On 2025-12-12 20:12, rbowman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Dec 2025 14:44:34 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
My current car has pressure sensors on the 4 wheels. I can read the
values in the dash display. I think the sensor is in the valve, with a
battery and a radio.
Yes. My car reports low pressure by turning on a light, but not the
pressure in each tire. The wheels with the studded tires don't have
sensors so the light is on during the winter.
When you bought new tires there was always a charge for new valve stems
that I thought was a bit of a scam. The first time I bought tires for a
car with sensors I thought they wouldn't charge for new stems. No, they
charged for 'rebuilding' the sensors. I think you can replace the battery
in some, but not all, models so it still smells like a scam.
I still have not changed the rubbers on my current car. It has nearly
90000 Km, and I usually get around 95000 Km out of them. So I will find
that out soon. Within a year, probably.
On 14/12/2025 9:55 am, Carlos E.R. wrote:
On 2025-12-12 20:12, rbowman wrote:WOW!! 95,000 Km!! I thought I was doing well getting 60,000 - 65,000 out
On Fri, 12 Dec 2025 14:44:34 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
My current car has pressure sensors on the 4 wheels. I can read the
values in the dash display. I think the sensor is in the valve, with a >>>> battery and a radio.
Yes. My car reports low pressure by turning on a light, but not the
pressure in each tire. The wheels with the studded tires don't have
sensors so the light is on during the winter.
When you bought new tires there was always a charge for new valve stems
that I thought was a bit of a scam. The first time I bought tires for a
car with sensors I thought they wouldn't charge for new stems. No, they
charged for 'rebuilding' the sensors. I think you can replace the
battery
in some, but not all, models so it still smells like a scam.
I still have not changed the rubbers on my current car. It has nearly
90000 Km, and I usually get around 95000 Km out of them. So I will
find that out soon. Within a year, probably.
of a set of tyres on my Mazda 3!!
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, ? of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles. >When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles. When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles.
When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
On 19 Dec 2025 03:24:33 GMT, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, ? of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles.
When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
90,000 km is only a little over 55,000 miles. I got 85,000 miles from
the factory stock tires on my car, and I replaced those with tires that
had an 80,000 mile warranty. I'm almost certain I'll be selling that car
long before I can wear out the current set.
On my pickup, I replaced the factory tires at 26,000 miles, but I
replaced them because they were 10 years old, not because the tread was
worn.
On 19/12/2025 2:24 pm, rbowman wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:Back in the day, didn't they also suggest changing sides, i.e. LF - RR,
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles.
When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
RR - LF, RF - LR, LR - RF??
And, some how, you were supposed to throw the Spare Tyre into the mix as well ....
but now that you might not actually get a Spare Tyre, just an--
Emergency Tyre...... ??
We're not allowed to drive on steel studs, and this advert does not say
what the studs are made of. Some of our tires are augmented with walnut shells, which is easier on the road surface. Even some of the winter
bicycle tires here, have walnut shells or similar "soft" materials. I
haven't checked but I doubt a steel stud on a bicycle tire is really a
good idea (engineering issue).
https://www.amazon.ca/Nokian-Hakkapeliitta-Studded-205-55R16/dp/B09BF64WZZ
Back in the day, didn't they also suggest changing sides, i.e. LF - RR,
RR - LF, RF - LR, LR - RF??
And, some how, you were supposed to throw the Spare Tyre into the mix as
well .... but now that you might not actually get a Spare Tyre, just an Emergency Tyre...... ??
Some rubber last long. This is an Opel Corsa with the factory
Continental rubbers.
https://www.amazon.ca/Nokian-Hakkapeliitta-Studded-205-55R16/dp/B09BF64WZZ
I had a set of Nokians that I really liked. The car they were on was taken out by a snowplow in March so I left them on the wreck and kept the summer set. I should have changed them out. I couldn't find Nokians when I
replaced them.
On Fri, 19 Dec 2025 15:46:55 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
Some rubber last long. This is an Opel Corsa with the factory
Continental rubbers.
The original rear tire on my Sportster lasted close to 20,000 miles. It
was a Dunlop tire often referred to by Sportster riders as Dunrocks. Great tread life, not so great traction. I replaced them with Bridgestone Spitfires. I only got 8,000 miles on the rear but the miles were more
fun :)
In the US manufacturers game the EPA fleet mileage requirements by
installing low rolling resistance tires. You can get LRR tires with
compounds that increase tire life but they cost more. The Yaris is
Toyota's cheapest model so the OEM tires aren't premium. Toyota must have gotten a good deal because the first one had Bridgestone Potenzas which
are usually sold as a performance tire. They are not optimized for long
life.
On Fri, 19 Dec 2025 05:06:24 -0500, Paul wrote:
We're not allowed to drive on steel studs, and this advert does not say
what the studs are made of. Some of our tires are augmented with walnut
shells, which is easier on the road surface. Even some of the winter
bicycle tires here, have walnut shells or similar "soft" materials. I
haven't checked but I doubt a steel stud on a bicycle tire is really a
good idea (engineering issue).
We can use studs from October 1 - May 31.. I put them on at the end of November and take them off in the spring depending on the conditions but
it's never been that late, usually sometime in March.
My late cousin (Canadian) put thumbtack inside the tire, flat side
touching the tube, and points peeking out through the tire, on a
bicycle, and used that to go to work in winter. Parking was terrible in
the city, he said.
On 19/12/2025 2:24 pm, rbowman wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:Back in the day, didn't they also suggest changing sides, i.e. LF - RR,
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,
at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles.
When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
RR - LF, RF - LR, LR - RF??
And, some how, you were supposed to throw the Spare Tyre into the mix as well .... but now that you might not actually get a Spare Tyre, just an Emergency Tyre...... ??
On 2025-12-19 07:55, Char Jackson wrote:
On 19 Dec 2025 03:24:33 GMT, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front, >>>> at about 30000 Km, ? of life. The front wheels get more worn out than
the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles. >>> When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires >>> and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
90,000 km is only a little over 55,000 miles. I got 85,000 miles from
the factory stock tires on my car, and I replaced those with tires that
had an 80,000 mile warranty. I'm almost certain I'll be selling that car
long before I can wear out the current set.
On my pickup, I replaced the factory tires at 26,000 miles, but I
replaced them because they were 10 years old, not because the tread was
worn.
Some rubber last long. This is an Opel Corsa with the factory
Continental rubbers.
On 12/19/25 09:46, Carlos E.R. wrote:
On 2025-12-19 07:55, Char Jackson wrote:
On 19 Dec 2025 03:24:33 GMT, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front, >>>>> at about 30000 Km, ? of life. The front wheels get more worn out than >>>>> the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000
miles.
When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR
tires
and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
90,000 km is only a little over 55,000 miles. I got 85,000 miles from
the factory stock tires on my car, and I replaced those with tires that
had an 80,000 mile warranty. I'm almost certain I'll be selling that car >>> long before I can wear out the current set.
On my pickup, I replaced the factory tires at 26,000 miles, but I
replaced them because they were 10 years old, not because the tread was
worn.
Some rubber last long. This is an Opel Corsa with the factory
Continental rubbers.
-a Rubber, even quality rubber, EVENTUALLY goes stiff
-a and rots. It's chemistry.
-a Spend just a LITTLE more money on 'quality' and
-a you buy a LOT more slack.
On 12/19/25 06:48, Daniel70 wrote:
On 19/12/2025 2:24 pm, rbowman wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:Back in the day, didn't they also suggest changing sides, i.e. LF -
I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front, >>>> at about 30000 Km, rao of life. The front wheels get more worn out than >>>> the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The
mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving
The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles. >>> When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires >>> and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I
still don't get 90k km.
RR, RR - LF, RF - LR, LR - RF??
And, some how, you were supposed to throw the Spare Tyre into the mix
as well .... but now that you might not actually get a Spare Tyre,
just an Emergency Tyre...... ??
-a I don't think you can get anything ELSE these days
-a in USA. It's ALWAYS that hard little sub-tire in
-a a compartment in the trunk/boot. It's so stiff you
-a can't even tell if it's got pressure ... and really
-a that BARELY matters. They OUGHT to just make them
-a full of urea foam ... always 'inflated'.
-a A *few* SUVs/Jeeps have a special rack on the back
-a that'll fit FULL-sized spares. Alas, so exposed,
-a SOME punk will let out all the air or slash it-a :-)
-a HAVE seen a very few mounts with a fiberglass/plastic
-a cover OVER the tire. Good idea - but does speak about
-a 'human nature' eh ?
-a As for "rotating" ... yes, it IS the ideal thing.
-a However FEW do it ... too much expense or trouble.
-a In USA tires are not THAT damned expensive so, well,
-a you just wait until they show bald spots and then
-a replace with new.
-a Any good tire you can get in USA - Goodyear, Michelin,
-a Firestone, Cooper etc - can last a LONG LONG time.
-a Some people DO drive 100,000+ a year, but MOST don't
-a come near that. I'm old now, I go to the food and
-a convenience store. The tires will ROT before I
-a wear them out. Came into a car my mother owned when
-a she got too old/blind to drive. The (original) tires
-a were actually rotting because she never WENT more
-a than a few miles once a week.
About then or earlier I bough some good boots for mountain sports. I
think I actually used them 4 times over the years, but the last time,
the sole got unglued from the rest of the boot, on both boots, like a
gaping mouth, at the start of the trek. The boots were not even ten
years old, maybe 6. The rubber was still soft, but the boots were
garbage material. Fault of the glue, or one intermediate layer that decomposed.
For some reason, I was using at my fifties some boots that were bought
when I was a teenager. Size was correct, soles had their crests and valleys, not much used, but little actual grip. I finally threw them away.
About then or earlier I bough some good boots for mountain sports. I think
I actually used them 4 times over the years, but the last time, the sole
got unglued from the rest of the boot, on both boots, like a gaping mouth,
at the start of the trek. The boots were not even ten years old, maybe 6. The rubber was still soft, but the boots were garbage material. Fault of
the glue, or one intermediate layer that decomposed.
On Sat, 12/20/2025 7:32 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
For some reason, I was using at my fifties some boots that were bought
when I was a teenager. Size was correct, soles had their crests and valleys,
not much used, but little actual grip. I finally threw them away.
About then or earlier I bough some good boots for mountain sports. I think >> I actually used them 4 times over the years, but the last time, the sole
got unglued from the rest of the boot, on both boots, like a gaping mouth, >> at the start of the trek. The boots were not even ten years old, maybe 6. >> The rubber was still soft, but the boots were garbage material. Fault of
the glue, or one intermediate layer that decomposed.
These things don't happen by accident by the way. It's "designed" to
fail at four years. Someone is crass enough, to figure out the
interval at which "consumers will accept a defect".
I don't think you can get anything ELSE these days in USA. It's
ALWAYS that hard little sub-tire in a compartment in the trunk/boot.
It's so stiff you can't even tell if it's got pressure ... and really
that BARELY matters. They OUGHT to just make them full of urea foam
... always 'inflated'.
My current car doesn't even have one. It has a can of some liquid which
you put inside the deflated tire with the air pump. I got a screw into
my front left wheel (I did not see it), tried the kit, the wheel
deflated again in half an hour. In the end I called the RACE (Royal Automobile Club of Spain). A crane came, the chap found the screw,
marked the spot, removed it, and pushed with an awl a thread of soft
rubber into the hole. That allowed me to complete the trip, and had the
wheel properly repaired.
About then or earlier I bough some good boots for mountain sports. I
think I actually used them 4 times over the years, but the last time,
the sole got unglued from the rest of the boot, on both boots, like a
gaping mouth, at the start of the trek. The boots were not even ten
years old, maybe 6. The rubber was still soft, but the boots were
garbage material. Fault of the glue, or one intermediate layer that decomposed.
Back in the '60s I heard someone mention that he had bought Timex
watches for each of his three sons. All three lasted the 12-month
warranty period, but not one made it to 13 months. Looks like the
engineers got that one pretty well figured out.
Like you, it was an old pair of boots, which hadn't be used for many
years (while the kids were growing up) and yes, they also were 'cheap'
boots.
On Sat, 20 Dec 2025 20:45:45 GMT, Charlie Gibbs wrote:
Back in the '60s I heard someone mention that he had bought Timex
watches for each of his three sons. All three lasted the 12-month
warranty period, but not one made it to 13 months. Looks like the
engineers got that one pretty well figured out.
I've been wearing a fitness tracker for a couple of years but my old Timex Expedition took a licking and kept on ticking. It's a little scarred but it's still keeping time. No complaints. The Zulu band is bulletproof too.
On Sat, 20 Dec 2025 20:45:45 GMT, Charlie Gibbs wrote:
Back in the '60s I heard someone mention that he had bought Timex
watches for each of his three sons. All three lasted the 12-month
warranty period, but not one made it to 13 months. Looks like the
engineers got that one pretty well figured out.
I've been wearing a fitness tracker for a couple of years but my old Timex Expedition took a licking and kept on ticking. It's a little scarred but it's still keeping time. No complaints. The Zulu band is bulletproof too.
rbowman <bowman@montana.com> writes:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2025 20:45:45 GMT, Charlie Gibbs wrote:I have a Casio digital watch that I don't even know how old it is, but
Back in the '60s I heard someone mention that he had bought Timex
watches for each of his three sons. All three lasted the 12-month
warranty period, but not one made it to 13 months. Looks like the
engineers got that one pretty well figured out.
I've been wearing a fitness tracker for a couple of years but my old Timex >> Expedition took a licking and kept on ticking. It's a little scarred but
it's still keeping time. No complaints. The Zulu band is bulletproof too. >>
it's at least 45-50 years at a guess. The buttons have gotten stiff over
the years, so the functions like stopwatch and lap timer don't work well
any more, but it does just exactly what I need from a quick glance at my wrist: it tells me the day of the week, the date, and time of day.
And I have only had to replace the battery about 4 times in all those
years.
On Sat, 20 Dec 2025 13:32:53 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:
About then or earlier I bough some good boots for mountain sports. I
think I actually used them 4 times over the years, but the last time,
the sole got unglued from the rest of the boot, on both boots, like a
gaping mouth, at the start of the trek. The boots were not even ten
years old, maybe 6. The rubber was still soft, but the boots were
garbage material. Fault of the glue, or one intermediate layer that
decomposed.
I have a pair of Limmer boots. They aren't cheap but they've went from
nailed to glued soles. A complaint of the nailed soles was heat transfer
in the winter. I went hiking in Arizona on a nice spring day with the
temps in the 90's and the trail was on black volcanic rock that really
soaked up the sun. The glue melted. I wasn't happy duct taping an
expensive pair of boots and then doing a more permanent fix with Shoe Goo.
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