From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A
plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 21/02/2026 13:36, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.

Router and fence if you have one...
--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

1. A linisher (an upside down, fixed base, belt sander), here's an
example from a quick search: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Sander-LINISHER-Bench-Large/dp/B0DY2MG6CK.

2. Alternatively, make a jig such that the drawer fits closely into it
and at each side there are shoulders that can support a home-made router
sled (here's inspiration:https://www.rutlands.com/products/router-flattening-sled)
3. Alternatively, dismantle the drawers and put the sides through a thicknesser.
How long/high are the sides that need reducing?
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of >style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already >rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be >rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.

By a 'pad sander' do you mean one that vibrates a rectangular strip of sandpaper?

(The technical name being 'orbital sander' because the motion is
circular, but everyone tends to think an orbital sander is one with a
spinning sandpaper disk.)
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:36, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.

Router and fence if you have one...

That's a point! I do have a router and, while I'm not highly skilled
with it, I generally find I can get it to do what I want.

Thank you for suggesting something I hadn't thought of but which is
probably the best way! :-)
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

No mail <nomail@aolbin.com> wrote:

Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

1. A linisher (an upside down, fixed base, belt sander), here's an
example from a quick search: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Sander-LINISHER-Bench-Large/dp/B0DY2MG6CK.

That looks quite fun! The one in the link isn't a silly price either,
though I doubt if I'd find a lot of use for it.

2. Alternatively, make a jig such that the drawer fits closely into it
and at each side there are shoulders that can support a home-made router sled (here's inspiration:https://www.rutlands.com/products/router-flattening-sled)

Yes, the router solution would seem to be the most suitable, given
that I already have a router (well, two actually).

3. Alternatively, dismantle the drawers and put the sides through a thicknesser.
How long/high are the sides that need reducing?

There's four that are 290mm high and one that may need a tiny bit of
narrowing that's 420mm high.
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where
the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.


--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 21/02/2026 17:32, Fredxx wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit.-a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?-a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well.-a A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where
the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?
--
Sam Plusnet
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 18:56:41 +0000, Sam Plusnet <not@home.com> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 17:32, Fredxx wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit.a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well.a A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where
the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On Sat, 2/21/2026 11:24 AM, Chris Green wrote:

No mail <nomail@aolbin.com> wrote:

Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

1. A linisher (an upside down, fixed base, belt sander), here's an
example from a quick search:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Sander-LINISHER-Bench-Large/dp/B0DY2MG6CK.

That looks quite fun! The one in the link isn't a silly price either,
though I doubt if I'd find a lot of use for it.

2. Alternatively, make a jig such that the drawer fits closely into it
and at each side there are shoulders that can support a home-made router
sled (here's
inspiration:https://www.rutlands.com/products/router-flattening-sled)

Yes, the router solution would seem to be the most suitable, given
that I already have a router (well, two actually).

3. Alternatively, dismantle the drawers and put the sides through a
thicknesser.
How long/high are the sides that need reducing?

There's four that are 290mm high and one that may need a tiny bit of narrowing that's 420mm high.

The linisher has a pipe on the bottom for dust collector output,
and you would normally have a "collector bag" in the box, that
would go over the pipe, and there would be a fitting to hold it in
place. The "box contents" do not list a collector bag (it's a fabric
that keeps the dust in the bag and allows the air to pass).

If you don't do that, and you run a belt sander in the basement
of a house, everything in the basement ends up with a coat of
wood dust on it :-)

and a belt sander is what I use when a woodworking job needs a
dimensional adjustment, but a hand held belt sander can make for
crooked work (taking off more on one end than the other).
Practice on a "stick" of scrap dimensional lumber and see
if you can achieve a result. I bet even the linisher could
make a mess, if you're careless.

The router will do nice work, as long as it has something
to guide it. We used to have a TV program on Saturday mornings,
a father and son team, and dad would find the most ridiculous
projects to do with the router, making all sorts of fittings to
make the router "do tricks" and so on. And this wasn't "Tim Taylor"
comedy, the two guys were dead serious. I was hoping for a
little variety, like maybe juggling running chain saws to
spice up the plot.

It looks like our local "public television", bought the series from PBS.

https://www.pbs.org/routerworkshop/S300.html

Paul

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 18:56:41 +0000, Sam Plusnet <not@home.com> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 17:32, Fredxx wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference >>> fit.-a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?-a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill >>> with same will allow me to do it well.-a A power plane is likely to be >>> rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where >> the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat. I'm on the boat for
the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home). So I'm probaby seeing a worst
case expansion.

I may just try removing just enough to make them 'acceptable' now and
then they will be OK through most of the rest of the year.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone.
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 21/02/2026 16:18, Chris Green wrote:

The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:36, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference >>>> fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill >>>> with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A
plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.

Router and fence if you have one...

That's a point! I do have a router and, while I'm not highly skilled
with it, I generally find I can get it to do what I want.

Thank you for suggesting something I hadn't thought of but which is
probably the best way! :-)

You will need to adjust the outfeed fence to account for the removed
timber otherwise you will end up with a step or taper.
--
Regards
wasbit
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 22/02/2026 07:36, Chris Green wrote:

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 18:56:41 +0000, Sam Plusnet <not@home.com> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 17:32, Fredxx wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of >>>>> style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already >>>>> rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference >>>>> fit.-a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?-a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill >>>>> with same will allow me to do it well.-a A power plane is likely to be >>>>> rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such >>>>> that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where >>>> the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat. I'm on the boat for
the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home). So I'm probaby seeing a worst
case expansion.

I may just try removing just enough to make them 'acceptable' now and
then they will be OK through most of the rest of the year.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone.

You say they are currently an 'interference fit' - that sounds a lot
less than 2mm to me!

If it is only that sort of amount, then I'd go with the sanding over the router. I have seen the use of old-fashioned carbon paper to see exactly
where two surfaces are rubbing, there is probably a more modern equivalent.

(I have something similar on one of our wardrobe drawers, will fix ...
one day)

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

jkn wrote:

I have
seen the use of old-fashioned carbon paper to see exactly where two
surfaces are rubbing, there is probably a more modern equivalent.

... French Chalk works very well

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 21/02/2026 21:20, Cursitor Doom wrote:

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

+1001

REAL woodrao is a highly unstable material: The craft of joinery is
largely there to cope with that.

e.g. panelled doors are there to allow the panel - which must always
have a cross grain direction - to expand in the frame - which is all along-the-grain on the larger dimensions.

I am surprised that drawer fronts have become proplematic though
--
rCLIt is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established
authorities are wrong.rCY

rCo Voltaire, The Age of Louis XIV

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 22/02/2026 07:36, Chris Green wrote:

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 18:56:41 +0000, Sam Plusnet <not@home.com> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 17:32, Fredxx wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of >>>>> style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already >>>>> rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference >>>>> fit.-a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?-a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill >>>>> with same will allow me to do it well.-a A power plane is likely to be >>>>> rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such >>>>> that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A few mm sounds OTT.

I would check where the binding is occurring and sand accordingly. If
not obvious then treat the symptoms and apply a dry lubricant such as
PTFE. If it still binds then areas of contact will be more obvious where >>>> the dry lubricant is wiped away. Wax is an alternative.

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat. I'm on the boat for
the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home). So I'm probaby seeing a worst
case expansion.

Even damper in South and West France and both the Loire and the Seine
are full to bursting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUdXePWK6pg

I may just try removing just enough to make them 'acceptable' now and
then they will be OK through most of the rest of the year.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 21:20, Cursitor Doom wrote:

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

+1001

REAL woodrao is a highly unstable material: The craft of joinery is
largely there to cope with that.

e.g. panelled doors are there to allow the panel - which must always
have a cross grain direction - to expand in the frame - which is all along-the-grain on the larger dimensions.

I am surprised that drawer fronts have become proplematic though

The shallower drawer fronts which are a single piece of wood with the
grain horizontal are OK. Its the larger drawer fronts where the panel
in the middle of the 'frame' (they are simple, shaker, style) has the
grain running vertically that have grown significantly.

When I got them (last spring) they were 495mm across, now they are
500mm across.

So I have definitely proved that wood expands across the grain much
more than along the grain! :-)
--
Chris Green
-+
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 22/02/2026 13:10, Andrew wrote:

On 22/02/2026 07:36, Chris Green wrote:

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat.-a I'm on the boat for
the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home).-a So I'm probaby seeing a worst
case expansion.

Even damper in South and West France and both the Loire and the Seine
are full to bursting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUdXePWK6pg

Curiously, inside a heated house, that will probably be drier...than summer

My doors stick in summer

I may just try removing just enough to make them 'acceptable' now and
then they will be OK through most of the rest of the year.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone.

--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".


--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

On 22/02/2026 14:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 22/02/2026 13:10, Andrew wrote:

On 22/02/2026 07:36, Chris Green wrote:

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat.-a I'm on the boat for
the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home).-a So I'm probaby seeing a worst
case expansion.

Even damper in South and West France and both the Loire and the Seine
are full to bursting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUdXePWK6pg

Curiously, inside a heated house, that will probably be drier...than summer

My doors stick in summer

Well it can be just as humid as winter, hotter air carrying more
water vapour

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On 22/02/2026 14:19, Chris Green wrote:

The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 21:20, Cursitor Doom wrote:

I wonder if there is a practical way to dehumidify the drawers & get
them back to their original shape/size?

No point. Wood expands and contracts according to the time of the year
and the prevaling temperature and humidity. You have to just choose a
happy medium for your particular climate. Mine varies between 53% and
98% in February and August respectively. Pick your median and adjust
for that.

+1001

REAL woodrao is a highly unstable material: The craft of joinery is
largely there to cope with that.

e.g. panelled doors are there to allow the panel - which must always
have a cross grain direction - to expand in the frame - which is all
along-the-grain on the larger dimensions.

I am surprised that drawer fronts have become proplematic though

The shallower drawer fronts which are a single piece of wood with the
grain horizontal are OK. Its the larger drawer fronts where the panel
in the middle of the 'frame' (they are simple, shaker, style) has the
grain running vertically that have grown significantly.

When I got them (last spring) they were 495mm across, now they are
500mm across.

So I have definitely proved that wood expands across the grain much
more than along the grain! :-)

Which is why hardwood flooring needs to sit in the room where
it is tobe fitted for a minimum amount of time before fitting
so that it can acclimatise.
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On 22/02/2026 19:25, Andrew wrote:

On 22/02/2026 14:19, Chris Green wrote:

When I got them (last spring) they were 495mm across, now they are
500mm across.

So I have definitely proved that wood expands across the grain much
more than along the grain! :-)

Well known fact

Which is why hardwood flooring needs to sit in the room where
it is tobe fitted for a minimum amount of time before fitting
so that it can acclimatise.

Even then its still moves a lot
--
Of what good are dead warriors? rCa Warriors are those who desire battle
more than peace. Those who seek battle despite peace. Those who thump
their spears on the ground and talk of honor. Those who leap high the
battle dance and dream of glory rCa The good of dead warriors, Mother, is
that they are dead.
Sheri S Tepper: The Awakeners.

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On 22/02/2026 19:22, Andrew wrote:

On 22/02/2026 14:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 22/02/2026 13:10, Andrew wrote:

On 22/02/2026 07:36, Chris Green wrote:

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com> wrote:

These drawer fronts are in the galley on a boat.-a I'm on the boat for >>>> the first time this year, I installed the drawers last year, during
the summer (June/July) and it has been a **very** damp winter here
in Northern France (much like at home).-a So I'm probaby seeing a worst >>>> case expansion.

Even damper in South and West France and both the Loire and the Seine
are full to bursting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUdXePWK6pg

Curiously, inside a heated house, that will probably be drier...than
summer

My doors stick in summer

Well it can be just as humid as winter, hotter air carrying more
water vapour

Then you havent got ventilation under control.
Open the windows for 10 minutes once a day...
--
"Women actually are capable of being far more than the feminists will
let them."



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On 21/02/2026 13:30, Chris Green wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

A hand held belt sander is likely to gouge out large amounts in
seconds if you are not experienced in using it.
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
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On 22/02/2026 09:34, wasbit wrote:

On 21/02/2026 16:18, Chris Green wrote:

The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 21/02/2026 13:36, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2026 13:30:02 +0000, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of >>>>> style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already >>>>> rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference >>>>> fit.-a So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square?-a I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill >>>>> with same will allow me to do it well.-a A power plane is likely to be >>>>> rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such >>>>> that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

I would use a pad sander for this and just keep an eye on the edges. A >>>> plane's too agressive unless you're really well-practiced in using
one. A flap wheel likewise too harsh and uneven. Pad sander or do it
by hand with a block and some 60 grit glass paper.

Router and fence if you have one...

That's a point! I do have a router and, while I'm not highly skilled
with it, I generally find I can get it to do what I want.

Thank you for suggesting something I hadn't thought of but which is
probably the best way! :-)

You will need to adjust the outfeed fence to account for the removed
timber otherwise you will end up with a step or taper.

It's only edge trimming so a router bit with a bearing on the right end
and, say, the straight factory edge of a piece of ply or mdf as the
guide. The ply/mdf is clamped to the draw top with the straight edge
2mm from the draw edge. This is the template for the bearing to follow.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kJcb-JHB6To
The ply is the template

Bwitha single bearingear in mind you can get trimming bits with bearings
at the top, at the bottom or at both ends. For a one off a cheap bit can
be obtained from amazon/ebay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enW2pabgwYw
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
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On 23/02/2026 12:43, alan_m wrote:

Bwitha single bearingear in mind you can get trimming bits with bearings
at the top, at the bottom or at both ends. For a one off a cheap bit can
be obtained from amazon/ebay.

Bear in mind you can get trimming bits with bearings at the top, at the
bottom or at both ends. For a one off a cheap bit with a single bearing
can be obtained from amazon/ebay.
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk
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From Newsgroup: uk.d-i-y

Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:

I have some (rather nice) ash drawer fronts in a plain shaker sort of
style.

They have grown a bit (presumably with damp) and as they were already
rather a close fit between them they are now definitly an interference
fit. So I need to shave probably 2mm or so off the sides.

What's going to be the best way of doing this such that I keep the
edges square? I have planes and such but I doubt if my level of skill
with same will allow me to do it well. A power plane is likely to be
rather excessive on the removal front.

Is there a clever way of 'guiding' something like a belt sander such
that the result ends up square?

Any other ideas?

Make a simple router table. Fasten your router to a square of plywood with
a centre hole for the cutter to protrude. This can be fastened to a bench
or workmate with the cutter up. For a fence just use a piece of wood wide enough for the cutter fit within but thick enough not to distort. In the
centre of the fence cut out a notch slightly deeper and wider than the
cutter diameter. Line up the notch with the cutter and screw down one end
of the fence to the plywood to act as a pivot. Pivot the fence till just
enough of the cutter is beyond the fence to shave off what you require and clamp down the other end of the fence in this position. Using a couple of packers and a straight edge will make the above more accurate.

Switch on the router using the hold button to keep the switch on and simply push the material along the fence to shave off what is required.

WARNING This is a quick and dirty way to make a router table with no safety features so it goes without saying without any guards for protection and an exposed cutter keeping fingers etc. out of the way and employing PPE is essential.

Richard

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