• What makes holes in walnut trees?

    From bp@bp@www.zefox.net to rec.gardens on Fri Jul 11 04:16:27 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    This morning I notied a couple of sap weeps on the trunk of
    a seedling walnot tree planted about fifteen years ago. It
    looks like something chewed holes in the trunk about two feet
    above the ground, leaving a residue of cuttings in the entrance
    hole and a bit of sap around it, with the excess dripping down.

    Photos are in
    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    If anybody recognizes the pattern I'd be curious to know
    what it is. The tree seems healthy, at least for now.

    If anybody has a clue what it might be please let me know.

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska

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  • From David E. Ross@nobody@nowhere.invalid to rec.gardens on Thu Jul 10 22:11:59 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    On 7/10/2025 9:16 PM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    This morning I notied a couple of sap weeps on the trunk of
    a seedling walnot tree planted about fifteen years ago. It
    looks like something chewed holes in the trunk about two feet
    above the ground, leaving a residue of cuttings in the entrance
    hole and a bit of sap around it, with the excess dripping down.

    Photos are in
    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    If anybody recognizes the pattern I'd be curious to know
    what it is. The tree seems healthy, at least for now.

    If anybody has a clue what it might be please let me know.

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska


    Is it possible both are the result of vandalism? The second photo in particular shows something resembling a cut by a pruning saw.

    I don't think the first photo is from an insect or a woodpecker. (On
    the Zelkova tree in front of my house, a woodpecker made holes that
    resembled the work of insect borers.) Also, it is too deep relative to
    its diameter for it to be from a gnawing animal.

    I would seal both holes with white glue (e.g.: Willhold, Elmer's, Glue
    Bird). Do not use pruning paint, which can cause adjacent plant tissue
    to die.
    --
    David E. Ross
    Climate: California Mediterranean, see <http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html>
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  • From Michael Uplawski@michael.uplawski@uplawski.eu to rec.gardens on Fri Jul 11 07:48:39 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    bp@www.zefox.net wrote in rec.gardens:

    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    Many different beetle grubs attack barks and cambium. Some do not
    even threaten the tree seriously, but most do.

    The holes look the same to me, no matter which species cause them. I
    cannot find a beetle that would have a predilection for Nut Walnuts
    other than a bork beetle rCLPytyophthorus JuglandisrCY.

    You will have to find the beetle, to know, I am afraid.

    The risk with the Pytyophthorus Juglandis is that it transports a
    fungus which destroys the tree. But there is nothing on your photos
    that could identify the grub reliably.

    Anyway. No chemical product exists which could act against an
    ongoing infestation. Usually you have to get rid of the beetle.

    At least, the grubs that destroy fruit trees, here in France, drills differently and you can even see the path that the animal takes
    under the barkrCa oftentimes terminating in a second, bigger hole,
    where the woodpecker intervened. We otherwise kill the beast by
    pushing a small twig into the canal. The grub is usually at the end.
    You see that you have killed it, when the twig is rCa humid at the
    tip.

    You could try that at the hole on your second picture. On the first,
    the grub appears to have failed to enter the bark.

    I am curious to read other opinions.

    Cheerio
    --
    "I'd trade all my tomorrows for a single yesterday."
    (Janis Joplin/Kris Kristofferson rCo Me And Bobby McGee)
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  • From songbird@songbird@anthive.com to rec.gardens on Fri Jul 11 06:26:52 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    This morning I notied a couple of sap weeps on the trunk of
    a seedling walnot tree planted about fifteen years ago. It
    looks like something chewed holes in the trunk about two feet
    above the ground, leaving a residue of cuttings in the entrance
    hole and a bit of sap around it, with the excess dripping down.

    Photos are in
    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    If anybody recognizes the pattern I'd be curious to know
    what it is. The tree seems healthy, at least for now.

    If anybody has a clue what it might be please let me know.

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska

    1st one looks like only mild damage to the bark without any
    actual bore hole. the other it looks like there is debris or
    frass from chewing indicating perhaps a bug ate inwards or
    perhaps someone was shooting a bbgun and hit your tree.
    exploring that hole might give some more information...

    IMO trees are sturdy and can recover from damage of this
    sort but if you do have an actual bug in there it would be
    probably better to make sure it is dead and gone and then
    the tree can heal over the wound.


    songbird
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  • From David E. Ross@nobody@nowhere.invalid to rec.gardens on Fri Jul 11 08:34:07 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    On 7/10/2025 10:48 PM, Michael Uplawski wrote:
    bp@www.zefox.net wrote in rec.gardens:

    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    [snipped]

    Anyway. No chemical product exists which could act against an
    ongoing infestation. Usually you have to get rid of the beetle.

    [more snipped]

    There are actually two chemical methods of eliminating borers in trees.

    One involves a drench of Imidacloprid. The amount depends on the
    diameter of the trunk at the height of your chest. The drench is
    applied in the root zone. DO NOT use Imidacloprid while the tree or any adjacent plant is blooming because it is very harmful to bees. On the
    other hand, it is harmless to birds and mammals; thus, nuts from the
    tree would still be edible.

    The other involves a small plastic capsule containing a systemic poison.
    I don't remember the name of the poison or the brand name of the
    capsule, but a comprehensive plant nursery would know of this. You
    drill a spiral of 1-inch holes about 1-inch apart twice around the trunk
    of the tree. The capsules should just fit snugly into the holes. You
    then take a hammer and nail and gently puncture each capsule. This was
    very effective in eliminating ash white-fly from my ash tree and should
    also be effective against any kind of borer. However, I do not know if resulting fruits and nuts remain edible. Again, I would not use this
    while the tree is in bloom because of bees.
    --
    David E. Ross
    <http://www.rossde.com/

    The stranger that sojourneth with you shall be
    unto you as the home-born among you, and thou shalt
    love him as thyself; for ye were strangers in the
    land of Egypt: I am the LORD your God.
    Leviticus 19:34
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  • From bp@bp@www.zefox.net to rec.gardens on Fri Jul 11 22:02:41 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    David E. Ross <nobody@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
    On 7/10/2025 10:48 PM, Michael Uplawski wrote:
    bp@www.zefox.net wrote in rec.gardens:

    http://www.zefox.net/~bp/walnut/

    [snipped]

    Anyway. No chemical product exists which could act against an
    ongoing infestation. Usually you have to get rid of the beetle.

    [more snipped]

    There are actually two chemical methods of eliminating borers in trees.

    One involves a drench of Imidacloprid. The amount depends on the
    diameter of the trunk at the height of your chest. The drench is
    applied in the root zone. DO NOT use Imidacloprid while the tree or any adjacent plant is blooming because it is very harmful to bees. On the
    other hand, it is harmless to birds and mammals; thus, nuts from the
    tree would still be edible.


    Last I heard imidocloprid has been banned in California as of this
    year (or thereabouts), at least for retail sale.

    The other involves a small plastic capsule containing a systemic poison.
    I don't remember the name of the poison or the brand name of the
    Perhaps AceCap? It's banned in California also. https://www.amleo.com/acecap-systemic-insecticide-tree-implants-50-pack/p/AC450 The capsules seem rather large, 3/8" (10 mm), so using them will do some appreciable damage. The holes looked small, less than 2 mm.

    I tried probing the holes with a wire, it went in, seemingly straight,
    about 9 or 10 millimeters and stopped firmly. If there was an egg at
    the bottom, now it's an omelete 8-) I'll certainly keep an eye out for
    more damage.

    Searching via https://ipm.ucanr.edu/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=walnut%20borers&gsc.sort= turned up three candidates, flathead borer, shothole borer and twig beetles.
    My best guess is shothole or flathead borer. All are commercial pests in California walnut groves and apparently the usual remedy is cultural: Keep trees healthy, remove damaged wood and sterilize the debris. The bugs are
    here to stay amd a chemical warfare stalemate isn't very attractive, at
    least not for an ornamental tree.

    Out of seven trees in my walnut hedge only this one seems affected. Perhaps significantly, it also has the smoothest and likely thinnest bark. If one
    tree is lost out of the seven that's acceptable attrition. Four trees,
    evenly spaced, would provide ample shade when the city trees (Pistacia chinensis) come out, and I could be dead by then 8-)

    Thanks for everybody's attention and thoughts!

    bob prohaska




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  • From Michael Uplawski@michael.uplawski@uplawski.eu to rec.gardens on Sat Jul 12 06:08:17 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    bp@www.zefox.net hat geschrieben:
    David E. Ross <nobody@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
    On 7/10/2025 10:48 PM, Michael Uplawski wrote:
    Anyway. No chemical product exists which could act against an
    ongoing infestation. Usually you have to get rid of the beetle.

    There are actually two chemical methods of eliminating borers in trees.

    I may have been quick with my writing. When I write rCLongoing
    infestationrCY I am influenced by my work in an orchard of about 7ha rCo whatever that is in imperial; let's say a big orchard of fruit
    trees. rCLA treerCY does not motivate the same reaction. But thank you
    for the information.

    I tried probing the holes with a wire, it went in, seemingly straight,
    about 9 or 10 millimeters and stopped firmly. If there was an egg at
    the bottom, now it's an omelete 8-) I'll certainly keep an eye out for
    more damage.

    Rather a grub than an egg, but this may be efficient. It is however
    best to know your enemy. There are borers (rCRdrilling equipmentrCY in
    German, darned false friends), which do not harm the tree and some
    are quite useful animals, when they are otherwise occupied.

    rCa the usual remedy is cultural: Keep
    trees healthy, remove damaged wood and sterilize the debris. The bugs are >here to stay amd a chemical warfare stalemate isn't very attractive, at
    least not for an ornamental tree.

    I do not know. If one tree is precious to me, I might try just
    anything. Walnuts are terrific.

    Cheerio

    Michael
    --
    Geh Kaffee kochen
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  • From Michael Uplawski@michael.uplawski@uplawski.eu to rec.gardens on Sat Jul 12 06:12:26 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.gardens

    Supersedes for wrong signature file.

    bp@www.zefox.net hat geschrieben:
    David E. Ross <nobody@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
    On 7/10/2025 10:48 PM, Michael Uplawski wrote:
    Anyway. No chemical product exists which could act against an
    ongoing infestation. Usually you have to get rid of the beetle.

    There are actually two chemical methods of eliminating borers in trees.

    I may have been quick with my writing. When I write rCLongoing
    infestationrCY I am influenced by my work in an orchard of about 7ha rCo whatever that is in imperial; let's say a big orchard of fruit
    trees. rCLA treerCY does not motivate the same reaction. But thank you
    for the information.

    I tried probing the holes with a wire, it went in, seemingly straight,
    about 9 or 10 millimeters and stopped firmly. If there was an egg at
    the bottom, now it's an omelete 8-) I'll certainly keep an eye out for
    more damage.

    Rather a grub than an egg, but this may be efficient. It is however
    best to know your enemy. There are borers (rCRdrilling equipmentrCY in
    German, darned false friends), which do not harm the tree and some
    are quite useful animals, when they are otherwise occupied.

    rCa the usual remedy is cultural: Keep
    trees healthy, remove damaged wood and sterilize the debris. The bugs are >here to stay amd a chemical warfare stalemate isn't very attractive, at
    least not for an ornamental tree.

    I do not know. If one tree is precious to me, I might try just
    anything. Walnuts are terrific.

    Cheerio

    Michael
    --
    Wrong computer, ignore signature
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