I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a 2
pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and
bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a 2
pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and
bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally
voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a
2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might
be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp
and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally
voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a
2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might
be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp
and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
When you say "repair", what is wrong with it? How old is it? Any chance
of some photos? If it's old, it probably doesn't have any electronics
but just a potentiomer with a switch - similar to on/off/volume control devices which old radios had. If that is the case, you may be able to
get a replacement pot if you carefully check the spec of the old one.
Having said that, if sticking with 12v, it may be a good idea to switch
to an LED bulb - in which case the potentiometer spec would need to be different, and you would need to make sure that the bulb was dimmable.
Where does the 12v currently come from - is there an external power
supply, or does it have a built-in transformer? If there's an external supply so that the lamp itself only has to handle 12v, as jkn has
suggested, its insulation standards may not be suitable for mains.
What size is the current bulbholder? If you *do* convert to mains, the smallest size you could use would probably be ES14.
Photos you say! The free photo sharing sites have all morphed into variations of cloud storage. I have signed up and been dumped by proton drive most recently.
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Please ignore the above nonsense. Really. FFS.
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally
voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a
2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might
be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp
and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
When you say "repair", what is wrong with it? How old is it? Any chance
of some photos? If it's old, it probably doesn't have any electronics
but just a potentiomer with a switch - similar to on/off/volume control devices which old radios had. If that is the case, you may be able to
get a replacement pot if you carefully check the spec of the old one.
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy to
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might
be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp
and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would
think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
dispense with the adjustment feature.
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it
might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage
lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would
think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability to
reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy to
dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v to
the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and third of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it
might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low
wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would
think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability
to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy to
dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v to
the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and third
of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs
mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like
chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
On 20/02/2026 10:11, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it
might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low
wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would
think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability
to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy
to dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v to
the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and third
of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs
mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like
chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
My experience with table lamps 'too good to throw away' is to dismantle
and throw away everything that isn't and then rebuild the rest with
modern electrically safe components...
I am sure there are 12v LED dimmer rubbish kirs out there as featured by
big clive etc.
On 20/02/2026 11:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/02/2026 10:11, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it >>>>>>> might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low
wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would >>>>>> think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability >>>>> to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy
to dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v
to the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and
third of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs
mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like
chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
My experience with table lamps 'too good to throw away' is to
dismantle and throw away everything that isn't and then rebuild the
rest with modern electrically safe components...
I am sure there are 12v LED dimmer rubbish kirs out there as featured
by big clive etc.
This is the table lamp-a-a-a Wasberg Studioilse W084t
Space available 20 deep x 50 wide x 80mm long! Metal casting so
converter would need to be insulated.
On 20/02/2026 12:18, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 11:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/02/2026 10:11, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather >>>>>> precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it >>>>>>>> might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low
wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I
would think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the
electronics.
ability to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, >>>>>> is happy to dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v
to the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and
third of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs
mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like
chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
My experience with table lamps 'too good to throw away' is to
dismantle and throw away everything that isn't and then rebuild the
rest with modern electrically safe components...
I am sure there are 12v LED dimmer rubbish kirs out there as featured
by big clive etc.
This is the table lamp-a-a-a Wasberg Studioilse W084t
Personally I'd throw it away, but chacun |a son go|+t as they say... :-)
You can get nice cob style LED bulbs to fit something like that
is it a two prong fitting? Ah yes - halogen bulb, There are direct replacements in LED for that,
And you may be able to get a module to replace existing electrics.
What has broken?
Is the 12V fed into the lamp base or is that 230V?
Space available 20 deep x 50 wide x 80mm long! Metal casting so
converter would need to be insulated.
Its all doable, it depends on how much time you want to spend
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a 2
pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and
bypass the control system.
On 20/02/2026 12:48, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/02/2026 12:18, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 11:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/02/2026 10:11, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy to dispense with the adjustment feature.
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/ potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v to the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and third of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
My experience with table lamps 'too good to throw away' is to dismantle and throw away everything that isn't and then rebuild the rest with modern electrically safe components...
I am sure there are 12v LED dimmer rubbish kirs out there as featured by big clive etc.
This is the table lamp-a-a-a Wasberg Studioilse W084t
Personally I'd throw it away, but chacun |a son go|+t as they say... :-)
You can get nice cob style LED bulbs to fit something like that
is it a two prong fitting? Ah yes - halogen bulb, There are direct replacements in LED for that,
And you may be able to get a module to replace existing electrics.
What has broken?
Is the 12V fed into the lamp base or is that 230V?
Space available 20 deep x 50 wide x 80mm long! Metal casting so converter would need to be insulated.
Its all doable, it depends on how much time you want to spend
Amazon have my order! 240/12DC converter (1.2 Watts) pack of 2 pin LEDs arriving tomorrow! Now I have to reassemble the lamp holder. 2mm socket head screws inside the reflector!
On 2026-02-19, Timatmarford <tim@marford.uk.com> wrote:
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally
voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a 2
pin halogen bulb.
My initial reaction to repairing any sort of lamp is to ask just what type
of LED I should fit.
That lamp takes a 35W halogen bulb so something like a 5W 12V LED could be a drop-in replacement if the electronics is capable of driving it and still
has its magic smoke. It depends on whether the controller supplies AC or
DC.
A better alternatives is a low-voltage LED fed from a 5/12/19V power-brick. There are low-voltage LED controller modules that can vary brightness too.
If you wanted to be more adventurous there are various circuits for controlling RGB LEDs and she could have a choice of colour too. Extra brownie points if she can control it from her phone.
I'm just sketching out a lamp design for myself that has a shape like a shower-head with individual 0.1" LEDs.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be
possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and
bypass the control system.
I would only consider 240V circuits as a last resort.
On 2026-02-19, Timatmarford <tim@marford.uk.com> wrote:
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp. Originally
voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/potentiometer feeding a 2
pin halogen bulb.
My initial reaction to repairing any sort of lamp is to ask just what type
of LED I should fit.
That lamp takes a 35W halogen bulb so something like a 5W 12V LED could be a drop-in replacement if the electronics is capable of driving it and still
has its magic smoke. It depends on whether the controller supplies AC or
DC.
A better alternatives is a low-voltage LED fed from a 5/12/19V power-brick. There are low-voltage LED controller modules that can vary brightness too.
If you wanted to be more adventurous there are various circuits for controlling RGB LEDs and she could have a choice of colour too. Extra brownie points if she can control it from her phone.
I'm just sketching out a lamp design for myself that has a shape like a shower-head with individual 0.1" LEDs.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it might be
possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low wattage lamp and
bypass the control system.
I would only consider 240V circuits as a last resort.
The lamp is now functioning. It remains to be seen if the owner
(arriving Monday) finds the 2W LED output to be sufficient.
The electrical safety aspect is rather overshadowed by the lack of earth provision in the mains supply cable. I guess the requirement for
flexibility and squashiness in the cotton covered twin core rubber
insulated cable was more important.
On 22/02/2026 11:44, Timatmarford wrote:
The lamp is now functioning. It remains to be seen if the owner
(arriving Monday) finds the 2W LED output to be sufficient.
The electrical safety aspect is rather overshadowed by the lack of
earth provision in the mains supply cable. I guess the requirement for
flexibility and squashiness in the cotton covered twin core rubber
insulated cable was more important.
two core is generally OK if everything is double insulated.
Gratz on getting it working.-a IIRC brighter bulbs than 2W are available
On 20/02/2026 11:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/02/2026 10:11, Timatmarford wrote:
On 20/02/2026 08:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 19/02/2026 20:19, Timatmarford wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:20, jkn wrote:
On 19/02/2026 19:02, Timatmarford wrote:Hmm. The lamp holder is ceramic (heat) and the supply wires rather
I have been tasked with repairing a rather posh table lamp.
Originally voltage 0-12V controlled by a combined switch/
potentiometer feeding a 2 pin halogen bulb.
Fixing the electronics is beyond my current capabilities but it >>>>>>> might be possible to fit a miniature 240V bulb holder, a low
wattage lamp and bypass the control system.
Any pointers?
Probably unwise to switch from a 12V regime to a 230V one. I would >>>>>> think more about sticking with 12V and replacing the electronics.
precariously gripped by a piece of sprung metal. I doubt my ability >>>>> to reassemble it properly. The owner, my eldest daughter, is happy
to dispense with the adjustment feature.
The switch/pot is likely to have 3 contacts - 12v in, switched 12v
to the pot, and 12v or less to the lamp. Simply bridge the 2nd and
third of those so that you just left with an on/off switch.
Only two wires.
The supply dropper is electronic with a pair of transistors/triacs
mounted on a heat sink. Two sets of copper windings that look like
chokes rather than transformers.
If I can't modify it safely, it is going in the bin!
My experience with table lamps 'too good to throw away' is to
dismantle and throw away everything that isn't and then rebuild the
rest with modern electrically safe components...
I am sure there are 12v LED dimmer rubbish kirs out there as featured
by big clive etc.
This is the table lamp-a-a-a Wasberg Studioilse W084t
Space available 20 deep x 50 wide x 80mm long! Metal casting so
converter would need to be insulated.
On 22/02/2026 11:44, Timatmarford wrote:
The lamp is now functioning. It remains to be seen if the owner
(arriving Monday) finds the 2W LED output to be sufficient.
The electrical safety aspect is rather overshadowed by the lack of
earth provision in the mains supply cable. I guess the requirement for
flexibility and squashiness in the cotton covered twin core rubber
insulated cable was more important.
two core is generally OK if everything is double insulated.
Gratz on getting it working.-a IIRC brighter bulbs than 2W are available
On 22/02/2026 12:55, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/2026 11:44, Timatmarford wrote:3-core vintage cotton-covered cable is available from lots of places.
The lamp is now functioning. It remains to be seen if the owner
(arriving Monday) finds the 2W LED output to be sufficient.
The electrical safety aspect is rather overshadowed by the lack of
earth provision in the mains supply cable. I guess the requirement
for flexibility and squashiness in the cotton covered twin core
rubber insulated cable was more important.
two core is generally OK if everything is double insulated.
Gratz on getting it working.-a IIRC brighter bulbs than 2W are available
I got some from this place, not too far away from me -
https://www.lampspares.co.uk/braided-flex-cables
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