• Reference for mechanical characteristic of 3D print process

    From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 03:57:35 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 11:12:20 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Phil Hobbs@pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 11:32:52 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs
    Principal Consultant
    ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
    Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
    Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

    http://electrooptical.net
    http://hobbs-eo.com

    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 12:59:08 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    It's true, but "pretty good" is not a number.

    The heated nozzle is smaller than the feed filament, but cannot be
    that small or the printing speed suffers too much to be economical.

    Joe, known to possess a biggish hot melt gun
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Phil Hobbs@pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 15:11:57 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Yer kidding.
    On 2026-02-27 12:59, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    It's true, but "pretty good" is not a number.

    Really? Whoda thunk? ;)

    Resin printer resolution varies with the resolution of the LCD display
    it's based on, but can easily be 20 microns, which is a lot smaller than
    the nozzle you're going to be using with a filament printer.

    The heated nozzle is smaller than the feed filament, but cannot be
    that small or the printing speed suffers too much to be economical.

    Joe, known to possess a biggish hot melt gun


    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    (Known to possess one of the first 3D printed objects, circa 1992 or
    1993--a hollow sphere, made from Sears hot melt glue)

    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs
    Principal Consultant
    ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
    Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
    Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

    http://electrooptical.net
    http://hobbs-eo.com

    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 13:31:49 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2/27/2026 9:12 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    That would fall in the realm of dimensionality.
    One typically uses "plastic parts" for more than just
    cosmetics.

    I'm concerned with *mechanical* aspects -- tensile
    strength, ability to withstand shear forces, ductility,
    behavior under compression, etc.

    E.g., if I print a part and then expect it to support
    a mass (or, be supported by an aspect of its shape/design),
    will the layers delaminate if the force is orthogonal to
    the printing plane? If I "print" a mounting hole and a
    user uses a screw to secure the device to a surface
    THROUGH that hole, will the plastic crumble or splinter
    as force is applied to tighten the screw? If I print a
    boss with the intent of fastening to it with a self-tapping
    screw, will the penetration of the boss splinter (or
    delaminate) the boss (depending on print orientation)?
    If force is applied to printed surfaces, will their
    deformation be elastic or catastrophic?

    How do materials and filament diameter effect each of these
    issues?

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 18:33:57 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 13:31:49 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 2/27/2026 9:12 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    That would fall in the realm of dimensionality.
    One typically uses "plastic parts" for more than just
    cosmetics.

    I'm concerned with *mechanical* aspects -- tensile
    strength, ability to withstand shear forces, ductility,
    behavior under compression, etc.

    E.g., if I print a part and then expect it to support
    a mass (or, be supported by an aspect of its shape/design),
    will the layers delaminate if the force is orthogonal to
    the printing plane? If I "print" a mounting hole and a
    user uses a screw to secure the device to a surface
    THROUGH that hole, will the plastic crumble or splinter
    as force is applied to tighten the screw? If I print a
    boss with the intent of fastening to it with a self-tapping
    screw, will the penetration of the boss splinter (or
    delaminate) the boss (depending on print orientation)?
    If force is applied to printed surfaces, will their
    deformation be elastic or catastrophic?

    How do materials and filament diameter effect each of these
    issues?

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe
    not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very
    attractive.


    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far
    worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    Joe
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 18:49:02 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Fri, 27 Feb 2026 15:11:57 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    Yer kidding.
    On 2026-02-27 12:59, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs
    <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    It's true, but "pretty good" is not a number.

    Really? Whoda thunk? ;)

    OP wanted numbers.


    Resin printer resolution varies with the resolution of the LCD display
    it's based on, but can easily be 20 microns, which is a lot smaller than
    the nozzle you're going to be using with a filament printer.

    This sounds like a 3D printer that works like a Xerox printer with
    funny ink. Sounds very precise but very slow. Don't think OP was
    talking about this.

    The heated nozzle is smaller than the feed filament, but cannot be
    that small or the printing speed suffers too much to be economical.

    Joe, known to possess a biggish hot melt gun


    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    (Known to possess one of the first 3D printed objects, circa 1992 or
    1993--a hollow sphere, made from Sears hot melt glue)

    Heh. Back then I'd use a wood chisel driven by a 20-ounce urethane potato-masher mallet (Wood is Good, MA-20) for this.

    My Mother had a real Ironwood potato-masher mallet, but I didn't
    inherit it. When the urethane mallets were introduced, there was a
    big debate, but the urethane was in fact better than traditional
    Ironwood - long push versus bang.

    I also use the mallet in the kitchen to drive a Chinese Cleaver
    through recalcitrant gourds.

    Joe
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Phil Hobbs@pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 00:39:24 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> wrote:
    Fri, 27 Feb 2026 15:11:57 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    Yer kidding.
    On 2026-02-27 12:59, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs
    <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is >>>>> melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by >>>>> melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of >>>>> glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    It's true, but "pretty good" is not a number.

    Really? Whoda thunk? ;)

    OP wanted numbers.


    Resin printer resolution varies with the resolution of the LCD display
    it's based on, but can easily be 20 microns, which is a lot smaller than
    the nozzle you're going to be using with a filament printer.

    This sounds like a 3D printer that works like a Xerox printer with
    funny ink. Sounds very precise but very slow. Don't think OP was
    talking about this.
    <snip>

    ItrCOs massively parallel, and the printers are cheap.

    IrCOve never used a resin printer myself, but werCOve had protos made that way, and folk whom I trust have been singing their praises for awhile nowrCoprint speeds of several inches per hour, over the whole platen.

    One link that might be useful is <https://dawoodkhan254.medium.com/11-best-resin-3d-printers-in-2025-ranked-reviewed-7c069baf423c>.


    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
    --- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Fri Feb 27 19:49:06 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2/27/2026 4:33 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 13:31:49 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 2/27/2026 9:12 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    That would fall in the realm of dimensionality.
    One typically uses "plastic parts" for more than just
    cosmetics.

    I'm concerned with *mechanical* aspects -- tensile
    strength, ability to withstand shear forces, ductility,
    behavior under compression, etc.

    E.g., if I print a part and then expect it to support
    a mass (or, be supported by an aspect of its shape/design),
    will the layers delaminate if the force is orthogonal to
    the printing plane? If I "print" a mounting hole and a
    user uses a screw to secure the device to a surface
    THROUGH that hole, will the plastic crumble or splinter
    as force is applied to tighten the screw? If I print a
    boss with the intent of fastening to it with a self-tapping
    screw, will the penetration of the boss splinter (or
    delaminate) the boss (depending on print orientation)?
    If force is applied to printed surfaces, will their
    deformation be elastic or catastrophic?

    How do materials and filament diameter effect each of these
    issues?

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    I disagree. E.g., interlayer bonds seem to be less strong than
    the layers themselves -- suggesting how one could arrange for stresses
    to be distributed in the object. Nylon and PLA are more ductile
    than materials like SLA so expect less "catastrophic" (more plastic) deformation.

    I wouldn't want to experiment with a material (or build orientation)
    only to discover these sorts of things would have been obvious on
    initial inspection.

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe
    not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very
    attractive.

    It seems most suited to verifying form but likely not for actual
    *use* in a generalized "real product". E.g., imagine printing
    something that the user would fasten to a wall surface -- how
    can you be sure the user won't tighten the fastener just a bit too
    much and crack the part? I imagine this is exacerbated by smaller
    parts where you can't just throw extra "material" into the product.

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far
    worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Theo@theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 22:50:57 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
    On 2/27/2026 4:33 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    I disagree. E.g., interlayer bonds seem to be less strong than
    the layers themselves -- suggesting how one could arrange for stresses
    to be distributed in the object. Nylon and PLA are more ductile
    than materials like SLA so expect less "catastrophic" (more plastic) deformation.

    I wouldn't want to experiment with a material (or build orientation)
    only to discover these sorts of things would have been obvious on
    initial inspection.

    The problem is that those things depend on a thousand details, which could
    be different between each print.

    For example, the slicer software sets how the path of the print head moves
    to draw the object. Suppose the slicer makes the head push down harder
    into the previous layer - result will be stronger interlayer bonds. Then
    the next version of the software comes out and changes the slicing algorithm
    - changing all the properties.

    Then you have the problem that the filament differs from manufacturer to manufacturer and sometimes batch to batch.

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe
    not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very attractive.

    It seems most suited to verifying form but likely not for actual
    *use* in a generalized "real product". E.g., imagine printing
    something that the user would fasten to a wall surface -- how
    can you be sure the user won't tighten the fastener just a bit too
    much and crack the part? I imagine this is exacerbated by smaller
    parts where you can't just throw extra "material" into the product.

    There are things you can do with that - eg orient the layers so they're parallel with the load, rather than perpendicular. Then you are applying
    force along the layer rather than between layers. Again that's a function
    of how the part is printed, which is a function of both the software and its hundreds of settings.

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    It's already happening: https://www.voxelmatters.com/new-ferrari-f80-to-integrate-metal-3d-printed-parts/

    Theo
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@glen--canyon.com to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 15:14:59 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs

    PCBs are now roughly 80 years old. They are stiil made from a smallish
    number of parallel planes.

    If 3D printiing could ever make decent conductors, we might have true
    3D circuits. It might take an AI-scale compute farm to do the
    place-and-route.

    Parts inside?


    John Larkin
    Highland Tech Glen Canyon Design Center
    Lunatic Fringe Electronics
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Phil Hobbs@pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 23:54:07 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com> wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs

    PCBs are now roughly 80 years old. They are stiil made from a smallish
    number of parallel planes.

    If 3D printiing could ever make decent conductors, we might have true
    3D circuits. It might take an AI-scale compute farm to do the place-and-route.

    Parts inside?


    Well, Murata is shipping those DC-DC modules with the toroid core inside
    the board. Folk have been putting ceramic decaps inside PCBs for over 20
    years that I know about.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    (Former member of the packaging research group at IBM Watson)
    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 19:04:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 28 Feb 2026 22:50:57 +0000 (GMT), Theo
    <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
    On 2/27/2026 4:33 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    I disagree. E.g., interlayer bonds seem to be less strong than
    the layers themselves -- suggesting how one could arrange for stresses
    to be distributed in the object. Nylon and PLA are more ductile
    than materials like SLA so expect less "catastrophic" (more plastic)
    deformation.

    I wouldn't want to experiment with a material (or build orientation)
    only to discover these sorts of things would have been obvious on
    initial inspection.

    The problem is that those things depend on a thousand details, which could
    be different between each print.

    For example, the slicer software sets how the path of the print head moves
    to draw the object. Suppose the slicer makes the head push down harder
    into the previous layer - result will be stronger interlayer bonds. Then
    the next version of the software comes out and changes the slicing algorithm >- changing all the properties.

    Then you have the problem that the filament differs from manufacturer to >manufacturer and sometimes batch to batch.

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than
    components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe
    not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very
    attractive.

    It seems most suited to verifying form but likely not for actual
    *use* in a generalized "real product". E.g., imagine printing
    something that the user would fasten to a wall surface -- how
    can you be sure the user won't tighten the fastener just a bit too
    much and crack the part? I imagine this is exacerbated by smaller
    parts where you can't just throw extra "material" into the product.

    There are things you can do with that - eg orient the layers so they're >parallel with the load, rather than perpendicular. Then you are applying >force along the layer rather than between layers. Again that's a function
    of how the part is printed, which is a function of both the software and its >hundreds of settings.

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far
    worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    It's already happening: >https://www.voxelmatters.com/new-ferrari-f80-to-integrate-metal-3d-printed-parts/

    Theo

    Yeah. Being pioneered by the aerospace community, who can afford such
    things. But it's largely research except for simple things. But they
    will get there.

    Military aerospace are the folk that built the equipment to forge the
    F-22 fighter aircraft airframe of titanium.

    Joe
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Don Y@blockedofcourse@foo.invalid to sci.electronics.design on Sat Feb 28 19:18:03 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On 2/28/2026 3:50 PM, Theo wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
    On 2/27/2026 4:33 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    I disagree. E.g., interlayer bonds seem to be less strong than
    the layers themselves -- suggesting how one could arrange for stresses
    to be distributed in the object. Nylon and PLA are more ductile
    than materials like SLA so expect less "catastrophic" (more plastic)
    deformation.

    I wouldn't want to experiment with a material (or build orientation)
    only to discover these sorts of things would have been obvious on
    initial inspection.

    The problem is that those things depend on a thousand details, which could
    be different between each print.

    There HAVE to be some "rules of thumb" otherwise if *a* print didn't meet
    your expectations, you wouldn't know what to tweek to close the gap; you
    could just as easily "spin the dials" and see what turns up for the NEXT instance.

    Admittedly, these may not be known to non-professional printers.
    But, if there is no repeatable science involved, then no one will
    ever quote a job -- beyond making something that LOOKS like <whatever>

    For example, the slicer software sets how the path of the print head moves
    to draw the object. Suppose the slicer makes the head push down harder
    into the previous layer - result will be stronger interlayer bonds. Then
    the next version of the software comes out and changes the slicing algorithm - changing all the properties.

    Then you need the equivalent of Good Manufacturing Practices (from pharma). Controlling the things that have significant impact on your product so
    they can't introduce unexpected changes.

    Then you have the problem that the filament differs from manufacturer to manufacturer and sometimes batch to batch.

    So, you can never make two of the same thing! Sounds like a pretty useless technology!

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than
    components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe
    not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very
    attractive.

    It seems most suited to verifying form but likely not for actual
    *use* in a generalized "real product". E.g., imagine printing
    something that the user would fasten to a wall surface -- how
    can you be sure the user won't tighten the fastener just a bit too
    much and crack the part? I imagine this is exacerbated by smaller
    parts where you can't just throw extra "material" into the product.

    There are things you can do with that - eg orient the layers so they're parallel with the load, rather than perpendicular. Then you are applying force along the layer rather than between layers. Again that's a function
    of how the part is printed, which is a function of both the software and its hundreds of settings.

    And *a* version of a piece of software is infinitely repeatable.
    Presumably, settings are, as well. Ditto for materials.

    As above, if there are NO rules of thumb, then the settings can be
    in bogounits as they don't matter, right?

    SOMEONE understands these things -- even if there are dozens of
    caveats. Otherwise, the technology would just be a toy. I've
    found lots of anecdotes and guidelines for specific materials
    and specific types of constructions. What I was hoping for was
    a systematic reference that brought all of these together so
    comments made about X could be evaluated in the context of
    other comments about Y (if you accumulate anecdotes from a
    variety of sources, then the sources introduce variability in
    the quality of the data compiled)

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far
    worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    It's already happening: https://www.voxelmatters.com/new-ferrari-f80-to-integrate-metal-3d-printed-parts/

    They print *teeth*...

    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From john larkin@jl@glen--canyon.com to sci.electronics.design on Sun Mar 1 08:04:29 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 28 Feb 2026 23:54:07 -0000 (UTC), Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com> wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 11:32:52 -0500, Phil Hobbs
    <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

    On 2026-02-27 11:12, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 03:57:35 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Can anyone recommend a good text that covers the mechanical
    characteristics of 3D printed objects related to the
    *process*, itself? Then, anything additional specific to
    the various printing materials that can be used and how they
    mitigate/amplify these characteristics?

    I'd like ot be able to gauge just how accurately 3D printed
    prototypes would reflect the characteristics of injection
    molded parts -- before paying for their tooling.

    Good luck. The current rule of thumb is that the accuracy of the
    printed item is at best the diameter of the plastic filament that is
    melted and applied. In some cases the surfaces are made smoother by
    melting the surface, this being the equivalent of flame-polishing of
    glass articles.

    Joe


    Resin prints can be pretty good, and the printers are nearly free.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs

    PCBs are now roughly 80 years old. They are stiil made from a smallish
    number of parallel planes.

    If 3D printiing could ever make decent conductors, we might have true
    3D circuits. It might take an AI-scale compute farm to do the
    place-and-route.

    Parts inside?


    Well, Murata is shipping those DC-DC modules with the toroid core inside
    the board. Folk have been putting ceramic decaps inside PCBs for over 20 >years that I know about.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs
    (Former member of the packaging research group at IBM Watson)

    That's a cool part, but it's still a PC board.

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/zda0caovm0xfov772q3yi/AK6IAbHvsBQDnHNElKUgiNA?rlkey=kekvgkmfw9io3tk9uthwfr5rt&dl=0

    It looks complex to make. TI has some IC isolated dc/dc converters
    that look very interesting.




    John Larkin
    Highland Tech Glen Canyon Design Center
    Lunatic Fringe Electronics
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Joe Gwinn@joegwinn@comcast.net to sci.electronics.design on Sun Mar 1 11:28:36 2026
    From Newsgroup: sci.electronics.design

    On Sat, 28 Feb 2026 19:04:58 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
    wrote:

    On 28 Feb 2026 22:50:57 +0000 (GMT), Theo
    <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:

    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
    On 2/27/2026 4:33 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:

    All of these things depend on a thousand details, far too complex for
    a few rules of thumb.

    I disagree. E.g., interlayer bonds seem to be less strong than
    the layers themselves -- suggesting how one could arrange for stresses
    to be distributed in the object. Nylon and PLA are more ductile
    than materials like SLA so expect less "catastrophic" (more plastic)
    deformation.

    I wouldn't want to experiment with a material (or build orientation)
    only to discover these sorts of things would have been obvious on
    initial inspection.

    The problem is that those things depend on a thousand details, which could >>be different between each print.

    For example, the slicer software sets how the path of the print head moves >>to draw the object. Suppose the slicer makes the head push down harder >>into the previous layer - result will be stronger interlayer bonds. Then >>the next version of the software comes out and changes the slicing algorithm >>- changing all the properties.

    Then you have the problem that the filament differs from manufacturer to >>manufacturer and sometimes batch to batch.

    Well, save one rule: 3D printed components are far weaker et al than
    components made by the traditional methods. Maybe this matters, maybe >>> > not.

    For making only a few units of each design, a 3D printer is very
    attractive.

    It seems most suited to verifying form but likely not for actual
    *use* in a generalized "real product". E.g., imagine printing
    something that the user would fasten to a wall surface -- how
    can you be sure the user won't tighten the fastener just a bit too
    much and crack the part? I imagine this is exacerbated by smaller
    parts where you can't just throw extra "material" into the product.

    There are things you can do with that - eg orient the layers so they're >>parallel with the load, rather than perpendicular. Then you are applying >>force along the layer rather than between layers. Again that's a function >>of how the part is printed, which is a function of both the software and its >>hundreds of settings.

    Or, should I just use 3D printing for non-functional *mockups*
    and not rely on them to perform comparably to molded/cast
    parts?

    What people do is to print a prototype and see if it works well
    enough. I have bought a number of such components, which have so far
    worked.

    But it will be a long time before 3D printing can be used for
    automobile suspension components.

    It's already happening: >>https://www.voxelmatters.com/new-ferrari-f80-to-integrate-metal-3d-printed-parts/

    Theo

    Yeah. Being pioneered by the aerospace community, who can afford such >things. But it's largely research except for simple things. But they
    will get there.

    Military aerospace are the folk that built the equipment to forge the
    F-22 fighter aircraft airframe of titanium.

    Joe

    Follow-up: Aviation Week follows 3D printing for manufacture of
    flight hardware. There are 3 articles in the February 23 to March 8
    2026 issue on pages 58-60. Larger libraries carry AvWeek. The
    following URLs are behind a paywall, but give the idea:

    <https://aviationweek.com/defense/budget-policy-operations/pentagon-experiments-3d-printing-drones-front-lines>

    <https://aviationweek.com/aerospace/emerging-technologies/divergent-eyes-3d-printing-robotic-assembly-10000-units>
    Aviation Week is probably the best source for information on the
    leading edge of 3D additive manufacturing.

    Joe
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