• Exercise the Onan

    From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Wed Dec 3 16:57:06 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    My monthly exercise of the Onan generator was due, and I figured I
    better get it done before the deep freeze sets in. I was kind of
    surprised when I went out there, the LED panel showed the house
    batteries very low. It snowed heavily a while back, and though I did
    uncover the solar panel going to the engine battery, not much I can do
    about the roof panels. Not enough juice to even try and start the Onan.
    So I had to put it on shore power for about two hours.

    I've always had a hard time getting that generator to fire up, but I'll
    be darned if it didn't just pop right off today at about 27F! Surprised
    the hell out of me. Turned on everything I could to get a load on it
    and let it run for about 25 minutes.

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple weeks if the
    roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off. Also, jotting it down
    on my list of reasons I need to build a garage for it. ;-)
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Ralph E Lindberg@email@domain.com to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 5 07:38:27 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On 2025-12-03 22:57:06 +0000, sticks said:

    My monthly exercise of the Onan generator was due, and I figured I
    better get it done before the deep freeze sets in. I was kind of
    surprised when I went out there, the LED panel showed the house
    batteries very low. It snowed heavily a while back, and though I did uncover the solar panel going to the engine battery, not much I can do
    about the roof panels. Not enough juice to even try and start the
    Onan. So I had to put it on shore power for about two hours.

    I've always had a hard time getting that generator to fire up, but I'll
    be darned if it didn't just pop right off today at about 27F!
    Surprised the hell out of me. Turned on everything I could to get a
    load on it and let it run for about 25 minutes.

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple weeks if the
    roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off. Also, jotting it down
    on my list of reasons I need to build a garage for it. ;-)

    I put up an RV port over 20 years ago and have never regretted it. Best
    RV thing I've done. RVs are not designed to be in the weather,
    unocuppied or unheated 24/7/365

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 5 16:46:36 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/5/2025 9:38 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
    On 2025-12-03 22:57:06 +0000, sticks said:

    My monthly exercise of the Onan generator was due, and I figured I
    better get it done before the deep freeze sets in.-a I was kind of
    surprised when I went out there, the LED panel showed the house
    batteries very low.-a It snowed heavily a while back, and though I did
    uncover the solar panel going to the engine battery, not much I can do
    about the roof panels.-a Not enough juice to even try and start the
    Onan.-a-a So I had to put it on shore power for about two hours.

    I've always had a hard time getting that generator to fire up, but
    I'll be darned if it didn't just pop right off today at about 27F!
    Surprised the hell out of me.-a Turned on everything I could to get a
    load on it and let it run for about 25 minutes.

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple weeks if the
    roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off.-a Also, jotting it
    down on my list of reasons I need to build a garage for it.-a ;-)

    I put up an RV port over 20 years ago and have never regretted it. Best
    RV thing I've done. RVs are not designed to be in the weather,
    unocuppied or unheated 24/7/365

    I just hate the thought of it sitting out there in the cold, waiting for
    part of an oak tree to fall on it, or get damaged in another hail storm.
    I have always kept my vehicles in a garage and heated it about 15
    years ago. It certainly keeps our vehicles looking better than the
    neighbors who keep them outside, and sure makes it easier to start them
    up on the cold winter days.

    20 years ago I would have just build a place for it myself, but I'm
    afraid those days are over. Of course I can afford to pay someone to do
    it now, so it doesn't hurt as bad. My biggest problem is the location
    of my well. I had tried to get the county to let me place a manhole
    with a sealed access to it and then an elbow to move it about 8 feet for
    the above ground portion of the pipe, but they wouldn't budge and said
    no. If you look at the picture, you can see the well just behind the RV
    and it makes it a little tricky getting in and out. I can't pull
    straight in. If they would have let me move it up the hill, I could
    have built a garage right where it is easily. Sure, I could do a new
    well, but that's over $10K now. I'm hoping to find a solution, and will
    have to do the math on just keeping it in storage somewhere.

    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 5 21:06:40 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/5/2025 9:38 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
    On 2025-12-03 22:57:06 +0000, sticks said:

    My monthly exercise of the Onan generator was due, and I figured I
    better get it done before the deep freeze sets in.|e-a I was kind of
    surprised when I went out there, the LED panel showed the house
    batteries very low.|e-a It snowed heavily a while back, and though I
    did uncover the solar panel going to the engine battery, not much I
    can do about the roof panels.|e-a Not enough juice to even try and
    start the Onan.|e-a|e-a So I had to put it on shore power for about two >>> hours.

    I've always had a hard time getting that generator to fire up, but
    I'll be darned if it didn't just pop right off today at about 27F!
    Surprised the hell out of me.|e-a Turned on everything I could to get
    a load on it and let it run for about 25 minutes.

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple weeks if
    the roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off.|e-a Also,
    jotting it down on my list of reasons I need to build a garage for
    it.|e-a ;-)

    I put up an RV port over 20 years ago and have never regretted it.
    Best RV thing I've done. RVs are not designed to be in the weather,
    unocuppied or unheated 24/7/365

    I just hate the thought of it sitting out there in the cold, waiting
    for part of an oak tree to fall on it, or get damaged in another hail
    storm. -aI have always kept my vehicles in a garage and heated it about
    15 years ago.-a It certainly keeps our vehicles looking better than the neighbors who keep them outside, and sure makes it easier to start
    them up on the cold winter days.

    20 years ago I would have just build a place for it myself, but I'm
    afraid those days are over.-a Of course I can afford to pay someone to
    do it now, so it doesn't hurt as bad.-a My biggest problem is the
    location of my well.-a I had tried to get the county to let me place a manhole with a sealed access to it and then an elbow to move it about
    8 feet for the above ground portion of the pipe, but they wouldn't
    budge and said no.-a If you look at the picture, you can see the well
    just behind the RV and it makes it a little tricky getting in and
    out.-a I can't pull straight in.-a If they would have let me move it up
    the hill, I could have built a garage right where it is easily.-a Sure,
    I could do a new well, but that's over $10K now.-a I'm hoping to find a solution, and will have to do the math on just keeping it in storage somewhere.

    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 5 21:11:07 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/5/2025 8:06 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    ---snip---

    20 years ago I would have just build a place for it myself, but I'm
    afraid those days are over.-a Of course I can afford to pay someone to
    do it now, so it doesn't hurt as bad.-a My biggest problem is the
    location of my well.-a I had tried to get the county to let me place a
    manhole with a sealed access to it and then an elbow to move it about
    8 feet for the above ground portion of the pipe, but they wouldn't
    budge and said no.-a If you look at the picture, you can see the well
    just behind the RV and it makes it a little tricky getting in and
    out.-a I can't pull straight in.-a If they would have let me move it up
    the hill, I could have built a garage right where it is easily.-a Sure,
    I could do a new well, but that's over $10K now.-a I'm hoping to find a
    solution, and will have to do the math on just keeping it in storage
    somewhere.

    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there. The problem is getting
    in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 5 23:18:02 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/5/2025 8:06 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    ---snip---

    20 years ago I would have just build a place for it myself, but I'm
    afraid those days are over.|e-a Of course I can afford to pay someone
    to do it now, so it doesn't hurt as bad.|e-a My biggest problem is
    the location of my well.|e-a I had tried to get the county to let me
    place a manhole with a sealed access to it and then an elbow to
    move it about 8 feet for the above ground portion of the pipe, but
    they wouldn't budge and said no.|e-a If you look at the picture, you
    can see the well just behind the RV and it makes it a little tricky
    getting in and out.|e-a I can't pull straight in.|e-a If they would
    have let me move it up the hill, I could have built a garage right
    where it is easily.|e-a Sure, I could do a new well, but that's over
    $10K now.|e-a I'm hoping to find a solution, and will have to do the
    math on just keeping it in storage somewhere.

    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.-a The problem is
    getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Ted Heise@theise@panix.com to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Sat Dec 6 16:56:22 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On Fri, 5 Dec 2025 16:46:36 -0600,
    sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 9:38 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
    On 2025-12-03 22:57:06 +0000, sticks said:

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple
    weeks if the roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off.
    Also, jotting it down on my list of reasons I need to build a
    garage for it. ;-)

    I put up an RV port over 20 years ago and have never regretted
    it. Best RV thing I've done. RVs are not designed to be in the
    weather, unocuppied or unheated 24/7/365

    I just hate the thought of it sitting out there in the cold,
    waiting for part of an oak tree to fall on it, or get damaged
    in another hail storm. I have always kept my vehicles in a
    garage and heated it about 15 years ago. It certainly keeps
    our vehicles looking better than the neighbors who keep them
    outside, and sure makes it easier to start them up on the cold
    winter days.

    I kept our trailer in an outdoor space at a nearby storage
    facility for the first few months until a space under a roof
    opened up. The rent went from $65 to $95/month, not unreasonable.

    When we moved to Omaha in July I really wanted a house that had a
    garage that could accomodate it. The options that fit our other
    criteria hard third car garage that either had a ceiling that was
    too low, or were not long enough. So I settled for a Public
    Storage space that's behid a bay door. It was $150/month with the
    second month free, so pretty reasonable. They are raising it to
    $200/month soon, and I may be looking for other options. One
    other plus is that there's a 120 V outlet inside so I can power a
    few things in the trailer directly from that.
    --
    Ted Heise <theise@panix.com> Gretna, NE, USA
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Mon Dec 8 16:37:53 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.-a The problem is
    getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean? It's a typical well. This one has over 200'
    of casing in the ground. The actual water pipe come out about 6' under
    the existing ground level and comes in the basement wall at that
    elevation, about 6" off the floor.
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Mon Dec 8 16:40:04 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/6/2025 10:56 AM, Ted Heise wrote:
    On Fri, 5 Dec 2025 16:46:36 -0600,
    sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 9:38 AM, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
    On 2025-12-03 22:57:06 +0000, sticks said:

    I guess I'll have to hook it up to the house every couple
    weeks if the roof solar panels don't get the snow melted off.
    Also, jotting it down on my list of reasons I need to build a
    garage for it. ;-)

    I put up an RV port over 20 years ago and have never regretted
    it. Best RV thing I've done. RVs are not designed to be in the
    weather, unocuppied or unheated 24/7/365

    I just hate the thought of it sitting out there in the cold,
    waiting for part of an oak tree to fall on it, or get damaged
    in another hail storm. I have always kept my vehicles in a
    garage and heated it about 15 years ago. It certainly keeps
    our vehicles looking better than the neighbors who keep them
    outside, and sure makes it easier to start them up on the cold
    winter days.

    I kept our trailer in an outdoor space at a nearby storage
    facility for the first few months until a space under a roof
    opened up. The rent went from $65 to $95/month, not unreasonable.

    When we moved to Omaha in July I really wanted a house that had a
    garage that could accomodate it. The options that fit our other
    criteria hard third car garage that either had a ceiling that was
    too low, or were not long enough. So I settled for a Public
    Storage space that's behid a bay door. It was $150/month with the
    second month free, so pretty reasonable. They are raising it to
    $200/month soon, and I may be looking for other options. One
    other plus is that there's a 120 V outlet inside so I can power a
    few things in the trailer directly from that.

    Just parking them outside is reasonable, but once you try and find a
    place under a roof it get expensive. Probably be $300-$400/month around
    here.
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Mon Dec 8 23:09:04 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.|e-a The problem is
    getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean?-a It's a typical well.-a This one has over
    200' of casing in the ground.-a The actual water pipe come out about 6' under the existing ground level and comes in the basement wall at that elevation, about 6" off the floor.

    Not typical here. Deep wells right around here tend to have the tank
    close to the well, and the water pipe comes up out of the well hole
    and goes to the tank. In your case, how much trouble is it to replace
    the pump when the pipe makes a right angle 6 ft underground? Do they
    have to dig down outside of the casing to disconnect the horizontal
    pipe so they can pull the pump out? Or maybe the horizontal pipe is in
    a casing to the basement, and they can unscrew it from down there My
    brain ain't what it used to be, so maybe I'm missing something obvious?
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Tue Dec 9 08:39:57 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/8/2025 10:09 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.|e-a The problem is
    getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean?-a It's a typical well.-a This one has over
    200' of casing in the ground.-a The actual water pipe come out about 6'
    under the existing ground level and comes in the basement wall at that
    elevation, about 6" off the floor.

    Not typical here. Deep wells right around here tend to have the tank
    close to the well, and the water pipe comes up out of the well hole and
    goes to the tank. In your case, how much trouble is it to replace the
    pump when the pipe makes a right angle 6 ft underground? Do they have to
    dig down outside of the casing to disconnect the horizontal pipe so they
    can pull the pump out? Or maybe the horizontal pipe is in a casing to
    the basement, and they can unscrew it from down there My brain ain't
    what it used to be, so maybe I'm missing something obvious?

    It's done with the help of what is known as a pitless adapter. When the
    well is initially installed this two part piece gets placed and screwed
    onto the casing after drilling a hole for it. The well pipe slides down
    onto this and locks in place. No digging unless the adapter has rotted
    out and needs replacing.

    <https://blueridgepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Pitless-1-300x269.gif> --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Tue Dec 9 16:12:08 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/8/2025 10:09 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.|arCU|e-a The problem >>>>> is getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean?|e-a It's a typical well.|e-a This one has
    over 200' of casing in the ground.|e-a The actual water pipe come out
    about 6' under the existing ground level and comes in the basement
    wall at that elevation, about 6" off the floor.

    Not typical here. Deep wells right around here tend to have the tank
    close to the well, and the water pipe comes up out of the well hole
    and goes to the tank. In your case, how much trouble is it to
    replace the pump when the pipe makes a right angle 6 ft underground?
    Do they have to dig down outside of the casing to disconnect the
    horizontal pipe so they can pull the pump out? Or maybe the
    horizontal pipe is in a casing to the basement, and they can unscrew
    it from down there My brain ain't what it used to be, so maybe I'm
    missing something obvious?

    It's done with the help of what is known as a pitless adapter.-a When
    the well is initially installed this two part piece gets placed and
    screwed onto the casing after drilling a hole for it.-a The well pipe
    slides down onto this and locks in place.-a No digging unless the
    adapter has rotted out and needs replacing.

    <https://blueridgepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Pitless-1-300x269.gif>

    That's interesting. How did they originally get the pipe to your
    basement? A 6-ft deep trench?
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Tue Dec 9 16:34:28 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/9/2025 3:12 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    On 12/8/2025 10:09 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.|arCU|e-a The problem >>>>>> is getting in and out with the well behind the right rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean?|e-a It's a typical well.|e-a This one has over >>>> 200' of casing in the ground.|e-a The actual water pipe come out about >>>> 6' under the existing ground level and comes in the basement wall at
    that elevation, about 6" off the floor.

    Not typical here. Deep wells right around here tend to have the tank
    close to the well, and the water pipe comes up out of the well hole
    and goes to the tank. In your case, how much trouble is it to replace
    the pump when the pipe makes a right angle 6 ft underground? Do they
    have to dig down outside of the casing to disconnect the horizontal
    pipe so they can pull the pump out? Or maybe the horizontal pipe is
    in a casing to the basement, and they can unscrew it from down there
    My brain ain't what it used to be, so maybe I'm missing something
    obvious?

    It's done with the help of what is known as a pitless adapter.-a When
    the well is initially installed this two part piece gets placed and
    screwed onto the casing after drilling a hole for it.-a The well pipe
    slides down onto this and locks in place.-a No digging unless the
    adapter has rotted out and needs replacing.

    <https://blueridgepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/
    Pitless-1-300x269.gif>

    That's interesting. How did they originally get the pipe to your
    basement? A 6-ft deep trench?

    Yes. The first thing they do is drill the well. Once they do that they
    then trench from the well to where they want to go into the house, poke
    a hole in the wall, insert the pipe, seal that all up and go from there
    to connect insert the pitless adapter and connect the pipe. I can take
    a picture of it coming into the house if you'd like?

    Right inside the wall is the pressure control switch. This is the only
    thing I've ever had a problem with on the well. They have what is
    almost like a set of automotive points in there. Mine had carboned over
    and needed a little cleaning with emery cloth to clean them up. Once
    done it was back up and running.
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Tue Dec 9 21:17:03 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/9/2025 3:12 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    On 12/8/2025 10:09 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/5/2025 10:18 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    <https://postimg.cc/3yp7vVYS>

    That looks kinda tight. Can you open that driver door?

    Yes, I can level and extend the slide out there.|a|A|ore4+i|arCU|e-a The
    problem is getting in and out with the well behind the right
    rear wheel.

    That's a strange looking well. What's down there?

    Don't know what you mean?|arCU|e-a It's a typical well.|arCU|e-a This one
    has over 200' of casing in the ground.|arCU|e-a The actual water pipe >>>>> come out about 6' under the existing ground level and comes in
    the basement wall at that elevation, about 6" off the floor.

    Not typical here. Deep wells right around here tend to have the
    tank close to the well, and the water pipe comes up out of the
    well hole and goes to the tank. In your case, how much trouble is
    it to replace the pump when the pipe makes a right angle 6 ft
    underground? Do they have to dig down outside of the casing to
    disconnect the horizontal pipe so they can pull the pump out? Or
    maybe the horizontal pipe is in a casing to the basement, and they
    can unscrew it from down there My brain ain't what it used to be,
    so maybe I'm missing something obvious?

    It's done with the help of what is known as a pitless adapter.|e
    When the well is initially installed this two part piece gets
    placed and screwed onto the casing after drilling a hole for it.|e
    The well pipe slides down onto this and locks in place.|e-a No
    digging unless the adapter has rotted out and needs replacing.

    <https://blueridgepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/
    Pitless-1-300x269.gif>

    That's interesting. How did they originally get the pipe to your
    basement? A 6-ft deep trench?

    Yes.-a The first thing they do is drill the well.-a Once they do that
    they then trench from the well to where they want to go into the
    house, poke a hole in the wall, insert the pipe, seal that all up and
    go from there to connect insert the pitless adapter and connect the
    pipe.-a I can take a picture of it coming into the house if you'd like?

    Yes, when you get the time.

    Is that pipe inside a casing?

    Is it PVC or iron?

    Is the wiring in the casing - if there is a casing - or is it just in
    the ground beside the pipe?

    What kind of tank is in the basement?

    Right inside the wall is the pressure control switch.-a This is the
    only thing I've ever had a problem with on the well.-a They have what
    is almost like a set of automotive points in there.-a Mine had carboned
    over and needed a little cleaning with emery cloth to clean them up.
    Once done it was back up and running.
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Wed Dec 10 09:58:31 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On 12/9/2025 8:17 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    It's done with the help of what is known as a pitless adapter.|e When >>>> the well is initially installed this two part piece gets placed and
    screwed onto the casing after drilling a hole for it.|e The well pipe >>>> slides down onto this and locks in place.|e-a No digging unless the
    adapter has rotted out and needs replacing.

    <https://blueridgepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/
    Pitless-1-300x269.gif>

    That's interesting. How did they originally get the pipe to your
    basement? A 6-ft deep trench?

    Yes.-a The first thing they do is drill the well.-a Once they do that
    they then trench from the well to where they want to go into the
    house, poke a hole in the wall, insert the pipe, seal that all up and
    go from there to connect insert the pitless adapter and connect the
    pipe.-a I can take a picture of it coming into the house if you'd like?

    Yes, when you get the time.

    Is that pipe inside a casing?

    Is it PVC or iron?

    <https://i.postimg.cc/5jtFDp04/Incoming1inch-Pipe.jpg>

    Mine is galvanized and has some kind of wrap on it. I don't know if the
    pipe outside has that wrap or if it is in some type of conduit. I think
    it most likely is just direct buried and the wrap you see in the picture
    is to minimize condensation inside the house.

    I think nowadays, they are using mostly some type of PVC pipe. Though,
    I know some people don't like using pvc on suction lines because of the collapse possibilities of the pipe.

    Is the wiring in the casing - if there is a casing - or is it just in
    the ground beside the pipe?

    <https://i.postimg.cc/HjL7F3xj/Pipe-And-Pressure-Sw-itch.jpg>

    As you can see, they didn't even use the same hole for the electric for
    some reason. Not sure why that is done.

    What kind of tank is in the basement?

    <https://i.postimg.cc/6TQGFz3R/Tank-And-Filter.jpg>

    This shows my pressure tank. They have an air bladder inside that keeps
    the pressure at a level you can adjust by adding or removing air to the bladder. The picture also shows above the tank a whole house filter I
    put in the line. I also put a valve on the left of it at install so I
    can just close the valves before and after the filter to change them
    every 4 months without having to drain the entire line.


    Right inside the wall is the pressure control switch.-a This is the
    only thing I've ever had a problem with on the well.-a They have what
    is almost like a set of automotive points in there.-a Mine had carboned
    over and needed a little cleaning with emery cloth to clean them up.
    Once done it was back up and running.

    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Wed Dec 10 15:44:47 2025
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Thu Dec 11 22:01:11 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/10/2025 10:47 PM, sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 10:27 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 9:58 AM, sticks wrote:

    Those pics were all crap.|e-a Try these if you'd like.

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hmk24rqvivt1lfmbqtnhl/
    Incoming1inchPipe.jpg?rlkey=g0hv6sgwh9x540nlfmky7bu27&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/acfzoo6fj3ea20r0b77bm/
    PipeAndPressureSwitch.jpg?rlkey=yu1d6lr8hzatiz57l7izt4tm3&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yqusagwewrxa6dvxif9jk/Tank-And-
    Filter.jpg?rlkey=8or08o5yteed01oj6dzex5kah&dl=0>

    Why is there a hose clamp on that water pipe?

    I thought it was just to hold the pipe wrap on, but now you got me
    wondering.|e-a I'll have to investigate it some more tomorrow

    I looked closer this morning and I think what you were hinting at is correct.-a The connection nipple is a galvanized part, but the actual
    line is the black pvc pipe.-a The marking on it is too worn down to
    look it up.-a Does seem a little odd to me.-a They must thread the
    nipple onto it, probably with some teflon tape, and then just secure
    it with the clamp.-a It is a pretty solid thick pvc, and they probably
    do it differently these days, but it doesn't leak so I guess it works. <knock on wood>

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Thu Dec 11 21:45:08 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/11/2025 9:01 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    On 12/10/2025 10:47 PM, sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 10:27 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 9:58 AM, sticks wrote:

    Those pics were all crap.|e-a Try these if you'd like.

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hmk24rqvivt1lfmbqtnhl/
    Incoming1inchPipe.jpg?rlkey=g0hv6sgwh9x540nlfmky7bu27&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/acfzoo6fj3ea20r0b77bm/
    PipeAndPressureSwitch.jpg?rlkey=yu1d6lr8hzatiz57l7izt4tm3&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yqusagwewrxa6dvxif9jk/Tank-And-
    Filter.jpg?rlkey=8or08o5yteed01oj6dzex5kah&dl=0>

    Why is there a hose clamp on that water pipe?

    I thought it was just to hold the pipe wrap on, but now you got me
    wondering.|e-a I'll have to investigate it some more tomorrow

    I looked closer this morning and I think what you were hinting at is
    correct.-a The connection nipple is a galvanized part, but the actual
    line is the black pvc pipe.-a The marking on it is too worn down to
    look it up.-a Does seem a little odd to me.-a They must thread the
    nipple onto it, probably with some teflon tape, and then just secure
    it with the clamp.-a It is a pretty solid thick pvc, and they probably
    do it differently these days, but it doesn't leak so I guess it works.
    <knock on wood>

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying. I don't think it's rubber, but some
    kind of pvc pipe. Markings are worn out so I can't look it up. I
    thought it was just a cover, but no it is the actual piping the water
    comes to the house in.
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 12 00:07:26 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:


    On 12/11/2025 9:01 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:


    On 12/10/2025 10:47 PM, sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 10:27 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/10/2025 9:58 AM, sticks wrote:

    Those pics were all crap.|arCU|e-a Try these if you'd like.

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hmk24rqvivt1lfmbqtnhl/
    Incoming1inchPipe.jpg?rlkey=g0hv6sgwh9x540nlfmky7bu27&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/acfzoo6fj3ea20r0b77bm/
    PipeAndPressureSwitch.jpg?rlkey=yu1d6lr8hzatiz57l7izt4tm3&dl=0>

    <https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yqusagwewrxa6dvxif9jk/Tank-And-
    Filter.jpg?rlkey=8or08o5yteed01oj6dzex5kah&dl=0>

    Why is there a hose clamp on that water pipe?

    I thought it was just to hold the pipe wrap on, but now you got me
    wondering.|arCU|e-a I'll have to investigate it some more tomorrow

    I looked closer this morning and I think what you were hinting at
    is correct.|e-a The connection nipple is a galvanized part, but the
    actual line is the black pvc pipe.|e-a The marking on it is too worn
    down to look it up.|e-a Does seem a little odd to me.|e-a They must
    thread the nipple onto it, probably with some teflon tape, and then
    just secure it with the clamp.|e-a It is a pretty solid thick pvc,
    and they probably do it differently these days, but it doesn't leak
    so I guess it works. <knock on wood>

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying.-a I don't think it's rubber, but some
    kind of pvc pipe.-a Markings are worn out so I can't look it up.-a I
    thought it was just a cover, but no it is the actual piping the water
    comes to the house in.

    I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compress PVC - black or
    white - with a hose clamp. I think it's probably HDPE/poly pipe which
    can be compressed over a barbed connector. And the internet says it
    lasts longer underground than PVC. So it's probably going to outlast you.
    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 12 08:00:37 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On 12/11/2025 11:07 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying.-a I don't think it's rubber, but some
    kind of pvc pipe.-a Markings are worn out so I can't look it up.-a I
    thought it was just a cover, but no it is the actual piping the water
    comes to the house in.

    I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compress PVC - black or
    white - with a hose clamp. I think it's probably HDPE/poly pipe which
    can be compressed over a barbed connector. And the internet says it
    lasts longer underground than PVC. So it's probably going to outlast you.

    I think you're probably correct. If I ever talk to a well guy, I'm
    gonna ask why they wouldn't come thru the same hole in the wall with the electric and the piping. If the same pipe is used going down to the
    pump, surely they would tape or zip tie it together in that application?

    You got a good eye for detail Mr. Bill
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Ted Heise@theise@panix.com to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 12 15:39:24 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    On Fri, 12 Dec 2025 08:00:37 -0600,
    sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
    On 12/11/2025 11:07 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I
    can't see anything on the pic that looks like spiraling
    wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying. I don't think it's rubber,
    but some kind of pvc pipe. Markings are worn out so I can't
    look it up. I thought it was just a cover, but no it is the
    actual piping the water comes to the house in.

    I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compress PVC -
    black or white - with a hose clamp. I think it's probably
    HDPE/poly pipe which can be compressed over a barbed
    connector. And the internet says it lasts longer underground
    than PVC. So it's probably going to outlast you.

    I think you're probably correct. If I ever talk to a well guy,
    I'm gonna ask why they wouldn't come thru the same hole in the
    wall with the electric and the piping. If the same pipe is
    used going down to the pump, surely they would tape or zip tie
    it together in that application?

    You got a good eye for detail Mr. Bill

    I'm impressed!
    --
    Ted Heise <theise@panix.com> Gretna, NE, USA
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From bfh@redydog@rye.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 12 12:50:53 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    sticks wrote:
    On 12/11/2025 11:07 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying.|e-a I don't think it's rubber, but
    some kind of pvc pipe.|e-a Markings are worn out so I can't look it
    up.|e-a I thought it was just a cover, but no it is the actual piping
    the water comes to the house in.

    I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compress PVC - black or
    white - with a hose clamp. I think it's probably HDPE/poly pipe
    which can be compressed over a barbed connector. And the internet
    says it lasts longer underground than PVC. So it's probably going to
    outlast you.

    I think you're probably correct.-a If I ever talk to a well guy, I'm
    gonna ask why they wouldn't come thru the same hole in the wall with
    the electric and the piping.-a If the same pipe is used going down to
    the pump, surely they would tape or zip tie it together in that
    application?

    I don't know. I've about worn out my brain trying to visualize what it
    needs to look like below that connection 6 ft underground to make it
    easy to pull the pump out if it becomes necessary.

    You got a good eye for detail Mr. Bill


    --
    bill
    Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to rec.outdoors.rv-travel on Fri Dec 12 16:24:33 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.outdoors.rv-travel



    On 12/12/2025 11:50 AM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:
    On 12/11/2025 11:07 PM, bfh wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    Are you sure that black pipe is not hard rubber hose? I can't see
    anything on the pic that looks like spiraling wrap.

    Yeah, that's what I was saying.|e-a I don't think it's rubber, but
    some kind of pvc pipe.|e-a Markings are worn out so I can't look it
    up.|e-a I thought it was just a cover, but no it is the actual piping >>>> the water comes to the house in.

    I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compress PVC - black or
    white - with a hose clamp. I think it's probably HDPE/poly pipe which
    can be compressed over a barbed connector. And the internet says it
    lasts longer underground than PVC. So it's probably going to outlast
    you.

    I think you're probably correct.-a If I ever talk to a well guy, I'm
    gonna ask why they wouldn't come thru the same hole in the wall with
    the electric and the piping.-a If the same pipe is used going down to
    the pump, surely they would tape or zip tie it together in that
    application?

    I don't know. I've about worn out my brain trying to visualize what it
    needs to look like below that connection 6 ft underground to make it
    easy to pull the pump out if it becomes necessary.

    This video has Farm Boy showing how a pitless adaptor is pulled out.
    Though, I can't quite figure out why had has it turned the way he does.
    I can't figure out where the water comes up and out at.

    <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqdsIxcWrbw>

    This video is better at how wells like mine look. Scroll ahead to the
    7:37 minute and you can see how it goes through the wall. It is a
    little different pitless adaptor. They pull out the same with a 1"
    threaded pipe.

    <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x11l_RuZ5U4>
    --
    Science Doesn't Support Darwin. Scientists Do.

    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2