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"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead pots
? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older unit
I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power plug
is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and
melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean
up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it
viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of
more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
"Snag" wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead pots
? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older unit
I think because it has the cast iron base . The mica at the power plug
is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and
melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean
up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it
viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of
more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead . .
------------------------------------------- https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-lyman-model-61-pot.162691/Stratotherm crimps IIRC, I've used some for wiring in kilns with high temperature wiring. I managed to get the correct crimpers 2nd hand off
"If you have to replace any wiring in there go to an electrical supply
house and ask for stove wire, get some of the slip on insulation for
it too while you are there."
Also get nickel plated high temperature crimp connectors for the
stranded wire. Solid wire is for stationary wiring that doesn't
vibrate, stranded for anything portable.
I buy used industrial temperature controllers cheap at ham radio
(general electrical) flea markets to use as thermostat replacements
and remote thermocouple readouts for the basement wood stove and food heating on it. They aren't that expensive new either. https://www.amazon.com/SINOTIMER-Temperature-Controller-Comes-Thermocouple/dp/B0DSFRKP8G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
Look for one with type K thermocouple wire with glass or ceramic
insulation, others might not be good for 800F. If necessary the hot
section of the wire can be insulated with glass or ceramic beads, I've
used wood stove gasket cement.
PID is a sophisticated and precise control method that isn't really necessary for a lead pot. Ideally it maintains a constant temperature.
The alternative is on/off control that turns power on at a lower
temperature and off at a somewhat higher one, like a mechanical
thermostat that needs a temperature differential between On and Off to
power its snap action.
For calibration the melting point of pure lead is 621.5F, 327.5C. This
shows the effect of added tin: https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/Solder%20Alloy%20Melting%20Temperature.pdf
-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead
pots ? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older unit I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power plug is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats
and melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to
clean up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to
make it viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls
to friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10ciorg$265gj$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/13/2025 5:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead pots >> ? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older unit
I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power plug
is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and
melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean
up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it
viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of
more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
-a I cleared the outlet with a wire and let all the lead run out . It
drips because apparently there's a bit of debris in the outlet . From
the article you cited this is not uncommon , just annoying . I'll pull
the rod in a day or two and clean it out along with wire brushing the
whole pot . I think this is the first time this thing has melted lead in quite a while ...
--
Snag
-a I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
------------------------------------------- https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-lyman-model-61-pot.162691/
"If you have to replace any wiring in there go to an electrical supply
house and ask for stove wire, get some of the slip on insulation for it
too while you are there."
Also get nickel plated high temperature crimp connectors for the
stranded wire. Solid wire is for stationary wiring that doesn't vibrate, stranded for anything portable.
I buy used industrial temperature controllers cheap at ham radio
(general electrical) flea markets to use as thermostat replacements and remote thermocouple readouts for the basement wood stove and food
heating on it. They aren't that expensive new either. https://www.amazon.com/SINOTIMER-Temperature-Controller-Comes- Thermocouple/dp/B0DSFRKP8G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
Look for one with type K thermocouple wire with glass or ceramic
insulation, others might not be good for 800F. If necessary the hot
section of the wire can be insulated with glass or ceramic beads, I've
used wood stove gasket cement.
PID is a sophisticated and precise control method that isn't really necessary for a lead pot. Ideally it maintains a constant temperature.
The alternative is on/off control that turns power on at a lower
temperature and off at a somewhat higher one, like a mechanical
thermostat that needs a temperature differential between On and Off to
power its snap action.
For calibration the melting point of pure lead is 621.5F, 327.5C. This
shows the effect of added tin: https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/ Solder%20Alloy%20Melting%20Temperature.pdf
On 10/13/2025 7:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10ciorg$265gj$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/13/2025 5:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead pots >>> ? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older unit >>> I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power plug >>> is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and
melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean
up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it
viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of
more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
-a-a I cleared the outlet with a wire and let all the lead run out . It
drips because apparently there's a bit of debris in the outlet . From
the article you cited this is not uncommon , just annoying . I'll pull
the rod in a day or two and clean it out along with wire brushing the
whole pot . I think this is the first time this thing has melted lead in
quite a while ...
--
Snag
-a-a I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
-------------------------------------------
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-lyman-model-61-pot.162691/
"If you have to replace any wiring in there go to an electrical supply
house and ask for stove wire, get some of the slip on insulation for
it too while you are there."
Also get nickel plated high temperature crimp connectors for the
stranded wire. Solid wire is for stationary wiring that doesn't
vibrate, stranded for anything portable.
I buy used industrial temperature controllers cheap at ham radio
(general electrical) flea markets to use as thermostat replacements
and remote thermocouple readouts for the basement wood stove and food
heating on it. They aren't that expensive new either.
https://www.amazon.com/SINOTIMER-Temperature-Controller-Comes-
Thermocouple/dp/B0DSFRKP8G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
Look for one with type K thermocouple wire with glass or ceramic
insulation, others might not be good for 800F. If necessary the hot
section of the wire can be insulated with glass or ceramic beads, I've
used wood stove gasket cement.
PID is a sophisticated and precise control method that isn't really
necessary for a lead pot. Ideally it maintains a constant temperature.
The alternative is on/off control that turns power on at a lower
temperature and off at a somewhat higher one, like a mechanical
thermostat that needs a temperature differential between On and Off to
power its snap action.
The Lee pot uses a simple analog control.-a The older style RCBS Pro Melt used a slightly better analog control.-a When they switched to a digital
PID control it almost destroyed their lead pot business.-a Fortunately
for them they sell decent quality molds, dies, and other reloading supplies.-a RCBS quit selling melters for a while, and finally they got their digital control working properly, or more likely started buying
them from a more reputable Chinese supplier.-a I can't speak to whatever lyman uses.-a I have a Lyman ladle pour melter, but not a bottom pour
pot.-a Their ladle pour melter has ALWAYS been a little cooler than I
would like at max temperature setting.
For calibration the melting point of pure lead is 621.5F, 327.5C. This
shows the effect of added tin:
https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/
Solder%20Alloy%20Melting%20Temperature.pdf
As long as I stay below the vapor temperature I'm good.-a Most lure
casters run from about 775F to about 850F.-a To hot to check with my NCT.
Straightening solid copper wire by pulling it past its yield point gives
a good feel for wire strength. I've seen the pull force test machine but never anyone using it, an experienced tug by hand was enough.
On 10/13/2025 3:48 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/13/2025 7:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10ciorg$265gj$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/13/2025 5:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead >>>> pots
? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older
unit
I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power plug >>>> is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and
melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean >>>> up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it >>>> viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of
more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
-a-a I cleared the outlet with a wire and let all the lead run out . It
drips because apparently there's a bit of debris in the outlet . From
the article you cited this is not uncommon , just annoying . I'll pull
the rod in a day or two and clean it out along with wire brushing the
whole pot . I think this is the first time this thing has melted lead in >>> quite a while ...
--
Snag
-a-a I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
-------------------------------------------
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-lyman-model-61-
pot.162691/
"If you have to replace any wiring in there go to an electrical
supply house and ask for stove wire, get some of the slip on
insulation for it too while you are there."
Also get nickel plated high temperature crimp connectors for the
stranded wire. Solid wire is for stationary wiring that doesn't
vibrate, stranded for anything portable.
I buy used industrial temperature controllers cheap at ham radio
(general electrical) flea markets to use as thermostat replacements
and remote thermocouple readouts for the basement wood stove and food
heating on it. They aren't that expensive new either.
https://www.amazon.com/SINOTIMER-Temperature-Controller-Comes-
Thermocouple/dp/B0DSFRKP8G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
Look for one with type K thermocouple wire with glass or ceramic
insulation, others might not be good for 800F. If necessary the hot
section of the wire can be insulated with glass or ceramic beads,
I've used wood stove gasket cement.
PID is a sophisticated and precise control method that isn't really
necessary for a lead pot. Ideally it maintains a constant
temperature. The alternative is on/off control that turns power on at
a lower temperature and off at a somewhat higher one, like a
mechanical thermostat that needs a temperature differential between
On and Off to power its snap action.
The Lee pot uses a simple analog control.-a The older style RCBS Pro
Melt used a slightly better analog control.-a When they switched to a
digital PID control it almost destroyed their lead pot business.
Fortunately for them they sell decent quality molds, dies, and other
reloading supplies.-a RCBS quit selling melters for a while, and
finally they got their digital control working properly, or more
likely started buying them from a more reputable Chinese supplier.-a I
can't speak to whatever lyman uses.-a I have a Lyman ladle pour melter,
but not a bottom pour pot.-a Their ladle pour melter has ALWAYS been a
little cooler than I would like at max temperature setting.
For calibration the melting point of pure lead is 621.5F, 327.5C.
This shows the effect of added tin:
https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/
Solder%20Alloy%20Melting%20Temperature.pdf
As long as I stay below the vapor temperature I'm good.-a Most lure
casters run from about 775F to about 850F.-a To hot to check with my NCT.
-a For my test run I had the thermostat set at 650 . Don't know the
alloy that was already in the pot but it looks like probably pure lead .
On 10/13/2025 9:13 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2025 3:48 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/13/2025 7:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10ciorg$265gj$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/13/2025 5:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10chrhj$1uj45$1@dont-email.me...
-a-a Hey Bob , what do you know about Lyman model 61 bottom pour lead >>>>> pots
? I scored one at a yard sale last Friday for IIRC 30 bucks - older >>>>> unit
I think because it has the cast iron base-a . The mica at the power >>>>> plug
is destroyed but I managed a temporary fix for testing . It heats and >>>>> melts the lead , but it dribbles . Is there a recommended way to clean >>>>> up the valve area to stop that dribble ? This unit is going to make it >>>>> viable for me to cast with the aim to sell a few bullets/balls to
friends and neighbors . Not for profit but more to enable purchase of >>>>> more casting supplies for whatever comes down the road ahead .-a .
-a-a I cleared the outlet with a wire and let all the lead run out . It >>>> drips because apparently there's a bit of debris in the outlet . From
the article you cited this is not uncommon , just annoying . I'll pull >>>> the rod in a day or two and clean it out along with wire brushing the
whole pot . I think this is the first time this thing has melted
lead in
quite a while ...
--
Snag
-a-a I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...
-------------------------------------------
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-lyman-model-61-
pot.162691/
"If you have to replace any wiring in there go to an electrical
supply house and ask for stove wire, get some of the slip on
insulation for it too while you are there."
Also get nickel plated high temperature crimp connectors for the
stranded wire. Solid wire is for stationary wiring that doesn't
vibrate, stranded for anything portable.
I buy used industrial temperature controllers cheap at ham radio
(general electrical) flea markets to use as thermostat replacements
and remote thermocouple readouts for the basement wood stove and
food heating on it. They aren't that expensive new either.
https://www.amazon.com/SINOTIMER-Temperature-Controller-Comes-
Thermocouple/dp/B0DSFRKP8G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
Look for one with type K thermocouple wire with glass or ceramic
insulation, others might not be good for 800F. If necessary the hot
section of the wire can be insulated with glass or ceramic beads,
I've used wood stove gasket cement.
PID is a sophisticated and precise control method that isn't really
necessary for a lead pot. Ideally it maintains a constant
temperature. The alternative is on/off control that turns power on
at a lower temperature and off at a somewhat higher one, like a
mechanical thermostat that needs a temperature differential between
On and Off to power its snap action.
The Lee pot uses a simple analog control.-a The older style RCBS Pro
Melt used a slightly better analog control.-a When they switched to a
digital PID control it almost destroyed their lead pot business.
Fortunately for them they sell decent quality molds, dies, and other
reloading supplies.-a RCBS quit selling melters for a while, and
finally they got their digital control working properly, or more
likely started buying them from a more reputable Chinese supplier.-a I
can't speak to whatever lyman uses.-a I have a Lyman ladle pour
melter, but not a bottom pour pot.-a Their ladle pour melter has
ALWAYS been a little cooler than I would like at max temperature
setting.
For calibration the melting point of pure lead is 621.5F, 327.5C.
This shows the effect of added tin:
https://www.technic.com/sites/default/files/resources/
Solder%20Alloy%20Melting%20Temperature.pdf
As long as I stay below the vapor temperature I'm good.-a Most lure
casters run from about 775F to about 850F.-a To hot to check with my NCT. >>>
-a-a For my test run I had the thermostat set at 650 . Don't know the
alloy that was already in the pot but it looks like probably pure lead .
Pure lead or at least soft lead is usually used for muzzle loader and cap and ball bullets.-a Hard cast is usually used for cartridge bullets.
You can get the best "known" alloy from RotoMetals.-a You can get the
most consistent lower price hard cast or soft alloy from PBCastCo.-a You
can get the cheapest lead usually from lucky scavenging or the local
scrap yards.
I think 650 sounds awfully low for good castings, but you can't really
trust the temperature on an analog dial.-a You just turn it up until it works, or you max it out.-a If it uses a thermocouple and a PID
controller you can usually trust the digital display is pretty close.
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10cmdu5$37j7i$1@dont-email.me...
-a All I was interested in was seeing if it will melt lead . I have 2 varieties on hand , soft lead from old shower pans and lead pipe removed
from old houses , other known relatively pure lead . I also have quite a
bit of wheel weights cast into ingots . I do as you said , hard for
cartridge arms and soft for balls and muzzle loader slugs , I've got a
couple of type K thermocouples and a pretty good digital MM , I can
verify the lead temp vs the 'stat setting next time I fire it up .
Snag
--------------------------------
As this shows, none of the plastic insulations can take molten lead temperature.
https://www.omega.co.uk/temperature/z/wireinsulation.html
You strip it or can let it melt off and bend the wires apart, as long as they don't short to each other before they enter the melt. Being shorted
by the molten lead doesn't matter. The proof of that was a homework exercise, the voltage develops where the wires change temperature. https://www.meter-depot.com/blog/thermocouple-tip-contamination-with-other-metals-has-no-effect/
The better way is to insulate them with ceramic beads or buy a metal
probe. Omega charged me $30 to make a custom Inconel 600 probe. I don't trust cheap used stainless probes from flea markets in food, they might
have been in lead or mercury.
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10cn56c$32g7v$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/14/2025 6:05 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
-a... My temp probes are metal tubes ... I've had one of then over 2000 degrees in my gas forge . I've used them to check melt temp of molten aluminum just before pouring into molds too . Lead temps are not a big
deal ...unless you leave a trace of moisture in an open top ingot mold .
Got a couple of scars from that adventure !
Snag
--------------------------------
When I was young and had only woodworking machinery I cast lead salvaged from broken discarded batteries in wood ingot molds routed on the
Shopsmith in vertical knee mill mode. The wood slowly charred and
degraded and a plaster coating didn't hold up either so I had the bright idea of trying to cast under water since I knew molten copper poured
into water would insulate itself in a stable steam bubble and briefly
remain glowing.
Lead also quietly filled a flooded mold cavity and hardened with a shiny unoxidized surface. I thought I was onto something until I poured into a cavity with a dimple in the bottom, an old nail hole that the lead
flowed over. The resulting steam explosion plated the ceiling with a
thin shiny layer. Luckily I wasn't in its path. After that close call I became more careful.
Molten aluminum dribbled into a snowbank freezes into shiny teardrops
with pointed tails.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Rupert%27s_drop
-a My temp probes are metal tubes ... I've had one of then over 2000 degrees in my gas forge . I've used them to check melt temp of molten aluminum just before pouring into molds too . Lead temps are not a big
deal ...unless you leave a trace of moisture in an open top ingot mold .
Got a couple of scars from that adventure !
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10cn56c$32g7v$1@dont-email.me...My very first molds were to cast bullets in wood blanks. Typically with
On 10/14/2025 6:05 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
-a... My temp probes are metal tubes ... I've had one of then over 2000 degrees in my gas forge . I've used them to check melt temp of molten aluminum just before pouring into molds too . Lead temps are not a big
deal ...unless you leave a trace of moisture in an open top ingot mold .
Got a couple of scars from that adventure !
Snag
--------------------------------
When I was young and had only woodworking machinery I cast lead salvaged from broken discarded batteries in wood ingot molds routed on the
Shopsmith in vertical knee mill mode. The wood slowly charred and
degraded and a plaster coating didn't hold up either so I had the bright idea of trying to cast under water since I knew molten copper poured
into water would insulate itself in a stable steam bubble and briefly
remain glowing.
On 10/15/2025 4:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"-a wrote in message news:10cn56c$32g7v$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/14/2025 6:05 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
-a-a... My temp probes are metal tubes ... I've had one of then over 2000
degrees in my gas forge . I've used them to check melt temp of molten
aluminum just before pouring into molds too . Lead temps are not a big
deal ...unless you leave a trace of moisture in an open top ingot mold .
Got a couple of scars from that adventure !
Snag
--------------------------------
When I was young and had only woodworking machinery I cast lead
salvaged from broken discarded batteries in wood ingot molds routed on
the Shopsmith in vertical knee mill mode. The wood slowly charred and
degraded and a plaster coating didn't hold up either so I had the
bright idea of trying to cast under water since I knew molten copper
poured into water would insulate itself in a stable steam bubble and
briefly remain glowing.
My very first molds were to cast bullets in wood blanks.-a Typically with cheap pine boards they were good for about 3 castings before they got to big.-a That was a lifetime ago.
On 10/14/2025 8:42 PM, Snag wrote:
-a-a My temp probes are metal tubes ... I've had one of then over 2000
degrees in my gas forge . I've used them to check melt temp of molten
aluminum just before pouring into molds too . Lead temps are not a big
deal ...unless you leave a trace of moisture in an open top ingot mold
. Got a couple of scars from that adventure !
A drop of water in a lead pot can certainly be exciting, but at a much
lower temperature a drop of water in a cup of molten plastisol resin can
be worse because it sticks when it hits you.