FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant - it usually works a treat.
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant - >> it usually works a treat.
FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were Dysons
Abandoned Trolley <that.bloke@microsoft.com> wrote:
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant -
it usually works a treat.
FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were
Dysons
Without knowing their share of the vacuum cleaner market, it doesnrCOt tell you a lot.
Tim
On Tue, 17 Feb 2026 17:16:16 GMT, Another John <lalaw44@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On 17 Feb 2026 at 14:54:15 GMT, "Scott" <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:Do you mean a spray. The internet suggests:
I have a Dyson handheld vacuum cleaner - I think V8 but it does not
seem to have any model number. The high/low power setting switch is
becoming difficult to move. I spoke to the Dyson Centre man, who said
this is not repairable. I thought one of the features of Dyson - apart
from the high price - was supposed to be repairability.
Does this sound correct? Is it likely I could repair it myself? Is
there any lubricant suitable for electrical use? I assume both
graphite and WD40 are totally unsuitable. Any ideas?
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant - >> it usually works a treat.
DO NOT USE SILICONE SPRAY ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, SWITCHES, RELAYS,
ETC. There have been numerous reports that silicone spray can cause
contact problems in switches, noted in multiple posts regarding
automotive problems.
Abandoned Trolley <that.bloke@microsoft.com> wrote:
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant -FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
it usually works a treat.
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were
Dysons
Without knowing their share of the vacuum cleaner market, it doesnAt tell
you a lot.
On Tue, 17 Feb 2026 17:16:16 GMT, Another John <lalaw44@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On 17 Feb 2026 at 14:54:15 GMT, "Scott" <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:Do you mean a spray. The internet suggests:
I have a Dyson handheld vacuum cleaner - I think V8 but it does not
seem to have any model number. The high/low power setting switch is
becoming difficult to move. I spoke to the Dyson Centre man, who said
this is not repairable. I thought one of the features of Dyson - apart
from the high price - was supposed to be repairability.
Does this sound correct? Is it likely I could repair it myself? Is
there any lubricant suitable for electrical use? I assume both
graphite and WD40 are totally unsuitable. Any ideas?
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant - >> it usually works a treat.
DO NOT USE SILICONE SPRAY ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, SWITCHES, RELAYS,
ETC. There have been numerous reports that silicone spray can cause
contact problems in switches, noted in multiple posts regarding
automotive problems.
On 17 Feb 2026 18:36:20 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:
Abandoned Trolley <that.bloke@microsoft.com> wrote:
I interpreted the message as being that a trip to the local recyclingFWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone >>>>lubricant -FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
it usually works a treat.
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were >>> Dysons
Without knowing their share of the vacuum cleaner market, it doesnrCOt tell >>you a lot.
might provide a solution to the problem with my Dyson.
I interpreted the message as being that a trip to the local recycling
might provide a solution to the problem with my Dyson.
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone
lubricant -
it usually works a treat.
FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were Dysons
, at 18:36:20 on Tue, 17 Feb 2026, Tim+<timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> remarked:
Abandoned Trolley <that.bloke@microsoft.com> wrote:
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant -
it usually works a treat.
FWIW ... Down at the local recycling / tip / dump place I recently
noticed that at least half of all the dead vacuum claaners in there were
Dysons
Without knowing their share of the vacuum cleaner market,
it doesnrCOt tell you a lot.
A neighbour ran a High Street vacuum cleaner sales/repair business, and
told me how he spent all day trying to persuade people to buy better appliances than Dyson. If they insisted on Dyson, he was nevertheless
happy, because he knew they'd be back over, and over, again requiring repairs.
Roland Perry <roland@perry.co.uk> wrote:
A neighbour ran a High Street vacuum cleaner sales/repair business, and
told me how he spent all day trying to persuade people to buy better
appliances than Dyson. If they insisted on Dyson, he was nevertheless
happy, because he knew they'd be back over, and over, again requiring
repairs.
What make of cordless vac would be more robust, OOI? There weight matters and I can see being plasticy has an advantage.
IMX the main thing wrong with the Dyson cordless vacs is either the battery wearing out (unsurprising since they pull a lot of current) or people not understanding the vac pulsing which means that it's clogged and you need to empty the bin / change the filter / strip it down to remove fine dust from the innards. The plastic does break - catches on the bin is a common one - but a lot of the time it's not a functional problem.
I'm 100% with you for corded vacs: Just Buy A Henry. I've been fixing their wet vac killed twice by user error: 1. vacuumed up salt sludge and left in the machine (motor rusted and siezed; replacement motor was -u30), 2. vacuumed while full until the motor overheated and melted the float valve (replacement float valve -u30). With replacement parts it keeps on trucking - I don't think a Dyson would manage that kind of abuse.--
Theo
On Tue, 17 Feb 2026 17:16:16 GMT, Another John <lalaw44@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On 17 Feb 2026 at 14:54:15 GMT, "Scott" <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:Do you mean a spray. The internet suggests:
I have a Dyson handheld vacuum cleaner - I think V8 but it does not
seem to have any model number. The high/low power setting switch is
becoming difficult to move. I spoke to the Dyson Centre man, who said
this is not repairable. I thought one of the features of Dyson - apart
from the high price - was supposed to be repairability.
Does this sound correct? Is it likely I could repair it myself? Is
there any lubricant suitable for electrical use? I assume both
graphite and WD40 are totally unsuitable. Any ideas?
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant - >> it usually works a treat.
DO NOT USE SILICONE SPRAY ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, SWITCHES, RELAYS,
ETC. There have been numerous reports that silicone spray can cause
contact problems in switches, noted in multiple posts regarding
automotive problems.
On Tue, 2/17/2026 12:30 PM, Scott wrote:
On Tue, 17 Feb 2026 17:16:16 GMT, Another John <lalaw44@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On 17 Feb 2026 at 14:54:15 GMT, "Scott" <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:Do you mean a spray. The internet suggests:
I have a Dyson handheld vacuum cleaner - I think V8 but it does not
seem to have any model number. The high/low power setting switch is
becoming difficult to move. I spoke to the Dyson Centre man, who said
this is not repairable. I thought one of the features of Dyson - apart >>>> from the high price - was supposed to be repairability.
Does this sound correct? Is it likely I could repair it myself? Is
there any lubricant suitable for electrical use? I assume both
graphite and WD40 are totally unsuitable. Any ideas?
FWIW, I always try lubricating plastic mechanisms with sililcone lubricant -
it usually works a treat.
DO NOT USE SILICONE SPRAY ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, SWITCHES, RELAYS,
ETC. There have been numerous reports that silicone spray can cause
contact problems in switches, noted in multiple posts regarding
automotive problems.
If you have a think about the idea of lube, you have
to consider what the root cause of the friction is.
If you spilled a sticky beverage on the switch, then
the switch might have no other problems with it. A
cleaning or a lubricating, might make sense. This could
especially be the case, where we know the switch is not
switching heavy inductive loads.
*******--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
But if high-current AC inductive loads are being switched,
chances are the switch was not properly rated, and either
a bearing the switch element depends on is about to snap, or
the insulating material holding the contacts is about to fail.
Something is out of tolerance, and the friction is telling
you to "don't press your luck".
Find an exploded-parts-diagram for the beast, and see
if the switch is a commercial one that can be replaced.
We had a Hoover at home (it's at the cottage now) where
the toggle switch wasn't up to the rating for the job
(the usual deal of a 10A switch, being used to switch
10A "very inductive" loads, like stall currents of 100A,
and the switch was not up to it). The switch was
not really making good contact, so the "instructions"
were to stop using the switch, and just plug and unplug
the Hoover instead. Which was sufficient.
We could easily have bypassed the switch entirely on
that Hoover, but without my four tool boxes of bits n' bobs,
it would have been difficult to arrange that at the cottage.
There can be spade lugs and things-you-could-crimp,
to remove the switch for good. It all depends on whether
you think the switch has a "worthwhile" function, as to whether
you bypass it for whatever reason.
Paul
On Wed, 18 Feb 2026 10:45:32 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>
wrote:
If you have a think about the idea of lube, you have
to consider what the root cause of the friction is.
If you spilled a sticky beverage on the switch, then
the switch might have no other problems with it. A
cleaning or a lubricating, might make sense. This could
especially be the case, where we know the switch is not
switching heavy inductive loads.
DC, 21V I think.
On 18/02/2026 14:15, Theo wrote:
Roland Perry <roland@perry.co.uk> wrote:
A neighbour ran a High Street vacuum cleaner sales/repair business, and
told me how he spent all day trying to persuade people to buy better
appliances than Dyson. If they insisted on Dyson, he was nevertheless
happy, because he knew they'd be back over, and over, again requiring
repairs.
What make of cordless vac would be more robust, OOI? There weight matters and I can see being plasticy has an advantage.
Titanium would work better
IMX the main thing wrong with the Dyson cordless vacs is either the battery wearing out (unsurprising since they pull a lot of current) or people not understanding the vac pulsing which means that it's clogged and you need to empty the bin / change the filter / strip it down to remove fine dust from the innards. The plastic does break - catches on the bin is a common one - but a lot of the time it's not a functional problem.
I discovered a portable Henry. Fuck Dyson
They now have a stick vac, but it looks just as plasticy as a Dyson: https://www.myhenry.com/henry-quick
(it also takes bags, and at -u1.30 each for a tiny bag they aren't exactly cheap - I'd get through one per session)
I have a Dyson handheld vacuum cleaner - I think V8 but it does notThese guys may be able to help.
seem to have any model number. The high/low power setting switch is
becoming difficult to move. I spoke to the Dyson Centre man, who said
this is not repairable. I thought one of the features of Dyson - apart
from the high price - was supposed to be repairability.
Roland Perry <roland@perry.co.uk> wrote:
A neighbour ran a High Street vacuum cleaner sales/repair business, and
told me how he spent all day trying to persuade people to buy better
appliances than Dyson. If they insisted on Dyson, he was nevertheless
happy, because he knew they'd be back over, and over, again requiring
repairs.
What make of cordless vac would be more robust, OOI? There weight matters and I can see being plasticy has an advantage.
IMX the main thing wrong with the Dyson cordless vacs is either the battery wearing out (unsurprising since they pull a lot of current) or people not understanding the vac pulsing which means that it's clogged and you need to empty the bin / change the filter / strip it down to remove fine dust from the innards. The plastic does break - catches on the bin is a common one - but a lot of the time it's not a functional problem.
I'm 100% with you for corded vacs: Just Buy A Henry. I've been fixing their wet vac killed twice by user error: 1. vacuumed up salt sludge and left in the machine (motor rusted and siezed; replacement motor was -u30), 2. vacuumed while full until the motor overheated and melted the float valve (replacement float valve -u30). With replacement parts it keeps on trucking - I don't think a Dyson would manage that kind of abuse.
Theo
In the home though a Sebo has given good service for about 18 years and shows no sign of distress
yet except occasionally a conductor has fractured where the flex enters
the handle, easy fix as two screws give access to the terminals enabling a quick shortening of the flex by a couple of inches removing the broken section.
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