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Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and
again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and >>> again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running.-a This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose.-a The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external-a starter cap outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested working then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not (automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing or inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and >> again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested working then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not (automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing or inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
On 03/02/2025 19:01, N_Cook wrote:
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing
and
again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce >>>> this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested
working then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not
(automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing
or inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
My BIL has a sump pump for his basement. It deals with any water
penetrating, as well as the stuff from the toilet in the basement. It
needed replacement, but that only cost around -u70-80. Having seen that
your one costs around -u800, I can see why you are so interested in
repairing it!
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and >>>> again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce >>>> this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
They are rated for AC only, so most unlikely to be a brush motor (which
might also be too noisy in this application). If there is no visible capacitor, it could be an induction-start motor or the capacitor is
hidden in the control box.
When it starts, is there s "snick!" noise as it reaches running speed?
That would be a centrufugal starting switch throwing out - and when the
motor is switched off, as it slows down, you might hear the switch go "Snick! " again as it resets.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested working
then, but never heard to be working since.
That absolutely rules out any sort of wear-related pronlem. It would be
the sort of situation where the starting switch contacts become corroded through lack of use. A slight tap causes them to make contact and the starting current (which is usually quite large) blows some of the
corrosion away. After a few starts like this, you may find it appears
to work properly.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not
(automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing or
inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
If mild corrosion in the starting switch is the cause of the problem,
testing it, say, once every couple of months should keep it healthy. If water has penetrated the casing, you will eventually have a much bigger problem - you need to check for that with a 500v tester, just in case.
They are rated for AC only, so most unlikely to be a brush motor (which
might also be too noisy in this application). If there is no visible capacitor, it could be an induction-start motor or the capacitor is
hidden in the control box.
When it starts, is there s "snick!" noise as it reaches running speed?
That would be a centrufugal starting switch throwing out - and when the
motor is switched off, as it slows down, you might hear the switch go "Snick! " again as it resets.
On 03/02/2025 19:31, GB wrote:
On 03/02/2025 19:01, N_Cook wrote:
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no >>>>> differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float >>>>> switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing >>>>> and
again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor >>>>> brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce >>>>> this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point >>>> where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of >>>> the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running.-a This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and >>>> will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals >>>> have become loose.-a The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external-a starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested
working then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not
(automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing
or inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
My BIL has a sump pump for his basement. It deals with any water
penetrating, as well as the stuff from the toilet in the basement. It
needed replacement, but that only cost around -u70-80. Having seen that
your one costs around -u800, I can see why you are so interested in
repairing it!
We've looked into replacement rather than repair, seeing similar
solids /dirty water capable combined pump and float switch. ToolStation
and Machine Mart 70-120 squid but are trying to unravel submersible from submergible meanings as the counter staff don't know and such info not
on/in the boxes.
What was the failure process of your one?
It is protected by a RCCD/ELCB that has never tripped out over 10 years.
But when I said tapping the motor, I used an insulated stick JIC.
Next visit I'll take a plastic stethoscope to have a better listen for a cetrifugal switch, but i can see a corrossion or mechanical problem
there giving the repeatable no-go/go on tap symptom.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and
again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce
this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it--- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
On 03/02/2025 19:01, N_Cook wrote:
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no
differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float
switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing and >>>> again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor
brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce >>>> this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point
where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of
the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running.a This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and
will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals
have become loose.a The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious externala starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested working
then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not
(automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing or
inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
My BIL has a sump pump for his basement. It deals with any water >penetrating, as well as the stuff from the toilet in the basement. It
needed replacement, but that only cost around u70-80. Having seen that
your one costs around u800, I can see why you are so interested in
repairing it!
My BIL has a sump pump for his basement. It deals with any water
penetrating, as well as the stuff from the toilet in the basement. It
So your BIL has a toilet in the basement, but doesn't use a special
pump? Just a standard sump pump. Is the toilet self-macerating?
needed replacement, but that only cost around -u70-80. Having seen that
your one costs around -u800, I can see why you are so interested in
repairing it!
On 03/02/2025 19:31, GB wrote:
On 03/02/2025 19:01, N_Cook wrote:
On 03/02/2025 17:45, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Only made a preliminary check o this 1KW pump and float switch in a
sump, prior to dismantling ad exploring further.
Sump full of water but no pump action. Moving the float about made no >>>>> differece. Tapping the pump casing made the pump work until the float >>>>> switch dropped to the cut off point.
Refilling the sump and again no pump action until tapping the casing >>>>> and
again stopping properly. I cannot see what in the way of sticky motor >>>>> brush or loose/corroded contact inside the motor housing could produce >>>>> this symptom.
You haven't said what sort of motor it is, but if it is a commutator
motor with brushgear, the fault could be worn-down brushes to the point >>>> where one of them is almost-but-not-quite touching the commutator.
Tapping the motor gives some sort of contact and then the vibration of >>>> the motor allows it to touch the commutator often enough to keep it
running. This will give a fireworks display around the commutator and >>>> will do considerable damage if it continues.
If it is not a brush motor, a similar thing can happen if the terminals >>>> have become loose. The sudden shock torque as the motor starts is
enough to make contact and vibration will keep it running; then the
contact is lost again after the motor has stopped.
The first things you need to check are what type of motor it is and
whether the supply is reaching the terminals in the connection box on
the motor casing.
The pump is a JTFS Mini Micro domestic sewage pumping station,
probably JTFS190NN
No type technical details found but no obvious external starter cap
outside the motor casing or casig bulge.
The other consideration is it was installed 10 years ago, tested
working then, but never heard to be working since.
It should have worked in a flood situation last year but it did not
(automatically of its own accord that is) , no maintainece or testing
or inspection in those 10 years by the owner or anyone else.
My BIL has a sump pump for his basement. It deals with any water
penetrating, as well as the stuff from the toilet in the basement. It
needed replacement, but that only cost around -u70-80. Having seen that
your one costs around -u800, I can see why you are so interested in
repairing it!
We've looked into replacement rather than repair, seeing similar solids /dirty water capable combined pump and float switch. ToolStation and
Machine Mart 70-120 squid but are trying to unravel submersible from submergible meanings as the counter staff don't know and such info not
on/in the boxes.
What was the failure process of your one?
After a few light taps to the body, normal centrifugal switch action returned . 10 on /off cycles without any tapping, just lifting the float switch . The owner will activate via lifting the float switch once a
month from now on, hopefully will keep it free.
After a few light taps to the body, normal centrifugal switch action >returned . 10 on /off cycles without any tapping, just lifting the float >switch . The owner will activate via lifting the float switch once a
month from now on, hopefully will keep it free.
On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 08:18:21 +0000, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
After a few light taps to the body, normal centrifugal switch action
returned . 10 on /off cycles without any tapping, just lifting the float
switch . The owner will activate via lifting the float switch once a
month from now on, hopefully will keep it free.
Have the owner buy a "water alarm": small box, 9 Volt battery, beeper -- makes a
loud noise when wet. Very little money, under 10 Euros/dollars/pounds, Amazon,
eBay, Aliexpress...
Fasten it in the sump suitably -- less likely for the water to sneak up on him...
Thomas Prufer
On 25/02/2025 13:09, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 08:18:21 +0000, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
After a few light taps to the body, normal centrifugal switch action
returned . 10 on /off cycles without any tapping, just lifting the float >>> switch . The owner will activate via lifting the float switch once a
month from now on, hopefully will keep it free.
Have the owner buy a "water alarm": small box, 9 Volt battery, beeper -- makes a
loud noise when wet. Very little money, under 10 Euros/dollars/pounds, Amazon,
eBay, Aliexpress...
Fasten it in the sump suitably -- less likely for the water to sneak up on >> him...
Thomas Prufer
The problem is knowing whether the pump has actually worked unless you
are around and hear it. I came up with a simple solution to that.
A Lego brick tied to the outlet snorkel pipe with a bitofcord and the
Lego flicked down into the snorkel tube. Any pump activity would soon
chuck out the Lego
Have the owner buy a "water alarm": small box, 9 Volt battery, beeper
-- makes a loud noise when wet. Very little money, under 10 Euros/dollars/pounds, Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress...
... The owner will activate via lifting the float switch once a
month from now on, hopefully will keep it free.
On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 14:09:44 +0100, Thomas Prufer wrote:
Have the owner buy a "water alarm": small box, 9 Volt battery, beeper
-- makes a loud noise when wet. Very little money, under 10
Euros/dollars/pounds, Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress...
And I got mine at Home Depot. Inexpensive.