I tell you stupid bike mechanics get banned from this group.
Andrew has some background on this so he can banned if needed.
I fancy myself as a competent bike mechanic. I don't work
fast but in the end the bike will ride correct within the
parameters of what it can do. I generally get there and
folks have even said I manage a problem the LBS here did not
want to do or just took the easy out.
My Habanero disc brake bike has been on the trainer now
using it daily since middle of last November. It is fully
R7000 drive train 11 speed. Well I notice some play in the
cranks. Let it go for awhile and then decided to get to the
problem.
Turns out if when I finally pulled the crank out and the
drive side crank bottom bracket was bad. Lucky I had new
right side only and put it on and put the crank back.
Preload worked well tighten non drive crank arm, and the
cranks spun perfect. I thought I have solved the problem.
Well I was still have trouble with FD and not making the
chain go all the way to the big ring. It would get close
enough to clear the ring but could not hold it. I keep
thinking it was all a cable issue and getting the right
tension. I was working at various angles and after 1 hour
finally look down and it seemed the drive side crank was not
up against the BB. I thought it was crazy because I actually
road the bike this morning using only the small ring 22
miles and crank spun perfect.
But I then got out and mallet and wooden block and hit the
right crank side hard and boom. The crank went all the way
in and wow. I then loosen the crank bolts on the other side
and did the preload again. Sure enough crank spins perfect
no play.
That solved my FD not allowing the chain to go all the way
to the big ring. I then set high and low limits and tension.
It now shifts perfectly in all combinations and with no rub
and not needing any use of trim.
What I learned was to make sure you RTFM it will tell you
what you need to know, at least Shimano's manuals. Do not
try to take short cuts thinking you will save time. Occum's
Razor does not necessarily work with bikes. Go back to
square one with everything out front and within ease worked.
I wanted to avoid taking off the whole crank so until I
actually popped the crank and spindle out did I see what had
happen to the BB right cup. I wanted to avoid removing the
front derailleur to get a look at all the various set
screws. I had lost the high limit screw only to find it got
wedge in the derailleur when I push it all the way through
the stop. Taking if off revealed this and also a better
insight into what the RTFM means. I did avoid removing the
chain though I still work with it ok with FD off.
Any competent mechanic would have either not done this or
got it figured out in a a jiffy. So many ban my butt the
this ng.
I tell you stupid bike mechanics get banned from this group. Andrew has
some background on this so he can banned if needed.
I fancy myself as a competent bike mechanic. I don't work fast but in
the end the bike will ride correct within the parameters of what it can
do. I generally get there and folks have even said I manage a problem
the LBS here did not want to do or just took the easy out.
My Habanero disc brake bike has been on the trainer now using it daily
since middle of last November. It is fully R7000 drive train 11 speed.
Well I notice some play in the cranks. Let it go for awhile and then
decided to get to the problem.
Turns out if when I finally pulled the crank out and the drive side
crank bottom bracket was bad. Lucky I had new right side only and put it
on and put the crank back. Preload worked well tighten non drive crank
arm, and the cranks spun perfect. I thought I have solved the problem.
Well I was still have trouble with FD and not making the chain go all
the way to the big ring. It would get close enough to clear the ring but >could not hold it. I keep thinking it was all a cable issue and getting
the right tension. I was working at various angles and after 1 hour
finally look down and it seemed the drive side crank was not up against
the BB. I thought it was crazy because I actually road the bike this
morning using only the small ring 22 miles and crank spun perfect.
But I then got out and mallet and wooden block and hit the right crank
side hard and boom. The crank went all the way in and wow. I then loosen
the crank bolts on the other side and did the preload again. Sure enough >crank spins perfect no play.
That solved my FD not allowing the chain to go all the way to the big
ring. I then set high and low limits and tension. It now shifts
perfectly in all combinations and with no rub and not needing any use of >trim.
What I learned was to make sure you RTFM it will tell you what you need
to know, at least Shimano's manuals. Do not try to take short cuts
thinking you will save time. Occum's Razor does not necessarily work
with bikes. Go back to square one with everything out front and within
ease worked. I wanted to avoid taking off the whole crank so until I >actually popped the crank and spindle out did I see what had happen to
the BB right cup. I wanted to avoid removing the front derailleur to get
a look at all the various set screws. I had lost the high limit screw
only to find it got wedge in the derailleur when I push it all the way >through the stop. Taking if off revealed this and also a better insight
into what the RTFM means. I did avoid removing the chain though I still
work with it ok with FD off.
Any competent mechanic would have either not done this or got it figured
out in a a jiffy. So many ban my butt the this ng.
I tell you stupid bike mechanics get banned from this group.
some background on this so he can banned if needed.
I fancy myself as a competent bike mechanic. I don't work fast but in
the end the bike will ride correct within the parameters of what it can
do. I generally get there and folks have even said I manage a problem
the LBS here did not want to do or just took the easy out.
My Habanero disc brake bike has been on the trainer now using it daily
since middle of last November. It is fully R7000 drive train 11 speed.
Well I notice some play in the cranks. Let it go for awhile and then
decided to get to the problem.
Turns out if when I finally pulled the crank out and the drive side
crank bottom bracket was bad. Lucky I had new right side only and put it
on and put the crank back. Preload worked well tighten non drive crank
arm, and the cranks spun perfect. I thought I have solved the problem.
Well I was still have trouble with FD and not making the chain go all
the way to the big ring. It would get close enough to clear the ring but could not hold it. I keep thinking it was all a cable issue and getting
the right tension. I was working at various angles and after 1 hour
finally look down and it seemed the drive side crank was not up against
the BB. I thought it was crazy because I actually road the bike this
morning using only the small ring 22 miles and crank spun perfect.
But I then got out and mallet and wooden block and hit the right crank
side hard and boom. The crank went all the way in and wow. I then loosen
the crank bolts on the other side and did the preload again. Sure enough crank spins perfect no play.
That solved my FD not allowing the chain to go all the way to the big
ring. I then set high and low limits and tension. It now shifts
perfectly in all combinations and with no rub and not needing any use of trim.
What I learned was to make sure you RTFM it will tell you what you need
to know, at least Shimano's manuals. Do not try to take short cuts
thinking you will save time. Occum's Razor does not necessarily work
with bikes. Go back to square one with everything out front and within
ease worked. I wanted to avoid taking off the whole crank so until I actually popped the crank and spindle out did I see what had happen to
the BB right cup. I wanted to avoid removing the front derailleur to get
a look at all the various set screws. I had lost the high limit screw
only to find it got wedge in the derailleur when I push it all the way through the stop. Taking if off revealed this and also a better insight
into what the RTFM means. I did avoid removing the chain though I still
work with it ok with FD off.
Any competent mechanic would have either not done this or got it figured
out in a a jiffy. So many ban my butt the this ng.
On 2/22/2026 6:04 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
I tell you stupid bike mechanics get banned from this group.
That is demonstrably false.
-aAndrew has
some background on this so he can banned if needed.
I fancy myself as a competent bike mechanic. I don't work
fast but in the end the bike will ride correct within the
parameters of what it can do. I generally get there and
folks have even said I manage a problem the LBS here did
not want to do or just took the easy out.
My Habanero disc brake bike has been on the trainer now
using it daily since middle of last November. It is fully
R7000 drive train 11 speed. Well I notice some play in the
cranks. Let it go for awhile and then decided to get to
the problem.
Turns out if when I finally pulled the crank out and the
drive side crank bottom bracket was bad. Lucky I had new
right side only and put it on and put the crank back.
Preload worked well tighten non drive crank arm, and the
cranks spun perfect. I thought I have solved the problem.
Well I was still have trouble with FD and not making the
chain go all the way to the big ring. It would get close
enough to clear the ring but could not hold it. I keep
thinking it was all a cable issue and getting the right
tension. I was working at various angles and after 1 hour
finally look down and it seemed the drive side crank was
not up against the BB. I thought it was crazy because I
actually road the bike this morning using only the small
ring 22 miles and crank spun perfect.
But I then got out and mallet and wooden block and hit the
right crank side hard and boom. The crank went all the way
in and wow. I then loosen the crank bolts on the other
side and did the preload again. Sure enough crank spins
perfect no play.
That solved my FD not allowing the chain to go all the way
to the big ring. I then set high and low limits and
tension. It now shifts perfectly in all combinations and
with no rub and not needing any use of trim.
What I learned was to make sure you RTFM it will tell you
what you need to know, at least Shimano's manuals. Do not
try to take short cuts thinking you will save time.
Occum's Razor does not necessarily work with bikes. Go
back to square one with everything out front and within
ease worked. I wanted to avoid taking off the whole crank
so until I actually popped the crank and spindle out did I
see what had happen to the BB right cup. I wanted to avoid
removing the front derailleur to get a look at all the
various set screws. I had lost the high limit screw only
to find it got wedge in the derailleur when I push it all
the way through the stop. Taking if off revealed this and
also a better insight into what the RTFM means. I did
avoid removing the chain though I still work with it ok
with FD off.
Any competent mechanic would have either not done this or
got it figured out in a a jiffy. So many ban my butt the
this ng.
On 2/22/2026 5:04 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
I tell you stupid bike mechanics get banned from this group.
Andrew has some background on this so he can banned if needed.
I fancy myself as a competent bike mechanic. I don't work
fast but in the end the bike will ride correct within the
parameters of what it can do. I generally get there and
folks have even said I manage a problem the LBS here did not
want to do or just took the easy out.
My Habanero disc brake bike has been on the trainer now
using it daily since middle of last November. It is fully
R7000 drive train 11 speed. Well I notice some play in the
cranks. Let it go for awhile and then decided to get to the
problem.
Turns out if when I finally pulled the crank out and the
drive side crank bottom bracket was bad. Lucky I had new
right side only and put it on and put the crank back.
Preload worked well tighten non drive crank arm, and the
cranks spun perfect. I thought I have solved the problem.
Well I was still have trouble with FD and not making the
chain go all the way to the big ring. It would get close
enough to clear the ring but could not hold it. I keep
thinking it was all a cable issue and getting the right
tension. I was working at various angles and after 1 hour
finally look down and it seemed the drive side crank was not
up against the BB. I thought it was crazy because I actually
road the bike this morning using only the small ring 22
miles and crank spun perfect.
But I then got out and mallet and wooden block and hit the
right crank side hard and boom. The crank went all the way
in and wow. I then loosen the crank bolts on the other side
and did the preload again. Sure enough crank spins perfect
no play.
That solved my FD not allowing the chain to go all the way
to the big ring. I then set high and low limits and tension.
It now shifts perfectly in all combinations and with no rub
and not needing any use of trim.
What I learned was to make sure you RTFM it will tell you
what you need to know, at least Shimano's manuals. Do not
try to take short cuts thinking you will save time. Occum's
Razor does not necessarily work with bikes. Go back to
square one with everything out front and within ease worked.
I wanted to avoid taking off the whole crank so until I
actually popped the crank and spindle out did I see what had
happen to the BB right cup. I wanted to avoid removing the
front derailleur to get a look at all the various set
screws. I had lost the high limit screw only to find it got
wedge in the derailleur when I push it all the way through
the stop. Taking if off revealed this and also a better
insight into what the RTFM means. I did avoid removing the
chain though I still work with it ok with FD off.
Any competent mechanic would have either not done this or
got it figured out in a a jiffy. So many ban my butt the
this ng.
Thanks for a good story and refreshing honesty!
This likely explains your previous 'right side cup chewed up'.
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