixed by working the pin up and down and adding WD40. Now it's
back and quite a lot worse, so I've had to put a bowl under it.
I don't think I can replace the valve myself as there is no way of
shutting off the water to the rad without draining the system.
an expansion vessel and pressure gauge, just depressurise the system,
close off the lockshield valve and drain the radiator down from the
other end with something to catch the water. Once the radiator is
drained down, very little water will come out of the rest of the
pipework. If you can get the same TRV (or at least one with he same
fittings and dimensions) you should be able to swap the old one out.
If you have an open vented system, you will need to seal the feed and expansion pipes with suitable bungs. Then proceed as above.
snip <
Best thing to catch the water -
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
On 02/01/2026 11:41, newman wrote:
snip <
Best thing to catch the water -
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
Poorly thought out gadget. How are you going to remove it from the pipe? Might be slightly easier if the pipe didn't go into one of the corner holes.
On 02/01/2026 11:41, newman wrote:
snip <
Best thing to catch the water -
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/cffbfd29-bbcb-4843-a420-1a3ad5a8b4ae.__CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg
Poorly thought out gadget. How are you going to remove it from the pipe? Might be slightly easier if the pipe didn't go into one of the corner
holes.
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