From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

But it works fine on the adapter. Tried two sets of
new batteries. I suppose I'll open it up, but I thought
I'd ask about it first (since so many rabbits get pulled out
of hats here) and at least get some idea as to what to look for.

The unit sat in a box for some years, without batteries in it.
There is no sign of previous battery leakage in the battery
compartment.


Thanks,


Tobiah
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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

Tobiah <toby@tobiah.org> wrote:

But it works fine on the adapter. Tried two sets of
new batteries. I suppose I'll open it up, but I thought
I'd ask about it first (since so many rabbits get pulled out
of hats here) and at least get some idea as to what to look for.

The unit sat in a box for some years, without batteries in it.
There is no sign of previous battery leakage in the battery
compartment.

Has the power input plug bent the switching contact inside the socket so
that when you pull the plug out, the contact no longer springs back
properly? This can happen with oversized plugs or after a hefty
sideways tug on the power cable.

If you do open it up, check the solder pads holding the power socket to
the board, they can tear away from the tracks if the cable is tugged
sideways or the socket works loose.
--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

In article <uvbtm9$2g84q$1@dont-email.me>, Tobiah <toby@tobiah.org> wrote: >But it works fine on the adapter. Tried two sets of

new batteries. I suppose I'll open it up, but I thought
I'd ask about it first (since so many rabbits get pulled out
of hats here) and at least get some idea as to what to look for.

What's the no-load battery voltage on those?

Do the batteries charge in the charger?
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but this is embarrassing.
I opened the thing up, and wanted to go with the power jack idea.
I thought maybe there was a stuck switch inside that blocked battery
power when the adapter was plugged in. I thought I'd remembered
seeing such a thing.

Tunnel vision engaged, I spent way too much time trying to get the
amp board removed. I think the RCA plugs were holding it tight.
They seemed to have a metal flange on the outside of the plastic.

I never did get the board out, so I never got a good look at the
jack, but I could at least see that the solder connections were
not broken.

Tired and dejected, I buttoned up the machine and set it aside.

But do you think I'd hung a voltmeter on the battery compartment?
No way. Today I did better. I removed the battery tray and checked
the voltage coming out of it. Nada. It looked pristine. I had spun
all the batteries and all the contacts were clean. Tracing it down,
there was one positive pad that wasn't conducting. I mean I scraped
it with the voltmeter probe, and go nothing.

So I took a Dremel tool, and burnished the contacts. Of course
now the machine works fine again.

The only thing that worries me is that the contacts went from silver to
gold color. Would that be copper? Will I have the same problem in
short order having exposed the copper? Should I tin them?










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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

On 16/04/2024 1:52 pm, Tobiah wrote:

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but this is embarrassing.
I opened the thing up, and wanted to go with the power jack idea.
I thought maybe there was a stuck switch inside that blocked battery
power when the adapter was plugged in.-a I thought I'd remembered
seeing such a thing.

Tunnel vision engaged, I spent way too much time trying to get the
amp board removed.-a I think the RCA plugs were holding it tight.
They seemed to have a metal flange on the outside of the plastic.

I never did get the board out, so I never got a good look at the
jack, but I could at least see that the solder connections were
not broken.

Tired and dejected, I buttoned up the machine and set it aside.

But do you think I'd hung a voltmeter on the battery compartment?
No way.-a Today I did better.-a I removed the battery tray and checked
the voltage coming out of it.-a Nada.-a It looked pristine.-a I had spun
all the batteries and all the contacts were clean.-a Tracing it down,
there was one positive pad that wasn't conducting.-a I mean I scraped
it with the voltmeter probe, and go nothing.

So I took a Dremel tool, and burnished the contacts.-a Of course
now the machine works fine again.

The only thing that worries me is that the contacts went from silver to
gold color.-a Would that be copper?-a Will I have the same problem in
short order having exposed the copper?-a Should I tin them?

More like brass. I would treat them with Caig P5 Preserve-it , or
whatever the current name is.

geoff

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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

Tobiah <toby@tobiah.org> wrote:

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but this is embarrassing.
I opened the thing up, and wanted to go with the power jack idea.
I thought maybe there was a stuck switch inside that blocked battery
power when the adapter was plugged in. I thought I'd remembered
seeing such a thing.

Tunnel vision engaged, I spent way too much time trying to get the
amp board removed. I think the RCA plugs were holding it tight.
They seemed to have a metal flange on the outside of the plastic.

I never did get the board out, so I never got a good look at the
jack, but I could at least see that the solder connections were
not broken.

Tired and dejected, I buttoned up the machine and set it aside.

But do you think I'd hung a voltmeter on the battery compartment?
No way. Today I did better. I removed the battery tray and checked
the voltage coming out of it. Nada. It looked pristine. I had spun
all the batteries and all the contacts were clean. Tracing it down,
there was one positive pad that wasn't conducting. I mean I scraped
it with the voltmeter probe, and go nothing.

So I took a Dremel tool, and burnished the contacts. Of course
now the machine works fine again.

The only thing that worries me is that the contacts went from silver to
gold color. Would that be copper? Will I have the same problem in
short order having exposed the copper? Should I tin them?

Too late to help you now, but the corrosion from alkaline batteries
comes off easily when wiped with a cloth dampened with water.
Mechanically it is hard as nails and resistant to all sorts of
specialised cleaning solvents, but it dissolves in water.
--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

In article <1qs3y10.13el60y7m3gi8N%
liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid>,
liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid says...

...

Too late to help you now, but the corrosion from alkaline batteries
comes off easily when wiped with a cloth dampened with water.
Mechanically it is hard as nails and resistant to all sorts of
specialised cleaning solvents, but it dissolves in water.

Years ago I called up the Duracell manufacturer and asked
about cleaning up leakage. They said that a little bit of
vinegar (and water) would do it. Have used that many times
since.


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From Newsgroup: rec.audio.pro

In article <uvklkf$jfhg$1@dont-email.me>, Tobiah <toby@tobiah.org> wrote:

The only thing that worries me is that the contacts went from silver to
gold color. Would that be copper? Will I have the same problem in
short order having exposed the copper? Should I tin them?

It's phosphor bronze, which is springy (whereas copper is not). Yes,
it will corrode again. Tinning will help but put the thinnest possible
layer on it, because the solder will deform under pressure. Nickel plate
is better if you have a bottle of PC board nickel.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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