From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

Well as much as I would have liked to build one I bought one instead.
Its compact, doesn't have to be mounted to work, its cheap, its compact
for storage, and it has a long history of DIYers using it on The Tube of
U. Even the DIYers who state some other benders are superior do
acknowledge it works within its claimed range.

Which brings us to the first of its two major drawbacks.

1. It only bends a little more than 90 degrees. I think I recall some
users saying that it will bend up to 110 degrees if you reposition the
tube once after the first bend. This is a real drawback, because there
are a couple things I'd like to make that would look better with 180
degree bend instead of a welded joint, but my welding is getting better,
and I do own an angle grinder or two.

2. The other drawback is its dead slow. It uses a manual 8 ton
hydraulic jack to operate. One of the most popular upgrades is to swap
out the 8 ton manual jack for a 12 ton air over hydraulic jack. Its a
finicky upgrade, and older models (I ordered a newer model) need the
frame cut and welded to fit. That's a definite upgrade, and if I can
get the unit fixed on on my 12 ton press I'll use that jack. I finally swapped over to an air over jack on my 20 ton press, and I doubt the 12
ton will ever get used again. If for some reason its the best tool for
the job or I need to setup multiple presses I still have the original 12
ton manual jack.

I really can't beat the price. Its $399 (01/23/2026) and includes one standard bending die of choice. Of course I bought the option that
comes with five (5) bending dies.

There is still one problem, but its self imposed, and its part of why I
chose to buy one at this time. The kids (young men and women) on the
BAJA SAE engineering team are having issues with a bender they were
loaned by a local fabrication shop. The die size they need didn't come
with it, and a die to fit that bender costs the same or more than this
whole machine. The problem. This manufacturer doesn't make exactly the
right size die. It comes with a die the right size for the tube, but
the kids did their work around a 6 inch bending radius, and the die that
comes with the machine comes with a 5 inch bending radius. There is
about 20% higher strain when bending to 5 inch radius. I invited them
over to spend an afternoon making a die just right for their application.

There are guys who have made limited production plastic dies using 3D
printed parts sandwiched between steel plates. I am 100% sure I can
make aluminum "cores" to sandwich between steel plates to do the same
job much stronger in a fraction of the time of 3D printing. 6061 would probably last well enough for atleast a few dozen bends, and 7075 would probably last long enough for hundreds if not thousands of bends. I
have both on the shelf, but the 7075 WAS planned for "other" projects.

I also have some A356 I could cast, but I think making a pattern would
take quite a bit longer than just machining a finished part from wrought/extruded bar or plate.

If you scrolled through all of that just wanting to know what the heck I ordered, I ordered the Affordable Bender with 5 bending dies.

https://www.yumabassman.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/02/Affordable-Bender.webp

https://www.yumabassman.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/02/Affordable-Bender-Jack.webp
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10nieak$1cc0q$1@dont-email.me...

There are guys who have made limited production plastic dies using 3D
printed parts sandwiched between steel plates. I am 100% sure I can
make aluminum "cores" to sandwich between steel plates to do the same
job much stronger in a fraction of the time of 3D printing. 6061 would probably last well enough for atleast a few dozen bends, and 7075 would probably last long enough for hundreds if not thousands of bends. I
have both on the shelf, but the 7075 WAS planned for "other" projects. ------------------------------------

I tested the compression strength of oak to 2000 PSI the weaker way when designing joist hangers. At 2000 compression was becoming slightly
noticeable as a step at the edge. 2000# is the steel hanger rating, the expected load is around 500. The end grain is hard enough to make a decent shapeable anvil for hammering sheet steel. Around here pallets are made
mostly from red oak of lower than lumber grade.

I made custom (steel) bender dies, I think by rotating the blank against a
fly cutter set to the tube diameter. I cut wooden wedges by angling the
fence on my 4x6 horizontal bandsaw and using a 6/10 blade. For a bending die the wedge angle needn't be exact, you could glue up two oversized halves and saw across the diameters.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:10njca3$3jr03$2@dont-email.me...

I made custom (steel) bender dies, I think by rotating the blank against a
fly cutter set to the tube diameter.
----------------------
No, that die was cut with an end mill to fit 1/2" OD tubing. An endmill cuts faster, a fly cutter or boring head could make the light finish cut. I mill with the end instead of the side flutes so I can regrind it without changing the diameter.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10nkvif$1g3b1$1@dont-email.me...

Oak isn't a bad idea, but I'd have to go get some. I have lots of
aluminum. As an alternative I do have some Mesquite logs I've been
saving, but currently no way to mill it into boards.

--------------------------
No scrap pallets?

I bought this to see if it would be better than the simpler guide I was
using to slab big logs to 21" width. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Chainsaw-Mill-Galvanized-Woodworkers/dp/B0C5BMT6ZQ?

Then I solved the problem with the simple guide and used it instead. https://www.hud-son.com/product/boardmaster-chainsaw-attachment/?
It works even if the bar (20") is shorter than the width of the slab, the
kerf guides the saw to finish from the other side after rolling the log a quarter turn. I assume you can roll a 2 ton log.

Its disadvantage is having to reposition the guide plank after each board,
the slabs took only one cut per side. Having the slab cuts vertical made it easy to set the opposing side guides to cut parallel. The Alaskan mill needs
a guide (ladder) only for the first cut, the rest key off the previous one. It's been useful to be able to cut boards and beams to any thickness, not
just purchased sizes.

For slabbing clamp parts under the bar restrict capacity due to the shallow angle. I was able to drill through the bar sprocket pivot center with a carbide glass drill bit, to have only a countersunk screw head on the bottom side.

I used the normal firewood chain. Ripping chain is said to cut smoother but slower.

I asked a neighbor for help and told him all he had to do was sit on a stool and move a 2000 Lb log with one finger. That was easy with the log hanging above the sawmill track. He centered one end, I the other and then lowered
it.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/24/2026 1:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10nkvif$1g3b1$1@dont-email.me...

Oak isn't a bad idea, but I'd have to go get some.-a I have lots of aluminum.-a As an alternative I do have some Mesquite logs I've been
saving, but currently no way to mill it into boards.

--------------------------
No scrap pallets?

I bought this to see if it would be better than the simpler guide I was using to slab big logs to 21" width. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Chainsaw-Mill-Galvanized-Woodworkers/dp/ B0C5BMT6ZQ?

Then I solved the problem with the simple guide and used it instead. https://www.hud-son.com/product/boardmaster-chainsaw-attachment/?
It works even if the bar (20") is shorter than the width of the slab,
the kerf guides the saw to finish from the other side after rolling the
log a quarter turn. I assume you can roll a 2 ton log.

Its disadvantage is having to reposition the guide plank after each
board, the slabs took only one cut per side. Having the slab cuts
vertical made it easy to set the opposing side guides to cut parallel.
The Alaskan mill needs a guide (ladder) only for the first cut, the rest
key off the previous one. It's been useful to be able to cut boards and beams to any thickness, not just purchased sizes.

For slabbing clamp parts under the bar restrict capacity due to the
shallow angle. I was able to drill through the bar sprocket pivot center with a carbide glass drill bit, to have only a countersunk screw head on
the bottom side.

I used the normal firewood chain. Ripping chain is said to cut smoother
but slower.

I asked a neighbor for help and told him all he had to do was sit on a
stool and move a 2000 Lb log with one finger. That was easy with the log hanging above the sawmill track. He centered one end, I the other and
then lowered it.

Pallets I get are all kinds of wood. Mostly some sort of white wood,
but not always. A freind of mine that used to work for Foxworth
Galbraith Lumber Company in the yard and driving delivery truck said he
saw pallets come in made from all kinds of stuff. Even near cabinet
grade cherry and walnut. I told him he should just buy them all at the
pallet return rate and stock up on them for his retirement gig. He was
a fair wood worker, and his dad was a master furniture restorer.

I've thought about a chainsaw mill a couple times, but that would
require me to rebuild yet another small engine carb every time I needed
it. LOL. I get by with an electric chainsaw and some big 8.0ah
batteries for the few trees I have to trim every other year, and I never
have to rebuild its carburetor. The cordless doesn't have the gront for milling hard dry mesquite. Maybe if I did it while it was still green,
but no. I don't think so. Most of it I chunk up into pieces short
enough to go in the grill and leave it out back to dry for steak night.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/24/2026 3:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I get by with an electric chainsaw and some big 8.0ah batteries

... and those batteries fit my other cordless power tools when I need
some grunt on an angle grinder or a cordless circular saw.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10nl8c1$1ghro$1@dont-email.me...

Pallets I get are all kinds of wood. Mostly some sort of white wood,
but not always.

-------------------------

Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) can be nearly as hard and strong as oak though
not all is, check with a knife point or fingernail. It is hard enough to suggest pre-drilling screw holes to thread root diameter. Usually it's pressure treated and may still be damp. I've seen and bought it as regular dried lumber but not recently. Small pieces (wedges) can be microwaved dry,
a bowl turner showed me how well that works as he prefers to turn the wood green and soft. I use PT outdoors and don't bother.

I buy the warped pieces cheap as "cull". Sometimes it dries straight, otherwise it becomes 4' diagonal corner braces for sheds. The longest
pieces, 12' and 16', tie down corrugated roofing.

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood/wood-explorer/southern-yellow-pine-why-some-people-prefer-spruce

I didn't learn enough in the 5 evening 3D CAD class to know which filament
to select or how to design for high strength, and anyway I can use metal.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10nl8g0$1gi0h$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/24/2026 3:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I get by with an electric chainsaw and some big 8.0ah batteries

... and those batteries fit my other cordless power tools when I need
some grunt on an angle grinder or a cordless circular saw.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-------------------------------

That's an area I haven't and maybe should look into further. I still use a DeWalt NiCad drill converted to NiMH, otherwise corded or gas. Do you have a suggestion of a cheaper-than-Milwaukee brand that won't soon become
obsolete? I loved Milwaukee when the company was paying, they outlasted 10
of anyone else's for building steel machinery, but have only their corded
1/2" drill.

"Converted" means a different charger, the original NiCad one peaked at
higher voltage than is recommended for NiMH and wasn't on the list approved for both.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/24/2026 5:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10nl8g0$1gi0h$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/24/2026 3:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I get by with an electric chainsaw and some big 8.0ah batteries

... and those batteries fit my other cordless power tools when I need
some grunt on an angle grinder or a cordless circular saw.

I don't have any cordless tools that are not out powered by their corded
or gas powered counter parts. A lot of cordless is handier or faster
for a single hole or cut than dragging out a cord, and winding up the
cord when I am done. That being said, when I was contracting I tended
to prefer Milwaukee for drills. Both cordless and corded.

I used the Harbor Freight Bauer cordless for a while, but a year or so
ago I gave all my Bauer stuff to my son and started using my dad's
DeWalt cordless stuff. Its decent, but its not inexpensive either. A
sort of secret weapon with DeWalt is there are battery adapters to use
the older DeWalt 18V stuff with their current 20V line batteries. As a
result for very little I now have five DeWalt cordless drills. I've
also got a couple older DeWalt saws with adapters to run the current 20V batteries.

No matter what, good batteries are expensive. I think I spent around
$700 for 4 8ah DeWalt 10V batteries. Yes, the 8ah make a difference.
They CAN delivery more current with less voltage drop. I brought this
up when Richard was talking about cordless for one of his mining
applications. Higher capacity batteries can deliver more power in the
same time period.

DeWalt (and probably also other platforms) offers a truly high power
battery platform. The batteries for those can deliver 20V for the
regular tools and 60V for the high power tools. I don't have any, and
yes they make a 20/60 chainsaw too. I just don't cut enough to make it
worth the cost, and if I did I'd probably go gas. You don't have to
clean carbs on small gas engines if you use them all the time.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/25/2026 3:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 2/24/2026 5:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10nl8g0$1gi0h$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/24/2026 3:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I get by with an electric chainsaw and some big 8.0ah batteries

... and those batteries fit my other cordless power tools when I need
some grunt on an angle grinder or a cordless circular saw.

I don't have any cordless tools that are not out powered by their corded
or gas powered counter parts.-a A lot of cordless is handier or faster
for a single hole or cut than dragging out a cord, and winding up the
cord when I am done.-a That being said, when I was contracting I tended
to prefer Milwaukee for drills.-a Both cordless and corded.

I used the Harbor Freight Bauer cordless for a while, but a year or so
ago I gave all my Bauer stuff to my son and started using my dad's
DeWalt cordless stuff.-a Its decent, but its not inexpensive either.-a A sort of secret weapon with DeWalt is there are battery adapters to use
the older DeWalt 18V stuff with their current 20V line batteries.-a As a result for very little I now have five DeWalt cordless drills.-a I've
also got a couple older DeWalt saws with adapters to run the current 20V batteries.

No matter what, good batteries are expensive.-a I think I spent around
$700 for 4 8ah DeWalt 10V batteries.-a Yes, the 8ah make a difference.
They CAN delivery more current with less voltage drop.-a I brought this
up when Richard was talking about cordless for one of his mining applications.-a Higher capacity batteries can deliver more power in the
same time period.

DeWalt (and probably also other platforms) offers a truly high power
battery platform.-a The batteries for those can deliver 20V for the
regular tools and 60V for the high power tools.-a I don't have any, and
yes they make a 20/60 chainsaw too.-a I just don't cut enough to make it worth the cost, and if I did I'd probably go gas.-a You don't have to
clean carbs on small gas engines if you use them all the time.

All my battery tools are DeWalt ... most are the older 18V and I've
found reasonably priced aftermarket batteries for them . Most of these
were gifts from a neighbor that got them in an auction lot . The "shop
drill" is a 20V that I picked up at a yard sale , found a couple of aftermarket batteries for it also .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10nnrca$1ke96$1@dont-email.me...

I don't have any cordless tools that are not out powered by their corded
or gas powered counter parts. A lot of cordless is handier or faster
for a single hole or cut than dragging out a cord, and winding up the
cord when I am done. That being said, when I was contracting I tended
to prefer Milwaukee for drills. Both cordless and corded.

------------------------
Thanks, I'll look into DeWalt 20V if I need something new.

I've found that I don't mind one corded tool on a job for the heavier work like deep 3/8" and 1/2" holes in steel or oak. For pilot holes etc cordless
is handy, especially the pocket-sized 4V Ryobi. I keep all the tools nearby and off the ground on a roll-around cart that once lived in a semiconductor fab clean room.

I made the handrail on my deck and the top of a low driveway retaining wall
as wide work platforms that are very convenient when working on the house or car, lawnmower or snow blower. A large tray that auto parts stores displayed cardboard oil cans on keeps drips from staining the decking.

--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/25/2026 4:33 PM, Snag wrote:

DeWalt (and probably also other platforms) offers a truly high power
battery platform.-a The batteries for those can deliver 20V for the
regular tools and 60V for the high power tools.-a I don't have any, and
yes they make a 20/60 chainsaw too.-a I just don't cut enough to make
it worth the cost, and if I did I'd probably go gas.-a You don't have
to clean carbs on small gas engines if you use them all the time.

-a All my battery tools are DeWalt ... most are the older 18V and I've found reasonably priced aftermarket batteries for them-a . Most of these were gifts from a neighbor that got them in an auction lot . The "shop drill" is a 20V that I picked up at a yard sale , found a couple of aftermarket batteries for it also .

I've worn out cordless tools. Some from abuse, others just got used so
much they failed. The one thing that pissed me off with the older
Milwaukee cordless was when I replaced worn out brushes they didn't ever
seem to work as well. No reason not to. I don't think its DRM, but it
could be. I just think something in the tool starts to fail when you
are pushing the old brushes to their limit. I am am paying real money
for a cordless tool I prefer to get the newer brushless motors. That
doesn't mean I won't buy an older brushed tool if its good and dirt
cheap or free, but I actually use my stuff a lot still.

Maybe third party batteries are better now, but I've had poor results
with them int he past. I know (mostly) that a name brand battery meets
its spec at least initially. Its like alarm batteries when I still had
the alarmco. I tried all the cheaper brands, and finally just gave up
on anything but Yuasa, because it was not my goal to charge customers
for preventable service calls to replace batteries.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/25/2026 5:01 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10nnrca$1ke96$1@dont-email.me...

I don't have any cordless tools that are not out powered by their corded
or gas powered counter parts.-a A lot of cordless is handier or faster
for a single hole or cut than dragging out a cord, and winding up the
cord when I am done.-a That being said, when I was contracting I tended
to prefer Milwaukee for drills.-a Both cordless and corded.

------------------------
Thanks, I'll look into DeWalt 20V if I need something new.

I've found that I don't mind one corded tool on a job for the heavier
work like deep 3/8" and 1/2" holes in steel or oak. For pilot holes etc cordless is handy, especially the pocket-sized 4V Ryobi. I keep all the tools nearby and off the ground on a roll-around cart that once lived in
a semiconductor fab clean room.

I guess Ryobi is better now, but I was given a brand new Ryobi set (6
tools in a box I think) many years ago, and the batteries were garbage. Nothing to piss you off more than climbing up in an attic with a battery
fresh off the charger to cut a hole in some plywood and have it die
without finishing the first cut. I have some corded Ryobi tools and
they are like the lower end made for K-Mart Black & Decker used to be,
okay, maybe not quite as good, but generally cheap and okay for a couple
jobs or abusive applications. I have a Ryobi circular saw I just use
for abrasive blades because it was cheap. I don't care if it melts or
grinds itself to death. It almost paid for itself on the first cut.

(I still have a couple of those old made for K-Mart B&D drills I bought
when I first started contracting, because I couldn't afford anything
else. One beat up old 1/2inch drill is over 30 years old.)

I made the handrail on my deck and the top of a low driveway retaining
wall as wide work platforms that are very convenient when working on the house or car, lawnmower or snow blower. A large tray that auto parts
stores displayed cardboard oil cans on keeps drips from staining the decking.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/24/2026 4:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10nl8c1$1ghro$1@dont-email.me...

Pallets I get are all kinds of wood.-a Mostly some sort of white wood,
but not always.

-------------------------

Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) can be nearly as hard and strong as oak
though not all is, check with a knife point or fingernail. It is hard
enough to suggest pre-drilling screw holes to thread root diameter.
Usually it's pressure treated and may still be damp. I've seen and
bought it as regular dried lumber but not recently. Small pieces
(wedges) can be microwaved dry, a bowl turner showed me how well that
works as he prefers to turn the wood green and soft. I use PT outdoors
and don't bother.

I buy the warped pieces cheap as "cull". Sometimes it dries straight, otherwise it becomes 4' diagonal corner braces for sheds. The longest pieces, 12' and 16', tie down corrugated roofing.

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood/wood-explorer/southern-yellow- pine-why-some-people-prefer-spruce

I didn't learn enough in the 5 evening 3D CAD class to know which
filament to select or how to design for high strength, and anyway I can
use metal.

It may all be moot. Turns out the dies are not the size advertised.
the two smaller sizes claim to be 5 inch radius and the three larger
sizes claim to be 7 inch radius. They don't say if that's IR (inside
radius or CLR (center line radius). Turns out the IR of the 1-1/4 die
is closer to 5-3/4 and the CLR is closer to 6-1/8. Probably close
enough that I don't need to make a die. The larger die I checked is
more like 8 than 7 also.

The dies all appear to be some sort of fairly tough cast aluminum, and
they claim if you lube the dies they will last a long time. Makes
sense. They are cast and rough machined. Lube would be necessary if
only to over come friction.

That being said I do want some dies that didn't come with the set. I
have a small box of A356 on the shelf maybe enough to cast one of them.
I don't really want to make foundry work a big part of what I do and its
a lot of work. I may just machine the other dies I want using sandwich techniques for strength.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 2/27/2026 10:01 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 2/25/2026 4:33 PM, Snag wrote:

DeWalt (and probably also other platforms) offers a truly high power
battery platform.-a The batteries for those can deliver 20V for the
regular tools and 60V for the high power tools.-a I don't have any,
and yes they make a 20/60 chainsaw too.-a I just don't cut enough to
make it worth the cost, and if I did I'd probably go gas.-a You don't
have to clean carbs on small gas engines if you use them all the time.

-a-a All my battery tools are DeWalt ... most are the older 18V and I've
found reasonably priced aftermarket batteries for them-a . Most of
these were gifts from a neighbor that got them in an auction lot . The
"shop drill" is a 20V that I picked up at a yard sale , found a couple
of aftermarket batteries for it also .

I've worn out cordless tools.-a Some from abuse, others just got used so much they failed.-a The one thing that pissed me off with the older Milwaukee cordless was when I replaced worn out brushes they didn't ever seem to work as well.-a No reason not to.-a I don't think its DRM, but it could be.-a I just think something in the tool starts to fail when you
are pushing the old brushes to their limit.-a I am am paying real money
for a cordless tool I prefer to get the newer brushless motors.-a That doesn't mean I won't buy an older brushed tool if its good and dirt
cheap or free, but I actually use my stuff a lot still.

Maybe third party batteries are better now, but I've had poor results
with them int he past.-a I know (mostly) that a name brand battery meets
its spec at least initially.-a Its like alarm batteries when I still had
the alarmco.-a I tried all the cheaper brands, and finally just gave up
on anything but Yuasa, because it was not my goal to charge customers
for preventable service calls to replace batteries.

All my replacement batteries are (I think) the Li-Ion type . They are
not NiCads . Gotta have the right charger for these , mine swings both
ways .
--
Snag
I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
--- Synchronet 3.21b-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On Fri, 27 Feb 2026 09:09:03 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:

On 2/25/2026 5:01 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"a wrote in message news:10nnrca$1ke96$1@dont-email.me...

I don't have any cordless tools that are not out powered by their corded
or gas powered counter parts.a A lot of cordless is handier or faster
for a single hole or cut than dragging out a cord, and winding up the
cord when I am done.a That being said, when I was contracting I tended
to prefer Milwaukee for drills.a Both cordless and corded.

------------------------
Thanks, I'll look into DeWalt 20V if I need something new.

I've found that I don't mind one corded tool on a job for the heavier
work like deep 3/8" and 1/2" holes in steel or oak. For pilot holes etc
cordless is handy, especially the pocket-sized 4V Ryobi. I keep all the
tools nearby and off the ground on a roll-around cart that once lived in
a semiconductor fab clean room.

I guess Ryobi is better now, but I was given a brand new Ryobi set (6
tools in a box I think) many years ago, and the batteries were garbage. >Nothing to piss you off more than climbing up in an attic with a battery >fresh off the charger to cut a hole in some plywood and have it die
without finishing the first cut. I have some corded Ryobi tools and
they are like the lower end made for K-Mart Black & Decker used to be,
okay, maybe not quite as good, but generally cheap and okay for a couple >jobs or abusive applications. I have a Ryobi circular saw I just use
for abrasive blades because it was cheap. I don't care if it melts or >grinds itself to death. It almost paid for itself on the first cut.

(I still have a couple of those old made for K-Mart B&D drills I bought
when I first started contracting, because I couldn't afford anything
else. One beat up old 1/2inch drill is over 30 years old.)

I still have my first electric drill - a "Portable Electric Tools"
1/4" 2000RPM unit purchased for $17.00 from Canadian Tire in 1957.
I rarely use it anymore but it has wired a half dozen houses and
served as a power unit for grinding lawn mower blades, polishing
military brass and everything else a person could dream up.
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Gerry" wrote in message news:33t4qk1a49uemq2uf5re5cc2m6pdmmqvli@4ax.com...

I still have my first electric drill - a "Portable Electric Tools"
1/4" 2000RPM unit purchased for $17.00 from Canadian Tire in 1957.
I rarely use it anymore but it has wired a half dozen houses and
served as a power unit for grinding lawn mower blades, polishing
military brass and everything else a person could dream up.

---------------------------
I found that carbon motor brushes have decent compressive but little tensile strength and replacements for old ones can be milled or filed down from available larger sizes by first beveling the off side and cutting inward
from the near edge.

The carbon compound has a voltage range related to its resistivity and
ability to block commutator circulating current without heating too much, brushes for 120V and 12V are different. I don't know if 12V and 24V vehicle brush compounds differ, some are rated for both.

https://www.helwigcarbon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/ta1_96_2013-brushes_sprkng_mach-maint-single-pages.pdf
"... the load current impelled by high voltage must pass over the contact only once, while the circulating current in the shortcircuited coil must
pass over the contact twice and has only low voltage behind it."

The sparking can convert Silicone vapor into abrasive Silicon Carbide.

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