-a My $30 yard sale bottom pour lead pot drips . A lot . I've cleaned up the stopper rod with no noticeable slowing . The bottom of the hole has
some crusty rust That I haven't been successful at removing . I see 2 options - try to match the taper of the bottom of the hole (drill bit
isn't the same) with a dowel and lap it clean or try using Evaporust to clean it up .
-a If anybody has other options I'd like to hear 'em . I'd really like
to use this over the dipper and pot , I've started casting balls and
bullets for some of my neighbors and this is faster and less spillage .
On 10/25/2025 6:12 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a My $30 yard sale bottom pour lead pot drips . A lot . I've cleaned
up the stopper rod with no noticeable slowing . The bottom of the hole
has some crusty rust That I haven't been successful at removing . I
see 2 options - try to match the taper of the bottom of the hole
(drill bit isn't the same) with a dowel and lap it clean or try using
Evaporust to clean it up .
-a-a If anybody has other options I'd like to hear 'em . I'd really like
to use this over the dipper and pot , I've started casting balls and
bullets for some of my neighbors and this is faster and less spillage .
Buy more molds and go so fast it doesn't matter?
There are a lot of people that just put a catch pan under the spout. Its
a never ending battle.
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10djshq$6v3d$1@dont-email.me...
-a My $30 yard sale bottom pour lead pot drips . A lot . I've cleaned up
the stopper rod with no noticeable slowing . The bottom of the hole has
some crusty rust That I haven't been successful at removing . I see 2
options - try to match the taper of the bottom of the hole (drill bit
isn't the same) with a dowel and lap it clean or try using Evaporust to
clean it up .
-a If anybody has other options I'd like to hear 'em . I'd really like
to use this over the dipper and pot , I've started casting balls and
bullets for some of my neighbors and this is faster and less spillage .
Snag
----------------------------------------------
Hydrochloric / Muriatic / pool cleaning acid dissolves non-oily rust
very quickly, vinegar, Naval Jelly or battery acid more slowly. Baking
or washing soda will stop the action when you see bare metal.
The stopper could have a similar or the same taper as the hole, perhaps
you could copy it to a D bit? One way is to chuck it on the lathe and
match the compound to the taper angle. For a tapered recess I molded it
in polymer clay, baked it hard and measured the angle, then turned and hardened a D bit to match.
I mentioned using a bronze gun bore brush to reduce bolt thread rust
through a hole in the car frame because it worked better than I
expected. I haven't found a source of small straight fine wire bristled brushes to customize and clean rusty recesses, it was the closest.
Another that helped on my 91 truck's electrical contacts was pipe
cleaners with stiffer bristles, Dill's -Bristle- Premium Pipe Cleaners
in a red sleeve.
"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10dlq3u$6se4$1@dont-email.me...
I'll have to go look, but I thought the stopper on the Lee bottom pour
pt had a ball nose plunger and tapered cone nozzle. -----------------------------
Will a chainsaw file fit through the hole?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10dlq3u$6se4$1@dont-email.me...
I'll have to go look, but I thought the stopper on the Lee bottom pour pt had a ball nose plunger and tapered cone nozzle. -----------------------------
Will a chainsaw file fit through the hole?
Will a chainsaw file fit through the hole?
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10dlugu$8b2f$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/26/2025 1:48 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Will a chainsaw file fit through the hole?
-a-a The top half of the hole yes . The actual nozzle where the lead
comes out no . Won't quite pass a 6d box nail .
-------------------------
I assumed you wouldn't have a set of jewelers' needle files or rifflers,
the chainsaw file is similar and common.
Maybe you could chisel out the crud with a pin punch ground flat with
sharp edges, which doesn't ruin it as a punch. A broken tap with the end ground at an angle and held in the pin vise might work as a gouge
chisel. The half-round shape is useful enough to be commercially produced. https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-10502MAY-4-Inch-Round-Chisel/dp/B0015S8S00?
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10dmhte$dpuf$1@dont-email.me...
-a Actually I have 2 sets of needle files , 3 if you include the diamond grit set . This is a hole just under .375 diameter , at the bottom it
necks down (like a shouldered cartridge inside) to less than an eighth .
If I can match that shoulder angle I can clean it up . If it's pitted
I'll have to use your d-bit option - but I gotta figure out the angle
first because I don't know how much meat there is and I don't want to
cut too much and ruin the unit . It's not really a high priority task
but I just can't resist a challenge .
but I gotta figure out the angle first because I don't know how much
meat there is and I don't want to cut too much and ruin the unit .
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10dmhte$dpuf$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a Actually I have 2 sets of needle files , 3 if you include the diamond >> grit set . This is a hole just under .375 diameter , at the bottom it
necks down (like a shouldered cartridge inside) to less than an eighth .
If I can match that shoulder angle I can clean it up . If it's pitted
I'll have to use your d-bit option - but I gotta figure out the angle
first because I don't know how much meat there is and I don't want to
cut too much and ruin the unit . It's not really a high priority task
but I just can't resist a challenge .
The derusting helped a lot . I was able to remove most of the crusty
rust and clean up the seat . Got it down to a drip every 5-10 seconds
which is good enough for me . Setting the rod in the hole and tapping on
it with a light hammed also helped a lot .
On 10/26/2025 6:29 PM, Snag wrote:
but I gotta figure out the angle first because I don't know how much
meat there is and I don't want to cut too much and ruin the unit .
Lee has parts available for these I am pretty sure.-a I replaced the
control and heating coil on mine some time back.
Yes they do fail.-a If you think about what it is with a much lower production number than a cooking appliance, they are pretty cheap
devices.-a I used to be a Lee dealer some years back, but I decided I
only wanted to sell my own products.-a Sorry, I sold all my inventory a
long time ago.
Scheels may have the lowest retail price on them today.-a You can get
parts direct from Lee.
There is nothing complicated about them.
On 10/27/2025 11:21 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/26/2025 6:29 PM, Snag wrote:
but I gotta figure out the angle first because I don't know how much
meat there is and I don't want to cut too much and ruin the unit .
Lee has parts available for these I am pretty sure.-a I replaced the
control and heating coil on mine some time back.
Yes they do fail.-a If you think about what it is with a much lower
production number than a cooking appliance, they are pretty cheap
devices.-a I used to be a Lee dealer some years back, but I decided I
only wanted to sell my own products.-a Sorry, I sold all my inventory a
long time ago.
Scheels may have the lowest retail price on them today.-a You can get
parts direct from Lee.
There is nothing complicated about them.
-a It's a Lyman . And it's old enough that the base is cast iron instead
of stamped sheet metal . I need to get the plug and socket for the cord cleaned up , I noticed today it's getting hot and that means a high resistance connection .
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