On 2/4/2025 5:33 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vnrjpm$1gfoa$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/3/2025 4:20 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

https://www.amazon.com/Lathe-Dividing-Plate-Indexing-Dividend/dp/
B0D5NF5T8Y

I'd want to index most on my 14x40 which has a D1-5 Spindle nose.  I
can't put anything between that and the adapter plate.  Technically I
could put something between an adapter plate and a chuck, but I would
prefer to index at the back of the head where it is completely out of
the way.  I need to make a spider for it someday as well.  Probably make both setups at the same time.  I'd just CNC the indexing plate on one of
the mills for whatever I needed.  I am sure it will be "close enough."
If I need to try to chase decimal plates I might make it on the big
manual knee mill with the DRO instead.  I don't know how I would QC it though.  I guess the end part would have to be the QC.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-----------------------------------------

I seriously considered drilling index holes in the rim of the backplates
if I could mount them on my dividing head accurately enough. The 4" and smaller chucks on 5C mounts can index in milling fixtures. A larger
diameter index disk with an alignment recess could be screwed to a D1-5 backplate.

5C chuck mounts, listed under 5C instead of backplates: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php? ProductID=5479&category=-199764519

The spiders I made clamp onto only the work piece, not the spindle,
which makes them simple and non burring on the spindle, though possibly dangerous on a faster lathe. One slips over the spindle end, the other
into the collet closer tube. The collet closer spider is a self-
centering bored-out 1/2" Multicraft chuck. The nose end fits into the
tube and pins pressed into the key holes allow tightening. Shafts larger
than 1/2" don't whip at the low speed of my 60 year old lathe .

I needed to index 68 for a steering sector gear and 13 for a motorcycle
drive sprocket, neither matching an index disk. I used a 52 tooth change
gear from the AA lathe for 13, and cut the spline slots slightly too
narrow so the hardened sprocket shaved them to a snug press fit.

I think the QC process for an index disk is to turn two pins to a light
press fit in the holes and measure across adjacent pairs of them with
your best mike, similar to using toolmakers buttons for jig boring
accuracy. Only the differences between measurements matters.

I don't see why it would any any harder to indicate in than anything
else you put on it. Face up, and indicate in center of rotation of
disc. Face right (or left) and indicate in perpendicular to travel.
Indicate center with half function. Drill, ream, rotate, Drill, ream, rotate,Drill, ream, rotate... it wouldn't be hard. Just tedious.

USE A STUB (screw machine length) DRILL.

You have an Indicol (or clone or home made holder) and a test indicator
right?
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 2/4/2025 8:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vnuhr0$23q2d$1@dont-email.me...

You have an Indicol (or clone or home made holder) and a test indicator right?
--
Bob La Londe
---------------------------

I have a shop-made indicator holder customized to the Clausing's spindle diameter and a B&S BesTest graduated to 0.00005". Mostly they tell me
that my machines are very old.

You can make fairly accurate parts on a sloppy machine. DROs and gibb
locks help a lot with that.


--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 2/5/2025 11:24 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vnuhr0$23q2d$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/4/2025 5:33 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I seriously considered drilling index holes in the rim of the
backplates if I could mount them on my dividing head accurately enough.

I don't see why it would any any harder to indicate in than anything
else you put on it.  Face up, and indicate in center of rotation of
disc.  Face right (or left) and indicate in perpendicular to travel. Indicate center with half function.  Drill, ream, rotate, Drill, ream, rotate,Drill, ream, rotate... it wouldn't be hard.  Just tedious.

USE A STUB (screw machine length) DRILL.

You have an Indicol (or clone or home made holder) and a test indicator right?
--
Bob La Londe

--------------------------------------

The issue isn't indicating, it's clamping a large threaded backplate (or similar) to my hobby-sized indexing equipment. The Clausing's spindle to table clearance limits the height of work pieces and table accessories.
I located the old sector gear for setup and then the blank for cutting
on a 1/2" centering plug before bolting them to the rotary table.  I
milled the teeth on it horizontally, at its center height.

A Clausing is very nice for making -small- parts. An RF-31 has a larger
work envelope. This is the upgraded model with a taller column. Notice
that it's drilling with a collet instead of,. a chuck, which I sometimes
have to do for clearance. https://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/ Clausing_8520_Cover.png

Machinery's hand book trig tables, sine plate, tilt the head. Nah, now
its getting hard. Not impossible. Just hard. LOL. The thing is once
you get it dialed in its still just rotate drill ream, rotate drill
ream...Oh, yeah, rotate in only one direction if you are really chasing
decimal places.

I drill with a collet for the same reason all the time even on this
machine.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/south-bend-10-x-54-5-hp-single-phase-mill-with-dro/sb1028f

In fact I have made my own split collets for sizes like #7 and #21 to
slip inside the native R8 spindle collets. I have also moved the head
off to one side and hung the part out past the table, clamped to the
face of a right angle plate. This adds a couple feet to the height of a
part I can drill. I prefer not to move the head around if I don't have
to though. Hence why I use collets sometimes instead of the Tegara
integrated shank drill chuck.

I'm not a fan of Grizzly, but this machine is a beast. It was also only $19,995 when I bought mine.





--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 10/18/2021 6:37 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

(My server didn't save the contents of that old post)

Wow! Its been a while. I finally made a place for it, cleaned up a
path, moved it, and jacked it down off the furniture movers its been
sitting on all this time. I hope I haven't used the place on the wall
where I hang the furniture movers for something else.

It was a little bit of a chore. I took out a barrel of chips so the
furniture movers would roll. Then I gathered up some blocks to crib it
up and down. When I had set the first set of blocks under the lathe I discovered it had leveling bolts. They had just been screwed up flush.
I screwed them down on the light end and set them on aluminum pads.
When I started on the heavy end I found one of them was missing. Of
course 9/16-12 is not a common size I keep in my hardware supply. I
stuck a smaller bolt through the hole and put a nut on the bottom to
make it adjustable. I didn't want to leave it hanging on the toe jacks
or setting on wood blocks.

After I got it set down on the bolts (on aluminum pads, I discovered two
of them are stripped out. It teetered back and forth on the other two
like me after a long weekend when I was in my 20s.

During this I ordered some 9/16-12 bolts from McMaster, fortunately
along with some nuts and heavy washers.

I also ordered a small cheap static (electronic) phase converter for it.
I'm going to try and run it just like it was designed. If I don't
like that I can always swap in a VFD at a later time.

Who knows Snag. I might actually have to start looking for a chuck soon
for that arbor I got from you. I'll mostly run standard 5C collets, but
having a chuck may save the day at some point. The lathe did also come
with an unused/uncut pie collet. I'm not sure if I am looking forward
to the day when that is the answer to a problem or not.

Made a place for it: That was really kind of good/bad thing. Some
years back Grizzly had a sale on a 3 phase (internal VFD) vertical
bandsaw. They titled it (optimistically) as a wood and metal cutting
saw. Technically it would cut metal, like almost all wood working tools
can cut aluminum. It had nearly zero torque at steel cutting SFM. I did
cut a couple pieces of steel with it, but it was torturous. For the
last few years I've done any vertical metal cutting by tipping up one of
the horizontals. I had the vertical bandsaw listed on Facebook market
place off and on for years, and I really begrudged the space it was
taking up. Finally somebody offered me half what I paid for it, and I
snapped it up. I didn't really think of it at the time, but it turned
out to probably be the best place in the shop for that turret lathe... a
barrel and a half of chips later. Thank goodness for scoop shovels.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 2/3/2025 5:50 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vnp9i2$sm3o$1@dont-email.me...

... I'll mostly run standard 5C collets, but
having a chuck may save the day at some point.  The lathe did also come
with an unused/uncut pie collet.  I'm not sure if I am looking forward
to the day when that is the answer to a problem or not.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-------- My limited experience with 5C pot collets is that all but the shortest tubing, bushings etc should be held in axially as well by the tailstock, perhaps with a pipe center or large fender washer, and
trimmed to length in the better restrained grip of a 6-jaw. I save hole
saw and Greenlee cutouts for such purposes.

Most turret lathes don't have a proper tailstock. The turret is the
tail stocks. That being said I "also" have a removable tailstock turret
I use in the little 8.5x18 Harbor Freight lathe. I do have a proper
set-tru 6 jaw that I almost always leave on the 14x40 Precision Mathews.

I was given a "Precise SC 42" CNC spindle by a scrap dealer. Fischer USA emailed me the manual for it, which assumes it's connected to their controller and doesn't mention the motor drive specs.

I don't really know what that is? Picture? Sounds like a small high
speed high frequency 3 phase spindle from what I have read.

Do you have any
experience or suggestions concerning their electrical requirements?

Base voltage is probably at max frequency, but I wouldn't know for sure.
For example most of my high speed spindles are 230V at 400hz. You can probably get that from the manual. I only found a couple mentions on
line with queries similar to yours. If you are not sure of the wires
its pretty simple to find out. If it has four wires one of them is
likely case ground and the other three are the legs of the windings.
After that you would need to find rotation. There is a meter that can
help you find phase rotation. I have one, but I don't know how to use
that feature. I've always just the power on and off with any 3 phase
motor and if it runs backwards swapped any two leg leads.

Since I can't find specific information on exactly what it is I have to
guess that if there are other leads they would be for overheat sensor,
collet closed sensor, etc.

!!!Caution!!! Some high speed spindles caution that you can damage them
by running them backwards. (and of course you can damage some kinds of
pumps if run backwards.)

I'd
be mounting it on the lathe in a milling attachment to do the indexed
milling / drilling on large chucked work that I presently do on smaller pieces in a collet fixture on the mill.

I probably should make/finish a side milling spindle for the bigger
lathe one of these days.. and some indexing discs to go on the outboard
side.




--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 2/3/2025 4:20 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vnrbc1$1f1ur$1@dont-email.me...

On 2/3/2025 5:50 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I was given a "Precise SC 42" CNC spindle by a scrap dealer.

While digging around I found a shop-made Dremel adapter that fits the
tool holder on the AA lathe for grinding, and I'd forgotten modifying it
to also go on the SB, so I don't need to make the 1/8" capacity CNC
spindle work. The Dremel can spot drill indexed holes to locate and
complete on the mill.

The lathe indexing disk is similar to this, bored to fit behind a
thread-on chuck or 5C spindle thread protector. https://www.amazon.com/Lathe-Dividing-Plate-Indexing-Dividend/dp/B0D5NF5T8Y

I'd want to index most on my 14x40 which has a D1-5 Spindle nose. I
can't put anything between that and the adapter plate. Technically I
could put something between an adapter plate and a chuck, but I would
prefer to index at the back of the head where it is completely out of
the way. I need to make a spider for it someday as well. Probably make
both setups at the same time. I'd just CNC the indexing plate on one of
the mills for whatever I needed. I am sure it will be "close enough."
If I need to try to chase decimal plates I might make it on the big
manual knee mill with the DRO instead. I don't know how I would QC it
though. I guess the end part would have to be the QC.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
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On 2/2/2025 8:27 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Who knows Snag.  I might actually have to start looking for a chuck soon
for that arbor I got from you.  I'll mostly run standard 5C collets, but having a chuck may save the day at some point.

Even small ones are expensive if you get quality . I got a screamin'
good deal on that one . The piece of steel I bought for the back plate
cost me more than the chuck .
--
Snag
We live in a time where intelligent people
are being silenced so that
stupid people won't be offended.

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