• Have to Move the "Big" Lathe

    From Bob La Londe@none@none.com99 to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 13:26:24 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    I had an email this morning from a customer asking for a semi custom
    variation of a stock design mold so I headed out to the shop early. As I mentioned in another post we've had some rain off and on from thunder
    storm cells. Large anvil head clouds. It could have rained last night,
    so I wasn't surprised at first to find some water inside the back door
    of the shop. It seemed like an awful lot of water, and the outside
    wasn't wet.

    Sometimes if I get a lot of rain with some wind I'll get some run in
    under the overhead door on the wind blown side of the building. No big
    deal. Its never an issue.

    This morning there was a standing puddle in the back that was running
    into my office. I stood there for a moment studying the problem and
    then I noticed the sound of running water from behind the lathe. Where
    I tap into the waterline going to my shop fridge and icemaker to feed
    the water distiller. I use a water distiller for pure water to mix with cutting coolant. Probably overkill, but I started doing it years ago
    when I was trying CRAPMist, and CrapMist wouldn't recognize the fact
    that for long duration projects CrapMist stains aluminum parts. I've
    been running distilled water ever since.

    I turned off the water to the shop. I don't know what the problem is
    because I'm just to big to fit in the gap behind the lathe to look at
    it. I'm going to have to move the lathe. I guess that will give me a
    chance to finally put the leveling feet on it and get rid of those
    stacks of shims.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


    --
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  • From Snag@Snag_one@msn.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 15:44:22 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 9/19/2025 3:26 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I had an email this morning from a customer asking for a semi custom variation of a stock design mold so I headed out to the shop early. As I mentioned in another post we've had some rain off and on from thunder
    storm cells.-a Large anvil head clouds.-a It could have rained last night, so I wasn't surprised at first to find some water inside the back door
    of the shop.-a It seemed like an awful lot of water, and the outside
    wasn't wet.

    Sometimes if I get a lot of rain with some wind I'll get some run in
    under the overhead door on the wind blown side of the building.-a No big deal.-a Its never an issue.

    This morning there was a standing puddle in the back that was running
    into my office.-a I stood there for a moment studying the problem and
    then I noticed the sound of running water from behind the lathe.-a Where
    I tap into the waterline going to my shop fridge and icemaker to feed
    the water distiller.-a I use a water distiller for pure water to mix with cutting coolant.-a Probably overkill, but I started doing it years ago
    when I was trying CRAPMist, and CrapMist wouldn't recognize the fact
    that for long duration projects CrapMist stains aluminum parts.-a-a I've been running distilled water ever since.

    I turned off the water to the shop.-a I don't know what the problem is because I'm just to big to fit in the gap behind the lathe to look at
    it.-a I'm going to have to move the lathe.-a I guess that will give me a chance to finally put the leveling feet on it and get rid of those
    stacks of shims.

    I finally got around to wiring my lathe for reverse today . I'm
    finding the need to make metric threads , and on my lathe that means a
    set of transposing gears and you can't disengage the half nuts or you
    lose register . Gotta back out of the cut and rewind back to the
    beginning .
    --
    Snag
    We live in a time where intelligent people
    are being silenced so that
    stupid people won't be offended.
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  • From Bob La Londe@none@none.com99 to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 15:39:25 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 9/19/2025 1:44 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/19/2025 3:26 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I had an email this morning from a customer asking for a semi custom
    variation of a stock design mold so I headed out to the shop early. As
    I mentioned in another post we've had some rain off and on from
    thunder storm cells.-a Large anvil head clouds.-a It could have rained
    last night, so I wasn't surprised at first to find some water inside
    the back door of the shop.-a It seemed like an awful lot of water, and
    the outside wasn't wet.

    Sometimes if I get a lot of rain with some wind I'll get some run in
    under the overhead door on the wind blown side of the building.-a No
    big deal.-a Its never an issue.

    This morning there was a standing puddle in the back that was running
    into my office.-a I stood there for a moment studying the problem and
    then I noticed the sound of running water from behind the lathe.
    Where I tap into the waterline going to my shop fridge and icemaker to
    feed the water distiller.-a I use a water distiller for pure water to
    mix with cutting coolant.-a Probably overkill, but I started doing it
    years ago when I was trying CRAPMist, and CrapMist wouldn't recognize
    the fact that for long duration projects CrapMist stains aluminum
    parts.-a-a I've been running distilled water ever since.

    I turned off the water to the shop.-a I don't know what the problem is
    because I'm just to big to fit in the gap behind the lathe to look at
    it.-a I'm going to have to move the lathe.-a I guess that will give me a
    chance to finally put the leveling feet on it and get rid of those
    stacks of shims.

    -a I finally got around to wiring my lathe for reverse today . I'm
    finding the need to make metric threads , and on my lathe that means a
    set of transposing gears and you can't disengage the half nuts or you
    lose register . Gotta back out of the cut and rewind back to the
    beginning .

    I didn't put the leveling feet on today. I just walked one end out far
    enough with a straight bar and block with one foot. It was faster than replacing the bad fitting. Looks like the rubber failed inside a push
    fit connector.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

    --
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  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 19:01:38 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "Snag" wrote in message news:10akfb6$ns86$1@dont-email.me...

    I finally got around to wiring my lathe for reverse today . I'm
    finding the need to make metric threads , and on my lathe that means a
    set of transposing gears and you can't disengage the half nuts or you
    lose register . Gotta back out of the cut and rewind back to the
    beginning .
    Snag

    -------------------------
    This says you can disengage them, but it still isn't as convenient as
    quickly moving the carriage back by hand and setting up the next cut while waiting for the thread dial mark.
    https://conradhoffman.com/metricthreading.htm

    "*When you reach the stopping point, release the half nuts just as you
    always do, but immediately shut off the lathe. The thread dial will go a bit beyond the chosen number as the lathe coasts to a stop.
    *Back the tool out of the thread just as you always do, preferably while the spindle is still turning.
    *Reverse the lathe motor while watching the thread dial. Engage the half
    nuts as soon as the original number comes back to the mark."

    Instead of releasing the half nuts I pull up the belt engagement lever which stops the spindle and leadscrew almost instantly. After the motor coasts
    down I finish the cut by hand to the end hole or stack of previous chips by moving the exposed cone pulley, easy enough with back gear reduction. When done I V-chisel out the chips and smooth the thread end with a triangular file. For me the well spaced controls on a South Bend are very convenient
    and I appreciate the smoothly sculpted castings over bulkier square machined components. I don't ask it to give the power of a gear head lathe.

    On my inch lathe with the 70 position Quick Change gearbox I need two transposing ratios to get all the metric threads I want. They are the
    standard 100/127 plus 120/127 for finer threads for optics. As the threading label was missing I made one up as a spreadsheet and printed it. Linking the transposing ratio into the cell formulas of a copy of it gives the metric modulus for each gearbox setting. In Britain pipe thread pitches are
    different and the spreadsheet won't be correct.

    Boston lathe change gears are meant to go on a double splined center bushing that couples a pair of them together. The bushing bore for the thread pitch that matches my lathe's tumbler and QC box input gears is smaller than the sliding post on the banjo so I machined a new post and base. I could also
    have made or bought a plain bushing with the right OD and bore but no
    splines and bolted the gears together. https://www.bostongear.com/products/open-gearing/stock-gears/spur-gears/change-gears

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  • From Bob La Londe@none@none.com99 to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 16:37:52 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 9/19/2025 3:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/19/2025 1:44 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/19/2025 3:26 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I had an email this morning from a customer asking for a semi custom
    variation of a stock design mold so I headed out to the shop early.
    As I mentioned in another post we've had some rain off and on from
    thunder storm cells.-a Large anvil head clouds.-a It could have rained
    last night, so I wasn't surprised at first to find some water inside
    the back door of the shop.-a It seemed like an awful lot of water, and
    the outside wasn't wet.

    Sometimes if I get a lot of rain with some wind I'll get some run in
    under the overhead door on the wind blown side of the building.-a No
    big deal.-a Its never an issue.

    This morning there was a standing puddle in the back that was running
    into my office.-a I stood there for a moment studying the problem and
    then I noticed the sound of running water from behind the lathe.
    Where I tap into the waterline going to my shop fridge and icemaker
    to feed the water distiller.-a I use a water distiller for pure water
    to mix with cutting coolant.-a Probably overkill, but I started doing
    it years ago when I was trying CRAPMist, and CrapMist wouldn't
    recognize the fact that for long duration projects CrapMist stains
    aluminum parts.-a-a I've been running distilled water ever since.

    I turned off the water to the shop.-a I don't know what the problem is
    because I'm just to big to fit in the gap behind the lathe to look at
    it.-a I'm going to have to move the lathe.-a I guess that will give me
    a chance to finally put the leveling feet on it and get rid of those
    stacks of shims.

    -a-a I finally got around to wiring my lathe for reverse today . I'm
    finding the need to make metric threads , and on my lathe that means a
    set of transposing gears and you can't disengage the half nuts or you
    lose register . Gotta back out of the cut and rewind back to the
    beginning .

    I didn't put the leveling feet on today.-a I just walked one end out far enough with a straight bar and block with one foot.-a It was faster than replacing the bad fitting.-a Looks like the rubber failed inside a push
    fit connector.


    P.S. They says its the humidity, not the heat that gets you. Well when
    its over 115F the heat will definitely kill you, but a flood in the shop
    raise the humidity to southern swamp land levels. At only 95 (normally
    nice outdoor weather for me) the humidity after the flood was miserable
    while I was moving the lathe and fixing the plumbing.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 20:59:08 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10akpgg$q83c$1@dont-email.me...

    P.S. They says its the humidity, not the heat that gets you. Well when
    its over 115F the heat will definitely kill you, but a flood in the shop
    raise the humidity to southern swamp land levels. At only 95 (normally
    nice outdoor weather for me) the humidity after the flood was miserable
    while I was moving the lathe and fixing the plumbing.
    Bob La Londe

    ------------------------------
    The highest I've acclimated to was 105F when I lived in a drafty and poorly insulated top floor apartment, really a finished attic. My father's family
    is from Georgia and I didn't mind the summer heat there after two weeks. Two summers ago I was running the sawmill in 95F heat, though under a rain
    canopy.

    Mom's side is colonial New England. I can also acclimate to cold like them
    but it takes a while. I'm not nearly as cold tolerant as the Native
    Americans I knew, just pretty good for a white guy. When I was little the bedrooms were unheated and the house cooled quickly after the last evening coal fire died. I still heat with wood, the original plus my added
    insulation hold the heat much longer.

    Now my resting comfort range is low 80's indoors in summer and mid to high 50's in winter. You can have Arizona all to yourself.

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  • From Snag@Snag_one@msn.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri Sep 19 20:52:59 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 9/19/2025 7:59 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10akpgg$q83c$1@dont-email.me...

    P.S.-a They says its the humidity, not the heat that gets you.-a Well when its over 115F the heat will definitely kill you, but a flood in the shop raise the humidity to southern swamp land levels.-a At only 95 (normally
    nice outdoor weather for me) the humidity after the flood was miserable
    while I was moving the lathe and fixing the plumbing.
    Bob La Londe

    ------------------------------
    The highest I've acclimated to was 105F when I lived in a drafty and
    poorly insulated top floor apartment, really a finished attic. My
    father's family is from Georgia and I didn't mind the summer heat there after two weeks. Two summers ago I was running the sawmill in 95F heat, though under a rain canopy.

    Mom's side is colonial New England. I can also acclimate to cold like
    them but it takes a while. I'm not nearly as cold tolerant as the Native Americans I knew, just pretty good for a white guy. When I was little
    the bedrooms were unheated and the house cooled quickly after the last evening coal fire died. I still heat with wood, the original plus my
    added insulation hold the heat much longer.

    Now my resting comfort range is low 80's indoors in summer and mid to
    high 50's in winter. You can have Arizona all to yourself.


    I aim for mid 70's both summer and winter . I can handle a bit cooler
    in winter , but with the humidity here over about 75 or so I just don't
    like it . Probably comes from those Utah high mountain desert summers
    while I was growing up . If the humidity got over 35% it was raining ...
    --
    Snag
    We live in a time where intelligent people
    are being silenced so that
    stupid people won't be offended.
    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From David Billington@djb@invalid.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat Sep 20 03:12:38 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 20/09/2025 00:01, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag" wrote in message news:10akfb6$ns86$1@dont-email.me...

    -a I finally got around to wiring my lathe for reverse today . I'm
    finding the need to make metric threads , and on my lathe that means a
    set of transposing gears and you can't disengage the half nuts or you
    lose register . Gotta back out of the cut and rewind back to the
    beginning .
    Snag

    -------------------------
    This says you can disengage them, but it still isn't as convenient as quickly moving the carriage back by hand and setting up the next cut
    while waiting for the thread dial mark. https://conradhoffman.com/metricthreading.htm

    "*When you reach the stopping point, release the half nuts just as you always do, but immediately shut off the lathe. The thread dial will go
    a bit beyond the chosen number as the lathe coasts to a stop.
    *Back the tool out of the thread just as you always do, preferably
    while the spindle is still turning.
    *Reverse the lathe motor while watching the thread dial. Engage the
    half nuts as soon as the original number comes back to the mark."

    Instead of releasing the half nuts I pull up the belt engagement lever
    which stops the spindle and leadscrew almost instantly. After the
    motor coasts down I finish the cut by hand to the end hole or stack of previous chips by moving the exposed cone pulley, easy enough with
    back gear reduction. When done I V-chisel out the chips and smooth the thread end with a triangular file. For me the well spaced controls on
    a South Bend are very convenient and I appreciate the smoothly
    sculpted castings over bulkier square machined components. I don't ask
    it to give the power of a gear head lathe.

    On my inch lathe with the 70 position Quick Change gearbox I need two transposing ratios to get all the metric threads I want. They are the standard 100/127 plus 120/127 for finer threads for optics. As the
    threading label was missing I made one up as a spreadsheet and printed
    it. Linking the transposing ratio into the cell formulas of a copy of
    it gives the metric modulus for each gearbox setting. In Britain pipe
    thread pitches are different and the spreadsheet won't be correct.
    If you're referring to BSP threads why mention it as they're inch
    threads and typically differ from NPT by 1TPI, excepting 1/2" and 3/4"
    which have the same pitch. The ISO pipe thread is BSP.

    Boston lathe change gears are meant to go on a double splined center
    bushing that couples a pair of them together. The bushing bore for the thread pitch that matches my lathe's tumbler and QC box input gears is smaller than the sliding post on the banjo so I machined a new post
    and base. I could also have made or bought a plain bushing with the
    right OD and bore but no splines and bolted the gears together. https://www.bostongear.com/products/open-gearing/stock-gears/spur-gears/change-gears



    --- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Bob La Londe@none@none.com99 to rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat Sep 20 12:05:19 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On 9/19/2025 5:59 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"-a wrote in message news:10akpgg$q83c$1@dont-email.me...

    P.S.-a They says its the humidity, not the heat that gets you.-a Well when its over 115F the heat will definitely kill you, but a flood in the shop raise the humidity to southern swamp land levels.-a At only 95 (normally
    nice outdoor weather for me) the humidity after the flood was miserable
    while I was moving the lathe and fixing the plumbing.
    Bob La Londe

    ------------------------------
    The highest I've acclimated to was 105F when I lived in a drafty and
    poorly insulated top floor apartment, really a finished attic. My
    father's family is from Georgia and I didn't mind the summer heat there after two weeks. Two summers ago I was running the sawmill in 95F heat, though under a rain canopy.

    Mom's side is colonial New England. I can also acclimate to cold like
    them but it takes a while. I'm not nearly as cold tolerant as the Native Americans I knew, just pretty good for a white guy. When I was little
    the bedrooms were unheated and the house cooled quickly after the last evening coal fire died. I still heat with wood, the original plus my
    added insulation hold the heat much longer.

    Now my resting comfort range is low 80's indoors in summer and mid to
    high 50's in winter. You can have Arizona all to yourself.


    I grew up doing summer jobs in the grapes and the cotton. We were glad
    to get them. Kid crews chopping cotton and working the packing sheds.
    We got more work done and typically got paid better than the labor camp
    crews made up of "adults." They didn't even hire the labor camps for
    the packing sheds. Acclimatized is a strong word. I can do something I
    enjoy without to much whining in the desert in the summer time up to
    around 110F unless its humid if I have plenty of water. Under 100F and
    low humidity, I'm great. High humidity? F this shit!

    My wife and I used to ride our motorcycles everywhere come Hell or
    high... well, come Hell. Not much high water around here. We'd stop
    at every stop and water up. On bad days we soaked our helmets and our
    riding gear on the hottest days, and everything would by dry by the next
    stop. We rode in rain, fog, cold, a lot of hot, and once in half a mile
    of lemons. I'll give her credit. I mostly did it from my rocking chair
    (FLHT or GL1200). She did it from that damned kidney grinder Fatboy of
    hers. After riding that thing I don't think I would ever own a softail myself. I've ridden Paughco save-yer springers that were a better ride.

    I'm getting older. I can still do most things I need to do, but I go
    slower, grab a pair of gloves, and try to do the worst things on the
    better days if I can. If I have to go rescue my son's car from along
    the freeway on a 118F degree day I can still do it. I'm just gonna
    bitch about it a whole lot.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com
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  • From Jim Wilkins@muratlanne@gmail.com to rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat Sep 20 20:44:52 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    "David Billington" wrote in message news:10al2im$r408$1@dont-email.me...

    On 20/09/2025 00:01, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    As the threading label was missing I made one up as a spreadsheet and >printed it. ... In Britain pipe thread pitches are different and the >spreadsheet won't be correct.

    If you're referring to BSP threads why mention it as they're inch
    threads and typically differ from NPT by 1TPI, excepting 1/2" and 3/4"
    which have the same pitch. The ISO pipe thread is BSP.

    ----------------------------------
    The standard thread pitch choices on a US Heavy 10 lathe 70 speed QC gearbox are:
    8, 9, 10, 11, 11,5, 12, 13, (13.5), 14, (15),
    16, 18, 20, 22, (23), 24, (26), 27, 28, (30),
    32, 36, 40, 44, (46), 48, (52), (54), 56, (60)
    64, 72, 80 ...
    The missing pitch for BSP is 19 for 1/4" and 3/8".
    (#) indicates an unused multiple of another standard, as each row is twice
    the one above. I left out the top row which is half the one below, 4 to 7.5, and the two lowest rows which are for fine feeds, driven from a keyway in
    the dual purpose leadscrew. The lathe has a banjo for change gears but the leadscrew drive still has to go through the gearbox.

    US pipe threads standards were established before there was much steam
    engine trade between Britain and the US. We imported a few British
    locomotives at first, then diverged because we weren't as limited by your loading gauge and right-of-way restrictions, or Watt's objection to high boiler pressure. Inside-the-frame cylinders and one pair of very large
    driving wheels never caught on here. Our steamboat engines developed independently from Oliver Evan's designs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:MR_4-2-2_673,_Rocket_150,_Rainhill,_May_1980_Slides184_(9859805644)_%E2%80%93_edited.jpg

    https://www.detroitnippleworks.com/pipe-thread-standards/
    "The history of pipe and pipe threading dates back to development in 1820 by Robert Briggs at Pascal Iron Works of the Morris Tasker Co. Located in Philadelphia PA, Robert created his first gage in 1834 to examine internal pipe threads."

    https://railwaymatters.wordpress.com/2019/11/03/north-american-steam/
    "At around the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century, it was deemed an offence by -+the government of the day to transmit any information about the development or use of steam power to North America."

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  • From Clare Snyder@clare@snyder.on.ca to rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat Sep 20 21:07:25 2025
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.metalworking

    On Sat, 20 Sep 2025 12:05:19 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    On 9/19/2025 5:59 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"a wrote in message news:10akpgg$q83c$1@dont-email.me...

    P.S.a They says its the humidity, not the heat that gets you.a Well when
    its over 115F the heat will definitely kill you, but a flood in the shop
    raise the humidity to southern swamp land levels.a At only 95 (normally
    nice outdoor weather for me) the humidity after the flood was miserable
    while I was moving the lathe and fixing the plumbing.
    Bob La Londe

    ------------------------------
    The highest I've acclimated to was 105F when I lived in a drafty and
    poorly insulated top floor apartment, really a finished attic. My
    father's family is from Georgia and I didn't mind the summer heat there
    after two weeks. Two summers ago I was running the sawmill in 95F heat,
    though under a rain canopy.

    Mom's side is colonial New England. I can also acclimate to cold like
    them but it takes a while. I'm not nearly as cold tolerant as the Native
    Americans I knew, just pretty good for a white guy. When I was little
    the bedrooms were unheated and the house cooled quickly after the last
    evening coal fire died. I still heat with wood, the original plus my
    added insulation hold the heat much longer.

    Now my resting comfort range is low 80's indoors in summer and mid to
    high 50's in winter. You can have Arizona all to yourself.


    I grew up doing summer jobs in the grapes and the cotton. We were glad
    to get them. Kid crews chopping cotton and working the packing sheds.
    We got more work done and typically got paid better than the labor camp >crews made up of "adults." They didn't even hire the labor camps for
    the packing sheds. Acclimatized is a strong word. I can do something I >enjoy without to much whining in the desert in the summer time up to
    around 110F unless its humid if I have plenty of water. Under 100F and
    low humidity, I'm great. High humidity? F this shit!

    My wife and I used to ride our motorcycles everywhere come Hell or
    high... well, come Hell. Not much high water around here. We'd stop
    at every stop and water up. On bad days we soaked our helmets and our >riding gear on the hottest days, and everything would by dry by the next >stop. We rode in rain, fog, cold, a lot of hot, and once in half a mile
    of lemons. I'll give her credit. I mostly did it from my rocking chair >(FLHT or GL1200). She did it from that damned kidney grinder Fatboy of >hers. After riding that thing I don't think I would ever own a softail >myself. I've ridden Paughco save-yer springers that were a better ride.

    I'm getting older. I can still do most things I need to do, but I go >slower, grab a pair of gloves, and try to do the worst things on the
    better days if I can. If I have to go rescue my son's car from along
    the freeway on a 118F degree day I can still do it. I'm just gonna
    bitch about it a whole lot.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

    At 73 I can still do most of what I used to do in my thirties - but
    it TAKES LONGER, and it HURTS A LOT MORE and I pay for it A LOT
    LONGER!!!!!
    Just did another 10 mile ride on the bicycle again today, after doing
    one yesterday. It's exercise that doesn't bother may back after my
    fusion last October, with the bike designed and adjusted to fit me
    properly.
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