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I hope I can describe this well enough...
In <XnsB3628E9B3DE73nilch1@wheedledeedle.moc> Nil <rednoise9@rednoise9.invalid> writes:
I hope I can describe this well enough...
[snip of tale of woe]
Have you tried repairclinic.com ? They've
got access to a hefty supply chain.
Good luck
I hope I can describe this well enough...The parts have not vanished from the earth - they never got here.
My circa 2009 Kenmore (made by LG) refrigerator door has a plastic
"hook" on both side-by-side doors that helps draw the door fully closed
and sealed when it swings shut. The hook is part of a firm plastic >springloaded "retainer" that runs vertically alongside the outward edge
of the door, which also helps close the seal. This retainer is part of
the whole door gasket assembly. The retainer has broken so that the
hook is no longer attached. The hook is OK, it's the retainer that's
broken.
This video shows a similar LG model with exactly the same problem I
have, except mine is the left door:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy67jKCMMvA
I bought what was supposed to be an OEM replacement retainer from
Amazon. What I got is a poor copy of the original part and is >miscut/misshapen so the hook can't be secured in place. Useless. Parts
for this appliance seem to have mostly vanished from the earth and I
can't find either the retainer only or the whole retainer-hook assembly
like is shown in the video.
So now I'm wondering if I can repair the original retainer with glue, >perhaps with some other reinforcement. Two questions:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
- Any ideas or suggestions for how else to reinforce the retainer so
the hook doesn't break off again with normal use?
On 22 Sep 2025, danny burstein <dannyb@panix.com> wrote inBreak out the mini cnc mill and start writing G-Code
alt.home.repair:
In <XnsB3628E9B3DE73nilch1@wheedledeedle.moc> Nil
<rednoise9@rednoise9.invalid> writes:
I hope I can describe this well enough...
[snip of tale of woe]
Have you tried repairclinic.com ? They've
got access to a hefty supply chain.
Good luck
Well, I just checked there. The part I want is no longer available from >them. I will continue to search.
I can get the entire door gasket assembly... for $400 +. Considering
that it's only a half-inch piece of plastic that's broken off and the
rest works fine, and that the part I want would only cost $30 - $50 if >available... I'd rather not resort to that, especially for a 17-year-
old appliance that already has a couple (minor) issues.
I still hope to get some fix-it ideas from the brain trust here.
That's the biggest beef I've had with LG, going back to the days of
GoldStar monitors. (LG stands for Lucky Goldstar). Never HAVE been
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with JB Weld.
I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of epoxy. https://www.jbweld.com/products
On Mon, 22 Sep 2025 14:01:07 -0400, Nil <rednoise9@rednoise9.invalid>
wrote:
I hope I can describe this well enough...The parts have not vanished from the earth - they never got here.
My circa 2009 Kenmore (made by LG) refrigerator door has a plastic
"hook" on both side-by-side doors that helps draw the door fully closed >>and sealed when it swings shut. The hook is part of a firm plastic >>springloaded "retainer" that runs vertically alongside the outward edge
of the door, which also helps close the seal. This retainer is part of
the whole door gasket assembly. The retainer has broken so that the
hook is no longer attached. The hook is OK, it's the retainer that's >>broken.
This video shows a similar LG model with exactly the same problem I
have, except mine is the left door:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy67jKCMMvA
I bought what was supposed to be an OEM replacement retainer from
Amazon. What I got is a poor copy of the original part and is >>miscut/misshapen so the hook can't be secured in place. Useless. Parts
for this appliance seem to have mostly vanished from the earth and I
can't find either the retainer only or the whole retainer-hook assembly >>like is shown in the video.
So now I'm wondering if I can repair the original retainer with glue, >>perhaps with some other reinforcement. Two questions:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
- Any ideas or suggestions for how else to reinforce the retainer so
the hook doesn't break off again with normal use?
That's the biggest beef I've had with LG, going back to the days of
GoldStar monitors. (LG stands for Lucky Goldstar). Never HAVE been
able to get parts for them, at least in North America. Might be better
in Korea.
They were decent quality for the price back then, but if ANYTHING--- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
failed, the bin was the only cure.
On Mon, 22 Sep 2025 14:01:07 -0400, Nil
I bought what was supposed to be an OEM replacement retainer from
Amazon. What I got is a poor copy of the original part and is >>miscut/misshapen so the hook can't be secured in place. Useless.
Parts for this appliance seem to have mostly vanished from the
earth and I can't find either the retainer only or the whole
retainer-hook assembly like is shown in the video.
The parts have not vanished from the earth - they never got
here.
That's the biggest beef I've had with LG, going back to the days
of GoldStar monitors. (LG stands for Lucky Goldstar). Never HAVE
been able to get parts for them, at least in North America. Might
be better in Korea.
They were decent quality for the price back then, but if ANYTHING
failed, the bin was the only cure.
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with JB
Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of epoxy.
https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items even
stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room to do it
here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy would work
too.
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with JB
Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of epoxy.
https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items even
stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room to do it
here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy would work
too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work better for
some types than others. This part seems to be kind a "soft-sh" but
rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very brittle like
polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases, etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was cracked and
I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to repair it. It has
held up very well, though it's not subjected to stress like this repair >would be. This part would be subjected to lateral stress, which is why
the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely >disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that bit, >through the latch, and back into the lower part of the retainer. The
latch is held stationary but both the screw and a small tongue that
fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with JB
Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of epoxy.
https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items even
stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room to do it
here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy would work
too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work better for
some types than others. This part seems to be kind a "soft-sh" but
rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very brittle like
polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases, etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was cracked and
I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to repair it. It has
held up very well, though it's not subjected to stress like this repair >would be. This part would be subjected to lateral stress, which is why
the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely >disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that bit, >through the latch, and back into the lower part of the retainer. The
latch is held stationary but both the screw and a small tongue that
fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with JB
Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of epoxy.
https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items even
stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room to do it
here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy would work
too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work better for
some types than others. This part seems to be kind a "soft-sh" but
rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very brittle like
polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases, etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was cracked and
I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to repair it. It has
held up very well, though it's not subjected to stress like this repair
would be. This part would be subjected to lateral stress, which is why
the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely
disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that bit, through the latch, and back into the lower part of the retainer. The
latch is held stationary but both the screw and a small tongue that
fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
On Tue, 23 Sep 2025 12:58:29 -0400, Nil
<rednoise9@rednoise9.invalid> wrote:
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely >>disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that
bit, through the latch, and back into the lower part of the
retainer. The latch is held stationary but both the screw and a
small tongue that fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
can you put a "band" or "strap" around it to hold it together?
Kinda like using a zip tie, but brass or aluminum, with a small
bolt to hold it on??
On 9/23/2025 12:58 PM, Nil wrote:
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in
alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with
JB Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of
epoxy. https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items
even stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room
to do it here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy
would work too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work
better for some types than others. This part seems to be kind a
"soft-sh" but rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very
brittle like polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases,
etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was
cracked and I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to
repair it. It has held up very well, though it's not subjected to
stress like this repair would be. This part would be subjected to
lateral stress, which is why the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely
disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that
bit, through the latch, and back into the lower part of the
retainer. The latch is held stationary but both the screw and a
small tongue that fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
Tough to tell. I just see the one break. Epoxy and wrap around
with tape might fix it. Sheer strength is hard to over come as it
is much weaker than tensile or compressive strength.
Plastic hard to identify. Could be PE, nylon or Delrin.
On 24 Sep 2025, Frank <"frank "@frank.net> wrote in alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 12:58 PM, Nil wrote:
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in
alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with
JB Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of
epoxy. https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items
even stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room
to do it here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy
would work too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work
better for some types than others. This part seems to be kind a
"soft-sh" but rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very
brittle like polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases,
etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was
cracked and I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to
repair it. It has held up very well, though it's not subjected to
stress like this repair would be. This part would be subjected to
lateral stress, which is why the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely
disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that
bit, through the latch, and back into the lower part of the
retainer. The latch is held stationary but both the screw and a
small tongue that fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
Tough to tell. I just see the one break. Epoxy and wrap around
with tape might fix it. Sheer strength is hard to over come as it
is much weaker than tensile or compressive strength.
Plastic hard to identify. Could be PE, nylon or Delrin.
From the descriptions I find I suspect it's Delrin/acetal. Apparently
that stuff is hard to glue. One suggested glue is called "BONDiT B-
45TH". Expensive! $74 for 1.7 oz on Amazon. Yikes. Another is called
"Loctite All Go2" which would be cheap if it could be found anywhere,
but I can't, probably because it's toxic.
On 24 Sep 2025, Frank <"frank "@frank.net> wrote in alt.home.repair:drill and tap and throw in a long set-screw handles the shear
On 9/23/2025 12:58 PM, Nil wrote:
On 23 Sep 2025, Frank <address@is.invalid> wrote in
alt.home.repair:
On 9/23/2025 6:37 AM, badgolferman wrote:
On 09/22/2025 14:01, Nil wrote:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
I can't answer that specifically, but I've had good luck with
JB Weld. I glued a turn lever stalk back on with it and it held
indefinitely.
Check their website or call to find out the proper type of
epoxy. https://www.jbweld.com/products
Epoxy is best but also depends on the plastic. PE is hard to
stick to. I have over wrapped epoxy with carbon making items
even stronger than the original. Do not know if there is room
to do it here. Fiber glass or even window screen with epoxy
would work too.
I don't know my plastics and I'm aware that some glues work
better for some types than others. This part seems to be kind a
"soft-sh" but rigid plastic, maybe like nylon or teflon, not very
brittle like polystyrene (? - plastic utensils, CD jewel cases,
etc.)
I once made a repair on the very fridge - the deli tray was
cracked and I used epoxy, reinforced with mesh drywall tape, to
repair it. It has held up very well, though it's not subjected to
stress like this repair would be. This part would be subjected to
lateral stress, which is why the original sheared off over time.
This shows the break. The top bit of the retainer is completely
disconnected. Normally there is a screw driving down through that
bit, through the latch, and back into the lower part of the
retainer. The latch is held stationary but both the screw and a
small tongue that fits into a groove in the retainer.
https://imgur.com/YdQqSW9
Tough to tell. I just see the one break. Epoxy and wrap around
with tape might fix it. Sheer strength is hard to over come as it
is much weaker than tensile or compressive strength.
Plastic hard to identify. Could be PE, nylon or Delrin.
From the descriptions I find I suspect it's Delrin/acetal. Apparently
that stuff is hard to glue. One suggested glue is called "BONDiT B-
45TH". Expensive! $74 for 1.7 oz on Amazon. Yikes. Another is called >"Loctite All Go2" which would be cheap if it could be found anywhere,
but I can't, probably because it's toxic.
drill and tap and throw in a long set-screw handles the shear
problem - and helps the tensile as well
On 25 Sep 2025, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote in
alt.home.repair:
drill and tap and throw in a long set-screw handles the shear
problem - and helps the tensile as well
This I think will part of the solution. Now I need to find a screw
that's the same diameter and thread as the original short one but is 4-
5" long. That, plus gluing the broken bit and maybe supporting it with
some wire wrap, and I think it will be stronger than the original.
Good thing the fridge can still be used in this broken condition while
I/we figure it out.
I hope I can describe this well enough...--- Synchronet 3.21a-Linux NewsLink 1.2
My circa 2009 Kenmore (made by LG) refrigerator door has a plastic
"hook" on both side-by-side doors that helps draw the door fully
closed and sealed when it swings shut. The hook is part of a firm
plastic springloaded "retainer" that runs vertically alongside the
outward edge of the door, which also helps close the seal. This
retainer is part of the whole door gasket assembly. The retainer
has broken so that the hook is no longer attached. The hook is OK,
it's the retainer that's broken.
This video shows a similar LG model with exactly the same problem
I have, except mine is the left door:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy67jKCMMvA
I bought what was supposed to be an OEM replacement retainer from
Amazon. What I got is a poor copy of the original part and is miscut/misshapen so the hook can't be secured in place. Useless.
Parts for this appliance seem to have mostly vanished from the
earth and I can't find either the retainer only or the whole
retainer-hook assembly like is shown in the video.
So now I'm wondering if I can repair the original retainer with
glue, perhaps with some other reinforcement. Two questions:
- What kind of glue would work best for plastic of this type?
- Any ideas or suggestions for how else to reinforce the retainer
so the hook doesn't break off again with normal use?
Resolved! I hope...
I decided I needed a thin screw that was at least 4" long. I couldn't
find anything approriate at any local hardware store (nothing longer
than 3" unless it was way too thick) so I ended up buying a pack of 12
toggle bolts with 1/8" x 4" screws from Amazon, even though I only need
the one screw.
On 10/5/25 4:55rC>PM, Nil wrote:
Resolved! I hope...Was there a problem using 1/8" threaded rod , cut to length, as
I decided I needed a thin screw that was at least 4" long. I
couldn't find anything approriate at any local hardware store
(nothing longer than 3" unless it was way too thick) so I ended
up buying a pack of 12 toggle bolts with 1/8" x 4" screws from
Amazon, even though I only need the one screw.
suggested in a recent post ?