On 1/10/2026 5:41 PM, cyclintom wrote:
Since the first of the year we had continuous rain. Since the rain
ended last Monday, I've managed to get in 63 miles despite Thursday
being a three flat day that forced me to turn around getting in only
10 miles. I discovered that I hadn't changed the rear tire that I
bought for the Basso. Today everything worked perfectly and very much
to my surprise despite the quite cold weather all of the puddles on
our route were conpletely dried up except one route along a public
road but the puddloes are easily avoided.
So tomorrow I will test the Marin out. And Monday I will work some
more on my Schwinn Paramount. Today, I felt, was slow but my Garmin
readings showed lower max and average heart rate and higher average
speed than from the first two rides after two weeks of rain.
Andrew. A friend gave me a Specialized Power saddle and S-works seat
post which I cut down to fit the 25" frame as you suggested (abgout
125 mm seatpost). I had a seat post clamp laying around that worked
perfectly
The reach of the Schwinn was rqather shorter than I expected and a
"normal" length stem looks like it will work fine. I installed Record
11 speed levers on the bar but haven't installed the bar yet because I
need the BB threads cleaned out and I d0on't want the bar slapping
back and forth as I move the bike down to the shop.
When I wax building my BMC it has a tapered hheadset so first I bought
an Opera fork but it looked terrible on the BMC so I got a EC90 fork
that was matching colors. After I move the DeRosa's and my Moser EM82
I will put the BMC and the Ridley Helium Di2 up for sale. My
Specislized Allez is still on Craigslist but no inquiries. If the
Marin and the Schwinn turn out OK I might strip the parts off of the
Colnago X Lite.
It is a good riding bike but it is a real racer and turns altogether
too fast for me. With my poor balance I do need a steadier bike. Oddly
enough, the Time rides very well. The Look's I had were too fast
handling too.
The DeRosa's handle very well but I have too many bikes and really
have to clear out the garage and if I'm going to keep something it
will be metal (except the Time in case of threatening weather.)
When we write a bike build sheet for a mechanic, it includes center of
post to center of bars (horizontal dimension) and handlebar to floor (vertical dimension).-a Mechanic chooses appropriate stem to achieve customer's position.
You might (as I have suggested here before) measure, record and keep
those dimensions for your various bicycles with comments so you can predictably and dependably set up bicycles which suit you and your
riding style.
Incremental small personal or temporary adjustments (seat height, saddle fore-aft, saddle inclination, handlebar inclination) are easily made within-a that general dimension as often as you like, even by the side of the road, without changing parts.
On 1/11/2026 10:36 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/10/2026 5:41 PM, cyclintom wrote:
Since the first of the year we had continuous rain. Since
the rain ended last Monday, I've managed to get in 63
miles despite Thursday being a three flat day that forced
me to turn around getting in only 10 miles. I discovered
that I hadn't changed the rear tire that I bought for the
Basso. Today everything worked perfectly and very much to
my surprise despite the quite cold weather all of the
puddles on our route were conpletely dried up except one
route along a public road but the puddloes are easily
avoided.
So tomorrow I will test the Marin out. And Monday I will
work some more on my Schwinn Paramount. Today, I felt,
was slow but my Garmin readings showed lower max and
average heart rate and higher average speed than from the
first two rides after two weeks of rain.
Andrew. A friend gave me a Specialized Power saddle and
S-works seat post which I cut down to fit the 25" frame
as you suggested (abgout 125 mm seatpost). I had a seat
post clamp laying around that worked perfectly
The reach of the Schwinn was rqather shorter than I
expected and a "normal" length stem looks like it will
work fine. I installed Record 11 speed levers on the bar
but haven't installed the bar yet because I need the BB
threads cleaned out and I d0on't want the bar slapping
back and forth as I move the bike down to the shop.
When I wax building my BMC it has a tapered hheadset so
first I bought an Opera fork but it looked terrible on
the BMC so I got a EC90 fork that was matching colors.
After I move the DeRosa's and my Moser EM82 I will put
the BMC and the Ridley Helium Di2 up for sale. My
Specislized Allez is still on Craigslist but no
inquiries. If the Marin and the Schwinn turn out OK I
might strip the parts off of the Colnago X Lite.
It is a good riding bike but it is a real racer and turns
altogether too fast for me. With my poor balance I do
need a steadier bike. Oddly enough, the Time rides very
well. The Look's I had were too fast handling too.
The DeRosa's handle very well but I have too many bikes
and really have to clear out the garage and if I'm going
to keep something it will be metal (except the Time in
case of threatening weather.)
When we write a bike build sheet for a mechanic, it
includes center of post to center of bars (horizontal
dimension) and handlebar to floor (vertical dimension).
Mechanic chooses appropriate stem to achieve customer's
position.
You might (as I have suggested here before) measure,
record and keep those dimensions for your various bicycles
with comments so you can predictably and dependably set up
bicycles which suit you and your riding style.
I have a drawing I created many years ago with Seat top
center handlebar top reach and brake hood reach, then drop
from those two points. For confirmation there is also a
dimension from those two drop points to the front hub. Then
there is the measurement from the seat top center to the
bottom bracket spindle. From there everything is simply
minor tweaking.
Incremental small personal or temporary adjustments (seat
height, saddle fore-aft, saddle inclination, handlebar
inclination) are easily made within-a that general
dimension as often as you like, even by the side of the
road, without changing parts.
I have a drawing I created many years ago with Seat top center handlebarThat sounds like a good idea.
top reach and brake hood reach, then drop from those two points. For confirmation there is also a dimension from those two drop points to the front hub. Then there is the measurement from the seat top center to the bottom bracket spindle. From there everything is simply minor tweaking.
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