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I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike. It wentGRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new crank.
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side. I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned. Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings. (Shitmano bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the
inner race.) However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding the shaft into the BB. Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on. With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts. The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set. When the clunk resurfaced and I disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks. Of course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula. Fingers crossed!
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike. It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side. I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned. Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings. (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the
inner race.) However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding the
shaft into the BB. Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on. With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts. The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set. When the clunk resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks. Of course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula. Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new crank.
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings.-a (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding the >>> shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.-a With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts.-a The BBB BB >>> comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo UT), >>> and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of course It is too >>> thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and force it >>> in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.-a Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can slip
up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance problem I
would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND
new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a >>>> tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic >>>> bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings.-a (Shitmano >>>> bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between. >>>> BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the >>>> inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle, >>>> I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling. >>>>
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding
the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing >>>> area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.-a With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps >>>> into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts.-a The BBB BB >>>> comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo
UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was >>>> too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite >>>> to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of course It is too >>>> thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and
force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.-a Fingers crossed! >>>
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can
slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance
problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable
XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an axle that has
been more accurately machined and checked?-a I doubt it.-a I expect they
all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset, years ago.-a I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until this one is
good and worn out.-a By that time I might luxuriate on a Campagnolo
Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring
option (48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero clearance
between the chain ring bolts and the frame.-a It's the only reason I went Shimano, and the cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a >>>> tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic >>>> bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings.-a (Shitmano >>>> bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between. >>>> BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the >>>> inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle, >>>> I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling. >>>>
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding the >>>> shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing >>>> area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.-a With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps >>>> into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts.-a The BBB BB >>>> comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo UT), >>>> and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was >>>> too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite >>>> to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of course It is too >>>> thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and force it >>>> in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.-a Fingers crossed! >>>
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can slip
up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance problem I
would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND
new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares? Does spending more get you an axle that has
been more accurately machined and checked? I doubt it. I expect they
all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset, years ago. I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until this one is
good and worn out. By that time I might luxuriate on a Campagnolo
Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring
option (48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero clearance
between the chain ring bolts and the frame. It's the only reason I went Shimano, and the cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel
bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it
soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I
tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals,
swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a
new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.
Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't
rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and
bearings.-a (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic
spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a
groove in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the
bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover
off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when
reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to
the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing
and sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the
shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.
With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to
pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing
bolts.-a The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like
Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to
set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk
resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell
of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same
method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of
course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the
RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.
Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But
any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds
like a clearance problem I would suggest you try
replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an axle
that has been more accurately machined and checked?-a I doubt
it.-a I expect they all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset,
years ago.-a I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until
this one is good and worn out.-a By that time I might
luxuriate on a Campagnolo Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it
comes with an appropriate chain ring option (48/32) and
wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero
clearance between the chain ring bolts and the frame.-a It's
the only reason I went Shimano, and the cranks are the only
Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
On 8/19/2025 12:17 AM, James wrote:
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel
bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it
soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I
tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals,
swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a
new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks
returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't
rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and
bearings.-a (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic
spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into
a groove in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the
bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover
off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound
when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to
the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right
bearing and sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into
the shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.
With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to
pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing
bolts.-a The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload
(like Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to
set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk
resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the
smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same
method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of
course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the
RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.
Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But
any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds
like a clearance problem I would suggest you try
replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an
axle that has been more accurately machined and checked?
I doubt it.-a I expect they all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been
fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset,
years ago.-a I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until
this one is good and worn out.-a By that time I might
luxuriate on a Campagnolo Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it
comes with an appropriate chain ring option (48/32) and
wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero
clearance between the chain ring bolts and the frame.
It's the only reason I went Shimano, and the cranks are
the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
seems to me if you replace the BB with a different brand and
the problem re-occurs, it isn't likely the BB shaft that is
out of spec but the the crank arm - unless I missed something?
On 8/19/2025 5:56 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 12:17 AM, James wrote:
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike.-a It went >>>>>> together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon
developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I tried grease, >>>>>> tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.-a Cursing the >>>>>> Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on
plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings.-a (Shitmano >>>>>> bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer
between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in >>>>>> the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and
axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB >>>>>> bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when
reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and
sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/
bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on. With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust >>>>>> caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts.-a The >>>>>> BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like
Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but
there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk resurfaced and I >>>>>> disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the
loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the >>>>>> loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.-a Of course It >>>>>> is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and
force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula. Fingers crossed! >>>>>
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can
slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance
problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable >>>>> XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an axle that has
been more accurately machined and checked? I doubt it.-a I expect they
all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset, years ago.
I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until this one
is good and worn out.-a By that time I might luxuriate on a Campagnolo
Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring
option (48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero clearance
between the chain ring bolts and the frame. It's the only reason I
went Shimano, and the cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
seems to me if you replace the BB with a different brand and the
problem re-occurs, it isn't likely the BB shaft that is out of spec
but the the crank arm - unless I missed something?
The slop is between bearing assembly (including plastic sleeve) and the spindle.-a Loose left arm is a different (and common) problem, but not Mr Steward's problem.
On 8/19/2025 8:41 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/19/2025 5:56 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 12:17 AM, James wrote:
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel
bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but
it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I
tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals,
swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought
a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks
returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that
doesn't rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and
bearings.-a (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a
plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks
into a groove in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the
bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust
cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound
when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on
to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right
bearing and sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into
the shaft/ bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.
With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to
pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing
bolts.-a The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload
(like Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to
set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk
resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the
smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner
race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same
method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.
Of course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on
the RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula.
Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But
any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe
sounds like a clearance problem I would suggest you
try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new
crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an
axle that has been more accurately machined and checked?
I doubt it.-a I expect they all come through the same
process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been
fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset,
years ago. I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset
until this one is good and worn out.-a By that time I
might luxuriate on a Campagnolo Chorus 12 speed crank
set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring option
(48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero
clearance between the chain ring bolts and the frame.
It's the only reason I went Shimano, and the cranks are
the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
seems to me if you replace the BB with a different brand
and the problem re-occurs, it isn't likely the BB shaft
that is out of spec but the the crank arm - unless I
missed something?
The slop is between bearing assembly (including plastic
sleeve) and the spindle.-a Loose left arm is a different
(and common) problem, but not Mr Steward's problem.
And he has the same issue between two different bottom
brackets? Doesn't the bearing assembly get switched out with
a new bottom bracket?
On 8/18/2025 11:17 PM, James wrote:
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an axle that has
been more accurately machined and checked?-a I doubt it.-a I expect they
all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset, years ago.-a I
suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until this one is
good and worn out.-a By that time I might luxuriate on a Campagnolo
Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring
option (48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero clearance
between the chain ring bolts and the frame.-a It's the only reason I
went Shimano, and the cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
Right, it's not material or machining tolerance, it's the basic design itself.
So I'd say there is definitely a machining problem. Maybe 10/1000 inch >undersize for my GRX crank axle, and the axle isn't fretted and worn,
but it is polished now, after there being some movement over the past >20,000km or so.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:23:41 +1000, James <james.e.steward@gmail.com>
wrote:
So I'd say there is definitely a machining problem. Maybe 10/1000 inch
undersize for my GRX crank axle, and the axle isn't fretted and worn,
but it is polished now, after there being some movement over the past
20,000km or so.
Perhaps enlarging the axle diameter with electroplating or
electroforming might reduce the gap? I have zero experience with gap
filling using either process, but I think it might work. There's no
need to electroplate or electroform the entire surface of the axle.
Just mask off the areas where you don't want plating.
10/1000 inch, also known as 0.001 inch, will produce a 0.0005 gap.
In
theory, filling the gap with 0.0005 inch shim stock might work. <https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shim-stock/shim-stock-3~~/>
I don't know the composition of the axle, so I can't recommend a
suitable material for the shim. The material doesn't need to be the
same as the axle. What's needed is something that is galvanic
compatible.
To keep the shim from wrinkling, a suggest gluing it to the axle with
a thin and removable adhesive such as diluted rubber cement.
Good luck.
On 8/20/25 13:48, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:23:41 +1000, James <james.e.steward@gmail.com>
wrote:
So I'd say there is definitely a machining problem. Maybe 10/1000 inch
undersize for my GRX crank axle, and the axle isn't fretted and worn,
but it is polished now, after there being some movement over the past
20,000km or so.
Perhaps enlarging the axle diameter with electroplating or
electroforming might reduce the gap? I have zero experience with gap
filling using either process, but I think it might work. There's no
need to electroplate or electroform the entire surface of the axle.
Just mask off the areas where you don't want plating.
10/1000 inch, also known as 0.001 inch, will produce a 0.0005 gap.
10/1000 inch = 1/100 inch = 0.01 inch = 0.254 mm
In
theory, filling the gap with 0.0005 inch shim stock might work.
<https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shim-stock/shim-stock-3~~/>
I don't know the composition of the axle, so I can't recommend a
suitable material for the shim. The material doesn't need to be the
same as the axle. What's needed is something that is galvanic
compatible.
Copper electroplating using copper sulfate?
To keep the shim from wrinkling, a suggest gluing it to the axle with
a thin and removable adhesive such as diluted rubber cement.
Good luck.
I think I'll stick with a little glue for the time being.
Disassembly
might be fun, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:28:19 +1000, James <james.e.steward@gmail.com>
wrote:
On 8/20/25 13:48, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:23:41 +1000, James <james.e.steward@gmail.com>
wrote:
So I'd say there is definitely a machining problem. Maybe 10/1000 inch >>>> undersize for my GRX crank axle, and the axle isn't fretted and worn,
but it is polished now, after there being some movement over the past
20,000km or so.
Perhaps enlarging the axle diameter with electroplating or
electroforming might reduce the gap? I have zero experience with gap
filling using either process, but I think it might work. There's no
need to electroplate or electroform the entire surface of the axle.
Just mask off the areas where you don't want plating.
10/1000 inch, also known as 0.001 inch, will produce a 0.0005 gap.
10/1000 inch = 1/100 inch = 0.01 inch = 0.254 mm
Oops and thanks for the correction. Fortunately, a 0.005 in shim is
much easier to handle than a shim that's 10 times thinner.
In
theory, filling the gap with 0.0005 inch shim stock might work.
<https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shim-stock/shim-stock-3~~/>
I don't know the composition of the axle, so I can't recommend a
suitable material for the shim. The material doesn't need to be the
same as the axle. What's needed is something that is galvanic
compatible.
Copper electroplating using copper sulfate?
I think copper will be too soft. Copper (-0.35v) and aluminum
(-0.90v) will likely be a corrosion problem: <https://industrialmetalservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/galvanicseries-1016x1024.webp>
Methinks a 0.005 in aluminum shim will be tolerable. Dead soft will
probably be crushed. However, it's available in a variety of hardness levels. <https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shim-stock/shim-stock-3~~/material~aluminum-2/thickness~0-005/>
<https://www.mcmaster.com/9536K64/>
However, it seems to be painted, which might be a problem. Since the
shim will be glued and isn't moving, I think the paint will survive.
Notice that the shim material is made in Italy, which might be useful
to get Andrew's approval.
To keep the shim from wrinkling, a suggest gluing it to the axle with
a thin and removable adhesive such as diluted rubber cement.
Good luck.
I think I'll stick with a little glue for the time being.
Glue will work. Just make sure the glue is something that can later
be removed with a solvent or possibly with heat. You'll have a rather
large surface area, so the glue doesn't need to be very sticky or
strong. When wrapping it around the axle, leave a small gap to deal
with any thermal expansion and to prevent the shim from "rotating"
around the axle.
Disassembly
might be fun, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I'm not sure about which glue to recommend. It has to be fairly thin,
unless you want to start with a smaller thickness shim. The glue
should be soft and flexible, not hard and brittle. Thinned rubber
cement would be my first choice. Thinned fabric glue would be my 2nd
choice. Search for "flexible adhesive": <https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=flexible%20adhesive>
Also, do something to keep the glue out of the axle bearings.
For thinner or solvent, start with alcohol and work your way up to
acetone. Well, maybe not acetone because it attacks epoxy in carbon
fiber.
Good luck.
On 8/19/2025 12:39 PM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 8:41 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/19/2025 5:56 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 12:17 AM, James wrote:
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike.-a It went >>>>>>>> together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon
developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I tried grease, >>>>>>>> tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals, >>>>>>>> checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB. >>>>>>>>
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned.-a Cursing >>>>>>>> the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on >>>>>>>> plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings.
(Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer >>>>>>>> between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove >>>>>>>> in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and >>>>>>>> axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the >>>>>>>> BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when
reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft, >>>>>>>> applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and
sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/ >>>>>>>> bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on. With the left >>>>>>>> cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the >>>>>>>> dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts.-a The >>>>>>>> BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like
Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but >>>>>>>> there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk resurfaced and I >>>>>>>> disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the >>>>>>>> loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for >>>>>>>> the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks. Of course It >>>>>>>> is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and >>>>>>>> force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula. Fingers
crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can >>>>>>> slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance
problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or
suitable XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you an axle that
has been more accurately machined and checked? I doubt it.-a I
expect they all come through the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace crankset, years ago. >>>>> I suspect that the cause was the same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset until this one >>>>> is good and worn out.-a By that time I might luxuriate on a
Campagnolo Chorus 12 speed crank set, as it comes with an
appropriate chain ring option (48/32) and wider chain line than
their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost zero clearance
between the chain ring bolts and the frame. It's the only reason I
went Shimano, and the cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike. >>>>>
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
seems to me if you replace the BB with a different brand and the
problem re-occurs, it isn't likely the BB shaft that is out of spec
but the the crank arm - unless I missed something?
The slop is between bearing assembly (including plastic sleeve) and
the spindle.-a Loose left arm is a different (and common) problem, but
not Mr Steward's problem.
And he has the same issue between two different bottom brackets?
Doesn't the bearing assembly get switched out with a new bottom bracket?
Yes, on that system the spindle in integrated with the right crank. Cup
set with bearings and also left arm are separate.
On 8/19/2025 1:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/19/2025 12:39 PM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 8:41 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/19/2025 5:56 AM, zen cycle wrote:
On 8/19/2025 12:17 AM, James wrote:
On 8/19/25 07:48, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James-a wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my
gravel bike.-a It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but
it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side.-a I
tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals,
swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually
bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks
returned.-a Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that
doesn't rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and
bearings. (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a
plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks
into a groove in the
inner race.)-a However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the
bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust
cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound
when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on
to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right
bearing and sliding the
shaft into the BB.-a Then drip some more loctite
into the shaft/ bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on.
With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force
to pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank
fixing bolts.-a The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload
(like Campagnolo UT),
and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment
to set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set.-a When the clunk
resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the
smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner
race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same
method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks.
Of course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on
the RHS and force it
in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a
spatula. Fingers crossed!
GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions.
But any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you
describe sounds like a clearance problem I would
suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable
XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
Ultegra, 105, who cares?-a Does spending more get you
an axle that has been more accurately machined and
checked? I doubt it.-a I expect they all come through
the same process.
I've got a Sora triple on my touring bike, and it's
been fine.
A mate had a similar problem with his Dura Ace
crankset, years ago. I suspect that the cause was the
same.
What I want is to *not* need to buy another crankset
until this one is good and worn out.-a By that time I
might luxuriate on a Campagnolo Chorus 12 speed crank
set, as it comes with an appropriate chain ring option
(48/32) and wider chain line than their 10 speed.
I tried my 10 speed UT cranks and there was almost
zero clearance between the chain ring bolts and the
frame. It's the only reason I went Shimano, and the
cranks are the only Shimano parks on the bike.
I don't want Ekar because I like a 2x system.
seems to me if you replace the BB with a different
brand and the problem re-occurs, it isn't likely the BB
shaft that is out of spec but the the crank arm -
unless I missed something?
The slop is between bearing assembly (including plastic
sleeve) and the spindle.-a Loose left arm is a different
(and common) problem, but not Mr Steward's problem.
And he has the same issue between two different bottom
brackets? Doesn't the bearing assembly get switched out
with a new bottom bracket?
Yes, on that system the spindle in integrated with the
right crank. Cup set with bearings and also left arm are
separate.
Ah, so he just got new bearings and didn't replace the
spindle since it's part of the crankset...got it.
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate
a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap: <https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires
250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I couldn't find a suitable solvent.
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate
a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires
250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I
couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate
a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires
250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I
couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when
fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap: <https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes).
Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap.
To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I survive.
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate
a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires
250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when
fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes).
Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap.
To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I
survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
On 8/18/2025 4:28 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon Aug 18 12:11:33 2025 James wrote:
I bought a GRX crankset and shimano BB for my gravel bike. It went
together fine and I rode it for about 6 months, but it soon developed a
tick and then a clunk per rev on the drive side. I tried grease,
tightening bearing cups, preload, checked pedals, swapped pedals,
checked chain ring bolts, etc., and eventually bought a new BB.
After a few more months the clicks and clunks returned. Cursing the
Shimano BB, I bought a BBB bottom bracket, that doesn't rely on plastic
bushes to fill the 1mm gap between the shaft and bearings. (Shitmano
bearings are 25mm ID to fit a 24mm shaft with a plastic spacer between.
BBB use 24mm ID bearings, and the dust cap clicks into a groove in the
inner race.) However, the problem reoccurred.
After careful consideration and measurements of the bearings and axle,
I've concluded that the axle is undersized.
I was able to fairly easily pry the plastic dust cover off the BBB BB
bearings, and applied a little loctite 620 compound when reassembling.
This entailed slipping the right side dust cover on to the shaft,
applying some loctite to the shaft for the right bearing and sliding the >> shaft into the BB. Then drip some more loctite into the shaft/bearing
area on the left side, and putting the dust cap on. With the left
cranks and bearing preload nut, apply enough force to pop the dust caps
into the bearings before tightening the crank fixing bolts. The BBB BB
comes with a wave washer to apply constant preload (like Campagnolo UT), >> and unlike the Shimano style.
The loctite 620 relies on an anerobic environment to set, but there was
too much slop and it didn't set. When the clunk resurfaced and I
disassembled the cranks and BB, there was only the smell of the loctite
to be found, and none on the shaft or bearing inner race.
Now I've used some JB weld, applied using the same method as for the
loctite, and it's been good for a couple of weeks. Of course It is too
thick to drip, so I had to spread it on the axle on the RHS and force it >> in to the LHS axle/bearing interface with a spatula. Fingers crossed!
But the BB is different. Since the cank axle slips in all it takes is for the shaqft to not have been hardened correctly. Or for a misalignment of the BB and the haedened area of the axle shaft.GRX is gravel group designed for harsh conditions. But any QC can slip up. The sort of wear you describe sounds like a clearance problem I would suggest you try replacing it with a 105 or suitable XT BB AND new crank.
Which GRX?
GRX 800 level is Ultegra level already.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when
fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes).
Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap.
To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I
survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with
the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/>
I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
On 8/20/2025 4:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when
fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes).
Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap.
To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I >>>> survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with
the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/>
I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
tempered steel shim stock is a commodity. As are feeler
gauges if you only need a short length.
pick a thickness.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32019895
https://shop.awggases.com/flat-length-steel-feeler-gauges-0-0025-in-12-in-length
On 8/20/2025 4:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when
fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes).
Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap.
To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I >>>> survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with
the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/>
I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
tempered steel shim stock is a commodity. As are feeler
gauges if you only need a short length.
pick a thickness.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32019895
https://shop.awggases.com/flat-length-steel-feeler-gauges-0-0025-in-12-in-length
Ummm... bad idea. Feeler gauges are made from high carbon spring
steel. I suppose it can be wrapped around the worn crank spindle.
However, because the ends of the steel spring will be under tension, a
sharp corner could easily cut into the aluminum crank spindle.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 19:35:19 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 4:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the >>>>>>> 0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when >>>>> fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes). >>>>> Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap. >>>>> To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I >>>>> survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with
the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/>
I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
tempered steel shim stock is a commodity. As are feeler
gauges if you only need a short length.
pick a thickness.
0.005in thick. That should fill what appears to be a 0.010in gap
around the pedal bushing. Skimming the catalog, such a shim is
available in spring steel, 1010 mild steel, brass alloy, plastic,
aluminum, copper, nickel etc. I consider aluminum to be the best
choice due to minimal galvanic compatibility issues for aluminum to
aluminum.
0.0050in aluminum:
<https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32025843>
Various 0.0050in shim stock: <https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn?rd=k&searchterm=0.0050+shim+stock>
More to choose from the big catalog: <https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00050054>
See pages 1670 - 1672.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32019895
https://shop.awggases.com/flat-length-steel-feeler-gauges-0-0025-in-12-in-length
Ummm... bad idea. Feeler gauges are made from high carbon spring
steel. I suppose it can be wrapped around the worn crank spindle.
However, because the ends of the steel spring will be under tension, a
sharp corner could easily cut into the aluminum crank spindle.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:When was the last time you replace the bottom bracket for a two piece crankset? What so you know about uding locktite on bicycle components?
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate
a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the
0.005in gap: <https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires
250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I couldn't find a suitable solvent.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 19:35:19 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:Press fit into a properly designed and executed frame is fine. A bearinhg is press fit into a threaded sleeve.
On 8/20/2025 4:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just
not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the >>>>>> 0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when >>>> fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=3d2&q=3doxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=3dpackage%20shrink%20wrap&udm=3d2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=3dheat%20gun&udm=3d2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and
then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have
other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes). >>>> Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap. >>>> To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I >>>> survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with
the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/>
I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
tempered steel shim stock is a commodity. As are feeler
gauges if you only need a short length.
pick a thickness.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32019895
https://shop.awggases.com/flat-length-steel-feeler-gauges-0-0025-in-12-in-length
Is this a Shimano two part BB, threaded or press fit? I've had a
number of threaded BB's, no press fit (which seems like a poor design)
so my first effort to solve the question would be, "What does Shimano
say about the problem?"
On 8/20/2025 10:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 19:35:19 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 8/20/2025 4:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 15:49:49 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 8/20/2025 1:37 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 12:11:52 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
On 8/20/2025 12:02 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 20 Aug 2025 08:50:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>
Locktite has several products to fill excessive
shaft/bearing clearance and some can be very effective, just >>>>>>>>> not always:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html
Maybe. I followed the above link to Loctite 648. The specs indicate >>>>>>>> a maximum gap fill of 0.15mm (0.006in) which might work with the >>>>>>>> 0.005in gap:
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_6480.html>
<https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/retaining-with-loctite-retaining-compounds.html>
<https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/product-information-sheet-loctite-648-anaerobic-retaining-compound>
The gap also needs to be air tight (anerobic). To remove it requires >>>>>>>> 250C (482F) heat which might be a problem for the bearing lubricant. I >>>>>>>> couldn't find a suitable solvent.
Right, typical specs for that whole series. Pressing the
shaft and sleeve together makes an anaerobic fit so that's
not a problem in practice.
Good.
Loctite release temperature doesn't affect steel at all (but
can't be done nondestructively around paint. Or carbon
layups!). If you plan to re use a bearing (who does that?)
just pop out the seals and flush/fill.
I've had the problem of anaerobic glue taking forever to harden when >>>>>> fixing old sewing machines. My solution was to remove the oxygen
with:
<https://www.google.com/search?udm=2&q=oxygen%20absorber>
and embalm the joint with package shrink wrap:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=package%20shrink%20wrap&udm=2>
The package wrap is then shrunk in place with a common heat gun,
displacing all the air:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=heat%20gun&udm=2>
The hardening time went from about 8 hrs to a few minutes.
Different crank system but typical bearing with seal & tool
shown here:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/wfd25q.jpg
Hmmm... I wonder if just wrapping the crank with aluminum foil and >>>>>> then gluing the foil in place will work? I just measured some
Reynolds Wrap "heavy duty" foil at exactly 0.001in thick. (I have >>>>>> other foil thicknesses available but I don't want to open the boxes). >>>>>> Four or five wraps of this foil should might work for a 0.005in gap. >>>>>> To keep it from wrinkling or moving, a few drops of cyanoacrylate
(super glue) adhesive.
Gone for a free lunch and a service call. To be continued, assuming I >>>>>> survive.
As with any very thin shim, I strongly doubt a 0.001
anything can be installed intact in this or similar application.
I had the same doubt about 0.001in thin shims. I've been playing with >>>> the "heavy duty" Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil. I think it will
survive. If you have installation problems, use one or two layers of
foil instead of 4 or 5, and fill the gap with some kind of expanding
glue:
<https://www.hippoproducts.co.uk/product-details/hippo-expanding-glue/> >>>> I'll see if I can find something similar that's sold in USA. Also,
some aluminum foil that's thicker than 0.001in.
tempered steel shim stock is a commodity. As are feeler
gauges if you only need a short length.
pick a thickness.
0.005in thick. That should fill what appears to be a 0.010in gap
around the pedal bushing. Skimming the catalog, such a shim is
available in spring steel, 1010 mild steel, brass alloy, plastic,
aluminum, copper, nickel etc. I consider aluminum to be the best
choice due to minimal galvanic compatibility issues for aluminum to
aluminum.
0.0050in aluminum:
<https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32025843>
Various 0.0050in shim stock:
<https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn?rd=k&searchterm=0.0050+shim+stock>
More to choose from the big catalog:
<https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00050054>
See pages 1670 - 1672.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/32019895
https://shop.awggases.com/flat-length-steel-feeler-gauges-0-0025-in-12-in-length
Ummm... bad idea. Feeler gauges are made from high carbon spring
steel. I suppose it can be wrapped around the worn crank spindle.
However, because the ends of the steel spring will be under tension, a
sharp corner could easily cut into the aluminum crank spindle.
Spindle is hardened steel, as is the bearing in which it rides.
Is this a Shimano two part BB, threaded or press fit?
I've had a
number of threaded BB's, no press fit (which seems like a poor design)
so my first effort to solve the question would be, "What does Shimano
say about the problem?"
But the BB is different. Since the cank axle slips in all it takesThe first 2 bottom brackets I tried were Ultegra.
is for the shaqft to not have been hardened correctly. Or for a
misalignment of the BB and the haedened area of the axle shaft.
On 8/21/25 12:41, John B. wrote:
Is this a Shimano two part BB, threaded or press fit?
Threaded. Standard BSA 68mm BB shell. The cups screw into the shell
and the right side crank has the axle bonded too it. The left crank is >attached via 2 bolts that clamp it to a spline on the BB axle.
It's a very common setup. Search for Shimano Hollowtech cranks and
bottom bracket.
I've had a
number of threaded BB's, no press fit (which seems like a poor design)
so my first effort to solve the question would be, "What does Shimano
say about the problem?"
What would Shimano or any manufacturer say about it's product not being >machined accurately enough?
The BB axle is undersized and the result is a clearance between the axle
and bearing ID. The resulting play is noticeable as clicks and clunks
while pedaling, and can be felt and observed when pushing and pulling
the crank end laterally.
