• 309SS or ER70S6

    From Snag@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jul 23 08:03:38 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
    his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
    the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
    head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
    abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
    with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
    consideration . Replacement pins are available ...
    --
    Snag
    Illegitimi non carborundum

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Tue Jul 23 10:12:10 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...

      My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
    his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
    the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
    head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
    abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
    with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
    consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

    I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
    out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
    tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call back
    from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's going to
    be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8" in
    diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking off
    a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a depth
    setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but I want
    to check with him to be sure .
    --
    Snag
    Illegitimi non carborundum

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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Snag on Tue Jul 23 16:55:55 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    On 23/07/2024 16:12, Snag wrote:
    On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...

       My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
    his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
    the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
    head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
    abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
    with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
    consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

      I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
    out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
    tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
    back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
    going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
    in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
    off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
    depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
    I want to check with him to be sure .

    If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
    jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
    quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
    It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile
    considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's
    beyond saving.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to David Billington on Tue Jul 23 12:13:53 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    On 7/23/2024 10:55 AM, David Billington wrote:
    On 23/07/2024 16:12, Snag wrote:
    On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...

       My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of >>> his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on >>> the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the >>> head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
    abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
    with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
    consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

      I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
    out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
    tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
    back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
    going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
    in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
    off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
    depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
    I want to check with him to be sure .

    If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
    jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
    quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
    It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's beyond saving.


    I'm using an Everlast Powertig 250EX set at 25 amps with 15CFM argon
    shield . I cut up a soda can to help keep shield gas on the part .
    Filler was 3 .030" strands of ER70S6 solid MIG wire twisted together .
    --
    Snag
    Illegitimi non carborundum

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Tue Jul 23 12:01:09 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    On 7/23/2024 6:03 AM, Snag wrote:
      My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
    his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
    the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
    head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
    abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
    with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
    consideration . Replacement pins are available ...


    Sounds like its done.

    I once sat down to make a new box shaped blade clamp for a Craftsman reciprocating saw. (Like a Sawszall.) I had picked out a piece of
    metal, started taking measurements, and headed in to the computer to
    model it up... a couple days later the brand new replacement part
    arrived in a mail and it was only a couple dollars. It wasn't critical
    to have it that day. I already had a newer Milwaukee SuperSawszall if I
    needed one. I just hated having a useless tool on the shelf.

    I agree that ordering the part was probably cheaper than the value of
    your time, but to everybody else... there is some value to having your
    neighbor "owe you one."



    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Tue Jul 23 14:50:01 2024
    XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding

    On 7/23/2024 2:01 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 7/23/2024 6:03 AM, Snag wrote:
       My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin
    of his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has
    wear on the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding
    against the head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS
    for better abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard ,
    can be marked with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is
    also a consideration . Replacement pins are available ...


    Sounds like its done.

    I once sat down to make a new box shaped blade clamp for a Craftsman reciprocating saw.  (Like a Sawszall.)  I had picked out a piece of
    metal, started taking measurements, and headed in to the computer to
    model it up...  a couple days later the brand new replacement part
    arrived in a mail and it was only a couple dollars.  It wasn't critical
    to have it that day. I already had a newer Milwaukee SuperSawszall if I needed one.  I just hated having a useless tool on the shelf.

    I agree that ordering the part was probably cheaper than the value of
    your time, but to everybody else... there is some value to having your neighbor "owe you one."




    There are half a dozen of us here in The Holler that trade materials
    and favors all the time . Nobody keeps track .
    --
    Snag
    Illegitimi non carborundum

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