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First off let me say I "can" gap weld steel. I prefer a good fit-up,
proper bevels, and most importantly, nobody inspecting my work, but...
I've got a situation where I cut a part in two with a grinder and a zip
disc to only use part of it, and now I've decided that was a mistake. Or rather the application has evolved to a point where the original part
would be better. I don't have to make it exactly like it was, but kinda sorta close maybe might be nice.
If it was aluminum and I was in a similar situation I'd grab one of the
piece of stainless bar stock I keep for aluminum backing and just do it.
I'd probably clamp it up, weld it up from one side, back grind it with
a burr, and weld the other side.
This is steel. While its not any kind of acceptable practice if I tried
the solution above it would weld right into the stainless steel backer.
Is there any shade tree backing I could use beside buying an expensive
piece of graphite?
I know. I know. The true correct shade tree engineering method is to
just gap weld it. LOL.
On 2/28/2025 4:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
First off let me say I "can" gap weld steel. I prefer a good fit-up,
proper bevels, and most importantly, nobody inspecting my work, but...
I've got a situation where I cut a part in two with a grinder and a
zip disc to only use part of it, and now I've decided that was a
mistake. Or rather the application has evolved to a point where the
original part would be better. I don't have to make it exactly like
it was, but kinda sorta close maybe might be nice.
If it was aluminum and I was in a similar situation I'd grab one of
the piece of stainless bar stock I keep for aluminum backing and just
do it. I'd probably clamp it up, weld it up from one side, back
grind it with a burr, and weld the other side.
This is steel. While its not any kind of acceptable practice if I
tried the solution above it would weld right into the stainless steel
backer. Is there any shade tree backing I could use beside buying an
expensive piece of graphite?
I know. I know. The true correct shade tree engineering method is to
just gap weld it. LOL.
A chunk of thick aluminum should work . Steel won't weld to it , and
it will chill your weld . Since you're going to gouge and weld the back
side too I don't think that would be a problem ... any chance you might
have a chunk of Al that would suit ? <sfsf>
On 2/28/2025 4:31 PM, Snag wrote:
On 2/28/2025 4:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
First off let me say I "can" gap weld steel. I prefer a good fit-up,
proper bevels, and most importantly, nobody inspecting my work, but...
I've got a situation where I cut a part in two with a grinder and a
zip disc to only use part of it, and now I've decided that was a
mistake. Or rather the application has evolved to a point where the
original part would be better. I don't have to make it exactly like
it was, but kinda sorta close maybe might be nice.
If it was aluminum and I was in a similar situation I'd grab one of
the piece of stainless bar stock I keep for aluminum backing and just
do it. I'd probably clamp it up, weld it up from one side, back
grind it with a burr, and weld the other side.
This is steel. While its not any kind of acceptable practice if I
tried the solution above it would weld right into the stainless steel
backer. Is there any shade tree backing I could use beside buying an
expensive piece of graphite?
I know. I know. The true correct shade tree engineering method is
to just gap weld it. LOL.
A chunk of thick aluminum should work . Steel won't weld to it , and
it will chill your weld . Since you're going to gouge and weld the
back side too I don't think that would be a problem ... any chance you
might have a chunk of Al that would suit ? <sfsf>
I have piles of the stuff. <G>