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Only hobby level now.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115334715488?_nkw=diamond+inserts+carbide+lathe&itmmeta=01J5Q723XNA0GREWTN8RFZEQK2&hash=item1ada7c1860:g:YyUAAOSwUtJiUKWN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnC8gu8jBQODZUzjY6nfSpuZas%2FJzGcWIYLgG5EPfxVgG0wH1c4QdrYrUHqD4z98NSE8atbz28SHAAsTTB%2FvXsdw1KSXcN7%2Bx6cwyg%2FcKXwvDq3eEqXZbpx%2Bzxtc0f0%2Fp0BsyoIUtnlZlJQI86p6TyhETkaZsGuuwYw1Ayo2CHAORe6WE1WiaDElO8xogeQY1mItmsxVxjRLhavW15vEW5hMGkyR8srWzmxrGq4dX%2B9yZ23zhsDDiiDdifsQ%2Bk8r7IRPefZ9T%
It says for non ferrous [..]The carbon in the diamond dissolves in iron and steel (and nickel
Can they be touched up if/when the edge goes?
I know its only a single but looks uncheap to me! C+
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:va0hrc$321n0$1@dont-email.me...
I have freehand ground a lot of things, and I can probably make an
adequate threading cutter, but a simple miter gage and slot in a tool
rest makes it achievable for nearly anybody. Even a puttering geezer.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------------------
So does a Univise on a surface grinder, when I want to be fussy. I
haven't seen a Baldor carbide grinder for less than $600.
On 20/08/2024 07:50, Charlie+ wrote:2FJzGcWIYLgG5EPfxVgG0wH1c4QdrYrUHqD4z98NSE8atbz28SHAAsTTB%2FvXsdw1KSXcN7%2Bx6cwyg%2FcKXwvDq3eEqXZbpx%2Bzxtc0f0%2Fp0BsyoIUtnlZlJQI86p6TyhETkaZsGuuwYw1Ayo2CHAORe6WE1WiaDElO8xogeQY1mItmsxVxjRLhavW15vEW5hMGkyR8srWzmxrGq4dX%2B9yZ23zhsDDiiDdifsQ%2Bk8r7IRPefZ9T%
On Sun, 18 Aug 2024 17:02:31 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote
as underneath :
On 7/30/2024 2:44 PM, Richard Smith wrote:Interesting thread Bob, thanks, is this example the type of tool you are
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
On 7/29/2024 11:38 PM, Richard Smith wrote:Thx for this detail.
I heard diamondMy apologies. I didn't at all mean something like a PVD diamond
* works for Ali because it has no solubility for Carbon
* does not work for irons/steels because the hard tool
"disappears" by
solution into the iron
?
coating. DCMT is a diamond shaped insert. Typically your find them >>>>> coated with TiN, uncoated, and occasionally with TiAlN or AlTiN
coatings. My point was these small geometry inserts that work so well >>>>> in under power under-rigid machines like the typical import 7-8 by
10-16 mini lathe also work on a heavier machine. If the big boy
inserts don't work these still do. In this case I was cutting 304
stainless steel. It improved the finish, didn't require sharpening,
had less heat input, and did the job much faster net elapsed time.
FYI: I do a fair amount of aluminum cutting, and generally I've found >>>>> bright sharp uncoated tools do the best job and have the best material >>>>> removal rate for me and leave a good finish. Diamond was popular when >>>>> I first started cutting aluminum on machine tools, and more recently >>>>> ZrN has become the popular coating. I've tried them and the simple >>>>> fact is a coated tool isn't as sharp. They might work better for
larger tools on larger machines, but on middle weight machines with
limited horsepower (5 or less) a bright sharp uncoated tool works best >>>>> for me. For high speed flood coolant makes the tool last without chip >>>>> welding, but coatings do not. On smaller tools horsepower isn't even >>>>> a factor as the tool can't take it anyway.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Interesting yes certainly.
Sorry "got the wrong end of the stick".
I used cutting insert tooling - aagh - 30 years ago.
Vertical milling shell-cutter on steel.
Did well - they'd never seen steel chip ejection like a chain-saw
cutting timber. Took a visit from the rep. who explained this is how >>>> the tooling is supposed to be used :-)
Coated carbide inserts - coating the gold coloured one - a Ti
nitride(?)
coating - for this steel.
Pushing it harder and harder. As I once offended Jim a little (sorry
Jim) over... time is money. Even if you are doing something for fun,
favor, self... time is still your most valuable nonrenewable resource.
I needed to make another batch of stainless mold cores today. (Stock
design that uses upto nine (9) 1.5in diameter cores to varY the size of
the casting. That's 18 cuts to true them up after they come off the
saw.
My new inserts arrived a few days ago ago, but I wantedif I could bump
up the speed a bit with that little hobby lathe size insert. I had been >>> using at at 300 RPM in low gear. That's a starting SFM of 117 if I have >>> done the math right. I am sure there are folks pushing big turning
centers orders of magnitude faster, but this is after all only a bigger
import lathe. Its still an import lathe, and while its relatively
heavy, its light for its size.
Of course the SFM drops as the diameter is reduced. Maybe I could go
faster if I cranked up the speed as I reduced the diameter, but this is
a single phase gear head lathe. The motor just turns one speed. The
time to stop it and change gears would eat up any time savings.
Just for the heck of it I decided to see how much faster I could start.
At 460 RPM the insert was still doing fine. Still using the same insert >>> I used when I started this thread. I don't mean the same type. I mean >>> the same insert. That means the insert was hitting the outside of the
stock at 180 SFM. The number doesn't sound much bigger, but the part
time was definitely faster.
A couple ends with an intact insert at that speed and I decided to try
the last couple parts at 755 RPM. 296 SFM. That was significantly
faster. Part time was a lot shorter, and the insert still looks like
when I started. (I'll look at under magnification later) It wasn't so >>> fast that I had any issue keeping up, but it was fast enough I couldn't
do anything else, like move the stock in the saw to cut the next rough
blank.
Now that I have spares I think next time I cut a batch of these cores I
am going to push it until I chip an insert to see just what they will
do.
Please bare in mind that these are relatively light cuts. The blanks
come off the saw at about 1.4" to 1.41" and get trued to 1.375".
talking about? Never come across the diamond tipped versions of inserts
but my original machining in industry experience was in the 1960's! Only
hobby level now..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115334715488?_nkw=diamond+inserts+carbide+lathe&itmmeta=01J5Q723XNA0GREWTN8RFZEQK2&hash=item1ada7c1860:g:YyUAAOSwUtJiUKWN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnC8gu8jBQODZUzjY6nfSpuZas%
It says for non ferrous but you are using on stainless without any red
spark? Can they be touched up if/when the edge goes? I know its only a
single but looks uncheap to me! C+
If you read Bob's post 30/7/2024 he clarifies he's not talking about
diamond tipped inserts but diamond shaped rhombic inserts.
That's true, but I did run across a reference (Stefan Gotteswinter video maybe) to an actual diamond attached to a tool.
There are also coatings that are called diamond, although most are
actually DLC "diamond like coatings."
On 20/08/2024 07:50, Charlie+ wrote:2FJzGcWIYLgG5EPfxVgG0wH1c4QdrYrUHqD4z98NSE8atbz28SHAAsTTB%2FvXsdw1KSXcN7%2Bx6cwyg%2FcKXwvDq3eEqXZbpx%2Bzxtc0f0%2Fp0BsyoIUtnlZlJQI86p6TyhETkaZsGuuwYw1Ayo2CHAORe6WE1WiaDElO8xogeQY1mItmsxVxjRLhavW15vEW5hMGkyR8srWzmxrGq4dX%2B9yZ23zhsDDiiDdifsQ%2Bk8r7IRPefZ9T%
On Sun, 18 Aug 2024 17:02:31 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote
as underneath :
On 7/30/2024 2:44 PM, Richard Smith wrote:Interesting thread Bob, thanks, is this example the type of tool you are
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
On 7/29/2024 11:38 PM, Richard Smith wrote:Thx for this detail.
I heard diamondMy apologies. I didn't at all mean something like a PVD diamond
* works for Ali because it has no solubility for Carbon
* does not work for irons/steels because the hard tool "disappears" by >>>>>> solution into the iron
?
coating. DCMT is a diamond shaped insert. Typically your find them >>>>> coated with TiN, uncoated, and occasionally with TiAlN or AlTiN
coatings. My point was these small geometry inserts that work so well >>>>> in under power under-rigid machines like the typical import 7-8 by
10-16 mini lathe also work on a heavier machine. If the big boy
inserts don't work these still do. In this case I was cutting 304
stainless steel. It improved the finish, didn't require sharpening,
had less heat input, and did the job much faster net elapsed time.
FYI: I do a fair amount of aluminum cutting, and generally I've found >>>>> bright sharp uncoated tools do the best job and have the best material >>>>> removal rate for me and leave a good finish. Diamond was popular when >>>>> I first started cutting aluminum on machine tools, and more recently >>>>> ZrN has become the popular coating. I've tried them and the simple
fact is a coated tool isn't as sharp. They might work better for
larger tools on larger machines, but on middle weight machines with
limited horsepower (5 or less) a bright sharp uncoated tool works best >>>>> for me. For high speed flood coolant makes the tool last without chip >>>>> welding, but coatings do not. On smaller tools horsepower isn't even >>>>> a factor as the tool can't take it anyway.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Interesting yes certainly.
Sorry "got the wrong end of the stick".
I used cutting insert tooling - aagh - 30 years ago.
Vertical milling shell-cutter on steel.
Did well - they'd never seen steel chip ejection like a chain-saw
cutting timber. Took a visit from the rep. who explained this is how
the tooling is supposed to be used :-)
Coated carbide inserts - coating the gold coloured one - a Ti nitride(?) >>>> coating - for this steel.
Pushing it harder and harder. As I once offended Jim a little (sorry
Jim) over... time is money. Even if you are doing something for fun,
favor, self... time is still your most valuable nonrenewable resource.
I needed to make another batch of stainless mold cores today. (Stock
design that uses upto nine (9) 1.5in diameter cores to varY the size of
the casting. That's 18 cuts to true them up after they come off the saw. >>>
My new inserts arrived a few days ago ago, but I wantedif I could bump
up the speed a bit with that little hobby lathe size insert. I had been >>> using at at 300 RPM in low gear. That's a starting SFM of 117 if I have >>> done the math right. I am sure there are folks pushing big turning
centers orders of magnitude faster, but this is after all only a bigger
import lathe. Its still an import lathe, and while its relatively
heavy, its light for its size.
Of course the SFM drops as the diameter is reduced. Maybe I could go
faster if I cranked up the speed as I reduced the diameter, but this is
a single phase gear head lathe. The motor just turns one speed. The
time to stop it and change gears would eat up any time savings.
Just for the heck of it I decided to see how much faster I could start.
At 460 RPM the insert was still doing fine. Still using the same insert >>> I used when I started this thread. I don't mean the same type. I mean
the same insert. That means the insert was hitting the outside of the
stock at 180 SFM. The number doesn't sound much bigger, but the part
time was definitely faster.
A couple ends with an intact insert at that speed and I decided to try
the last couple parts at 755 RPM. 296 SFM. That was significantly
faster. Part time was a lot shorter, and the insert still looks like
when I started. (I'll look at under magnification later) It wasn't so
fast that I had any issue keeping up, but it was fast enough I couldn't
do anything else, like move the stock in the saw to cut the next rough
blank.
Now that I have spares I think next time I cut a batch of these cores I
am going to push it until I chip an insert to see just what they will do. >>>
Please bare in mind that these are relatively light cuts. The blanks
come off the saw at about 1.4" to 1.41" and get trued to 1.375".
talking about? Never come across the diamond tipped versions of inserts
but my original machining in industry experience was in the 1960's! Only
hobby level now..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115334715488?_nkw=diamond+inserts+carbide+lathe&itmmeta=01J5Q723XNA0GREWTN8RFZEQK2&hash=item1ada7c1860:g:YyUAAOSwUtJiUKWN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnC8gu8jBQODZUzjY6nfSpuZas%
It says for non ferrous but you are using on stainless without any red
spark? Can they be touched up if/when the edge goes? I know its only a
single but looks uncheap to me! C+
If you read Bob's post 30/7/2024 he clarifies he's not talking about
diamond tipped inserts but diamond shaped rhombic inserts.
On 20/08/2024 07:50, Charlie+ wrote:2FJzGcWIYLgG5EPfxVgG0wH1c4QdrYrUHqD4z98NSE8atbz28SHAAsTTB%2FvXsdw1KSXcN7%2Bx6cwyg%2FcKXwvDq3eEqXZbpx%2Bzxtc0f0%2Fp0BsyoIUtnlZlJQI86p6TyhETkaZsGuuwYw1Ayo2CHAORe6WE1WiaDElO8xogeQY1mItmsxVxjRLhavW15vEW5hMGkyR8srWzmxrGq4dX%2B9yZ23zhsDDiiDdifsQ%2Bk8r7IRPefZ9T%
[...]
Only hobby level now..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115334715488?_nkw=diamond+inserts+carbide+lathe&itmmeta=01J5Q723XNA0GREWTN8RFZEQK2&hash=item1ada7c1860:g:YyUAAOSwUtJiUKWN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnC8gu8jBQODZUzjY6nfSpuZas%
Those are PCD polycrystalline diamond tipped inserts. Diamond crystals
in a cobalt alloy matrix. For very hard materials sometimes, but far
more often for extreme wear resistance.
It says for non ferrous [..]The carbon in the diamond dissolves in iron and steel (and nickel
alloys), so they don't last long on steel. You can use CBN cubic boron >nitride on steel etc for longer life, about the same price.
Hobby level chaps (and most small-batch pros, indeed most pros) should >generally stick to HSS or carbide, unless they are doing something unusual.
Can they be touched up if/when the edge goes?
No. Carbide inserts can sometimes be touched up with diamond (though
it's usually not worth doing unless you want something special), but not
PCD or CBN.
I know its only a single but looks uncheap to me! C+
Last time I bought any they were ú20-odd each, and that was years ago.
Peter Fairbrother