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On Thu, 13 Feb 2025 17:50:17 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.
I grabbed a couple RAM 3500 front 4x4 wheel bearing/hub assemblies
being tossed by a friend. Thought one would make a great base to mount
to the floor for spinning something on top of it. They already have
bolts or threaded holes on both sides and a bearing. They didn't run
right on the road but for something like this you wouldn't notice.
A smaller version is this Impala front wheel hub/bearing
assembly:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2015,impala,3.6l+v6,3308755,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+hub,7632
On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:49:49 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing >> for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops >> I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of >> my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw
These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.
A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays🤷
On 2/14/2025 11:37 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:49:49 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are
easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing >>> for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter
bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops >>> I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of >>> my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw
These wheel bearing/hubs are throw aways. There was no provision in
them for repacking the bearing or replacing it. So if you checked
around the repair shops you could probably get them for free. A lot of
times they make noises while driving but would be suitable for what Bob
wants to do. Mount one to the floor and another overhead to ceiling.
Put flanges on a pipe, channel... that matches bolt pattern on the hub.
Or find a tire rim that fits them if that would work better in some way.
A lot of my old sources for stuff have disappeared too. I think part of
it is liability worries and businesses being regulated/taxed beyond
reason nowadays?
I still have the OEM wheels off that truck Chevy truck I mentioned. I
used one for a concrete filled base for a grinder pedestal. The others
I had planned for hose hangers. Dang it. I'm never going to be able to >throw anything away ever again am I?
--You can be guaranteed you will not find a use for it until 3 days
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173
The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to. I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in >tension may be why its rated as high as it is. The brace won't buckle
in tension.
I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason. It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my >under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.
This toy won't do it, but it brings to mind that I may be way over
thinking how much steel is required for what I want to do with one.
1300 lbs is a lot. More than a big block V8. More than a 250HP
outboard. A lot more than a 5th wheel companion hitch. More than a
field harvest citrus box full of folding tables or folding chairs.
The big negative for me for this application is the brace in tension
(strut?) reduces the maximum vertical height.
This does not take away my desire for a gantry crane. It would just
fill a very small niche in the shop.
I actually might be interested in the one in the link above for working
over my manual mill and lathe. Or even a lighter version. The 100lb
vise I sometimes lift on and off the mill table, and the awkward lathe
chucks I don't change often for fear of dinging the ways would certainly >justify 71.99.
--A bit of a dangerous wonky design. There is no compression member at
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
https://www.vevor.com/electric-wire-rope-hoist-c_10453/vevor-electric-hoist-support-arm-1320-lbs-max-load-capacity-electric-hoist-holder-swing-arm-with-pole-steel-hoist-frame-180-swivel-scaffold-hoist-lifting-arm-winch-hoist-arm-for-workshop-garage-p_010680499173
The first thing I note is its going to be very limited by the vertical
you bolt it to. I'm not clear how long the arm is, and the support in tension may be why its rated as high as it is. The brace won't buckle
in tension.
I'd like to have a jib crane just inside a 12'H x 10'W overhead door.
Its a silly reason. It might be handy for a few things, but the main
one is to reach out side and lift the 5th wheel companion (locks into my under bed goose neck hitch) out of the bed of the truck, swing it inside
and set it on a relatively high shelf out of the way.
This toy won't do it, but it brings to mind that I may be way over
thinking how much steel is required for what I want to do with one. 1300
lbs is a lot. More than a big block V8. More than a 250HP outboard. A lot more than a 5th wheel companion hitch. More than a field harvest
citrus box full of folding tables or folding chairs.
The big negative for me for this application is the brace in tension
(strut?) reduces the maximum vertical height.
This does not take away my desire for a gantry crane. It would just
fill a very small niche in the shop.
I actually might be interested in the one in the link above for working
over my manual mill and lathe. Or even a lighter version. The 100lb
vise I sometimes lift on and off the mill table, and the awkward lathe
chucks I don't change often for fear of dinging the ways would certainly justify 71.99.
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:vofk18$1ptvj$1@dont-email.me...
I might support the horizontal beam with Grade 100 chain and add a rope and pulley to swivel it up out of the way.
--------------------------------
I've previously suggested a boat trailer winch for hoisting and forgot
to mention that they spin dangerously when lowering vertical loads if
the handle slips from your grip. With a rope you can at least use the
tiedown cleat as a friction drag.
The Vestil lift I ordered for Segway had a cable winch with a built-in lowering brake which I haven't seen available separately.
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/vestil-llw-202058-fw-mobile-steel-lite- load-winch-lifter-with-20-square-platform-and-rolling-handle-500-lb- capacity/736LLW20205.html?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vog5tf$1t6cl$1@dont-email.me...
On 2/11/2025 11:01 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
... boat winch fault ...
I'm not at all a fan of boat winches for lifting. They do one thing,
and they don't do that all that well. I know. There are a few of them
on trailers out front, along side, and inside my shop right now clipped
to boats.
I have gotten quite good at tying a bowline to affect a field repair of
a broken strap, and I've gone for a swim to recover a boat a couple
times. I'm very familiar with the boat winches.
The lighter cheaper boat winches have steel cables, but many of the
middle weight have nylon straps that all break eventually about an or or
so behind the stitching. I can't recall if they heavier ones on my
dad's old sport fishers have nylon straps or steel cables, but I'll have
to look at them eventually. They are among the things I need to sell
sooner or later.
The handles tend to be relatively flimsy, easily bent, and connected
with a slot onto an oval end shaft with a nut. Often that part comes
apart as well. Some people cringe when I weld a handle back on, but the weld will outlast the rest of the winch.
No. Boat winches are only marginally not terrible at one thing.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
-------------------------------------
I use them for lack of a better inexpensive alternative. Mine are
acceptable after replacing the axles with Grade 8 bolts and better
bushings and aligning the gears. Synthetic winch cable is safer to
handle and doesn't spring loose on the reel. The upgrades are only on
loan and can be passed on after one fails.
I might try the HF with its worm gear lubed with the dry moly grease I
bought for the 6-jaw.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vogqb3$20scn$1@dont-email.me...
On 2/11/2025 4:41 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I use [boat winches] for lack of a better inexpensive alternative.
A come-a-long, while slower, is marginally safer when operated correctly
and it is actually rated for lifting. Yes, they tend to be a little
more expensive, but not prohibitively so. I have used a come-a-long for things like lifting a burnt-out compressor out the center of a
condensing unit with a straight bar and a ladder. No fear of failure.
I've got a couple of them for such tasks. I also have a couple chain
falls.
Heat and UV eats up synthetic winch cable. All the cool kids in the off road community use the stuff, but all three of my electric
loading/recovery winches have steel cable. I run steel on my electric recovery/loading winches because I tend to run solo so the only one who
could stupidly stand right next to it is me, and I don't use them all
that often so I would rather they didn't sun rot before the next time I
need it.
Its a choice. Much greater longevity VS some protection against stupidity. If I did the weekend group trail rides I would switch to synthetic on my primary off road vehicle.
---------------------------------------
Thanks for the info. I bought the synthetic cable for an ATV winch but
never installed it. The boat winch I put it on mostly stays in a shed,
and last summer was under the rain shelter for the gantry and sawmill.
It happened that the track hoisting (not supporting) winch on the sunny
end tripod had steel cable and I did all the gantry track leveling with
the shaded synthetic cable winch. There was a lot of readjustment
because after sawing the lighter logs I upgraded the gantry hardware for
two 4000+ lb logs. What I post about hoisting is from personal
experience studying for, designing, building and using the equipment.
I began logging with generic lever cable pullers, to pull down trees
lodged against others or guide ones likely to be. The cheap ones wore
out very quickly and greasing them made little difference. Replacing the axles with harder steel bolts and shimming for better alignment partly helped, the ratchets were next to fail. When I figured out how to join
fence posts into folding tripods to lift firewood logs off the rocky
ground and spare my back from bending over with a heavy chainsaw they
were useless because of their length, so I switched to shorter lever
chain hoists. With one exception these were so much more satisfactory
and durable that I parked all the come-alongs. The 1000 and 1500 Lb
hoists get the most use. I need one at each end to center the wider logs
on the sawmill track.
The lever chain hoists are about as good as come-alongs for horizontal
pulls on dry ground, and better than chainfalls whose hand chain doesn't
feed well horizontally. If I expected I might get stuck without a
mounted winch I'd bring my 2000 Lb x 12' lever chain hoist from Northern Tool. It has pulled a trailer load up a hill too steep for my tractor.
I've had four chain hoists in use at once lifting a shed on and off a construction trailer.
A 2" ratchet cargo strap can pull 1000 Lbs (measured) in short steps and
may be useful for unintentional recovery and towing in addition to tie-
down.
Its secured to the floor and "ceiling" with what
seems like tapered roller bearings top and bottom.
t seems a toss-up whether large bearings or shafts to mount them on are >easier/harder to find as surplus. I tend toward galvanized pipe and tubing >for their availability, perhaps more than their suitability. Adapter >bushings are within my 10" lathe's capacity. The scrapyards and small shops >I once used as metal sources have gone away, and the small sizes of most of >my projects rarely justify buying full mill lengths of stock.
jsw