From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

I'm not sure if I mentioned this in another post ... My neighbor had
this tractor mount post hole digger . Now it's mine . Seems the original purchaser neglected to read the label on the gearbox which said "this
product shipped without oil . Add .8 liters of 80 or 90 weight gear oil
before using " . So for the princely sum of 117 bucks for new bearings
and seals I now have my very own post hole digger with a 9" auger . New
gear box would cost around 250 bucks but why would I do a silly thing
like that when I can rebuild it myself ? It's not about the money , it's
about braggin' rights and keeping one more item out of the scrap heap .
--
Snag
We live in a time where intelligent people
are being silenced so that
stupid people won't be offended.
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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 9/29/2025 12:11 PM, Snag wrote:

-a I'm not sure if I mentioned this in another post ... My neighbor had this tractor mount post hole digger . Now it's mine . Seems the original purchaser neglected to read the label on the gearbox which said "this product shipped without oil . Add .8 liters of 80 or 90 weight gear oil before using " . So for the princely sum of 117 bucks for new bearings
and seals I now have my very own post hole digger with a 9" auger . New
gear box would cost around 250 bucks but why would I do a silly thing
like that when I can rebuild it myself ? It's not about the money , it's about braggin' rights and keeping one more item out of the scrap heap .

Mine should say, "Refill with oil every time you use it." I suppose I
should get new seals for it, but as often as I use it I'd probably need
new seals gain and a quart of gear oil is available right down the
street. I'd have to order seals.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:10belkh$37ar8$1@dont-email.me...

New gear box would cost around 250 bucks but why would I do a silly thing >like that when I can rebuild it myself ? It's not about the money , it's >about braggin' rights and keeping one more item out of the scrap heap .
Snag

I fully understand, you beat the "system" in a way few others could. You own it now instead of it owning you.

Resoldering the windshield wiper module and drilling out the frozen distributor bolt to keep the old truck and car going are similar. Neither is
a job a shop would/could do as they required circuit board troubleshooting
and a milling machine. A couple have told me that my suggested fix was impossible (for them) and tried to sell me a poor alternative they could handle. I've been asking around at shops and hot rod / antique gatherings to learn who specializes in what.

I acquired my free garden tractor and rock drill by being able to fix them.
I bought a used wood bandsaw that lacked oiling and instead of buying a new shaft it was my first project in machine shop night school. An in-person instructor was helpful to learn lathe thread cutting.

Richard, being able to accurately turn and bore bushings and bearings and
cut threads are perhaps the main enablers of being able to make what you
can't buy, and fitting mismatched surplus parts together when on too tight a budget to buy new. I made good use of lathe-cut 22mm internal threads today
on an adapter that attaches a spreader bar to a lower profile floor jack of
a different brand, that gave clearance to lift the rear axle by both shock mounts, leaving plenty of space for jack stands under the axle next to the wheels.
https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-64051.html

The spreader bar is for my attempt to use ramps and jack stands to get
around not having a vehicle lift or place for one. My brother-in-law has a
low profile Snap-On in his barn and complains that the side rails make it restrictive. He seems to have mastered the art of keeping older European sports cars on the road.

I see inexpensive RV screw jack stands with 6000 lb ratings. If the top had
a suitable non-sliding axle or lift point adapter pad would they support a car? Has anyone tried?

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From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

On 9/29/2025 6:04 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I see inexpensive RV screw jack stands with 6000 lb ratings. If the top
had a suitable non-sliding axle or lift point adapter pad would they
support a car? Has anyone tried?

Somebody is about to now that you put the idea in my I mean His mind ...
--
Snag
We live in a time where intelligent people
are being silenced so that
stupid people won't be offended.
--- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2

From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

"Snag" wrote in message news:10bf5sa$3b8ma$1@dont-email.me...

On 9/29/2025 6:04 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I see inexpensive RV screw jack stands with 6000 lb ratings. If the top
had a suitable non-sliding axle or lift point adapter pad would they
support a car? Has anyone tried?

Somebody is about to now that you put the idea in my I mean His mind ...

Snag
----------------------------------
I plan to use one or two screw jack stands with two or three ratchet ones to equally support the body lift points, with ratchet stands or timbers as
backup just below. The spreader bar lets me lift one end while the other is
on ramps, or with the higher Badlands offroad jack raise the ramp end enough to remove the ramps if both wheels need to hang, as when adjusting steering free play. Lifting all four wheels like a professional lift isn't as simple
as I'd hoped, neither floor jack goes both low and high enough.

I have a yellow Toyota Land Cruiser telescoping screw jack with plenty of height capacity but too small a baseplate to trust if the other side's tires are off the ground. It's nice as a horizontal bandsaw stock support. https://www.cruisercult.com/post/land-cruiser-tool-kits-part-4

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