Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my racing bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very stable and wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room around it that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus the some tyres blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it does to be fair but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm and moved from tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month or so back got some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in the rain with that bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route isnrCOt one that pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its effectiveness does drop off in such conditions.
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better
rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags
some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is
very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer
kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG
frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm
sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have
your own chasing tool? Sure the brand name ones are pricy
but the off-brands are in the $100 range and do just as good
a job. For someone making $12K a month on his investments
I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool shouldn't be
a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus
the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it
does to be fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm
and moved from
tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month
or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in the
rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route
isnrCOt one that
pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width of
different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level
he rides. It's more likely due to inflation pressures and
even then if he's reasonably close between the two it's
probably not very noticeable unless you get up to an
appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will
vary widely from day to day.
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better
rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags
some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is
very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer
kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG
frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm
sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have
your own chasing tool? Sure the brand name ones are pricy
but the off-brands are in the $100 range and do just as good
a job. For someone making $12K a month on his investments
I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool shouldn't be
a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus
the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it
does to be fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm
and moved from
tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month
or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in the
rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route
isnrCOt one that
pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width of
different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level
he rides. It's more likely due to inflation pressures and
even then if he's reasonably close between the two it's
probably not very noticeable unless you get up to an
appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will
vary widely from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother. Aside from a general quality
common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge,
straight or butted tube, geometry, jointing all contribute
or detract from 'stiffness' as perceived by one rider or
another. It's mostly meaningless.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm. Road surface and inflation
variables dwarf that section difference.
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my racing >>>> bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very stable and >>>> wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room
around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to
get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG frames were
tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm sure Andrew can
elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have your own chasing tool?
Sure the brand name ones are pricy but the off-brands are in the $100
range and do just as good a job. For someone making $12K a month on
his investments I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool
shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus the some
tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it does to be
fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm and moved from >>> tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month or so back got >>> some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in the rain with
that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route isnrCOt one that >>> pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its effectiveness does drop >>> off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different manufacturers can
vary greatly, and even the same width of different models from the
same manufacturer can show substantial differences. This is
exacerbated by using different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there
was noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance) between
the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level he rides. It's more
likely due to inflation pressures and even then if he's reasonably
close between the two it's probably not very noticeable unless you get
up to an appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will vary widely
from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother.-a Aside from a general quality common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge, straight or butted tube,
geometry, jointing all contribute or detract from 'stiffness' as
perceived by one rider or another. It's mostly meaningless.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm.-a Road surface and inflation variables dwarf
that section difference.
On 1/14/2026 8:33 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far
better rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and
drags some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is
very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer
kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG
frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard.
I'm sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why don't
you have your own chasing tool? Sure the brand name ones
are pricy but the off-brands are in the $100 range and do
just as good a job. For someone making $12K a month on
his investments I'd think a few hundred bucks for a
decent tool shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit.
Plus the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which
it does to be fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to
28mm and moved from
tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month
or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in
the rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route
isnrCOt one that
pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width
of different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the
level he rides. It's more likely due to inflation
pressures and even then if he's reasonably close between
the two it's probably not very noticeable unless you get
up to an appreciable speed. The most likely issue that
tired him out was just his physical status that day - at
his age it will vary widely from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother.-a Aside from a general quality
common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge,
straight or butted tube, geometry, jointing all contribute
or detract from 'stiffness' as perceived by one rider or
another. It's mostly meaningless.
I think he was referring to the hardness as in rockwell
scale. I was thinking you - as someone who has undoubtedly
chased literally hundreds of bottom brackets on the pantheon
of frames materials - might be able to comment on whether
the alloy used for the aluminum Schwinn Paramounts is soft
compared to alloys used by other frame builders.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm.-a Road surface and inflation
variables dwarf that section difference.
On 1/14/2026 6:15 PM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 8:33 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my
racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which >>>>>> completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very
stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room
around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to >>>>>> get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG frames
were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm sure Andrew can
elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have your own chasing tool?
Sure the brand name ones are pricy but the off-brands are in the
$100 range and do just as good a job. For someone making $12K a
month on his investments I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent
tool shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus the some >>>>> tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it does to
be fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm and moved >>>>> from
tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and month or so back >>>>> got
some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in the rain
with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route isnrCOt one >>>>> that
pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its effectiveness does
drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different manufacturers can
vary greatly, and even the same width of different models from the
same manufacturer can show substantial differences. This is
exacerbated by using different rim widths. As for tommy claiming
there was noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level he rides.
It's more likely due to inflation pressures and even then if he's
reasonably close between the two it's probably not very noticeable
unless you get up to an appreciable speed. The most likely issue
that tired him out was just his physical status that day - at his
age it will vary widely from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother.-a Aside from a general quality common to
that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge, straight or butted tube,
geometry, jointing all contribute or detract from 'stiffness' as
perceived by one rider or another. It's mostly meaningless.
I think he was referring to the hardness as in rockwell scale. I was
thinking you - as someone who has undoubtedly chased literally
hundreds of bottom brackets on the pantheon of frames materials -
might be able to comment on whether the alloy used for the aluminum
Schwinn Paramounts is soft compared to alloys used by other frame
builders.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm.-a Road surface and inflation variables dwarf
that section difference.
No, it's not different, neither better nor worse.
Unless someone jammed a cup in crooked or put the left one on the right, almost all BB thread blockage can be rectified with a small stainless
brush.
On 1/14/2026 7:47 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 6:15 PM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 8:33 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far
better rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and
drags some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike
is very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather
softer kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount
PDG frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite
hard. I'm sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why
don't you have your own chasing tool? Sure the brand
name ones are pricy but the off-brands are in the $100
range and do just as good a job. For someone making
$12K a month on his investments I'd think a few hundred
bucks for a decent tool shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit.
Plus the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm
which it does to be fair
but itrCOs fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to
28mm and moved from
tough training tyres to rCLpuncture proofrCY ones, and
month or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I donrCOt aim to ride in
the rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the
route isnrCOt one that
pushes braking much as itrCOs rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width
of different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling
resistance) between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no.
Not at the level he rides. It's more likely due to
inflation pressures and even then if he's reasonably
close between the two it's probably not very noticeable
unless you get up to an appreciable speed. The most
likely issue that tired him out was just his physical
status that day - at his age it will vary widely from
day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother.-a Aside from a general quality
common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge,
straight or butted tube, geometry, jointing all
contribute or detract from 'stiffness' as perceived by
one rider or another. It's mostly meaningless.
I think he was referring to the hardness as in rockwell
scale. I was thinking you - as someone who has
undoubtedly chased literally hundreds of bottom brackets
on the pantheon of frames materials - might be able to
comment on whether the alloy used for the aluminum
Schwinn Paramounts is soft compared to alloys used by
other frame builders.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm.-a Road surface and inflation
variables dwarf that section difference.
No, it's not different, neither better nor worse.
Unless someone jammed a cup in crooked or put the left one
on the right, almost all BB thread blockage can be
rectified with a small stainless brush.
I usually use a wire brush on the end of a drill for
cleaning BB threads....That gets it _really_ clean.
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better
rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags
some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is
very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer
kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG
frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm
sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have
your own chasing tool? Sure the brand name ones are pricy
but the off-brands are in the $100 range and do just as good
a job. For someone making $12K a month on his investments
I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool shouldn't be
a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus
the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it
does to be fair
but it?s fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm
and moved from
tough training tyres to ?puncture proof? ones, and month
or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I don?t aim to ride in the
rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route
isn?t one that
pushes braking much as it?s rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width of
different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level
he rides. It's more likely due to inflation pressures and
even then if he's reasonably close between the two it's
probably not very noticeable unless you get up to an
appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will
vary widely from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother. Aside from a general qualityThe bike is steel and even among the Columbus series, riders blind tested ALL chose Thron tubing which was one of Columbuses lower grade steels. They ALL found that it was of sufficient strength not to effect handling and rode better than even TSX.
common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge,
straight or butted tube, geometry, jointing all contribute
or detract from 'stiffness' as perceived by one rider or
another. It's mostly meaningless.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm. Road surface and inflation
variables dwarf that section difference.
I assumed he ment to be honest that it was brushing the frame? But wasn?t clear.Quite correct, the tire wasn't perfectly straight on the rim and brushed the inside of the front fork. Not much but really amazing how much that tires you out.
On 1/14/2026 8:33 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my racing >>>> bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very stable and >>>> wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room
around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to
get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG frames were
tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm sure Andrew can
elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have your own chasing tool?
Sure the brand name ones are pricy but the off-brands are in the $100
range and do just as good a job. For someone making $12K a month on
his investments I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool
shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus the some
tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it does to be
fair
but it?s fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm and moved from >>> tough training tyres to ?puncture proof? ones, and month or so back got >>> some mudguards fitted. As while I don?t aim to ride in the rain with
that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route isn?t one that >>> pushes braking much as it?s rim brakes so its effectiveness does drop
off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different manufacturers can
vary greatly, and even the same width of different models from the
same manufacturer can show substantial differences. This is
exacerbated by using different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there
was noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance) between
the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level he rides. It's more
likely due to inflation pressures and even then if he's reasonably
close between the two it's probably not very noticeable unless you get
up to an appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will vary widely
from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother.--- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
On Wed Jan 14 07:33:53 2026 AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better
rhan my racing
bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags
some which
completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is
very stable and
wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so
much room around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn
Paramount up to get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer
kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG
frames were tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm
sure Andrew can elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have
your own chasing tool? Sure the brand name ones are pricy
but the off-brands are in the $100 range and do just as good
a job. For someone making $12K a month on his investments
I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool shouldn't be
a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus
the some tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it
does to be fair
but it?s fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm
and moved from
tough training tyres to ?puncture proof? ones, and month
or so back got
some mudguards fitted. As while I don?t aim to ride in the
rain with that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route
isn?t one that
pushes braking much as it?s rim brakes so its
effectiveness does drop off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different
manufacturers can vary greatly, and even the same width of
different models from the same manufacturer can show
substantial differences. This is exacerbated by using
different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there was
noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance)
between the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level
he rides. It's more likely due to inflation pressures and
even then if he's reasonably close between the two it's
probably not very noticeable unless you get up to an
appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will
vary widely from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother. Aside from a general quality
common to that whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge,
straight or butted tube, geometry, jointing all contribute
or detract from 'stiffness' as perceived by one rider or
another. It's mostly meaningless.
And yes to 28mm vs 30mm. Road surface and inflation
variables dwarf that section difference.
The bike is steel and even among the Columbus series, riders blind tested ALL chose Thron tubing which was one of Columbuses lower grade steels. They ALL found that it was of sufficient strength not to effect handling and rode better than even TSX.
And 30 mm tires acrually ride significantly better than 28's. Though I can't tell much difference between a 30 and 32. But in favor of your statement - 28's ride good enough.
On Wed Jan 14 19:15:21 2026 zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 8:33 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:27 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 1/14/2026 5:04 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Took the Marin out fot a ride and it rides by far better rhan my racing >>>>>> bikes. The 30 mm front wheel tyre is too large and drags some which >>>>>> completely wore me out in just 25 miles but the bike is very stable and >>>>>> wanders very little.
I just changed the front tire to a 28 and there is so much room
around it
that it is amazing that the the 30 didn't properly fit.
Tomorrow after my ride I have to take the Schwinn Paramount up to
get the
BB threads cleaned out. The aluminum is a rather softer kind.
"the softer kind" ? Unless I'm mistaken all Paramount PDG frames were
tempered 6061, which is in fact quite hard. I'm sure Andrew can
elaborate. Besides that, why don't you have your own chasing tool?
Sure the brand name ones are pricy but the off-brands are in the $100
range and do just as good a job. For someone making $12K a month on
his investments I'd think a few hundred bucks for a decent tool
shouldn't be a challenge.
Ratter depends on what the frame is designed, to fit. Plus the some
tyres
blow up larger or smaller than claimed.
My cheap roadie commuter is supposed to take 32mm which it does to be >>>>> fair
but it?s fag paper tight, and I have dropped down to 28mm and moved from >>>>> tough training tyres to ?puncture proof? ones, and month or so back got >>>>> some mudguards fitted. As while I don?t aim to ride in the rain with >>>>> that
bike, does happen plus just wet roads. Luckily the route isn?t one that >>>>> pushes braking much as it?s rim brakes so its effectiveness does drop >>>>> off
in such conditions.
That's because the same tire width from different manufacturers can
vary greatly, and even the same width of different models from the
same manufacturer can show substantial differences. This is
exacerbated by using different rim widths. As for tommy claiming there >>>> was noticeable 'drag' (I'm sure he meant rolling resistance) between
the 30 and the 28....ahhhhhh, no. Not at the level he rides. It's more >>>> likely due to inflation pressures and even then if he's reasonably
close between the two it's probably not very noticeable unless you get >>>> up to an appreciable speed. The most likely issue that tired him out
was just his physical status that day - at his age it will vary widely >>>> from day to day.
Yes, but I didn't bother. Aside from a general quality common to that
whole aluminum series, diameter, gauge, straight or butted tube,
geometry, jointing all contribute or detract from 'stiffness' as
perceived by one rider or another. It's mostly meaningless.
I think he was referring to the hardness as in rockwell scale. I was
thinking you - as someone who has undoubtedly chased literally hundreds
of bottom brackets on the pantheon of frames materials - might be able
to comment on whether the alloy used for the aluminum Schwinn Paramounts
is soft compared to alloys used by other frame builders.
I suppose I'm getting lost in the conversation. The Marin San Marino is steel.The Schwinn 564 Paramount is aluminum but quite soft on the Rockwell scale. In order to use smaller diameter downtubes and retain stiffness they started using 6061 aircraft grade aluminum which is a great deal harder metal.
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