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Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
If it has become damp it needs to be discarded anyway.--
On 29/08/2025 09:14, AnthonyL wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
If the roof is leaking it may not be where the plasterboard is
discoloured. Possibly better to check from the roof side first.
If it's a lack of insulation it could be condensation forming on a cold >spot.
Unlikely a plumber is the correct tradesperson unless you suspect
leaking pipework above the ceiling. A plumber is unlikely to repair >plasterboard work.
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it. If it has become damp it needs to be discarded anyway.
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or >multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it. If it has become damp it needs to be discarded anyway.
Maybe an excuse to buy a multi-tool :)
Any recommendations - it will only get occasional use.
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and
shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
If it has become damp it needs to be discarded anyway.
A stanley knife is better, the multi tool will generate a lot of dust,
knife is much less messy.
If you want a multi-tool I like my Parkside cordless one.
On Fri, 29 Aug 2025 10:36:23 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:
On 29/08/2025 09:14, AnthonyL wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
If the roof is leaking it may not be where the plasterboard is
discoloured. Possibly better to check from the roof side first.
If it's a lack of insulation it could be condensation forming on a cold
spot.
Unlikely a plumber is the correct tradesperson unless you suspect
leaking pipework above the ceiling. A plumber is unlikely to repair
plasterboard work.
It is almost certainly a seeping joint, probably an elbow joint,
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it. If it has become damp it needs to be discarded anyway.
Maybe an excuse to buy a multi-tool :)
Any recommendations - it will only get occasional use.
On 29/08/2025 12:12, AnthonyL wrote:
On Fri, 29 Aug 2025 10:36:23 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:
On 29/08/2025 09:14, AnthonyL wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension.-a A corner of the plasterboard >>>> ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I >>>> can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able >>>> to do all plasterboard work as well?
If the roof is leaking it may not be where the plasterboard is
discoloured.-a Possibly better to check from the roof side first.
If it's a lack of insulation it could be condensation forming on a cold
spot.
Unlikely a plumber is the correct tradesperson unless you suspect
leaking pipework above the ceiling. A plumber is unlikely to repair
plasterboard work.
It is almost certainly a seeping joint, probably an elbow joint,
If it's "above the shower" - as mentioned in the Subject field, I would
at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower being the cause.-a (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation above that bit
of the plasterboard.)>
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and
shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
On 29/08/2025 11:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and
shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface
and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
Often not as simple as that. The edges of what is left in the ceiling
and the edges of the patch have to be fixed to something solid. This may involve adding battens in the ceiling to support the exposed edges. The
edge of the exiting ceiling and the edge of the patch are screwed into
the same batten(s).-a Any plasterboard patch that could move relative to
the surrounding plasterboard needs scrim tape over the join or the
filled crack is likely to re-appear shortly after skimming. You should
not apply skim tape if the patch is below the rest of the ceiling - pre
fill any disparity in surface levels before applying scrim tape.
Use plasterboard screws and not nails.
If trying to detect a leaking pipe joint first thoroughly dry it off and then wrap it in tissue paper (soft toilet roll paper) to find where it
first gets wet. This method is good where a weeping connection possibly
only results in one drip of water every half hour.
On 29/08/2025 20:48, alan_m wrote:
On 29/08/2025 11:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and
shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface
and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
Often not as simple as that. The edges of what is left in the ceiling
and the edges of the patch have to be fixed to something solid. This
may involve adding battens in the ceiling to support the exposed
edges. The edge of the exiting ceiling and the edge of the patch are
screwed into the same batten(s).-a Any plasterboard patch that could
move relative to the surrounding plasterboard needs scrim tape over
the join or the filled crack is likely to re-appear shortly after
skimming. You should not apply skim tape if the patch is below the
rest of the ceiling - pre fill any disparity in surface levels before
applying scrim tape.
Use plasterboard screws and not nails.
If trying to detect a leaking pipe joint first thoroughly dry it off
and then wrap it in tissue paper (soft toilet roll paper) to find
where it first gets wet. This method is good where a weeping
connection possibly only results in one drip of water every half hour.
Golly., Why make such work for yourself?
Tape the piece back with masking tape and tack in place with something
fast setting.-a Or wedge in place with some wedges and then tack using plaster.
Once that's gone off remove temporary supports and skim the lot.
Sand and paint
On 30/08/2025 07:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 20:48, alan_m wrote:
On 29/08/2025 11:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and >>>> shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface
and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
Often not as simple as that. The edges of what is left in the ceiling
and the edges of the patch have to be fixed to something solid. This
may involve adding battens in the ceiling to support the exposed
edges. The edge of the exiting ceiling and the edge of the patch are
screwed into the same batten(s).-a Any plasterboard patch that could
move relative to the surrounding plasterboard needs scrim tape over
the join or the filled crack is likely to re-appear shortly after
skimming. You should not apply skim tape if the patch is below the
rest of the ceiling - pre fill any disparity in surface levels before
applying scrim tape.
Use plasterboard screws and not nails.
If trying to detect a leaking pipe joint first thoroughly dry it off
and then wrap it in tissue paper (soft toilet roll paper) to find
where it first gets wet. This method is good where a weeping
connection possibly only results in one drip of water every half hour.
Golly., Why make such work for yourself?
Tape the piece back with masking tape and tack in place with something
fast setting.-a Or wedge in place with some wedges and then tack using
plaster.
Once that's gone off remove temporary supports and skim the lot.
Sand and paint
That may work for a very small piece of plasterboard patch but unlikely
to work well on anything larger.-a How much is the OP thinking of removing?-a When I had a 'small' leak I found I had to remove a 2x3 ft section of board.
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
On 30/08/2025 08:50, alan_m wrote:
On 30/08/2025 07:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote:I had a major leak. I removed around 1ft square No joists there - the
On 29/08/2025 20:48, alan_m wrote:
On 29/08/2025 11:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to >>>>>> remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and >>>>> shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface >>>>> and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
Often not as simple as that. The edges of what is left in the ceiling
and the edges of the patch have to be fixed to something solid. This
may involve adding battens in the ceiling to support the exposed
edges. The edge of the exiting ceiling and the edge of the patch are
screwed into the same batten(s). Any plasterboard patch that could
move relative to the surrounding plasterboard needs scrim tape over
the join or the filled crack is likely to re-appear shortly after
skimming. You should not apply skim tape if the patch is below the
rest of the ceiling - pre fill any disparity in surface levels before
applying scrim tape.
Use plasterboard screws and not nails.
If trying to detect a leaking pipe joint first thoroughly dry it off
and then wrap it in tissue paper (soft toilet roll paper) to find
where it first gets wet. This method is good where a weeping
connection possibly only results in one drip of water every half hour. >>>>
Golly., Why make such work for yourself?
Tape the piece back with masking tape and tack in place with something
fast setting. Or wedge in place with some wedges and then tack using
plaster.
Once that's gone off remove temporary supports and skim the lot.
Sand and paint
That may work for a very small piece of plasterboard patch but unlikely
to work well on anything larger. How much is the OP thinking of
removing? When I had a 'small' leak I found I had to remove a 2x3 ft
section of board.
water of course was in fact held there BY the joists
I just bodged it all back in place and skimmed it.
Once you accept that you are going to have to skim and possibly sand, it doesn't matter how neat or otherwise the fix is.
On 30/08/2025 07:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 20:48, alan_m wrote:
On 29/08/2025 11:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 29/08/2025 10:36, alan_m wrote:
You can cut out a section of plasterboard with a Stanley knife or
multi-tool but you will need to destroy the section you cut out to
remove it.
Not necessarily: I keep those sections as they are the perfect size and >>>> shape to refill the hole later on.
The secret is to mount them back a little below the original surface
and skim over, And angled cut makes this a bit easier
Often not as simple as that. The edges of what is left in the ceiling
and the edges of the patch have to be fixed to something solid. This
may involve adding battens in the ceiling to support the exposed
edges. The edge of the exiting ceiling and the edge of the patch are
screwed into the same batten(s).-a Any plasterboard patch that could
move relative to the surrounding plasterboard needs scrim tape over
the join or the filled crack is likely to re-appear shortly after
skimming. You should not apply skim tape if the patch is below the
rest of the ceiling - pre fill any disparity in surface levels before
applying scrim tape.
Use plasterboard screws and not nails.
If trying to detect a leaking pipe joint first thoroughly dry it off
and then wrap it in tissue paper (soft toilet roll paper) to find
where it first gets wet. This method is good where a weeping
connection possibly only results in one drip of water every half hour.
Golly., Why make such work for yourself?
Tape the piece back with masking tape and tack in place with something
fast setting.-a Or wedge in place with some wedges and then tack using
plaster.
Once that's gone off remove temporary supports and skim the lot.
Sand and paint
That may work for a very small piece of plasterboard patch but unlikely
to work well on anything larger. How much is the OP thinking of
removing? When I had a 'small' leak I found I had to remove a 2x3 ft >section of board.
AnthonyL <nospam@please.invalid> wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
I think it unlikely to be a leaking pipe as most builders avoid putting >pipework in flat roofs for obvious reasons. It may also not be a problem
with the roof itself but an inspection of the outside should reveal any >suspect areas. As mentioned already condensation could be the problem >especially if it is what is called a cold roof that has been insulated. In >such a case there should be an air gap between the insulation and the roof >deck and ventilation provided at the fascia boards. If condensation has >penetrated the PB and is unventilated and has collected in the insulation >this will increase the cold bridging making the problem greater and may
lead to damage to the decking material. I would remove the PB and give it a >good inspection. If you are concerned about replacing the PB and having it >skimmed there are plenty of alternatives such as PVC panels. I have these
on our shower room ceiling these come as planks that slot together and can >either be directly glued to the ceiling or attached to a framework as is in >my case.
On 29/08/2025 19:56, Sam Plusnet wrote:
On 29/08/2025 12:12, AnthonyL wrote:
On Fri, 29 Aug 2025 10:36:23 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:
On 29/08/2025 09:14, AnthonyL wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension.-a A corner of the plasterboard >>>>> ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I >>>>> can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able >>>>> to do all plasterboard work as well?
If the roof is leaking it may not be where the plasterboard is
discoloured.-a Possibly better to check from the roof side first.
If it's a lack of insulation it could be condensation forming on a cold >>>> spot.
Unlikely a plumber is the correct tradesperson unless you suspect
leaking pipework above the ceiling. A plumber is unlikely to repair
plasterboard work.
It is almost certainly a seeping joint, probably an elbow joint,
If it's "above the shower" - as mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower
being the cause.-a (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation
above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
<div id="editor" contenteditable="false">>> If it's "above the shower" - as mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower
being the cause. (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation
above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
If the flat roof was built as a 'warm roof' then the PB
must (=should) be foil-backed with the joints and edges
sealed to stop H20 molecules getting into the space above
the ceiling (which is sealed and without cross ventilation
from the outside).
If so, then this vapour barrier must be repaired, so
for a small area like a shower it might end up needing the
whole ceiling to be pulled down and re-done.
On 30 Aug 2025 at 17:22:07 BST, Andrew wrote:
<div id="editor" contenteditable="false">>> If it's "above the shower" - as >> mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower
being the cause. (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation
above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
If the flat roof was built as a 'warm roof' then the PB
must (=should) be foil-backed with the joints and edges
sealed to stop H20 molecules getting into the space above
the ceiling (which is sealed and without cross ventilation
from the outside).
Isn't that just going to make the matter worse - the vapour now has nowhere to
go?
Maybe look at ventilating the shower room more effectively, plus insulate and heat the shower room.
If so, then this vapour barrier must be repaired, so
for a small area like a shower it might end up needing the
whole ceiling to be pulled down and re-done.
I recently had a new roof, and for reasons I'm not entirely sure of, he decided to do it as a warm roof.
Seemed reasonably effective last winter - but then there's only 50mm of PIR. And looking through a thermal camera, lots of cold(er) spots inside - corners,
edges, and rafters especially.
So I'm looking to insulate the roof area properly - there's a large attic room
and toilet up there too. Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs, that takes into account ventilation?
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 30 Aug 2025 at 17:22:07 BST, Andrew wrote:
<div id="editor" contenteditable="false">>> If it's "above the shower" - as >>> mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower >>>>> being the cause. (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation
above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
If the flat roof was built as a 'warm roof' then the PB
must (=should) be foil-backed with the joints and edges
sealed to stop H20 molecules getting into the space above
the ceiling (which is sealed and without cross ventilation
from the outside).
Isn't that just going to make the matter worse - the vapour now has nowhere to
go?
Maybe look at ventilating the shower room more effectively, plus insulate and
heat the shower room.
If so, then this vapour barrier must be repaired, so
for a small area like a shower it might end up needing the
whole ceiling to be pulled down and re-done.
I recently had a new roof, and for reasons I'm not entirely sure of, he
decided to do it as a warm roof.
Seemed reasonably effective last winter - but then there's only 50mm of PIR. >> And looking through a thermal camera, lots of cold(er) spots inside - corners,
edges, and rafters especially.
So I'm looking to insulate the roof area properly - there's a large attic room
and toilet up there too. Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs, >> that takes into account ventilation?
The whole point of a warm roof is that it is completely sealed against moisture ingress and thus does not require ventilation.
On 31 Aug 2025 at 10:26:13 BST, Tricky Dicky wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 30 Aug 2025 at 17:22:07 BST, Andrew wrote:
<div id="editor" contenteditable="false">>> If it's "above the shower" - as
mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower >>>>>> being the cause. (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation >>>>>> above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
If the flat roof was built as a 'warm roof' then the PB
must (=should) be foil-backed with the joints and edges
sealed to stop H20 molecules getting into the space above
the ceiling (which is sealed and without cross ventilation
from the outside).
Isn't that just going to make the matter worse - the vapour now has nowhere to
go?
Maybe look at ventilating the shower room more effectively, plus insulate and
heat the shower room.
If so, then this vapour barrier must be repaired, so
for a small area like a shower it might end up needing the
whole ceiling to be pulled down and re-done.
I recently had a new roof, and for reasons I'm not entirely sure of, he
decided to do it as a warm roof.
Seemed reasonably effective last winter - but then there's only 50mm of PIR.
And looking through a thermal camera, lots of cold(er) spots inside - corners,
edges, and rafters especially.
So I'm looking to insulate the roof area properly - there's a large attic room
and toilet up there too. Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs, >>> that takes into account ventilation?
The whole point of a warm roof is that it is completely sealed against
moisture ingress and thus does not require ventilation.
No, not the roof. The room/space beneath it. Otherwise, where does the moisture from inside the building go?
Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs,you are supposed to have an air gap between the insulation and the tiles/slates that is maintained to the eaves and has exit vents at the
that takes into account ventilation?
On 31 Aug 2025 at 10:26:13 BST, Tricky Dicky wrote:
RJH <patchmoney@gmx.com> wrote:
On 30 Aug 2025 at 17:22:07 BST, Andrew wrote:
<div id="editor" contenteditable="false">>> If it's "above the shower" - as
mentioned in the Subject field, I
would at least admit the possibility of condensation from the shower >>>>>> being the cause. (Possibly aided and abetted by skimpy insulation >>>>>> above that bit of the plasterboard.)>
use foil backed plasterboard..
If the flat roof was built as a 'warm roof' then the PB
must (=should) be foil-backed with the joints and edges
sealed to stop H20 molecules getting into the space above
the ceiling (which is sealed and without cross ventilation
from the outside).
Isn't that just going to make the matter worse - the vapour now has nowhere to
go?
Maybe look at ventilating the shower room more effectively, plus insulate and
heat the shower room.
If so, then this vapour barrier must be repaired, so
for a small area like a shower it might end up needing the
whole ceiling to be pulled down and re-done.
I recently had a new roof, and for reasons I'm not entirely sure of, he
decided to do it as a warm roof.
Seemed reasonably effective last winter - but then there's only 50mm of PIR.
And looking through a thermal camera, lots of cold(er) spots inside - corners,
edges, and rafters especially.
So I'm looking to insulate the roof area properly - there's a large attic room
and toilet up there too. Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs, >>> that takes into account ventilation?
The whole point of a warm roof is that it is completely sealed against
moisture ingress and thus does not require ventilation.
No, not the roof. The room/space beneath it. Otherwise, where does the moisture from inside the building go?
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
On 31/08/2025 07:33, RJH wrote:
Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs,you are supposed to have an air gap between the insulation and the tiles/slates that is maintained to the eaves and has exit vents at the
that takes into account ventilation?
rood ridge
On Fri, 29 Aug 2025 08:14:30 GMT, nospam@please.invalid (AnthonyL)
wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard >>ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
Before you start ripping expensive holes in the ceiling, do the easy
stuff first and seriously consider condensation and lack of adequate >ventilation!
Has anyone recently started using a hotter shower, thereby generating
more steam with a resulting increase in condensation?
Is the existing
ventilation fan doing it's job properly, or has the fan speed got
reduced recently? Has the ventilation pipe got blocked in some way?
Some of these ventilation systems have a one-way shutter built into
the ducting, to stop back-draughts, which may have got stuck in the
closed or partially closed position (the shower room in my previous
property had one such; you could hear it clattering when a gale blew).
Simply accessed by removing the fan assembly (couple of
mounting-screws) to expose the shutter that fitted in the ducting
right behind the fan.
On 31/08/2025 07:33, RJH wrote:
Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs,you are supposed to have an air gap between the insulation and the tiles/slates that is maintained to the eaves and has exit vents at the
that takes into account ventilation?
rood ridge
On Sun, 31 Aug 2025 13:26:17 +0100, Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:
On Fri, 29 Aug 2025 08:14:30 GMT, nospam@please.invalid (AnthonyL)
wrote:
The shower is in a flat roof extension. A corner of the plasterboard
ceiling is showing signs of discolouration, like a damp patch.
Are there any techniques to take the (nailed in) plasterboard out so I
can check what the issue is and then put the plasterboard back
afterwards?
If I were to employ a tradesman would a plumber be expected to be able
to do all plasterboard work as well?
Before you start ripping expensive holes in the ceiling, do the easy
stuff first and seriously consider condensation and lack of adequate
ventilation!
All good points and commented on below:
Has anyone recently started using a hotter shower, thereby generating
more steam with a resulting increase in condensation?
No change, and it's been a warm summer here in the East Midlands :)
Is the existing
ventilation fan doing it's job properly, or has the fan speed got
reduced recently? Has the ventilation pipe got blocked in some way?
Some of these ventilation systems have a one-way shutter built into
the ducting, to stop back-draughts, which may have got stuck in the
closed or partially closed position (the shower room in my previous
property had one such; you could hear it clattering when a gale blew).
Simply accessed by removing the fan assembly (couple of
mounting-screws) to expose the shutter that fitted in the ducting
right behind the fan.
The shutters are on the outside and they open when the fan pressure
forces them open.
Additionally, the flat roof is a cold roof and there is adequate
ventilation.
On 31/08/2025 12:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 31/08/2025 07:33, RJH wrote:
Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs,you are supposed to have an air gap between the insulation and the
that takes into account ventilation?
tiles/slates that is maintained to the eaves and has exit vents at the
rood ridge
I thought the OP said this shower room had a flat roof,
but with all the services carried inside it (unusual).
So it *might* be a 'warm roof' (no external cross ventilation).
If it really is an old-fashioned cold roof, flat roof then
the insulation should be immediately on top of the PB but this
then means any water pipes up there need their own insulation
because the cross ventilation (if the builder bothered)
means that they are effectively sitting outside at outside air
temperatures.
Andrew <Andrew97d@btinternet.com> wrote:
On 31/08/2025 12:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 31/08/2025 07:33, RJH wrote:
Is there some sort of design guide for warm roofs,you are supposed to have an air gap between the insulation and the
that takes into account ventilation?
tiles/slates that is maintained to the eaves and has exit vents at the
rood ridge
I thought the OP said this shower room had a flat roof,
but with all the services carried inside it (unusual).
So it *might* be a 'warm roof' (no external cross ventilation).
If it really is an old-fashioned cold roof, flat roof then
the insulation should be immediately on top of the PB but this
then means any water pipes up there need their own insulation
because the cross ventilation (if the builder bothered)
means that they are effectively sitting outside at outside air
temperatures.
Some confusion has crept into this thread. The OP did say he has a flat
roof over his shower hence the discussion of warm roof and cold roof. RJH
did not specify what type of roof he had installed so I assumed we were
still talking about flat roofs. I get the impression he is talking about a pitched roof and I am assuming by calling it a warm roof his insulation has been installed between the rafters as would be the case of a pitched warm roof. Perhaps RJH could elaborate.