Yeah I'm talking to me too.
I took almost two weeks off from customer jobs around the holidays.-a At first because I wasn't feeling tip top, and then I decided I was just
going to work on things I wanted to work on.-a I started working on most
of them, and accomplished none of them.-a There kept being some little
thing I needed.-a At one point I was just going to throw the front seat pedestal in my bass boat and go fishing, but the bolts I ordered were to short.-a Sigh!.-a Pretty sad when I can't even accomplish going fishing.
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks.-a Make me
feel bad.-a LOL.
Today I made a mold for a customer, but that doesn't really count.-a I do that everyday.
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10jv85g$3lmjs$1@dont-email.me...
...-a In other news , I'm working on some parts for a sawmill . It uses hydraulics and the design of the control lever pivot mounts is weak .
I'm modifying the new pivot mounts to make them stronger .
Snag
-----------------------
What are you using for the wheels? They were the critical components of mine, the only parts I couldn't make. Motorcycle wheels and tires worked pretty well for me except that they aren't load rated for nearly the recommended blade tension, which keeps the blade straight in wide cuts.
24" diameter is large enough to avoid the gullet cracking my previous
10" wheel sawmill suffered with 3/4" wide coarse blades. These are
1-1/4" wide, 3/4" pitch as Timberwolf suggested. They can be lightly sharpened a few times with a guided file without complaints from the regrinding service.
What are you using for the wheels? They were the critical components of mine, the only parts I couldn't make. Motorcycle wheels and tires worked pretty well for me except that they aren't load rated for nearly the recommended blade tension, which keeps the blade straight in wide cuts.
24" diameter is large enough to avoid the gullet cracking my previous
10" wheel sawmill suffered with 3/4" wide coarse blades. These are
1-1/4" wide, 3/4" pitch as Timberwolf suggested. They can be lightly sharpened a few times with a guided file without complaints from the regrinding service.
"Snag" wrote in message news:10jv85g$3lmjs$1@dont-email.me...This is a commercial sawmill operation ... I don't know if it's a
... In other news , I'm working on some parts for a sawmill . It uses hydraulics and the design of the control lever pivot mounts is weak .
I'm modifying the new pivot mounts to make them stronger .
Snag
-----------------------
I'd try to find them a froe to split shingles but haven't seen one
for sale and my attempt to forge one from a leaf spring didn't come out well >enough.
What are you using for the wheels? They were the critical components of mine, the only parts I couldn't make. Motorcycle wheels and tires worked pretty well for me except that they aren't load rated for nearly the recommended blade tension, which keeps the blade straight in wide cuts.
24" diameter is large enough to avoid the gullet cracking my previous 10" wheel sawmill suffered with 3/4" wide coarse blades. These are 1-1/4"
wide, 3/4" pitch as Timberwolf suggested. They can be lightly sharpened a few times with a guided file without complaints from the regrinding
service.
I'd try to find them a froe to split shingles but haven't seen one
for sale and my attempt to forge one from a leaf spring didn't come out
well
enough.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2026 13:02:00 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
I'd try to find them a froe to split shingles but haven't seen one
for sale and my attempt to forge one from a leaf spring didn't come out well >> enough.
I repaired, welded an original (antique) froe up for a neighbor that had abused one a bit. Cracked the loop for the handle and cracked spots in
the blade...
To make a modern version I figured a flat mower blade would
be a good start and just weld a split piece of pipe on the end for a
handle loop. Split the pipe, crush one ended a bit to form a slight
taper. Angle grinder to shape the cutting portion of blade...
You can still buy new and used ones on ebay...
On 1/10/2026 5:32 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Yeah I'm talking to me too.
I took almost two weeks off from customer jobs around the holidays.a At
first because I wasn't feeling tip top, and then I decided I was just
going to work on things I wanted to work on.a I started working on most
of them, and accomplished none of them.a There kept being some little
thing I needed.a At one point I was just going to throw the front seat
pedestal in my bass boat and go fishing, but the bolts I ordered were to
short.a Sigh!.a Pretty sad when I can't even accomplish going fishing.
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks.a Make me
feel bad.a LOL.
Today I made a mold for a customer, but that doesn't really count.a I do
that everyday.
Last Wednesday I picked up a load of treated lumber . Yesterday and
today I used that lumber to build a new front porch - I already had the
roof built - on our house . The original started life as a hallway from
the camper to the new living room when I started construction of the
house , and it was in pretty sad condition . I still have a couple of
deck boards to fit and install , and I'll be building railings along 2
sides and a short section on a third .
In other news , I'm working on some parts for a sawmill . It uses
hydraulics and the design of the control lever pivot mounts is weak .
I'm modifying the new pivot mounts to make them stronger .
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10juniu$3hi7e$1@dont-email.me...
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks. Make me
feel bad. LOL.
------------------------------------
I'm taking a 3D CAD class in night school. I'm fine with orthographic and >isometric drafting and mental visualization but the menu logic is difficult, >like learning new thought patterns of a foreign language.
I'm taking a 3D CAD class in night school. I'm fine with orthographic and >isometric drafting and mental visualization but the menu logic is
difficult,
like learning new thought patterns of a foreign language.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10k0mg0$2k4a$1@dont-email.me...
On 1/11/2026 7:48 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
What are you using for the wheels? They were the critical components
of mine, the only parts I couldn't make. Motorcycle wheels and tires
worked pretty well for me except that they aren't load rated for
nearly the recommended blade tension, which keeps the blade straight
in wide cuts. 24" diameter is large enough to avoid the gullet
cracking my previous 10" wheel sawmill suffered with 3/4" wide coarse
blades. These are 1-1/4" wide, 3/4" pitch as Timberwolf suggested.
They can be lightly sharpened a few times with a guided file without
complaints from the regrinding service.
I would think ring rolling flat bar, and welding in spokes would be an answer.-a Note: that meat saws, and horizontal band saws do not use a
tire.-a Instead they use an all metal wheel with a lip, and they
typically only use one width of blade.
Turning a 24" wheel concentric might not be so practical unless you have
a really large lathe or a modestly large lathe with a gap bed.-a There
are ways to get "pretty close" on a mill though.-a Mounted to a rotary
table offset to one side you can skim a wheel round.-a Concentricity is a
bit more involved, but if you can center the bore on the rotab maybe not
so much.-a A close fit stub in the bore of the rotab if you don't have a
mill with 12+ inches of column clearance.-a It sounds ridiculous at
first, but a 24 inch wheel needs to only have a little over 12 inches
offset from the spindle and the same clearance to the column.-a Depending
on the setup your rotab bore doesn't even have to be within the envelope
of the machine.
You know how to balance a wheel I am sure.-a Just drill out or add
material until doesn't stop at any particular point when setup on on a
simple axle, or on an axle across a couple "parallels."-a However, is it spinning fast enough that balance is even really an issue?-a I haven't
seen any signs of balancing on any of my smaller bandsaws.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------
I sufficiently restored a second SB Heavy 10 headstock that could be
mounted on a heavy wood beam frame with an X-Y table for the tool rest
as a large wheel lathe. I bought an HF linked belt to drive it through
the flat cone pulley and back gears, and a variable speed DC motor. The bigger problem is making the rim strong enough to hold a safe multiple
of 1500 Lbs. Usually the rubber rim is a row of vee belts which require fairly deep turned grooves.
The saw needs some welding repair from the last session, it wasn't built much stronger than necessary for the original 5.5HP design and modifying
it for larger logs and higher blade tension cut into the margin.
I removed the drive wheel tire to smooth a rim corrosion leak and it's
now noticeably out of balance when running at some speeds, fortunately
not the cutting speed. The 3" channel uprights that support the saw head can't have cross bracing except at the top end and are somewhat wobbly.
They were weakened by notches nearer one end and cost me only $5 per 8' length so I can't complain too hard. The shorter cutoffs became their
bases.
A t-joint wheel is going to be quite rigid.-a Cut a round ring for the bottom leg of the T.-a Ring roll the blade surface of the wheel.-a Add spokes from your ring to your hub.
A t-joint wheel is going to be quite rigid. Cut a round ring for the
bottom leg of the T. Ring roll the blade surface of the wheel. Add
spokes from your ring to your hub.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10k62st$6jli$1@dont-email.me...
A t-joint wheel is going to be quite rigid.-a Cut a round ring for the
bottom leg of the T.-a Ring roll the blade surface of the wheel.-a Add
spokes from your ring to your hub.
When I mentioned turning the ring I was not implying a huge amount of material removal.-a Just enough to make the surface acceptable and
concentric with the hub bore.-a You should take the effort to get "pretty close" in fabrication so that is all you need to do.-a If you have enough material you "could" turn a slight crown, but I don't think other lipped wheels have a crown.-a They are just adjusted so the blade runs true
without it.-a Balance can be achieved by drilling holes in the spokes.-a I
am thinking flat bar for spokes.-a Of course adjust as your own mind
works on such problems.
Bob La Londe
----------------------
I examined commercial bandsaw mills and talked to the blade maker's tech support and didn't deviate much from their practice beyond using the available wheels because the bandsaws have a reputation for being
difficult to adjust and maintain for straight flat cuts, many details
have to be right. My 4x6 metal bandsaw needs frequent checking and adjustment to cut square.
https://www.reddit.com/r/redneckengineering/comments/juujbe/homemade_bandsaw_mill_from_old_car_wheels/
Mine has a guard enclosing the blade.
The only real issue with my saw as it is now is keeping the blade sharp enough to cut 20" wide without excess feed pressure that makes the blade bow, I think when tension all shifts to the back edge from deflection in
the cut and leaves the tooth edge free to twist up or down.
I made a filing guide that supports the file on outboard rollers and
adjusts for angle and depth of cut. Two or three rounds of tip filing between regrinds suffice for at least one big oak log and appear
acceptable to the sharpening service.
Deflection is much less of a problem after slicing off full width planks
so I can extend blade life by swapping in partly used ones to match the
cut width. They breeze through 6" or less after considerable use. If I changed from road tires to steel wheels for higher blade tension many
other parts of the saw would have to be upgraded, notably the tensioner screw which I needed to change from all-thread rod to a fully threaded 1/2-20 Grade 8 bolt and captive Grade 8 nut to survive the current 1000
Lbs. I mentioned all this because I thought Snag might be designing his
own.
"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message >news:8qpcmkpejr38lc9pp5jts8chkfh09voc6c@4ax.com...
On Mon, 12 Jan 2026 22:31:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm taking a 3D CAD class in night school. I'm fine with orthographic and >>isometric drafting and mental visualization but the menu logic is >>difficult,
like learning new thought patterns of a foreign language.
I had this problem at first as well.
3D CAD is organized in how-to-make process order, using the primitives >available. Example: Start with a block of material. Subtract a
cylinder of material, to yield a cylindrical hole in the block. And
so on.
Joe
------------------
Possibly the issue is that my right brain processes the graphic images and >my left brain the menu tree, and I have always had difficulty fully using >both at once or quickly swapping. I can become so involved in solving a >difficult problem that if interrupted I can't immediately talk. My postings >here are practice to overcome that, but when I write coherently I can't >visualize at my best. Fortunately on IQ tests the verbal and spatial >sections are separate and I can take a moment to switch, but when >brainstorming engineering problems I have to immediately explain my ideas.
Possibly the issue is that my right brain processes the graphic images and
my left brain the menu tree, and I have always had difficulty fully using >both at once or quickly swapping. ...
Yeah I'm talking to me too.
I took almost two weeks off from customer jobs around the holidays.
At first because I wasn't feeling tip top, and then I decided I was
just going to work on things I wanted to work on. I started working
on most of them, and accomplished none of them. There kept being some
little thing I needed. At one point I was just going to throw the
front seat pedestal in my bass boat and go fishing, but the bolts I
ordered were to short. Sigh!. Pretty sad when I can't even
accomplish going fishing.
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks. Make me
feel bad. LOL.
Today I made a mold for a customer, but that doesn't really count. I
do that everyday.
Yeah I'm talking to me too.
I took almost two weeks off from customer jobs around the holidays.
At first because I wasn't feeling tip top, and then I decided I was
...
on most of them, and accomplished none of them. There kept being some
little thing I needed. At one point I was just going to throw the
front seat pedestal in my bass boat and go fishing, but the bolts I
ordered were to short. Sigh!. Pretty sad when I can't even
accomplish going fishing.
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks. Make me
feel bad. LOL.
...
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
Yeah I'm talking to me too.
I took almost two weeks off from customer jobs around the holidays.
At first because I wasn't feeling tip top, and then I decided I was
...
on most of them, and accomplished none of them. There kept being some
little thing I needed. At one point I was just going to throw the
front seat pedestal in my bass boat and go fishing, but the bolts I
ordered were to short. Sigh!. Pretty sad when I can't even
accomplish going fishing.
Show me how productive you have been for the last few weeks. Make me
feel bad. LOL.
...
Comment 2
Your government, "the beltway", "the Versailles on the Potomac", is good
at
making a mess
the size of a Shakesperian tragedy, of everything it touches at the
moment - does that count?! :-)
Look - I do see that the one president is inheriting a vast "kicking the
can down the road" mess. I won't decree absolution ;-) - but I do see
an impossible situation to resolve.
I have this winter watched videos of American mining enthusiasts going
out into the wilderness finding gold and other resources. Bright, experienced and practically skilled. Only enough findings to hopefully
cover costs and maybe make a few bucks on-top, but my goodness they are
alive and that is where hope for America resides - that spirit.
Best wishes
"Jim Wilkins"-a wrote in message news:10kl5sl$a3tf$1@dont-email.me...
The small local sources for hobby
metalworking and even woodworking tools and supplies have largely vanished since the 1980's.
----------------------------
A few decades ago an old lathe like this for $800 would list for at
least $2500 without the valuable accessories.
New ones cost $12,000. https://westernmass.craigslist.org/tls/d/greenfield-10-southbend-lathe- norton/7906339282.html
$1000 for a surface grinder seems typical. They aren't very useful at
the hobby level unless you make precision lab experiments or sharpen
your own cutting tools. I did both.
| Sysop: | Amessyroom |
|---|---|
| Location: | Fayetteville, NC |
| Users: | 59 |
| Nodes: | 6 (1 / 5) |
| Uptime: | 16:24:58 |
| Calls: | 810 |
| Calls today: | 1 |
| Files: | 1,287 |
| D/L today: |
10 files (21,017K bytes) |
| Messages: | 193,384 |