-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3 point
hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked up) and bent
the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while pressing some bolts
out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace rather than straighten and
I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice . I've replaced the 12 ton jack
it had originally with a 20 ton unit ...
-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . I
can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a couple
of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be well within the limits
of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF .
-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only want
to do this once !
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3 point
hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked up) and
bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while pressing
some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace rather than
straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice . I've
replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . I
can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be well
within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF .
-a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only
want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy. 1144
is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on hand I would use
it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have 1144 and stainless
(304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring to.-a I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they have those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will either tear
the upright construction steel or bend the top cross member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both of my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.-a 3/4 should be fine.
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3 point >>> hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked up) and
bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while pressing
some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace rather than
straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice . I've
replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . I >>> can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF .
-a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only
want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have 1144
and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded than
4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring to.
I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they have
those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both of
my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.-a 3/4
should be fine.
-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The plate/"ram"
the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to order that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as much as the material !
On 1/18/2026 1:27 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3
point hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked
up) and bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while
pressing some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace
rather than straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good
choice . I've replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20
ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . >>>> I can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF . >>>> -a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only
want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have
1144 and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded
than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring to.
I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they have
those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both of >>> my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.-a 3/4
should be fine.
-a-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the
frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The
plate/"ram" the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to order
that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as much as
the material !
60 bucks and free shipping from MSC, but the price & the free shipping
might just be for my commercial account.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn? searchterm=4140+steel+round+rods&refinements=Overall+Diameter%3A0.750-- Length+%28Inch%29%3A72&sortby=price&viewType=list
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3 point >>> hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked up) and
bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while pressing
some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace rather than
straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice . I've
replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . I >>> can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF .
-a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only
want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have 1144
and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded than
4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring to.
I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they have
those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both of
my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.-a 3/4
should be fine.
-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The plate/"ram"
the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to order that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as much as the material !
On 1/18/2026 1:27 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3
point hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked
up) and bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while
pressing some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace
rather than straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice
. I've replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 ton unit
...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . >>>> I can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF . >>>> -a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only
want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have
1144 and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded
than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring to.
I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they have
those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both of >>> my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.-a 3/4
should be fine.
-a-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the
frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The
plate/"ram" the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to order
that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as much as
the material !
Looks like my post for McMaster didn't show up.-a It was 50 bucks and 40 bucks shipping at Mcmaster Carr.
On 1/18/2026 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/18/2026 1:27 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3
point hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked
up) and bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while
pressing some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace
rather than straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good choice >>>>> . I've replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 ton
unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . >>>>> I can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF . >>>>> -a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only >>>>> want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have
1144 and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded >>>> than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring
to. I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they
have those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both
of my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.
3/4 should be fine.
-a-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the
frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The
plate/"ram" the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to
order that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as
much as the material !
Looks like my post for McMaster didn't show up.-a It was 50 bucks and
40 bucks shipping at Mcmaster Carr.
-a This is for a piece 6 feet long , that 63 bucks was before they added sales tax . which brought the total to 70 bucks . I'll probably order a piece of hex stock to make new nuts , depends on how they look when I
get it disassembled .
On 1/18/2026 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/18/2026 1:27 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3
point hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked
up) and bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while
pressing some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace
rather than straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good
choice . I've replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20
ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made of . >>>>> I can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to have a
couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the max
tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should be
well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point cut NF . >>>>> -a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only >>>>> want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy.
1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on
hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have
1144 and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion) welded >>>> than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring
to. I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they
have those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both
of my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.
3/4 should be fine.
-a-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the
frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The
plate/"ram" the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to
order that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as
much as the material !
Looks like my post for McMaster didn't show up.-a It was 50 bucks and
40 bucks shipping at Mcmaster Carr.
-a This is for a piece 6 feet long , that 63 bucks was before they added sales tax . which brought the total to 70 bucks . I'll probably order a piece of hex stock to make new nuts , depends on how they look when I
get it disassembled .
On 1/18/2026 10:21 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/18/2026 1:27 PM, Snag wrote:
On 1/18/2026 11:08 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 1/17/2026 7:14 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a I was installing some turnbuckle/chain sway control on the 3 >>>>>> point hitch on my "new" tractor , and I was inattentive (I fucked >>>>>> up) and bent the tension rods on my HF hydraulic jack press while >>>>>> pressing some bolts out of the lower lift arms. I want to replace >>>>>> rather than straighten and I'm thinking 4140 might be a good
choice . I've replaced the 12 ton jack it had originally with a 20 >>>>>> ton unit ...
-a-a The original rods are 3/4" , I don't know what they're made
of . I can get enough 4140 in 3/4" for a not-outrageous price to
have a couple of feet left over for future projects . I figure the >>>>>> max tension load on each will be around 20,000 pounds which should >>>>>> be well within the limits of 4140 . Threads will be single point
cut NF .
-a-a Unless someone can recommend a better alloy for this ... I only >>>>>> want to do this once !
4140 should be as good as you can get in a relatively common alloy. >>>>> 1144 is also very strong, much more easily machined, but not as
weldable (hot short), and not as rust resistant.-a If I had 4140 on >>>>> hand I would use it, but for alloy steel my local yards only have
1144 and stainless (304).-a 304 is more easily (in my opinion)
welded than 4140.
First off.-a I don't know what high tension rods you are referring
to. I have jack style 12 and 20 ton presses.-a I don't think they
have those. Which leads us into the next part.
The cross pins that support the table on the press can support the
full force of the hydraulic.-a I can tell you first hand you will
either tear the upright construction steel or bend the top cross
member before those fail.-a I've done both.-a The cross pins on both >>>>> of my 20 ton presses are about 0.780in.-a Not much more than 3/4.
3/4 should be fine.
-a-a-a The rods I'm talking about go from the top cross member of the >>>> frame to the cross member that the top of the jack pushes on . The
plate/"ram" the jack sits on slides on those rods . I'm going to
order that 4140 , 6 feet for 63 bucks delivered . Shipping costs as
much as the material !
Looks like my post for McMaster didn't show up.-a It was 50 bucks and
40 bucks shipping at Mcmaster Carr.
-a-a This is for a piece 6 feet long , that 63 bucks was before they
added sales tax . which brought the total to 70 bucks . I'll probably
order a piece of hex stock to make new nuts , depends on how they look
when I get it disassembled .
-a Actually , I have a piece of 4140 round stock that I can use to make
the nuts . I can make them either hex or square and larger outside
dimension than the originals . I've already beefed up the top cross bar
on the frame , I'll probably replace the cross bar the jack pushes on
with some heavier wall stock I have on hand ...
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10kll6q$sq3g$1@dont-email.me...
I'm pretty functional, often making square drives that will fit a
particular 12 point wrench or socket, but there is certainly an elegant
look to a well made hex with a nice chamfer.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
A hex head fitted fairly closely to a 6 point socket holds up better
than alternatives when cut from mild steel. Most of my sawmill has 9/16"
hex heads on 3/8" bolts or milled into the ends of the 3/4"-10 track and
log leveling screws. I keep a disassembled T handle drive and a gear
wrench in my pocket for them, as there are only a few safe flat spots
around the work area to leave things and whatever falls is lost in sawdust.
The log leveling adjusters in particular are turned often while heavily loaded to fine tune for log taper. Unlike small commercial bandsaw mills with attached toeboards the log supports are separate from and log
weight doesn't deflect the track the saw head rolls on. Mine can be set
up level or gravity assisted on uneven sloping ground.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10kll6q$sq3g$1@dont-email.me...
I'm pretty functional, often making square drives that will fit a
particular 12 point wrench or socket, but there is certainly an elegant
look to a well made hex with a nice chamfer.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
A hex head fitted fairly closely to a 6 point socket holds up better than alternatives when cut from mild steel.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10kokgj$11d6g$1@dont-email.me...
On 1/20/2026 5:48 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10kll6q$sq3g$1@dont-email.me...
I'm pretty functional, often making square drives that will fit a
particular 12 point wrench or socket, but there is certainly an elegant
look to a well made hex with a nice chamfer.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
A hex head fitted fairly closely to a 6 point socket holds up better
than alternatives when cut from mild steel.
I am aware, but a square drive is faster and easier to machine for often single use tools.-a A year ago I made a brake caliper tool with two pins
and a square drive for my son's Malibu.-a You have to turn the caliper
back in when installing new rotors and pads.-a He parked it a couple
months ago and will be getting rid of it.-a I won't even remember what
that tool is for a few years from now.-a Okay, I'll probably remember,
but it only got used once, and with the ever growing web of self repair denial in the industry (all industries) its unlikely it will ever get
used again.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------
The quick fix is two or more axial drill holes in one end located by eye
for an HF adjustable pin spanner wrench. Cross-drilling for a rod is
quick if the center can be blocked. Neither can stand as much torque as flats. The best high torque driver I've found for a square is a large
pipe tap wrench which balances the forces. Two bars or square tubes with
the ends overlapped and joined by bolts can work well too, as long as
the bolt holes don't weaken it much.
The two bars can also be recessed with the two halves of a hex, with opposing points on the parting line. There is just enough clearance
above to mill the angled faces with an end mill. Instead of a complex
and hard to measure layout I cut a square notch the width and depth for
one hex flat and milled the angled faces to meet it in the corners. It
was done when the two bars would close tight on the hex. I made it to
break loose and reshape distorted 3/8" brake line flare nuts, it works
on 7/16" as well.
Usually such tools are small enough for my sample kit so after using
them I clean them up neatly enough to show to engineers.
A couple of years ago we used a disk parking brake screw retractor in
auto shop night school. The students wanting to learn maintenance all
drove older cars.
| Sysop: | Amessyroom |
|---|---|
| Location: | Fayetteville, NC |
| Users: | 59 |
| Nodes: | 6 (0 / 6) |
| Uptime: | 22:37:12 |
| Calls: | 810 |
| Calls today: | 1 |
| Files: | 1,287 |
| D/L today: |
12 files (21,036K bytes) |
| Messages: | 195,759 |